Painting a barrel

emmasis · March 19, 2009, 05:39 PM

I just got a barrel put on my SAR-* and it is stainless.
Does anyone know what kind of paint to use?
I have painted cars so I am not worried about how, just need to know the paint they use.
Thanks,
Terrance

BTW they wanted to charge me $250.00 to paint it

Dfariswheel · March 19, 2009, 06:20 PM

There are a number of paints made specifically for guns that usually work better than auto paints.

Brownell's sell "Aluma-Hyde II" paint in spray cans that is an air-curing epoxy. This stuff is tough and has a great reputation:
Doesn't require any baking, just apply and allow it to harden.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...UMA-HYDE~%20II

Old Guard Dog · March 19, 2009, 08:00 PM

Above post is good, so is Dura-Coat, which does not need baking. More important is prep. Blasting with carbide is good, and followed with Parkerizing before painting is best, but not necessary.

Check out Dura-Coat for videos. You could use similar techniques with other coatings.

bamafan4life · March 19, 2009, 11:00 PM

omg i didnt know u could buy firearm paint in a spray can like that! it has to be so much easier and probly more durable than cold blue! and its cheaper i usually go through two 3.oz bottles of birchwood casey on 1 long gun. im building a turkish mauser sporter and im so ganna try the semi gloss black on my gun. im in love with you fellow members at the firing line! but theres only one drawback that i can see. will the aluma hide flake off from shooting a highpowerd rifle over and over again (you know how hot that barrel gets!)? i doubt it does because its epoxy and they use freggin epoxy in nucular plants!.

sadsack · March 20, 2009, 02:11 AM

Just be careful not to paint up the parts that need to move. I bought a Rem 700 a while back that had been painted. It took almost two quarts of stripper to get the bolt freed up. Someone had broken the bolt handle off by hammering on it trying to free it up.

Mr Odd Six · March 20, 2009, 02:21 AM

Dura-coat is a royal pain in the obama.

But it is the nicest coating I own.

Dfariswheel · March 20, 2009, 06:47 PM

Most any properly applied, properly dried or cured "paint type" gun finish will not flake off from firing.

Tom2 · March 20, 2009, 06:52 PM

Well he said stainless, so park undercoat is out. Bead blasting/degreasing would surely make any paint stick better to the steel. I am wondering about high temperatures. It is a semi auto, right? Might get alot of rapid fire some time and barrels on a hot day can get pretty hot. Some kind of paint that is hi temp rated might be advisible in that case? Maybe some of the stuff you bake on. That makes it durable, and if it can stand baking, it could stand a hot barrel, I think?

Mac's! · March 21, 2009, 10:14 PM

Use Gunkote! It's not super user freindly but it'll never flake or peel and barrel heat has no effect on it. (Unless it exceeds 800 degrees!!) You can also use the Gunkote Molly finish for internal moving parts including trigger mechanisms and bolt parts. A little bit of use causes it to burnish to a perfect fit and will make it smoother than original. Acetone, cat urine, battery acid, blood, sweat and tears all have no effect on it. (Yes, we get a fair number of handguns in here that had the finish destroyed by cat urine...usually the girlfriends cat) Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com

arjunki · March 21, 2009, 11:50 PM

I really like the Duracoat product. I don't use their templates , I just use natural brush like ferns and such to save a buck. It's tough stuff!

emmasis · March 22, 2009, 09:10 PM

I read up on both of them and they need to be baked, My barrel is on the gun I need something with a fast hardening rate that is durable....anyone?

HELP!

Terrance

Swampghost · March 22, 2009, 09:29 PM

A lot of people, including myself, use Krylon. They make camo paints in spray bombs. I don't know how much heat they will take, not a lot of fire-fights in the woods. For general range and hunting purposes they work fine.

