First Reloading Session on Dillon RL550B

ledavatar · August 18, 2006, 12:24 AM

Ok, after finally getting the powders, I started my first reloading session today - with door/window closed to prevent drafts, impact goggles on, earmuffs on, dies calibrated, locked, and powder loaded, I nervously and carefully opened up a box of CCI large pistol primers and pressed them against the primer flipper tray.

After flipping for about 10 seconds, the primers are all set, anvil up. Wait just a flipping minute... the picture shows the shiny side should be up for the primer tube!!! I must have stared at the tray for 5 minutes with random thoughts going through my mind (including "did I buy the right flip tray? Maybe there's 2 kinds for anvil up vs. shiny part up). But ok, finally my years of college training on problem solving prevailed. I put the top on, flipped the tray upside down, and voila! Shiny side up.

After grinning for a good minute, I preceded to load 50 primers in the pick-up tube and carefully dumped them into the primer tube. I pressed the handle down carefully once, then up slowly... and even with my earmuffs I heard some dull clanks in my brass bucket below. Holy crap half my primers have dumped out from the tube!!! For the next half hour I slowly, carefully, and meticulously found and picked up those tiny buggers. They were everywhere, and I knew if I lost one it'd be sucked up in the vaccuum later and that's not good. A few landed in my spent primer box (I conveniently decided to keep the 200 spent primers that I decapped from some casings yesterday), a few landed in my 9mm brass bucket, and the rest all over the bench and Dillon.

By then I was drenched - sweat beads started coming down my forehead into my goggles and all around my ears, but I didn't care. I just couldn't figure the damn thing out! There was only one screw to adjust, and it was adjusted correctly. With only 15 minutes until Dillon tech closes for the day, I placed a call and was told that I did not seat the primer tube correctly, that it should "click into place" and go down about 1/4". Finally that did the trick. I primed 5 cases just to be sure it was working.

Since I got all the dies calibrated days ago while waiting for the powder, I was all set. After seating a primer, I used one case to test out the grains on my RCBS electronic scale. I gotta say, by then I was in no mood for a balance beam. The electronic scale was money well spent. I half expected the entire powder measure to dump its entire contents on the first downstroke. It didn't to my delight, only about 3 times more grains than I wanted. Adjusting was easy w/ the scale - dump test1, zero, dump test2, zero, etc. Finally I got it right, tested it 3x to ensure consistent charges, and then I put in a second case into the first station, downstroke, and...clink, something fell into my spent primer box. Crap. I just decapped a live primer. Remember those 5 cases I primed earlier? I didn't. Well, at least there wasn't a detonation.

All growing pains, I'm sure, but after I got the rhythm, i was cranking out those rounds at a decent rate. I was sweaty, I was tired, but nothing rewards like admiring your finished products on your hardwork. I'm happy as a clam.

hps1 · August 19, 2006, 12:24 AM

LOL!

How well I remember starting to load on my 450 Dillon a lot of years ago. That one had a manual powder measure you had to remember to hit the knob and dump a powder charge as well as the manual priming system.

Kinda felt like the guy who stuck the broom ** *** *** and...........well, you know.

Soon it will be so easy, though. Have fun!

Regards,
hm

straightShot · August 19, 2006, 08:40 AM

We've all gone through it. Take your time and relax.

For a new reloader, you might want to use a powder that fills more than half of the case that you're using to eliminate the chance of a double charge, but others here may blast me as being paranoid.

Anyway, good look and have fun. Reloading is a great thing.

ledavatar · August 19, 2006, 10:04 AM

My second reloading session was worse!

1) First the primer slide kept on getting stuck (it doesn't go all the way back to pick up a primer properly). It doesn't go all the way back smoothly along w/ the progression of the down/up stroke but travels in steps, and every other round it would not go all the way back to pick up a primer properly or would not travel back along w/ the operating rod. That was annoying at first because it slowed things down a lot. Then somehow it dumped the entire primer tube again. This time I actually CRUSHED a primer flat on it side. That was a scary sight. I don't know how it did not detonate. Along w/ that I crushed a couple of casings because I did not replace the 2nd station locator button (kept on taking it out due to the primer slide problem).

