Thoughts on this re-chambering

[velocette]

I acquired a Whitney rolling block rifle, 2nd model chambered in .38 CFC, a round quite similar to a .38 special in dimensions, not necessarily in pressures.
The barrel is badly rusted on the inside & is not salvageable.
I am considering re-lining the barrel and re-chambering it in .25-20 WCF for a 100 yard fun plinker.
I know that the Whitney 2nd model was much stronger than the first model, but whether it is up the the mild pressures of the .25-20 WCF I don't know.
Any opinions?

Roger

[Shooter2675]

I'm not sure ant the pressures, but I normally hesitate from altering antique gun or something of value. However, since you said the barrel is in bad shape, I would say a re chambering isn't the worst thing and would be a nice help with ammo availablity.

John

[BillM]

Sounds like a reasonable conversion. If I were doing it I would lean
toward 32-20 rather than 25-20, mainly because I'm already set up for
32-20.

[hartcreek]

If you cast then you will have no problem but if you dont you will probably never shoot it as Hornady has curtailed their production of seasonal lot bullets indeffinately so nothng for .25 cal.......

[velocette]

Missouri Bullet Company offers 85 grain cast lead lubricated or epoxy coated bullets in .25 caliber, just for the .25 20.

Roger

[mapsjanhere]

Enough meat on the barrel to drill it out to 410 gauge?

[T. O'Heir]

That .38 CFC actually .38 WFC? That's a necked down .44-40 and nothing like .38 Special. Rim is bigger in diameter for one.
http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd3840winchester.jpg
Kind of suspect the rusted out barrel is toast and will need replacing vs relining. A .32 or .25-20 are a pretty mild cartridges, but Buffalo Arms has .38-40 ammo($36 per 50) so just replacing the barrel might be you best bet.
Talk to these guys. http://www.rollingblockparts.com/

[James K]

Some combinations won't work without additional problems. For example, .38-40 has a base diameter of .465" (per COTW) while the .25-20 liner is only .435" OD. So lining a .38-40 to .25-20 will present problems.

Jim

[Jim Watson]

I don't know what .38 CFC stands for, maybe Center Fire Cartridge, but if the OP says it is comparable in size to .38 Special, then it will reline ok.
Flayderman lists the Whitney in .44-40 but just says ".38" for the smaller caliber. Did Norm know the difference? I hope so.

[velocette]

.38 CFC is just that. .38 Center Fire Cartridge. It's case is just slightly shorter than a standard .38 spl, with a true .38" diameter heel based bullet.
A powerhouse it is not, but the rifle is strong enough for mild loads such as the .25 20 @ 24,000 CUP or, the .32 20 @ 14,000 CUP.
I'm trying to decide whether to re barrel or to re line for a fun plinker.

Roger

[Old Stony]

Sounds like a logical conversion to me. I like the 25/20 and 32/20 and load for both, but I would probably opt for the 32/20. Same base sizes, comparable pressures, similar performance. The 32/20 just has more availability of components as there seem to be more of them out there. I've had conversions like this done for me over the years using Redman liners and they have worked good.

[aarondhgraham]

I'm curious as to the complete cost of this conversion,,,
Understand I'm not ragging or teasing here,,,
I'm simply ignorant about the cost.

Could you divulge the price tag for this?

Aarond

.

[velocette]

Aarond;
The cost of a re line or a re barrel is about the same @ $400.00.
Both require cutting a new chamber. Therefore I can choose a low pressure cartridge I want for accuracy.
The existent rifle's bore is rusted beyond salvage. So I have a nice wall hanger for no cost or a neat old rifle that will probably (I hope) be a good fun shooter.

Roger

[aarondhgraham]

I understand the desire to make an old rifle useable in some way.

Many years ago a friend of mine had a trapdoor 45-70 converted to shot 22 LR.

This was in the late 70's and it cost him an arm and a leg,,,
Seriously he said it was more than a months pay.

But the rifle was a family heirloom,,,
His great or great-great grandfather carried it in 1880's US Army.

His choice was like yours,,,
A nice unshootable wall-hanger,,,
Or an heirloom he could shoot a tin can with.

Thanks for the reply.

Aarond

.

[James K]

If the exterior of the barrel is in good shape, it might be best to go with re-lining. That way, you preserve the original exterior and a large part of the collector value while still having a rifle you can shoot. As for cost, I would think re-lining would be less costly as a lot of the work of re-barreling (threading, cutting for the extractor, etc.) would be eliminated or minimized. I would see no reason the Second Model Whitney would not be more than strong enough for .25-20 or .32-20.

Jim

[damienph]

Another vote for a reline. I am in favor of getting it shooting again but if it were mine I would try to keep it as original looking as possible. But what ever you decide, reline or rebarrel, definitely get it shooting again.

[aarondhgraham]

Okay, now here's a business idea,,,

Buy a bunch of mechanically sound old big bore rifles,,,
Preferably something of single-shot design.

Then slick them up cosmetically,,,
Reline the barrel to shoot .22 LR cartridges,,,
Sell each of them for a huge profit as "Historic Rescues".

"Shoot a Piece of History" could be your tag-line.

I would relish a genuine Zulu/Rorke's Drift era Martini-Henry rifle that I could actually plink with,,,
If I were in the right mood (probably tequila based) I might pay a grand for one.

Heck! Just about any reproduction of a Sharps will cost a grand and a half,,,
Even that Mini-Sharps deigned to shoot .22 LR cost 1,200 bucks.

Just a thought,,,

Aarond

.

[velocette]

Re-line or re-barrel, that is the question. Problem is that the existent barrel, corroded badly on the inside has also been subjected to indignities beyond what any good rifle should be subjected to.
The front sight dovetail has been assaulted by a ball peen hammer as has the rear sight when someone in the past forced a later model buckhorn sight in / on it. The action has not been bubba'd and the wood is quite good (for 130 years old) The repair work on the existent barrel would be costly and no matter what, the collectors value of the rifle is long gone, beaten out of it with a hammer.
So I look at a rifle with the goal of making a good plinker with a new barrel (and I'm leaning toward a .32/20 at this time) or spending a bit more more money for a re-line plus the work to repair the damaged barrel exterior.
Interesting note, the rifle actually has a very nice trigger, Clean, crisp, no creep and about 3#.
Ooohhh, if I only owned a shop full of machine tools, I could keep myself happy and busy for a long long time.

Roger

[Mike Irwin]

I'm thinking that a steel liner in both the chamber and barrel will contain the pressure nicely.

BUT...

That leaves the rolling block. The steel in the block (or even ductile iron) and the pivot may not be up to containing the pressures.

Doubtful if it would cause a catastrophic failure, but it could result in the action stretching with headspace issues