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Old March 19, 2008, 11:57 PM   #1
scrat
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original Colt Script Instructions.

DIRECTIONS FOR LOADING COLT’S PISTOLS.
First explode a cap on each nipple to clear them from oil and dust, then draw back the hammer to half-cock, which allows the cylinder to be rotated. A charge of powder is then placed in one of the chambers, keeping the barrel up, and a ball with the pointed end upwards, washcut wadding or patch, is put in the mouth of the chamber, turned under the rammer, and forced down with the lever below the surface of the cylinder, so that it can not binder in rotation. (care should be used when ramming down the ball not to shake out the powder from the chamber thereby reducing the charge). This is repeated until all the chambers are loaded. Percussion-caps are then placed on the nipples on the right of the lock-frame. When by drawing back the hammer to the full-cock, the arm is in condition for a discharge by pulling the trigger; a repetition of the same motion produces the like results with six shots without reloading.
NiB-It will be safe to use all the Powder the chambers will hold, when loading with the flask, leaving room for the Ball weather the Powder is strong or weak. Fine grain Powder is the best. Soft lead must be used for the balls. The cylinder is not to be taken off when loading. The hammer, when at full cock, forms the height by which aim is taken.
To carry the arm safely when loaded, let down the hammer on one of the pins between each nipple, on the end of the cylinder
>The arm should be thoroughly cleaned and oiled after firing, particularly the home pin in which the cylinder turns.
DIRECTIONS FOR LOADING WITH COLTS FOIL CARTRIDGE
Strip the white case off the Cartridge, by holding the bullet end and tearing it down with the black tape. Place the Cartridge in the mouth of the chamber of the cylinder, with the pointed end of the bullet uppermost, one at a time, and turns them under the rammer, forcing them down with the lever below the surface of the cylinder, so they can not hinder the rotation.
To ensure certainty of ignition, it is advisable to puncture the end of the Cartridge so that a small portion of gunpowder may escape into the chamber while loading the pistol.

DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING
Set the lock at half cock, drive out the key that holds the barrel and cylinder to the lock frame, then draw off the barrel and cylinder, by bringing down the lever and forcing the rammer on the portion between the chambers. Take out the nipples. Wash the cylinder and barrel in warm water, dry and oil them thoroughly; oil freely the base pin on which the cylinder revolves.
TO TAKE THE LOCK TO PIECES, CLEAN AND OIL
First-Remove the stock, by turning out bottom and two rear screws that fasten it to guard and lock-frame near hammer
Second-Loosen the screw that fastens mainspring to the trigger-guard, and turn spring from under tumbler of the hammer
Third-Remove the trigger-guard, by turning out the three screws that fasten it to the lock-frame
Fourth-Turn out the screw, and remove the double screw spring that bears upon the trigger and bolt.
Fifth- Turn out the screw pin that hold the trigger and bolt in their place.Sixth- Turn out the remaining screw pin and remove the hammer with hand attached by drawing it downwards out of the lock frame. Clean all the parts and oil them thoroughly.
TO PUT THEM TOGETHER-Replace the hammer with the hand spring attached, then the bolts, then trigger, the screw spring, the trigger guard, the mainspring, and finally the handle: returning each screw to its proper place, the arm is again in for use.
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Old March 19, 2008, 11:58 PM   #2
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Old March 19, 2008, 11:59 PM   #3
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I followed the directions for taking apart. It still is accurate. Very easy to follow.
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Old March 20, 2008, 12:21 PM   #4
berkmberk1
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Zehr Uber-Cool!!!

That's great SCRAT! Is that piece your's?

I get a kick out of the language of the time. Those were such very simple instructions.......but now they sound like a lecture on 19th century mechanical engineering given by an 80 year old professor at Eton!
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Old March 20, 2008, 12:57 PM   #5
sundance44s
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I`ve got an old friend that must have read those loading instructions ...he`s always used a patch under the balls when loading his Walker ..I thought it odd ..but it works for him .
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Old April 8, 2008, 10:01 PM   #6
berkmberk1
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Patching C&B Balls

Anyone try this? I don't see why this wouldn't work on more than one level.

As a barrier to help prevent flashover - it should seal the chamber fairly well.

To help fill the bore if using a smaller than optimal diameter ball - this principle is used in long rifles and pistols. Why not revolvers?

To help prevent leading and other bore fouling - using the same principle as above, it should help wipe away a bit of fouling with each shot. If the patch were treated with some sort of lube, so much the better.

I have a package or two of issue 5.56mm (linen material) cleaning patches around here somewhere. If my memory serves me right they should be an appropriate size to fit under a .44 caliber ball. They might work better trimmed in a circular shape which wouldn't take more than a scissors.

Felt wads are great, but it seems they are just an extension of the original manufacturer's directions for proper loading.
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Old April 9, 2008, 02:52 AM   #7
Hawg
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Quote:
To help fill the bore if using a smaller than optimal diameter ball - this principle is used in long rifles and pistols. Why not revolvers?
Because the patch wouldn't stay on the ball as it entered the bore.
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