Anyone have any solutions for the primer slide stuck problem?

2) I loaded one 25 round batch and found out at the end that the powder measure was empty. $#&@! I had to pull 25 rounds w/ the impact puller and that was not fun...

Buckythebrewer · August 19, 2006, 10:56 AM

Ledavator,it usually takes extreme heat or an impact head on to detinate a primer(they design them to be quite safe

).But that being said I would have been scared too.I recommend doing everything in a single stage press kind of way(if possible)..Until you get used to things.I have never used a progressive,I have always used a single stage press to do all of my operations(im not saying there is anything wrong with progressive presses there is just more that Can go wrong).I would even pick-up a cheap lee challenger press to keep you going until you figure out your dillon.That way you can get used to each operation and understand every step a little clearer(and safer).I also recommend a Lee hand primer tool because you just dump the primers in shake the tray until they are all facing the right way(the easiest + BEST by far and I refuse to do it any other way

).Just keep using those safety glasses and don't worry too much just MAKE SURE YOUR POWDER CHARGES ARE BELOW MAX.

and try and use a powder(look in the reloading manuals) that fills your case like StraightShot said(within safe pressures)until you get used to reloading so you reduce the chance of a (very,VERY! DANGEROUS!!)double charge.good luck

Throckmorton · August 19, 2006, 01:07 PM

Mine has fits of stickiness,but if your machine is new I"m surprised it's doing it.
I plish mine with steel wool,and the area it slides on,and then put some motor mica on it,or some folks 'lube' it with a grapiihite carpenters pencil.It does ger reaaaaallll annoying when it sticks.Silly me i've never called Di9llon for the cure.

I'd suggest you use the press as a single stage for a few dozen rounds..or more...just to get the feel of things.
Get some case lube and lightly lube the rim of every tenth case and you'll be surpriesd at the difference.

Above all,if you THINK you've messed up,PULL 'EM AND START OVER!! Your gun and body parts arent' worth the time saved 'cutting corners.

G56 · August 19, 2006, 02:08 PM

Dillon has a saying: "Don't suffer in silence!", they mean that but what do you do during the off hours?

Simple, use their online help system, most of the questions you have aren't really exclusive to you, they have been asked before, and their online help system usually has the answers you need.

http://www.dillonhelp.com/

clayking · August 20, 2006, 09:57 PM

Great read ledavatar..........luckily my first session was ok......except for a few less than fully seated primers. If I recall, I got out a pair of pliers and squeezed them back in.......I was thinking, "should I be doing this".....but charged ahead anyway......only to realize after I did about 10 rounds that I had taken off my safety glasses......................ck

ledavatar · August 20, 2006, 10:52 PM

Today I shot my first .45 ACP reloads on my Kimber Eclipse Custom II and I survived! There was one jam and one case which would not chamber because the case lip got peeled back a bit on the feed ramp. I threw out both rounds. Other than that, they were fine!

I had 2 types of bullets - 200gr Laser Cast SWC and 200gr Hornady Total Metal Jacketed SWC. I'd have to say there was a HUGE difference in smoke between the two. The TMJ bullets produced no lead cloud after each shot, unlike what I was accustomed to when shooting factory (230gr FMJ). I hope my budget can afford me to shoot more of the TMJs from now on.

My loads were Bullseye, at 3.5gr, 4.0gr, and 4.5gr. I did notice that the lower grains did not have enough power for the SWC to cut clean holes. Even the 4.5gr was so-so. Am I just using too weak a load?

My only gripe was that I lost a lot of cases even though I tried to pick them up after every 1 or 2 mags. Argh...

Ares45 · August 21, 2006, 03:32 PM

Sounds vaguely familiar.

Don't worry everything will fall into place quickly as you get more bench time. The good thing is that you’re paying attention and discerning cause and effect. That's how you get the experience to know when things don't "feel" right. Welcome to the crowd. Enjoy

ETA:

Quote:

Anyone have any solutions for the primer slide stuck problem?

