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February 28, 2014, 01:59 PM | #26 |
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Join Date: February 14, 2014
Location: Northern, KY
Posts: 176
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No!!!!!!
The press is out for delivery. Don't say that!!!!! |
February 28, 2014, 03:01 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: March 2, 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 241
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Has anyone told you about the initiation ceremony? They day you get your first press, you owe everybody in the forum a round of beers!
Enjoy! |
February 28, 2014, 03:08 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: February 14, 2014
Location: Northern, KY
Posts: 176
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Heck, with the amount of advice I've been given already, I'd be happy to meet up with anyone here that lives in Northern Kentucky/Cincinnati area and buy a round
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February 28, 2014, 04:47 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: February 14, 2014
Location: Northern, KY
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The new phone book is here! The new phone book is here! I'm somebody!!!!!!!
(+1 if you get that reference) I mean the press is here! And now the wife wants to go out to dinner cause it is date night. Ah well, maybe she will let me take the Modern Reloading book along? Oh, I got notice the powder shipped today and should be here Tuesday! Looks like this is going to be a fun week coming up |
February 28, 2014, 05:33 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: March 2, 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 241
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Johnson, Mavin R.
Stay away from the cans!! Lucky for Mavin that guy was a crappy shot. No trigger control. |
March 1, 2014, 07:41 PM | #31 |
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Join Date: February 14, 2014
Location: Northern, KY
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Got everything but the powder, so I spent today getting things sorted out and set up.
I ran through some test cycles, and set a bullet a couple of times. I've gotten the OAL to 1.200 on the button, and I tested the crimp with the recommended plunk test and pushing the round into the bench. They still read 1.200 after, so it look like that is working well! I kind of thought that part might be a challenge, but it was pretty easy with the Lee setup instructions. However, I have some bad words for that press mounted primer thing. First off the setup instructions were very poor, so it took quite a while to figure out how the thing is supposed to work. It was then I realized the press setup instructions left out putting in the primer arm as well. Lee's instructions could use some help from a technical write. I don't think I am a fan of that on press primer system. I learned to hold my hand under it pretty quickly when I try to deliver a primer, because it seems to drag about 2 out of 3 back out of the cup. I watched a youtube of a guy using one, and he didn't seem to have any problem at all, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I can see why people like the hand primer better. My powder is due here Tuesday, so not much to do now except to wait for it. |
March 1, 2014, 10:06 PM | #32 |
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Join Date: March 2, 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 241
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Don't give up on the safety prime just yet. Check the alignment of the primer feeder with the arm by looking straight down from above. Chances are it is fine, but if not lossen the bolt and nuge it whichever way it needs to go and re-tighten. The actual feeding motion takes a little practice and feel that will come with a little time. The main thing is to push forward with your finger on the back face till it makes contact then press down. You will develop a feel for it and will know if it did not seat properly in the arm. I remember being a bit frustrated with it at first as well. Now I almost never drop a large primer. For some reason though, I have a little less consistency with the small primers. I would estimate maybe one out of every 25 to 30 small primers don't settle in the primer arm and get drug back out. As I said though you will develop a feel for when this happens and you just cup your hand under the arm and catch it. Another little tip i just picked up a few months ago is to get a large towel and spread it out on the floor right under your press. Not nice and flat, but sort of fluffed around. If a primer drops it will hit the towel and not bounce. It is a little known fact that primers become invisible the second they hit the floor.
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March 2, 2014, 09:57 AM | #33 |
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Join Date: March 2, 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 241
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Two other priming tips i thought of. Keep the priming arm and the channel it slides into clean and lightly lubed. For me CLP works best. Finally, the last two primers in the safety prime will not usually feed for some reason. I just pop them out on the bench and place them in the cup manually. So when you think it is empty, there may actually be one or two left in there.
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March 2, 2014, 03:46 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: February 14, 2014
Location: Northern, KY
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Based on your 1st response I found that, in fact, it was very slightly out of alignment.
I corrected the alignment and loaded the tray with 5 primers and the first 3 loaded flawlessly each time. Which brings up your 2nd comment. Nothing I did under the sun could get those last 2 to feed It seems like the weight of 3 primers is negligible, but I can't imagine what else would cause them to stop feeding at 2. I hope the weather doesn't hold up my stupid expensive powder (coming from MN). |
March 2, 2014, 09:38 PM | #35 |
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Join Date: November 19, 2009
Posts: 3,287
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Welcome!
