Painting a Shotgun barrel? How?

[BoneDigger]

I have a Mossberg 500 shotgun in Reeltree. I just ordered a new slug barrel which is parkerized. I know that for $70 or so I could have it dipped, but I'm not really interested in paying another $70. So, I plan to paint it myself. Any tips? Should I use a primer? If so, what kinid? Some have said use a BBQ Grill paint that is for hi-temp. as a primer, other have said it is not necessary.

I was planning to take some rope, tie a knot in the end, and then run a largr washer to the knot. I was then going to run the string through the barrel and let the end of the barrel rest againt the washer on the rope. That should keep any paint from the inside of the barrel. I would then tape the receiver end to keep paint out of that end.

I appreciate any advice on types of paint, etc.!

Todd

[Pointer]

Check out the thread by Impact of Reason called


OK you may think I'm nuts...

It has several good suggestions that cover the range of expense.

[BoneDigger]

Do you have a link to that thread? I searched for it but couldn't find it.

Todd

[swmike]

Brownells sells some paints specifically for this purpose. Some require airbrush and some come in aerosol. Prices are reasonable. Will be doing my Mossberg soon in flat black.

For support, get a cork (the tapered kind used in labs), run a string through the center. Insert in muzzle and support as you described. That will allow the "crown" (although small) to be painted too.

[Dfariswheel]

I've done some refinishing with "Paint type" finishes, and they work extremely well.
Check with Brownell's.
They sell a variety of different coatings, in a good choice of colors, including several that are a very close match to parkerizing.
http://www.brownells.com

Make a wire hanger to handle the barrel with and to hang it while coating, or make up some kind of wooden dowel plugs that will work as handles.
Be SURE to drill a hole through one plug to allow air to expand. If you don't, heat may blow the plug out and allow the finish to be damaged.

If you're using a bake-on finish, empty out your oven and remove the racks if necessary.
Experiment with different methods of leaning or hanging the barrel in the oven so it doesn't touch anything.
You can make wire hangers from coat hangers.

First....GET RID OF THE WIFE OR GIRLFRIEND. Send them shopping.
Women have NO sense of humor about bad smells, ESPECIALLY in the oven.

Basically, remove the barrel, and use steel wool or fine sand cloth to remove any rust.
Use a GOOD solvent like lacquer thinner to degrease.

DO THIS OUTSIDE, away from pilot lights and flames/sparks.
Spend some time at this, using a toothbrush to really scrub the areas you want to paint.

Finish up by flooding the barrel with clean solvent to wash away any remaining dirt, grease, or dirty solvent.

DON'T touch the metal with your fingers. Use the hangers or plug/handles to hold it.

Allow it to air dry in the sun.
Be sure it's totally dry since spray painting will blow any remaining solvent out of cracks and ruin the finish.

Follow the directions on the can of finish.
If the can says to shake...shake the DICKENS out of it.
If it says shake one minute, shake it two.

Spray on as heavy a coat as you can without allowing it to run or sag.
I always held the can back and "fogged" heavy coats on.
This allows the finish to tack up slightly and allows you to apply a heavier coat.

After coating, bake in the oven at the recommended temp.
After baking, open the door and allow the metal to come to room temperature.
Handle the barrel gently, the finish will still be "green" and not fully hardened.

Remove the plugs or whatever you used to hold the barrel and run a patch down the bore soaked with a good lube to prevent rust.

Let the barrel stand at least overnight to fully harden up, or however long the can instructions recommend, then coat with a good lube.

Air out the house before the lady comes home.

[ShottyTim]

wow dfaris that is intensive post, thats really gonna help me, do you think you could walk me through how to also paint my receiver, cause i would like to paint both my barrel and my receiver, thanks.


Appreciate the help

Tim

[Dfariswheel]

The receiver works about the same way, BUT, you have to try to get all springs and plastic out, since they could be damaged by excess heat.

The Mossberg magazine tube can be removed with a strap wrench, but since it makes a really good handle, you may want to leave it in place.
I don't recommend painting the mag tube, since the pump handle will quickly scratch it off.

One method of dealing with heat, is to hold the oven heat down to around 300 to 325, and CHECK IT with a thermometer to make SURE how hot your specific oven is.
Many ovens actual temperatures are off from the dial settings.
Again, follow the directions on the can on heat as much as possible.

After getting everything out of the receiver possible, do the same degreasing, flushing and rinsing with a solvent that will evaporate without leaving any residue, and dry thoroughly.

Make sure to get all oils or lubes off, or there's a risk that some might bleed out of a crack or joint and spoil the finish.

Again, use wire hooks or some type of handles to hold the receiver, and figure out how you're going to position it in your oven before starting.

I recommend doing the barrel and receiver as separate "batches". In other words, do one piece, then do the other later.

I wouldn't worry too much about masking or plugging the barrel or receiver, since if you're careful you can control over spray, and it can easily be removed later, if needed.
Any that gets in the muzzle will last about one shot.

When spraying, again hold the spray a little farther away from the work, and "fog" on as heavy a coat as possible WITHOUT allowing sags or runs.

When spraying, start off the edge of the part, spray across it, and continue shortly past it.
This prevents spatters on the surface, or buildup on the ends.

Try to hold the pieces so you can prevent over-spray from getting inside the barrel or in the receiver.

Whatever over-spray there is, can be removed AFTER baking with small amounts of lacquer thinner and paper towel. (Depending on the finish used)

As for the coating, I recommend the various coatings sold by Brownell's, since they were made for use on guns, and the colors are better, especially the parkerized-look coating.

You can use ordinary hardware store Rust-oleum oil-based paint.

The Flat Black looks good when new, BUT as you handle it, it gets blotchy looking from the flat finish being worn smoother in the areas you handle it.

The Satin Black looks OK, but is a little TOO glossy, so what I used to do was to use Flat Black with just enough Satin Black to "cut" the flat to a slightly less flat finish.
This didn't get the blotchy appearance.

Of course, I was using an airbrush to apply the paint, not a spray can.

[Pointer]

BoneDigger

Check under "The art of the rifle"

Then see the thread; "ok you may think I'm nuts".

Sorry, I'm not very computer literate.


You could also look in all posts entered by "Pointer" because I made a comment there.