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Old October 28, 2011, 07:46 AM   #1
glock22fyi
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Reloading 9mm with 124gr .355

I just started reloading and I was wondering if there would be a problem loading 124gr .355 in 9mm casings? There is only .0007 difference in the two and I found FMJ .355 cheaper than FMJ 9mm. Can anybody help?
Thanks
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Old October 28, 2011, 07:51 AM   #2
Jim243
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There is only .0007 difference in the two and I found FMJ .355 cheaper than FMJ 9mm. Can anybody help?
I do not understand?? 9mm bullets are .355. Am I reading your post wrong?

Jim
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Old October 28, 2011, 08:50 AM   #3
glock22fyi
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I was going off the metric to SAE conversion. 9mm is equal to .3543 and that's .0007 smaller than .355. But I guess that 'in example' that we where talking about a lead round that the mold to produce a 9mm round probably doesn't hold a tolerance in the .0001's. I just wanted to be sure before I did somthing dangerous.
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Old October 28, 2011, 08:59 AM   #4
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You should slug your barrel and determine the groove diameter.

Typically, you want to use lead bullet diameter that's .001" larger than your groove diameter.

So, if your barrel is .355", .356" sized lead bullet will provide proper fit.
If your barrel is .356", then .357" sized lead bullet, and so on.
Some factory barrels are oversized to .357"-.358"

All jacketed bullets come .355" and plated bullets come .355"/.3555"/.356" depending on the manufacturer.
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Old October 28, 2011, 09:00 AM   #5
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The standard bore diameter for 9mm is .355. Don't worry with doing the conversion yourself. Typically the conversion doesn't work out because the "name" of the round may not match up exactly to it's actual measured caliber.

Research the cartridge to determine what the standard bore specs are and go from there.

It gets really confusing when there are several different possible bore diameters based on who manufactured your gun and when (.45 Colt anyone?........451, .452, .454???) .

And as the gentleman above me said, slugging your bore will tell you your bore diameter and therefore give you the best possible accuracy given the gun you're working with. Guns, like all things manufactured, are manufactured to a certain tolerance. That tolerance may be .001 or more off and still be in spec.
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Old October 28, 2011, 09:03 AM   #6
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OK thanks for the help everybody!
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Old October 28, 2011, 10:32 AM   #7
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Actually, got another question. Does the wall thickness of the brass casings vary with differing grains, or are they all the same thickness?
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Old October 28, 2011, 11:54 AM   #8
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Actually, got another question. Does the wall thickness of the brass casings vary with differing grains, or are they all the same thickness?

The wall thickness of the empty brass case? Or the copper jacket thickness of the projectile?

Either way, yes, it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.
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Old October 28, 2011, 01:54 PM   #9
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Does it vary enough that you would have to match up the correct manufacturer and grain to an empty case you pick up at the range? Example can I press a 124 grain bullet into a used casing that had a 115 grain bullet in it brand new from the manufacturer?
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Old October 28, 2011, 03:32 PM   #10
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Yes you can Glock.

Sounds like you need to read a reloading manual or 2.
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Old October 28, 2011, 10:03 PM   #11
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Yes it does. I'd suggest The ABC's of Reloading for starters, then pick up at LEAST two different reloading manuals. The ABC's will answer 99% of the questions you might have. The manuals will tell you what powder charge is recommended for a particular bullet, bullet diameter, OAL, trim-to length, etc. Get the manual sold by the bullet maker you plan to use.
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Old October 28, 2011, 10:11 PM   #12
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Does it vary enough that you would have to match up the correct manufacturer and grain to an empty case you pick up at the range? Example can I press a 124 grain bullet into a used casing that had a 115 grain bullet in it brand new from the manufacturer?
You really are over-ANALysing this - no need to be this OCD - follow a good manual
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Old October 29, 2011, 10:10 PM   #13
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I agree with all above, especially about reading some good basic manuals.

Your last question is somewhat valid, because case "volume" does vary depending on brass thickness and case length. These differences in case volume are insignificant to the new reloader and 99.9% of others. The pressure changes this may cause are not significant to reloaders using data from reputable reloading manuals.
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Old October 30, 2011, 02:15 AM   #14
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Glock, I hope somebody chimes in with what I'm about to yammer on about.

There MIGHT be an issue with reloading for the Glock pistol. Now maybe it's nothing but interweb heresay, but it seems to me there have been more than a few destroyed Glocks that resulted from the use of reloads. I just assumed (I know where that leads) that maybe you just might be reloading for a Glock firearm based on your screen name.

