Neck turning

multistage · December 30, 2007, 11:10 PM

Got a neck turner last week. Am working on a batch of brass that, after all other prepping, has necks that are thicker on one side than the other. So I got a neck turner. I have heard this is a bad idea as my rifles are standard (no wildcats), and I have heard that this is a good idea, as my brass will be more uniform. Any suggestions?

**Unclenick** · December 30, 2007, 11:23 PM

Benchrest chamber necks are narrower than standard, and they have to turn necks so the neck has room to open up around a bullet and let go of it. In a standard chamber it doesn't hurt, but does mean you will work the brass more between firing and resizing, so the need to anneal will increase in frequency — that or you toss them earlier as neck splits will develop sooner.

Nick

SST · January 13, 2008, 04:29 PM

Since most of my rifles are custom with precision cut minimum spec chambers, I do a little neck turning, but only when warranted. If you are not working with a precision cut chamber, neck turn only to knock off the high spots. Do not turn them to perfect concentricity or the neck walls will be too thin. It will be difficult to achieve good neck tension on the bullet, and the case won't last long.

I buy large lots of brass. When I buy new brass for a factory cartridge, I run it through the mill. It is definitely overkill for most people, but I enjoy it. I uniform the primer pockets, ream the flash holes, full length resize, trim them all to a uniform length and deburr. Then I weigh them and sort into groups. All cases within that group should be close to the same, so I start measuring at the expansion ring with a micrometer. If the case is out of round, I cull that case out of the group. If the brass is thicker on one side at the base, it is probably thicker throughout the length of the case, including the neck. I will find a use for those cases, but it won't be for hunting, or competitive shooting. These are usually the cases that could benefit from a little neck turning. On a factory rifle, neck turning won't make a lot of difference if the chamber leaves a lot to be desired. When you do turn necks, just don't overdo it.

multistage · January 17, 2008, 03:21 AM

The rifle in question is a 300 H&H that I had built. My very reputable gunsmith assured me that I had a tight chamber, and my Sterrett agrees. Not a factory rifle.

Martyn4802 · January 17, 2008, 07:03 AM

You know that you'll have to use a bushing die to work the neck after firing, right? Standard dies will not size the neck down far enough to hold the bullet after outside neck turning.

Martyn

December 30, 2007, 11:10 PM	#1
multistage Member Join Date: March 8, 2007 Location: Wyoming Posts: 25	Neck turning Got a neck turner last week. Am working on a batch of brass that, after all other prepping, has necks that are thicker on one side than the other. So I got a neck turner. I have heard this is a bad idea as my rifles are standard (no wildcats), and I have heard that this is a good idea, as my brass will be more uniform. Any suggestions?

December 30, 2007, 11:23 PM	#2
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	Benchrest chamber necks are narrower than standard, and they have to turn necks so the neck has room to open up around a bullet and let go of it. In a standard chamber it doesn't hurt, but does mean you will work the brass more between firing and resizing, so the need to anneal will increase in frequency — that or you toss them earlier as neck splits will develop sooner. Nick __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

January 13, 2008, 04:29 PM	#3
SST Member Join Date: January 13, 2008 Location: Missouri Posts: 37	Since most of my rifles are custom with precision cut minimum spec chambers, I do a little neck turning, but only when warranted. If you are not working with a precision cut chamber, neck turn only to knock off the high spots. Do not turn them to perfect concentricity or the neck walls will be too thin. It will be difficult to achieve good neck tension on the bullet, and the case won't last long. I buy large lots of brass. When I buy new brass for a factory cartridge, I run it through the mill. It is definitely overkill for most people, but I enjoy it. I uniform the primer pockets, ream the flash holes, full length resize, trim them all to a uniform length and deburr. Then I weigh them and sort into groups. All cases within that group should be close to the same, so I start measuring at the expansion ring with a micrometer. If the case is out of round, I cull that case out of the group. If the brass is thicker on one side at the base, it is probably thicker throughout the length of the case, including the neck. I will find a use for those cases, but it won't be for hunting, or competitive shooting. These are usually the cases that could benefit from a little neck turning. On a factory rifle, neck turning won't make a lot of difference if the chamber leaves a lot to be desired. When you do turn necks, just don't overdo it. __________________ Regards, Sam Taylor SST's Rifle Room http://angelfire.com/mo2/rifleroom

January 17, 2008, 07:03 AM	#5
Martyn4802 Senior Member Join Date: June 12, 2007 Location: Grayling, Michigan Posts: 737	You know that you'll have to use a bushing die to work the neck after firing, right? Standard dies will not size the neck down far enough to hold the bullet after outside neck turning. Martyn __________________ US Army Retired NRA Benefactor Life Member JPFO

January 17, 2008, 03:21 AM	#4
multistage Member Join Date: March 8, 2007 Location: Wyoming Posts: 25	The rifle in question is a 300 H&H that I had built. My very reputable gunsmith assured me that I had a tight chamber, and my Sterrett agrees. Not a factory rifle.