September 9, 2011, 09:46 AM | #1 |
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Noob Lessons Learned
I recently decided to start reloading for my RIA 1911 gov't size pistol, but I'm on a tight budget. I tried to get away with buying the least possible amount of equipment so that I could buy the biggest bulk of consumables. It turns out that this bit me in the butt at every possible turn....
I got the Lee hand press kit, Lee 4 die carbide set for .45acp, 1000 Rainer 230gr leadsafe bullets (.451 diameter), 1lb of Bullseye powder and 1000 Federal large pistol primers. I collected 50 pcs of brass from my last trip to the range. I figure I will buy a box or 2 of factory ammo every few months to replace my brass as it wears out. I'll be using some sort of color code system with sharpie markers to track how many times I've used brass. The Lee die set I bought came with a powder dipper so I thought I wouldn't need a scale. Turns out the dipper I got wasn't good for the Bullseye powder that I bought, I need the .5cc and I received the .7cc. I also didn't buy a scale thinking the dipper would be accurate enough. But now I've read enough to realize this was a stupid decision and I should always check the dipper amounts several times every time I'm loading. So I had to get permission from the Department of Treasury (aka the wife) for additional spending and I'm waiting on another delivery from MidwayUSA for the rest of the stuff I should have bought in the first place. This second order was for the full set of Lee dippers, a magnetic balance scale and a digital caliper. I will be getting at least one manual and I will read it, I've read a bunch of suggestions for the ABC's of Reloading. I may be getting a case trimmer if/when the brass I'm reusing seems to be getting too long before it shows wear in other areas but I've read that this doesn't happen as often with no-neck pistol brass. I will also need to get more brass (policing up brass at my local range) and small primers, since half of the brass I have saved is Federal that uses small primers. Last thing will be some sort of bin to put all this stuff in and keep under the bed.. Except the powder and primers, I'll keep those separated. So I'm writing this in an attempt to change my ways, I'm usually one to bash my head at a problem until it goes away and not ask for help. I'm asking if I'm missing anything that I'd need to safely reload ammo. And yes, I'll be wearing shooting glasses when I load. |
September 9, 2011, 10:03 AM | #2 |
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This tip may seem obvious but:
always, Always, ALWAYS keep finished rounds/ factory rounds far away from your snap caps/OAL testing rounds. I say this because on my first night of reloading I had a scare. I made a couple of dead rounds( bullet and brass but no powder or primer) to test my OAL. I forgot to leave my defensive rounds out of the mag. I Racked the slide to get the dead round out and noticed my defensive rounds in the mag. My night could have ended badly in many different ways. So, my point is this: VIGILANCE, VIGILANCE, VIGILANCE!!!!! Double check your double checks and always know where your finished rounds are. Good reloading!! Otherwise, an electronic scale may be a good investment but if you got a decent magnetic scale already then you should be good |
September 9, 2011, 10:13 AM | #3 |
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It was a good idea to get some type of scale to back up the measurements with the Lee dippers. Depending on the shape of the powder granules I can get a whole grain off in weight using the dippers no matter how consistant I try to be in my dipping technique.
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September 9, 2011, 10:38 AM | #4 | ||
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There are myriad more lessons, but you have learned quickly. Last edited by mehavey; September 9, 2011 at 11:36 AM. |
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September 9, 2011, 10:45 AM | #5 |
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essentials
Hold off on the case trimmer, invest in a caliper, you'll probably find that straight wall cases really don't get longer (at least at pistol load power levels). Got a great Lee .45 ACP case trimmer I never had to use.
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September 9, 2011, 10:51 AM | #6 |
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Soooo.... reloading demands attention to detail. Did Lee's instructions suggest using that .7cc dipper with Bullseye or was that your idea?
Reason I ask is I've never heard of anyone having any safety problem with a Lee dipper IF it was used as directed. But, if you won't pay attention to the directions that came with your basic kit how will any number of manuals and scales improve things? |
September 9, 2011, 11:10 AM | #7 | ||
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Thanks to all the responses.
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September 9, 2011, 11:48 AM | #8 |
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Looking at the listed 0.7cc volume/weight of all four favorite 45 ACP powders (W231, Bullseye, Universal, Unique), I can't imagine that dipper's use.
Someone else see something I didn't see? |
September 9, 2011, 12:19 PM | #9 |
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If you ever find a piece of .45ACP that is too long, mount it over the fireplace between the Elk and the Marlin.
You'll be lucky to find one that is longer than the trim length even. You definitely need a good dial caliper. -J. |
September 9, 2011, 12:33 PM | #10 |
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Hard to say how Lee decides which dipper to put into a die set. Good idea to get the whole set. You should be able to find at least one, maybe two decent loads for Bullseye with the complete set. If not, then you may need to try another powder, but I think that will not be necessary.