March 19, 2009, 05:39 PM	#1
emmasis Junior Member Join Date: November 3, 2008 Posts: 2	Painting a barrel I just got a barrel put on my SAR-* and it is stainless. Does anyone know what kind of paint to use? I have painted cars so I am not worried about how, just need to know the paint they use. Thanks, Terrance BTW they wanted to charge me $250.00 to paint it

March 20, 2009, 06:52 PM	#8
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	Well he said stainless, so park undercoat is out. Bead blasting/degreasing would surely make any paint stick better to the steel. I am wondering about high temperatures. It is a semi auto, right? Might get alot of rapid fire some time and barrels on a hot day can get pretty hot. Some kind of paint that is hi temp rated might be advisible in that case? Maybe some of the stuff you bake on. That makes it durable, and if it can stand baking, it could stand a hot barrel, I think? __________________ Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!

March 21, 2009, 11:50 PM	#10
arjunki Member Join Date: December 10, 2008 Location: Oregon Posts: 53	I really like the Duracoat product. I don't use their templates , I just use natural brush like ferns and such to save a buck. It's tough stuff! Last edited by arjunki; March 21, 2009 at 11:59 PM.

March 22, 2009, 09:29 PM	#12
Swampghost Senior Member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: Florida, east coast Posts: 2,106	A lot of people, including myself, use Krylon. They make camo paints in spray bombs. I don't know how much heat they will take, not a lot of fire-fights in the woods. For general range and hunting purposes they work fine. __________________ NRA Patron Member

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March 19, 2009, 06:20 PM	#2
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	There are a number of paints made specifically for guns that usually work better than auto paints. Brownell's sell "Aluma-Hyde II" paint in spray cans that is an air-curing epoxy. This stuff is tough and has a great reputation: Doesn't require any baking, just apply and allow it to harden. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...UMA-HYDE~%20II

March 19, 2009, 08:00 PM	#3
Old Guard Dog Senior Member Join Date: December 23, 2008 Location: SE PA Posts: 101	Above post is good, so is Dura-Coat, which does not need baking. More important is prep. Blasting with carbide is good, and followed with Parkerizing before painting is best, but not necessary. Check out Dura-Coat for videos. You could use similar techniques with other coatings.

March 19, 2009, 11:00 PM	#4
bamafan4life Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2009 Posts: 190	omg i didnt know u could buy firearm paint in a spray can like that! it has to be so much easier and probly more durable than cold blue! and its cheaper i usually go through two 3.oz bottles of birchwood casey on 1 long gun. im building a turkish mauser sporter and im so ganna try the semi gloss black on my gun. im in love with you fellow members at the firing line! but theres only one drawback that i can see. will the aluma hide flake off from shooting a highpowerd rifle over and over again (you know how hot that barrel gets!)? i doubt it does because its epoxy and they use freggin epoxy in nucular plants!.

March 20, 2009, 02:11 AM	#5
sadsack Senior Member Join Date: February 4, 2006 Posts: 206	Just be careful not to paint up the parts that need to move. I bought a Rem 700 a while back that had been painted. It took almost two quarts of stripper to get the bolt freed up. Someone had broken the bolt handle off by hammering on it trying to free it up.

March 20, 2009, 02:21 AM	#6
Mr Odd Six Junior member Join Date: March 17, 2009 Location: Washingrad not DC Posts: 133	Dura-coat is a royal pain in the obama. But it is the nicest coating I own.

March 20, 2009, 06:47 PM	#7
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Most any properly applied, properly dried or cured "paint type" gun finish will not flake off from firing.

March 21, 2009, 10:14 PM	#9
Mac's! Senior Member Join Date: August 15, 2001 Posts: 129	Use Gunkote! It's not super user freindly but it'll never flake or peel and barrel heat has no effect on it. (Unless it exceeds 800 degrees!!) You can also use the Gunkote Molly finish for internal moving parts including trigger mechanisms and bolt parts. A little bit of use causes it to burnish to a perfect fit and will make it smoother than original. Acetone, cat urine, battery acid, blood, sweat and tears all have no effect on it. (Yes, we get a fair number of handguns in here that had the finish destroyed by cat urine...usually the girlfriends cat) Keep yer powder dry, Mac. Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All. Mac's Shootin' Irons http://www.shootiniron.com

March 22, 2009, 09:10 PM	#11
emmasis Junior Member Join Date: November 3, 2008 Posts: 2	I read up on both of them and they need to be baked, My barrel is on the gun I need something with a fast hardening rate that is durable....anyone? HELP! Terrance