Try this. Remove the primer feeding assy and primer bar (2 screws underneath the primer bar). Remove the metal spacer. Clean and dry the bar, spacer, and press. Apply a LIGHT dusting of graphite powder lube where the bar rides back and forth. Reassemble. Then all you have to do is keep it clean. I keep a used toothbrush on the bench to brush out spent primer residue, tumbling media, powder, etc while I'm working. Clean and relube every 500-1000rnds and you'll be GTG.

ledavatar · August 21, 2006, 10:42 PM

Thanks for the primer slide suggestions. I actually went on the dillonhelp.com site and found out about just cleaning it w/ some alcohol. It worked well afterwards, but then after about 150 rounds it started getting stuck again, and I found out the problem - it was the little bits of corn cob media that are trapped in the primer hole and manages to rub onto the plate where the primer slides. Cleaning helps, but it's just a bit annoying.

Loaded 226 rounds of .45 ACP today. No problems/mistakes, though I did notice that using Alliant Unique powder (vs. Alliant Bullseye my earlier reloading sessions), the dillon powder thrower tends to be less accurate (i.e. varying +/- 2 to 3 gr instead of +/- 1 gr). I wonder if it's because unique flakes are larger and may stick together more.

Ares45 · August 22, 2006, 02:14 PM

The powder dispenser meters by volume, not by actual weight. Flake/ball powders will meter more consistently than extruded stick powders because of their shape. I don't load with Alliant powders so I don't know what's what but that may be some of your issue. It also helps if you keep the dispenser full of powder. I don't let mine drop below half full. Another thing that helps is learning to operate the press with a smooth consistent motion. Learn the feel of cranking the handle the same way every time and your charges will meter more consistently.

ETA:

Quote:

varying +/- 2 to 3 gr instead of +/- 1 gr

I hope that's a typO. Should be more like 0.2-0.3gr, not 2 or 3 grains. If your charges are off by more than a few tenths of a grain then you have a serious problem, possibly hazardous to your health.

ledavatar · August 22, 2006, 04:55 PM

ah sorry, yes, i mean 0.2 to 0.3gr

BigJakeJ1s · August 22, 2006, 08:32 PM

I've noticed some of the differences between Dillon and Hornady when it comes to debris handling:

Hornady has a better spent primer (and tumbling media) handling system, safely directing all that stuff down away from the rest of the press.

Dillon has a better system for handling spilled powder, in that their shell plate holds the case up off the baseplate, making spilled powder (usually from misfed primers!) less likely to interfere with other press operations, including primer feed.

Don't you ever wish you could take the best features of all of the different presses and put them all on one???

Spent primer system from Hornady
Raised shellplate from Dillon
Spring-loaded, universal buttons/rollers for case retention (hybrid from both Dillon and Hornady)
Smooth, half-step auto-indexing from Hornady
Auto-eject performance like Dillon
Linear primer shuttle from either Hornady or Dillon 550
Die changing system from either, based on how you like to use it (how 'bout an optional dillon die plate with holes threaded for hornady LNL inserts!)
Powder measure from RCBS or Hornady
Powder measure linkage from Hornady
Low Primer warning system from Dillon or RCBS
Low Powder warning system from Dillon
Roller handle from Dillon
"Ram" from Forster
Price from Lee

Andy

Buckythebrewer · August 23, 2006, 07:36 PM

Ares45,I have found what you say to be true with long extruded powders comparing to flake/ball powder but when I have used small to medium Extruded powders I have found the charges are very consistent to 1/10gr(Lee perfect powder measure)..Maybe Ill have to sit down and try some flake/ball powders again and compare but my experience has been that as long as its small extruded(like 2015br)or medium extruded(like h4895)the consistency is very good..Im not saying what you said is not true but I thought I would mention my experience with smaller extruded powders In my measure

.

GunBomB · August 23, 2006, 08:30 PM

Yeah I had some problems with my 650 xl, but I just pulled the handle and let dillon figure it out. JK! They make the BEST stuff tho! I love their products, it has been the best money I have ever spent on firearms gear.

ledavatar · August 24, 2006, 10:46 PM

I just tried some Accurate #2 (very small ball powder) on 9mm, and compared to Alliant Unique, it is much more accurate charge-to-charge. +/- 0.1 grain usually. Well, I'm not doing something wrong!

alan · August 28, 2006, 10:03 PM

ledavatar :

The 550 is an excellent press, though as with any progressivse unit, while you can load ammunition quickly, you can also get into trouble quickly.