In Lee's reloading manual he states that with dippers you need to find the right powder to use with a specific dipper to give you the best load for your cartridge. So it may be more difficult to use one powder for different cartridges. Think in terms of powder type + dipper volume combination rather than strictly powder volume as the variale to experiment with. No need for case trimmer for straight wall handgun cartridges. I reloaded many thousands of rounds of various cartridges and never needed to trim pistol cases. I have heard that pistol cases actually get shorter rather than longer as in rifle bottle neck case. I have not measured to verify that. Calipers are a must. If you don't have one already then a reloading lock is handy to hold the cases between steps. When I use a loading lock I always alternate the orientation of the case between steps, especially so that cases are upside down before powder charging and right side up afterward. Then you can further avoid double charging by never charging a case that is upright in the block. Also be sure to visually inspect each case before seating the bullet to ensure it has powder and it is not double charged. I think you are doing great. Nothing wrong with buying a little gear and discovering exactly what more you need and why. Keep up the good work and careful attention to detail.
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September 9, 2011, 01:00 PM | #11 | |
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To the OP: I'll preface by saying that I have been loading .45 ACP for many, many years. Since I carry a .45 ACP as my primary duty gun, and also because I shoot NRA Conventional Pistol (Bullseye), I've loaded .45 by the ton (well, not literally, but you get the picture). Nominal case length for the .45 ACP is .898 inch. Try finding one that long to begin with!!! I have also learned that straight walled cases rarely need trimming, if at all. I have also experienced the marvelously long case life of straight walled pistol cartridges, especially the .45 ACP. Many years ago, I started out with an original "fill" of about 1000 cases. I finally started losing cases with split or cracked case mouths after more than 50 loadings! I have also found that when using the taper crimp, case headstamp is not critical either. (NOTE: This does NOT apply to military surplus brass. ALWAYS reduce the load when you use military brass in the .45 and work up slowly.) Case length is VERY important, though, if you use a roll crimp, because you want the crimp to go into the same place on the bullet shank, each and every time. Don't stop at just one reloading manual--get several; the more the better! I also recommend verifying your loads with the online resources from the powder manufacturers. My favorite loads for the .45 ACP are: 200 grain cast LSWC, sized to .452 and lubed with Javelina Alox 3.8 grains Clays--target wadcutter loads. 4.5 HP38--practice loads with cast bullets in my duty gun. 230 grain FMJ, .451 diameter 6.3 Alliant Power Pistol--duplicates the ballistics of my issued duty load, the 230 grain Speer Gold Dot 6.1 grains Alliant Unique--used as a match load for my hardball gun (Distinguished Pistol competition) I have also used Titegroup with good results. Crimp diameter, measured at the case mouth was set to .470 inches. This is a bit on the open side; some loaders crimp to .469, and I've seen some people crimp as tight as .465. As for primers, I use CCI, Winchester and Wolf primers, all with excellent results. Hope this all helps!
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September 9, 2011, 02:47 PM | #12 |
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Good info so far, especially powderman's post. If I make a suggestion; don't think of the use of a taper crimp die on a 45 ACP case as "crimping", think of it as a "mouth de-flaring operation". Many, many question are posted about problems related to "crimping" semi-auto rounds. All you need to do is straighten out any flare in the case mouth that you put there for bullet seating. I started reloading for my two 45s several years ago and have found no need for any special dies to make my ammo chamber properly.
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September 9, 2011, 02:54 PM | #13 | ||||
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I have several thousand pieces of cleaned/sized/deprimed 45 brass if you want to buy some. Save you from having to buy factory ammo anyway. |
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September 9, 2011, 04:30 PM | #14 | |
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So much of what is written in reloading manuals applies to rifle cases because they are under much more pressure and with long, bottleneck cases they stretch more. Much more important for pistol reloading safety is correct powder and charge weight/volume, and bullet seating depth. No reason I have found for pushing pistol cartridges to pressure limits. If you want more performance get a different pistol and cartridge better suited for that. For target shooting and most anything else a 90-95%% powder load is plenty good.
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September 9, 2011, 04:39 PM | #15 |
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"At no point in my post did I say that I actually charged a case using .7cc of bullseye. Where, in your esteemed opinion, did I fail in my attention to detail?"
Just as a counter matter of fact, note that I didn't actually say you did anything at all. I simply asked the obvious question your post seemed to suggest. Enjoy your reloading career! |
September 9, 2011, 05:19 PM | #16 |
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Great info, thanks to everyone for the help. I'll leave the case trimmer off my shopping list at least until I decide to start reloading .308 for my PTR91... if I can figure out how to keep the brass from flying into the next zip code. I think the next step will be .38 special for the wife's LCR though.
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September 9, 2011, 09:54 PM | #17 | |
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http://www.robertrtg.com/pofport_carry.html It has a rubber edge that the brass hits against instead of the ejection port metal edge. Also curved so brass is much slowed down and falls closer. Does not dent the case so much either. Easy to attach.
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"The ultimate authority ... resides in the people alone. ... The advantage of being armed, which the Americans possess over the people of almost every other nation ... forms a barrier against the enterprises of ambition." - James Madison
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