I don't load 45 ACP but I do reload 9mm, 38/357 and soon to add 380 ACP. In regards to you Lee classic turret press. I have one and I love it. I only load pistol at this time but it does a super job for me. I also use the 4 die Lee sets. For both 38/357 and 9mm - and I would do the same if I was loading 45s - I have all four dies mounted and I seat in one operation and then rotate to the FC (factory crimp die) and crimp in a separate operation. By using the press in single stage adjustment, it will help you to learn the process which is very important. After a while, after you learn the steps, you'll find that it is a very simple switch over to use it as a turret press. I de-prime all of my brass on an old single stage press with a Lee universal de-priming die. I then prime with a Lee hand primer. Once this is done to a batch of cases, I'm ready to start on the turret press - size, expand the mouth and charge through the die, seat and final crimp. I mainly use Bulls Eye. I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure that is mounted directly to the powder through die/expander - I expand the mouth and then drop the powder charge in. The Perfect Powder measure is adjusted for the charges by turning a piece in and out. I adjust it down, drop it in to a case and then dump and weigh on an electronic scale. It only takes a few dumps to get it adjusted to the correct charge and with the BE, it is very consistent. I drop a number of charges after what I think is the final adjustment in to the scale pan and weigh just to make sure. Once set, I then check about every half dozen cartridges to make sure it is still consistent - better safe than sorry! I bought an adapter off of Ebay that adapts the Perfect Powder Measure in to the powder through/expander die and it works slick. As I say though, all I use is BE and different powders and power typs may drop differently out of this measure. You will be able to de-prime and size your casings on the turret during the same operation - I just prefer to de-prime and prime prior to moving on to the turret as that's what works best for me. A lot of good advice has been given - read your manuals and ask questions - that's why this and other reloading focums are around. The only "stupid" question is the one you "don't ask". I really enjoy my Lee equipment - everyone has their own preferences though. I don't use their beam scale as I much prefer an electronic scale to check grain weights. I'm using one that I got from Midway - I think it was a Rock Island - around $35 or so if I remember correctly. I do have a RCBS 5-0-5 beam scale to double check the electronic scale with. Just remember that when in doubt, double check and if you can't figure it out, ask questions to clarify it. Pay particular attention to your powder charges to prevent a "double charge" - i.e. when reloading, concentrate and keep your mind on what you're doing and don't let someone interrupt you. If they do, stop what you're doing - take care of them and when you go back - dump the charge you were working on and start over. You'll do fine - sounds like you have a good handle on things! Good luck and let us know how it's progressing!
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March 4, 2014, 01:28 PM | #36 | |
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Join Date: May 20, 2001
Location: Oshkosh wi.
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Quote:
SR- 4756 powder is being discontinued mid year 2014, along with SR-7625, PB, and SR-4759. Hodgdon made that announcement just recently. Rumor has it that the machines that make it are due for an overhaul, they're selling too little of it. For several reasons. It's a couple of bucks more per pound that most others, it is less popular. So if you get a good load using it, find as much as you can before it disappears. That FA digital calipers chews battery's for breakfast. Make darn sure you manually shut it off each time you use it. Even then, I get maybe a months use from one battery. I grab my dial caliper first,(if I can find it!
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March 4, 2014, 02:08 PM | #37 |
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Join Date: February 14, 2014
Location: Northern, KY
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bedbugbilly
Thank you for the tips on operation. I've been kind of mulling this around. I had the idea before that I could just throw brass into the press and do everything. Then I realize I should clean it, and it doesn't make much sense to clean it with a fired primer... so I have sized, deprimed and washed my current brass. Waiting for my powder to proceed with the some test loads (due today!!) snuffy Thanks a ton for the inside info on the powder!!! And as for batteries on the calipers, I guess that explains why it came with a spare battery I kinda had a suspicion when I saw it packaged with 2 batteries. |
March 5, 2014, 04:16 PM | #38 |
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Join Date: September 9, 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Read the Sticky at the top of the page for suggested equipment.
Hope you got a scale. If not, the electronic ones are much faster and more versatile than the balance beam style. Book? I (like others) suggest the Lyman book and also one from someone else, such as Hornady, Speer, Sierra, etc. Note that the bullet makers only have their bullets in the books, while the Lyman covers many brands. Unless you get into rifle stuff, you can get along without lube (when using the carbide dies), and case trimmer (although they do come in handy for handgun brass as well). |
March 5, 2014, 05:01 PM | #39 | |
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Location: Oshkosh wi.
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Quote:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/785...ProductFinding It comes with everything needed to start loading - minus dies.
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The more people I meet, the more I love my dog They're going to get their butts kicked over there this election. How come people can't spell and use words correctly? |
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March 5, 2014, 05:03 PM | #40 | ||
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Join Date: February 14, 2014
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Quote:
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Thanks! |
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March 5, 2014, 09:51 PM | #41 | |
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March 6, 2014, 12:10 AM | #42 | |
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Quote:
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March 6, 2014, 01:45 AM | #43 |
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Not for pistol, I don't. The only thing that really matters is that the outside of the brass is clean to protect both your sizing die and the chamber. The insides or primer pocket don't really matter.
That said, I do deprime before cleaning rifle brass. It's much lower volume and higher accuracy for me, so I spend more time on brass prep and sizing for rifle. Pistol is simpler in general with far fewer thing that actually make a difference. |
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