Might I suggest that you read the manual carefully. By the way, while eye protection is always a good idea, ear protectors while reloading, seem just a little much. Enjoy.

August 18, 2006, 12:24 AM	#1
ledavatar Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2006 Posts: 147	First Reloading Session on Dillon RL550B Ok, after finally getting the powders, I started my first reloading session today - with door/window closed to prevent drafts, impact goggles on, earmuffs on, dies calibrated, locked, and powder loaded, I nervously and carefully opened up a box of CCI large pistol primers and pressed them against the primer flipper tray. After flipping for about 10 seconds, the primers are all set, anvil up. Wait just a flipping minute... the picture shows the shiny side should be up for the primer tube!!! I must have stared at the tray for 5 minutes with random thoughts going through my mind (including "did I buy the right flip tray? Maybe there's 2 kinds for anvil up vs. shiny part up). But ok, finally my years of college training on problem solving prevailed. I put the top on, flipped the tray upside down, and voila! Shiny side up. After grinning for a good minute, I preceded to load 50 primers in the pick-up tube and carefully dumped them into the primer tube. I pressed the handle down carefully once, then up slowly... and even with my earmuffs I heard some dull clanks in my brass bucket below. Holy crap half my primers have dumped out from the tube!!! For the next half hour I slowly, carefully, and meticulously found and picked up those tiny buggers. They were everywhere, and I knew if I lost one it'd be sucked up in the vaccuum later and that's not good. A few landed in my spent primer box (I conveniently decided to keep the 200 spent primers that I decapped from some casings yesterday), a few landed in my 9mm brass bucket, and the rest all over the bench and Dillon. By then I was drenched - sweat beads started coming down my forehead into my goggles and all around my ears, but I didn't care. I just couldn't figure the damn thing out! There was only one screw to adjust, and it was adjusted correctly. With only 15 minutes until Dillon tech closes for the day, I placed a call and was told that I did not seat the primer tube correctly, that it should "click into place" and go down about 1/4". Finally that did the trick. I primed 5 cases just to be sure it was working. Since I got all the dies calibrated days ago while waiting for the powder, I was all set. After seating a primer, I used one case to test out the grains on my RCBS electronic scale. I gotta say, by then I was in no mood for a balance beam. The electronic scale was money well spent. I half expected the entire powder measure to dump its entire contents on the first downstroke. It didn't to my delight, only about 3 times more grains than I wanted. Adjusting was easy w/ the scale - dump test1, zero, dump test2, zero, etc. Finally I got it right, tested it 3x to ensure consistent charges, and then I put in a second case into the first station, downstroke, and...clink, something fell into my spent primer box. Crap. I just decapped a live primer. Remember those 5 cases I primed earlier? I didn't. Well, at least there wasn't a detonation. All growing pains, I'm sure, but after I got the rhythm, i was cranking out those rounds at a decent rate. I was sweaty, I was tired, but nothing rewards like admiring your finished products on your hardwork. I'm happy as a clam.

August 19, 2006, 08:40 AM	#3
straightShot Senior Member Join Date: July 2, 2000 Location: MI, USA Posts: 668	We've all gone through it. Take your time and relax. For a new reloader, you might want to use a powder that fills more than half of the case that you're using to eliminate the chance of a double charge, but others here may blast me as being paranoid. Anyway, good look and have fun. Reloading is a great thing. __________________ Take a kid shooting. Last edited by straightShot; August 19, 2006 at 10:58 PM.

