February 17, 2012, 10:34 PM | #26 |
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I just place them on a paper towel, mouth down, as shown in my previous post. That dries them overnight, or whenever the towel is dry. I placed a few on a sponge today and they dried even quicker (an hour or so). The sponge (or towel) simply wicks them dry. Before placing them on a towel (or sponge) blow the excess water from the flash hole from the primer pocket side. If the flash hole is plugged with water, the case interior won't dry completely. I should probably write up my entire technique. Not terribly complicated. I just need to do it.
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February 18, 2012, 04:20 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
If they are too dirty to handle, wear gloves, OR, dip in hot water with dishwasher detergent. Then deprime, even if wet, before you do anything else. Then dip them twice more in the suds. If you don't like the oven method, consider using a 250 W heat lamp bulb. Or, if you live in California put them outside in the sun!!!
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February 18, 2012, 08:47 AM | #28 |
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universal deprimer will be on my next order to Midway. The really dirty ones like the ones that have been stomped into the mud will get a quick wash first. up until a couple of months back I was tumbling using a PVC rig on my lathe, but a buddy made me a offer I could not refuse on the lathe. This was the first large batch I have had to do since then. Rifle stuff just gets the neck cleaned with never dull and a wipedown with a paper towel.
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February 18, 2012, 03:08 PM | #29 |
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IMO, you really need to remove the primers early in the process. Leaving them in will hinder drying hugely, as well as keeping toxic residues in place. Get a universal de-capping die from Lee, $10 and does not touch the case. -Marco Califo
Agreed, especially w/ black powder. Primers very hard to remove after washing and drying.
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brass , casings , reloading |
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