Stuck cases in my new revolver

[dsv424]

Last week I purchased my first revolver(Taurus Raging Bull .44 Mag) and went to the range with some factory loads and some reloads I made for it. Well the factory load cases ejected just fine but for some reason a few of my reloads got stuck in the cylinder and were difficult to remove. The reloads were 240 g. Berry plated bullets with 15.7 grains AA7 and OAL of 1.575. I also used a Lee FCD to crimp them. Since this is my first attempt at reloading for a revolver can someone tell what causes the case to sometimes get stuck in the cylinder? It happened about 1 out of every 10 rounds.

[uncyboo]

Was it the same chamber in the cylinder every time?

[dsv424]

Nope, because sometimes it would be more than one stuck case. BTW, what is the best way to remove them because I was using a wooden dowel and just pushing them out with it.

[Unclenick]

Sticky cases are the classic sign of excess pressure in a revolver. It means the chamber stretched beyond the elastic limit of the brass and snapped back around it and trapped the brass that expanded under it. When you work a load up to the point it barely starts to be more difficult to extract, it means you need to back it off at least 5%. Since you didn't work that load up to that point (can't blame you, I see it is listed in the start load range) and it is already sticking harder than just stiff extraction, you should back down at least 10% and work back up carefully in small amounts. Maybe .2 grains.

I don't know why that starting load level is producing excess pressure, but I had the same experience with a .44 Special starting load one time? Some starting loads are maximum in your gun. Just a fact of life. It doesn't appear it should be that high though. In some revolvers lead bullets create higher pressures than jacketed ones, apparently due to forcing cone base upset, but I see Accurate lists 15.8 grains as a lead bullet starting load with No. 7.

Re-reading your first post, I would double-check that your scale is set correctly by using a check weight, or that your measure isn't intermittently throwing high charges? The fact they don't all stick suggests that may be the issue? Try throwing 30 charges and weighing each one as it comes out of the measure. See what the extreme spread (highest to lowest) is and what the average is? (30 is the number of samples it takes to have decent confidence the average is representative; that the bell curve is symmetrical and that your extreme spread is near the infinite worst case.)

[jbrown13]

DSV424, I have experienced a similar problem with Atlanta Arms Factory reloads sold by the range that I shoot at. It was 38 special, but in any event all pieces were loaded to the same specs, and every, and I mean every, Magtech (CBC Headstamp) piece of brass had to be muscled to get it out of my Vaquero cylinder. Every other brand of brass fell out by gravity. I now scrap CBC brass when reloading revolver rounds as it appears to be "sticky". Was the brass by any chance Magtech?

[Mobuck]

I checked your load in two sources and it's is a moderate load in both. Had you cleaned the gun before use? A little dust from sitting on a shelf would cause the situation you mentioned. Were there any other pressure indicators such as flattened/cratered primers? Were the factory and reloads both in similar cases(both brass or nickel)?
Give the gun a good cleaning especially the forward part of the chambers in the cylinder.

[Uncle Buck]

Using a wooden dowel is what I sometimes use. Never had any problems.

I would check and make sure your cylinder was cleaned very well. (Did you fire the factory rounds first, no problems and then an occasional reload will stick?)

My shooting buddy bought a new pistol and was having this problem. We figured the problem was he was just so excited and drove an hour to my house so he could shoot it and never cleaned the gun before we shot.

Also, make sure your ammo is clean. I polish my brass (to a bright shiny mirror finish because it irritates my shooting buddy ) in a tumbler with a little car wax. Is it possible your brass is not getting clean? I do not see how this could present a problem, but I have noticed my shiny brass does not seem to stick like my buddies brass does. (He washes, dries and reloads.)

I have never checked the cases that have stuck, it does not happen often, but in the future I will check them.

[jdscholer]

Another thing ya might check is the extractor star.

On a Smith 686 I bought a while back, I had the same sticky case problem especially with reloads. I found that the extractor actually had a smaller diameter measurement than the chambers, as well as very sharp edges as if it hadn't been finish polished to final tolerances. This also coincides with the area of the case which doesn't get fully re-sized on a reload.

A little careful work with very fine emery cloth and a dowell solved my problem. jd

[dsv424]

Thanks guys for all the advise. I was using mixed brass for the reloads and I do have some CBC cases. Unfortunately I didn't pay attention to the headstamp when I was removing the stuck cases. I did note that the primer looked fine, no cratering signs at all. The gun as I said was brand new. In fact I bought it at the gun show and went straight to the range with it.(Bought the dies and bullets a week before I got the gun) What can I say I was a bit anxious, new toy and all. So I believe the gun was clean and I did inspect the cylinders before I loaded it to be sure. Regarding the measuring of the powder I do check every 5th drop or so and with AA7 it has always metered well in the past so I'm pretty sure the powder drops were consistent.

[Slamfire]

It means the chamber stretched beyond the elastic limit of the brass and snapped back around it and trapped the brass that expanded under it.

Excellent and concise explanation.

Good Poets borrow, Great Poets steal.

[zippy13]

To expand on Mobuck's comment about a clean gun: You didn't mention if it's a new gun or not. With a used .44 rem mag, there's the possibility the previous owner shot some .44 specials and left some lead in the cylinders.

[Magnum Wheel Man]

you could have a couple rough chambers ( not uncommon on less expensive guns ) could have tight throats, I've run into this on several Ruger revolvers... have you slugged your barrel & cylinder ??? what are the diameter of the bullets you're using ???

it could be possible that if you were using a heavy enough crimp, that the pressures could be higher, coupled with brass similar to what was already said about the magtech brass, or a tighter throat, could result in sticky cases...

I'd drop charges 5-10%... after I slugged my barrel & cylinder...

[Unclenick]

Jbrown13's observation is the first I'd heard that about Magtech brass. I would weigh those cases and if they are significantly heavier than others, the case capacity could be enough smaller that it would raise pressure. It's also possible its just softer than normal, which would reduce its elasticity and cause that pressure sign to appear at lower pressure than it does with other brass.

Obviously, you need to segregate the brass and see if there's a problem with that? I would also weigh every charge for the next batch just to be sure it's not an intermittent charge issue? If none of your weighed charges cause the problem, the powder measure is where I'd look. Weighing one in five should catch it once in awhile, but on small enough lots it may randomly happen to miss them. Also, double-check the scale. Cut a piece of wire until it equals the charge weight, and put it on the scale periodically to verify the it reads the same place.

Don't rely on primer appearance as a pressure sign in revolver loads. It's not entirely uncommon to hear of revolvers exceeding normal pressure or even bursting with no primer appearance issue. One reason is pistol primer cup thicknesses vary a good bit.