Will CLP remove Johnson's paste wax?

fozzy · February 18, 2012, 11:11 AM

I’ve almost completed a rebuild of a Norinco NHM-91.

For the latest step, I paste waxed and buffed everything.

Tiny pieces of cotton and lint from my cheep buffing wheel are stuck everywhere.

Will Pro Shot 1 Step or Break-Free CLP strip off the wax (thereby defeating the purpose of waxing in the first place)?

Thx,

mete · February 18, 2012, 11:42 AM

Anything with a solvent would probably remove wax ! Try a brush like and old toothbrush to remove the lint .

jaguarxk120 · February 18, 2012, 12:19 PM

And use the vacuum cleaner to pick up what you brush away.

Bill DeShivs · February 18, 2012, 12:52 PM

Why use a buffing wheel to wax a gun? Just use a soft cloth.
WD 40 will probably remove the wax. Ammonia will, for sure.

fozzy · February 19, 2012, 11:04 AM

Does this mean I need to rewax after every thorough CLP cleaning?

What happens if I wipe it down with Pledge furniture spray (contains water, wax, and evaporators).

Bill DeShivs · February 19, 2012, 04:34 PM

What's wrong with oil?

fozzy · February 20, 2012, 10:17 AM

If mineral spirits takes off wax, I figured gun oil may.

It took so long to wax every piece (complete disassemble sans pressing barrel off trunnion) I didn’t want to waste my wax job (If CLP will strip off wax).

fozzy · February 20, 2012, 01:43 PM

I just tested both Pro Shot 1 Step and Break-Free CLP.

Both removed some wax.

So, I’m going to strip the wax and oil (because cleaning will eventually remove the wax anyway).

Dang, the wax looked good though.

CowTowner · February 20, 2012, 01:52 PM

Perhaps a high gloss poly would be a better choice?

fozzy · February 22, 2012, 12:08 PM

Just to be clear …

The furniture was stained, multiple layers of poly applied, and then waxed (tired of wet sanding to get every single tiny blemish out of the final poly coat).

All blued metal was also waxed (looked awesome). But both Pro Shot 1 Step and Break-Free CLP removed some wax. So I stripped the wax off all metal and oiled because I didn’t want to rewax the metal after every cleaning (too much work).

NWPilgrim · February 22, 2012, 01:52 PM

I think waxing blued metal is best done before a hunting/outing trip or before long term storage/display. It provides rust protection when you know you will be in rain or humid conditions for multiple days, or when you won't be wiping it down frequently.

If you are just going to the range for the day and will be cleaning it soon after then wiping it down with light oil is best. Especially if you use or clean the firearm often.

fozzy · February 23, 2012, 09:22 AM

NWPilgrim, perfect. That makes sense. Thank you.

drail · February 24, 2012, 02:19 PM

Use CLP. Forget the wax thing. Wax works great for museum exhibition items in a controlled environment. The first time the metal gets hot the wax will evaporate away. What do you think happens to the wax job on your car if it's parked out in the summer sun? If you want to shoot the thing rather than store it in a case CLP will do everything you need.

February 18, 2012, 11:11 AM	#1
fozzy Junior Member Join Date: February 18, 2012 Posts: 8	Will CLP remove Johnson's paste wax? I’ve almost completed a rebuild of a Norinco NHM-91. For the latest step, I paste waxed and buffed everything. Tiny pieces of cotton and lint from my cheep buffing wheel are stuck everywhere. Will Pro Shot 1 Step or Break-Free CLP strip off the wax (thereby defeating the purpose of waxing in the first place)? Thx,

February 18, 2012, 11:42 AM	#2
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	Anything with a solvent would probably remove wax ! Try a brush like and old toothbrush to remove the lint . __________________ And Watson , bring your revolver !

February 18, 2012, 12:52 PM	#4
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,978	Why use a buffing wheel to wax a gun? Just use a soft cloth. WD 40 will probably remove the wax. Ammonia will, for sure. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

February 19, 2012, 04:34 PM	#6
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,978	What's wrong with oil? __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

February 20, 2012, 01:52 PM	#9
CowTowner Senior Member Join Date: October 17, 2007 Location: Cowtown of course! Posts: 1,747	Perhaps a high gloss poly would be a better choice? __________________ NRA Chief Range Safety Officer, Home Firearms Safety, Pistol and Rifle Instructor *“Today, we need a nation of Minutemen, citizens who are not only prepared to take arms, but citizens who regard the preservation of freedom as the basic purpose of their daily life......”* President John F. Kennedy

February 18, 2012, 12:19 PM	#3
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,619	And use the vacuum cleaner to pick up what you brush away.

February 19, 2012, 11:04 AM	#5
fozzy Junior Member Join Date: February 18, 2012 Posts: 8	Does this mean I need to rewax after every thorough CLP cleaning? What happens if I wipe it down with Pledge furniture spray (contains water, wax, and evaporators).

February 20, 2012, 10:17 AM	#7
fozzy Junior Member Join Date: February 18, 2012 Posts: 8	If mineral spirits takes off wax, I figured gun oil may. It took so long to wax every piece (complete disassemble sans pressing barrel off trunnion) I didn’t want to waste my wax job (If CLP will strip off wax).

February 20, 2012, 01:43 PM	#8
fozzy Junior Member Join Date: February 18, 2012 Posts: 8	I just tested both Pro Shot 1 Step and Break-Free CLP. Both removed some wax. So, I’m going to strip the wax and oil (because cleaning will eventually remove the wax anyway). Dang, the wax looked good though.

February 22, 2012, 12:08 PM	#10
fozzy Junior Member Join Date: February 18, 2012 Posts: 8	Just to be clear … The furniture was stained, multiple layers of poly applied, and then waxed (tired of wet sanding to get every single tiny blemish out of the final poly coat). All blued metal was also waxed (looked awesome). But both Pro Shot 1 Step and Break-Free CLP removed some wax. So I stripped the wax off all metal and oiled because I didn’t want to rewax the metal after every cleaning (too much work).

February 22, 2012, 01:52 PM	#11
NWPilgrim Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2008 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,346	I think waxing blued metal is best done before a hunting/outing trip or before long term storage/display. It provides rust protection when you know you will be in rain or humid conditions for multiple days, or when you won't be wiping it down frequently. If you are just going to the range for the day and will be cleaning it soon after then wiping it down with light oil is best. Especially if you use or clean the firearm often. __________________ "The ultimate authority ... resides in the people alone. ... The advantage of being armed, which the Americans possess over the people of almost every other nation ... forms a barrier against the enterprises of ambition." - James Madison

February 23, 2012, 09:22 AM	#12
fozzy Junior Member Join Date: February 18, 2012 Posts: 8	NWPilgrim, perfect. That makes sense. Thank you.

February 24, 2012, 02:19 PM	#13
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	Use CLP. Forget the wax thing. Wax works great for museum exhibition items in a controlled environment. The first time the metal gets hot the wax will evaporate away. What do you think happens to the wax job on your car if it's parked out in the summer sun? If you want to shoot the thing rather than store it in a case CLP will do everything you need.

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