.44 Mag hottish loads, but no case trimmer. Reason for concern?

[Pond, James Pond]

When I bought all my reloading gear the salesman explained that it was highly unlikely that I'd ever need to trim straight .44 cases, and that the cases themselves should last quite a few reloads provided they are not deformed or overly crimped.

As such I didn't buy one.

As some will know, I have, however, loaded some relatively hot loads. Also cases are hard to come by: I need to buy factory .44 Mag S&B rounds, and shoot those off if I want to replenish my case supply.

So, do you think I really need a trimmer, or should I just occasionally measure them with calipers to be sure?

[Dave P]

I have never measured or trimmed 44 mag (or other straight wall cases).

I get maybe 6-8 reloads, before the neck starts to split, from crimping I think.

Sounds like an honest salesman.

[Rifleman1776]

I rarely had to trim my .44 mag. cases. But that isn't the same as never.
You can answer your own question by measuring your cases.

[Unclenick]

Exactly so. The SAAMI specification is here. The CIP specs are here. 1.265"-1.285" is the SAAMI length range. As long as your cases don't exceed the upper number, you should be fine.

[AlaskaMike]

I had some older Federal .44 mag cases that were excessively long, but other than those I've never had to trim any pistol cartridge brass.

[RalphS]

I've never measured or trimmed my 44 Mag cases.

But if I was in your situation with brass being difficult to find, I would save any brass that splits at the case mouth and trim it down to 44 Spl length and load it as 44 Spl.

I don't discard brass until it cracks. If you are careful to expand the case mouth only enough to start the bullet and don't over crimp, the brass will last for many reloadings.

[Gdawgs]

Like others, I typically don't trim my straight walled cases, with the exception of my full power 460 rounds. Those stretch quite a bit.

If you don't want to spend a lot of money on a trimmer, I'd recommend the Lee Case Length Trimmers. They are cheap and work really well. You have to purchase the cutter and locking stud.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476...vc=sugv1136199


Then whichever calibers you want. Here is the one for 44.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/576...mington-magnum

You just mount the locking stud in a hand drill, insert the shell into that, then use the cutter to trim. No measuring required.

[Mike / Tx]

As mentioned here in the above post, and elsewhere by most folks, most don't bother trimming straight walled revolver cases.

Personally, I do, as a consistent lenght give you a consistent crimp.

I have proved it to myself enough times with all of the revolvers I load for that the crimp DOES matter, and it will effect accuracy. Now if your one who feels the accuracy of a handgun is only good for around 3 to 4" out to 25yds, then I wouldn't sweat it. If your looking for 1" groups to 25 and beyond, then you might consider it.

Also mentioned above was the reference to flaring the mouth to enable seating the bullets as being one of the culprits of split necks. This is also indeed true, as the action of flaring and crimping work hardens the mouth of the case making it brittle resulting in a split. Having the same lenght on your cases also helps ensure that they are all being flared the same. I only use enough flare, that I can feel a minute difference with my thumb nail from the slick side of the case to the ever so slight bell. With a decent light it is easy to see it as well, you only need just enough to allow the bullet to start with out shaving anything off, especially with lead.

[totaldla]

If you use the Lee FCD for your crimping, trim length wont matter.

[mikld]

I have been reloading .44 Magnums since '87, my all time favorite cartridge. I think I may have a Lee trimmer for the .44 somewhere, but I've never used it. I load everything from single round ball loads to 300+ gr. T-Rex killers, and I prefer good stout roll crimps. I quit counting reloads a long time ago and just inspect each case both after it's fired, and before it's reloaded.

So, for me at least, a case trimmer for .44 Magnum is not needed...

[Steve in PA]

I've been reloading my .44mag for close to 20 years. Stout loads of 240-300 grain bullets loaded with H110, never once have I trimmed a piece of brass. I have brass than has 10-15+ reloads through them.

[Nick_C_S]

I've been reloading 44 since 1984. I have yet to trim a case. I bought a case trimmer when I first got started. It wasn't long after, I realized there's no need for it for any of my pistol calibers (38, 357, 44, 45, 9mm). My work bench has had the three mounting holes in it for the trimmer for almost 3 decades now. But the trimmer is in its box, with dust all over it.

[Mike / Tx]

Going back to the OP, a set of calipers will tell you if they are the same lenght or not. If you are concerned with accuracy above all else, then trim them to the same lenght.

Whether or not they are above noted spec numbers or below is not the issue for accuracy, the same length is. It doesn't matter what brand die or what type of crimp you put on them if the length isn't the same neither will the crimp be. If you have more on one case and less on the next you will get different points of impact.

Like I mentioned and you see here, most do not trim, nor feel any need to.

Myself, I take pride in the fact most of my loads will easily shoot 1" or so groups out further than I can hold them with no unusual fliers. This is due to attention to detail. Also like I mentioned above, if your only looking for a decent shooting load you might not even worry about trimming as most loads will shoot ok with out it. If however your looking for the best you can put together then why scrimp on detail.

There again, most do not shoot much if any further than 25yds at targets with handguns, where as I shoot out to 75 and 100yd while hunting. I know what my loads will do and have faith they are the same from one round to the next.