August 19, 2006, 10:56 AM	#5
Buckythebrewer Junior member Join Date: April 15, 2006 Location: Jefferson, ME Posts: 700	Ledavator,it usually takes extreme heat or an impact head on to detinate a primer(they design them to be quite safe).But that being said I would have been scared too.I recommend doing everything in a single stage press kind of way(if possible)..Until you get used to things.I have never used a progressive,I have always used a single stage press to do all of my operations(im not saying there is anything wrong with progressive presses there is just more that Can go wrong).I would even pick-up a cheap lee challenger press to keep you going until you figure out your dillon.That way you can get used to each operation and understand every step a little clearer(and safer).I also recommend a Lee hand primer tool because you just dump the primers in shake the tray until they are all facing the right way(the easiest + BEST by far and I refuse to do it any other way ).Just keep using those safety glasses and don't worry too much just MAKE SURE YOUR POWDER CHARGES ARE BELOW MAX.and try and use a powder(look in the reloading manuals) that fills your case like StraightShot said(within safe pressures)until you get used to reloading so you reduce the chance of a (very,VERY! DANGEROUS!!)double charge.good luck

August 19, 2006, 01:07 PM	#6
Throckmorton Senior Member Join Date: May 22, 2004 Location: Washougal,Wa Posts: 126	sticky primer bar Mine has fits of stickiness,but if your machine is new I"m surprised it's doing it. I plish mine with steel wool,and the area it slides on,and then put some motor mica on it,or some folks 'lube' it with a grapiihite carpenters pencil.It does ger reaaaaallll annoying when it sticks.Silly me i've never called Di9llon for the cure. I'd suggest you use the press as a single stage for a few dozen rounds..or more...just to get the feel of things. Get some case lube and lightly lube the rim of every tenth case and you'll be surpriesd at the difference. Above all,if you THINK you've messed up,PULL 'EM AND START OVER!! Your gun and body parts arent' worth the time saved 'cutting corners.

August 19, 2006, 02:08 PM	#7
G56 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 302	Dillon has a saying: "Don't suffer in silence!", they mean that but what do you do during the off hours? Simple, use their online help system, most of the questions you have aren't really exclusive to you, they have been asked before, and their online help system usually has the answers you need. http://www.dillonhelp.com/ __________________ John

August 19, 2006, 12:24 AM	#2
hps1 Senior Member Join Date: May 26, 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 425	LOL! How well I remember starting to load on my 450 Dillon a lot of years ago. That one had a manual powder measure you had to remember to hit the knob and dump a powder charge as well as the manual priming system. Kinda felt like the guy who stuck the broom * *** and...........well, you know. Soon it will be so easy, though. Have fun! Regards, hm

August 19, 2006, 10:04 AM	#4
ledavatar Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2006 Posts: 147	My second reloading session was worse! 1) First the primer slide kept on getting stuck (it doesn't go all the way back to pick up a primer properly). It doesn't go all the way back smoothly along w/ the progression of the down/up stroke but travels in steps, and every other round it would not go all the way back to pick up a primer properly or would not travel back along w/ the operating rod. That was annoying at first because it slowed things down a lot. Then somehow it dumped the entire primer tube again. This time I actually CRUSHED a primer flat on it side. That was a scary sight. I don't know how it did not detonate. Along w/ that I crushed a couple of casings because I did not replace the 2nd station locator button (kept on taking it out due to the primer slide problem). Anyone have any solutions for the primer slide stuck problem? 2) I loaded one 25 round batch and found out at the end that the powder measure was empty. $#&@! I had to pull 25 rounds w/ the impact puller and that was not fun...

August 20, 2006, 09:57 PM	#8
clayking Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2006 Location: Florida Posts: 796	Great read ledavatar..........luckily my first session was ok......except for a few less than fully seated primers. If I recall, I got out a pair of pliers and squeezed them back in.......I was thinking, "should I be doing this".....but charged ahead anyway......only to realize after I did about 10 rounds that I had taken off my safety glasses......................ck __________________ Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

August 20, 2006, 10:52 PM	#9
ledavatar Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2006 Posts: 147	Today I shot my first .45 ACP reloads on my Kimber Eclipse Custom II and I survived! There was one jam and one case which would not chamber because the case lip got peeled back a bit on the feed ramp. I threw out both rounds. Other than that, they were fine! I had 2 types of bullets - 200gr Laser Cast SWC and 200gr Hornady Total Metal Jacketed SWC. I'd have to say there was a HUGE difference in smoke between the two. The TMJ bullets produced no lead cloud after each shot, unlike what I was accustomed to when shooting factory (230gr FMJ). I hope my budget can afford me to shoot more of the TMJs from now on. My loads were Bullseye, at 3.5gr, 4.0gr, and 4.5gr. I did notice that the lower grains did not have enough power for the SWC to cut clean holes. Even the 4.5gr was so-so. Am I just using too weak a load? My only gripe was that I lost a lot of cases even though I tried to pick them up after every 1 or 2 mags. Argh...