Not knocking Glocks- they make a dang fine piece of equipment. I've just read enough to wonder about the safety margin of using reloads in em.
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Old October 30, 2011, 10:37 AM   #15
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There are no issues reloading for 9mm Glocks. There were issues for some of the early .40 caliber Glocks because they had poor case head support. Those issues were resolved with the 3rd generation Glock .40 having better case head support.
Those issues never pertained to 9mm Glocks.
Don't let the internet hysteria bother you.

I've loaded many thousands of rounds for several 9mm Glocks without issue. To start, I would recommend a 115 or 124 grain FMJ (.355") and a medium speed powder like HS6 or Universal.

All 9mms are designed to use .355" jacketed bullets. Many 9mm plated bullets are .356" also because they have soft cores and a thin jacket (electro-plated on) and behave more like plain lead bullets.

Don't worry about brass thickness. The sizing die reduces the outer dimensions and the expander/flaring die expands the inside to a uniform diameter regardless of case wall thickness. Just use quality brass.

Last edited by Hammerhead; October 30, 2011 at 10:44 AM.
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Old October 31, 2011, 11:27 AM   #16
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I have heard rumors of problems using lead reloads with the glock rifling, however I'm shooting a Glock 22 with a lone wolf conversion to 9mm so I wasn't worried about it. I just tried my first 50 rounds and the problem I'm having now is that it will somtimes jam trying to load the next round. I was going to try going alittle hotter with the round (since I'm already on the low end) but I'm wondering if it might be my spring seeing as how my gun is very used?
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Old October 31, 2011, 02:48 PM   #17
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Chances are your load is under powered and your slide is not getting a full run at the next cartridge, but replacing the recoil spring every now and then is a good idea.

What load are you using?
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Old November 2, 2011, 04:47 AM   #18
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I'm using 4.4 grains of Unique powder, and 115 gr lead bullets.
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Old November 2, 2011, 08:02 AM   #19
Jim Watson
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It would help to chamber check some of your ammunition.
Take the barrel out of the gun and see if your reloads drop into the chamber completely and freely. Compare with factory loads.
Lone Wolf chambers run undersize and you may have to send the barrel back with some sample cartridges so they can ream the chamber to suit. This is a known characteristic of that brand.
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Old November 2, 2011, 11:00 AM   #20
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Seems I remember reading that Glock does not recommend use of lead bullets in their polygonal rifling. (In fact, most firearm makers state “do not use reloaded” rounds.) Make sure you don’t develop issues with leading.

Don’t know your OAL or your reload data source, but for 115 grain FMJ the online Alliant Guide shows maximum of 6. 3 grains of Unique and Speer shows a starting load of 5.6 with a maximum of 6.3. These loads would need to be adjusted down for a lead bullet. For a 120 grain lead bullet, Lyman gives a starting load of 4.0 and maximum of 5.0 of Unique. Your 4.4 is midrange of the Lyman recommendation for a 120 grain lead bullet. Check your reloading manuals. You may have some wiggle room.
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Old November 2, 2011, 12:31 PM   #21
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Glock, I hope somebody chimes in with what I'm about to yammer on about.

There MIGHT be an issue with reloading for the Glock pistol. Now maybe it's nothing but interweb heresay, but it seems to me there have been more than a few destroyed Glocks that resulted from the use of reloads. I just assumed (I know where that leads) that maybe you just might be reloading for a Glock firearm based on your screen name.

Not knocking Glocks- they make a dang fine piece of equipment. I've just read enough to wonder about the safety margin of using reloads in em.

I have 2 Glocks - both have been fed a steady diet of handloads, or I couldn't afford to shoot them for a number of years.

ALL makers say never use reloads - that's a lawyer talking to you, because there are a group of folks who will hot-rod load every time until their gun fails and then go "huh?"

Follow the recipes and things work out just fine
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Old November 2, 2011, 02:05 PM   #22
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Sounds like you need to read a reloading manual or 2.
Or 3 or 4 books. They have micrometers for measuring case thickness. Here is the link,
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/257...ier-micrometer
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Old November 6, 2011, 08:09 PM   #23
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Well I'ved uped the load, and i'll have to drop some rounds in to check my barrel. Also, I think our shop has one of those mics in the tool crib I'll have to check it out. Thanks for the help guys I'll let you know what I find out!
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