August 21, 2006, 10:42 PM	#11
ledavatar Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2006 Posts: 147	Thanks for the primer slide suggestions. I actually went on the dillonhelp.com site and found out about just cleaning it w/ some alcohol. It worked well afterwards, but then after about 150 rounds it started getting stuck again, and I found out the problem - it was the little bits of corn cob media that are trapped in the primer hole and manages to rub onto the plate where the primer slides. Cleaning helps, but it's just a bit annoying. Loaded 226 rounds of .45 ACP today. No problems/mistakes, though I did notice that using Alliant Unique powder (vs. Alliant Bullseye my earlier reloading sessions), the dillon powder thrower tends to be less accurate (i.e. varying +/- 2 to 3 gr instead of +/- 1 gr). I wonder if it's because unique flakes are larger and may stick together more.

August 22, 2006, 04:55 PM	#13
ledavatar Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2006 Posts: 147	ah sorry, yes, i mean 0.2 to 0.3gr

August 22, 2006, 08:32 PM	#14
BigJakeJ1s Senior Member Join Date: August 8, 2005 Location: Arlington TX Posts: 663	I've noticed some of the differences between Dillon and Hornady when it comes to debris handling: Hornady has a better spent primer (and tumbling media) handling system, safely directing all that stuff down away from the rest of the press. Dillon has a better system for handling spilled powder, in that their shell plate holds the case up off the baseplate, making spilled powder (usually from misfed primers!) less likely to interfere with other press operations, including primer feed. Don't you ever wish you could take the best features of all of the different presses and put them all on one??? Spent primer system from Hornady Raised shellplate from Dillon Spring-loaded, universal buttons/rollers for case retention (hybrid from both Dillon and Hornady) Smooth, half-step auto-indexing from Hornady Auto-eject performance like Dillon Linear primer shuttle from either Hornady or Dillon 550 Die changing system from either, based on how you like to use it (how 'bout an optional dillon die plate with holes threaded for hornady LNL inserts!) Powder measure from RCBS or Hornady Powder measure linkage from Hornady Low Primer warning system from Dillon or RCBS Low Powder warning system from Dillon Roller handle from Dillon "Ram" from Forster Price from Lee Andy

August 23, 2006, 07:36 PM	#15
Buckythebrewer Junior member Join Date: April 15, 2006 Location: Jefferson, ME Posts: 700	Ares45,I have found what you say to be true with long extruded powders comparing to flake/ball powder but when I have used small to medium Extruded powders I have found the charges are very consistent to 1/10gr(Lee perfect powder measure)..Maybe Ill have to sit down and try some flake/ball powders again and compare but my experience has been that as long as its small extruded(like 2015br)or medium extruded(like h4895)the consistency is very good..Im not saying what you said is not true but I thought I would mention my experience with smaller extruded powders In my measure.

August 23, 2006, 08:30 PM	#16
GunBomB Junior Member Join Date: August 23, 2006 Location: The Stack 510 Posts: 5	Yeah I had some problems with my 650 xl, but I just pulled the handle and let dillon figure it out. JK! They make the BEST stuff tho! I love their products, it has been the best money I have ever spent on firearms gear.

August 24, 2006, 10:46 PM	#17
ledavatar Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2006 Posts: 147	I just tried some Accurate #2 (very small ball powder) on 9mm, and compared to Alliant Unique, it is much more accurate charge-to-charge. +/- 0.1 grain usually. Well, I'm not doing something wrong!

August 28, 2006, 10:03 PM	#18
alan Senior Member Join Date: June 7, 1999 Posts: 3,847	ledavatar : The 550 is an excellent press, though as with any progressivse unit, while you can load ammunition quickly, you can also get into trouble quickly. Might I suggest that you read the manual carefully. By the way, while eye protection is always a good idea, ear protectors while reloading, seem just a little much. Enjoy.