How to tap the front sight over

AL45 · July 13, 2014, 10:38 PM

I have a Remington Model 512 .22 LR that is shooting to the right. The front sight is in a dovetail and needs to be tapped over to the right, but it won't budge. What is the best way without damaging something?

Roughedge · July 14, 2014, 06:15 AM

Do you have a brass punch? If not you can use a steel punch if you are careful.

DT Guy · July 14, 2014, 06:43 AM

Hit it with Kroil or similar penetrating oil a day or two before you work on it, and make sure the base or vise you have it resting on is dead solid; folks forget that if the backing isn't solid, lots of the energy you're putting into the punch never makes it to the sight.

Larry

g.willikers · July 14, 2014, 07:59 AM

the sight might have something like lok-tite on it, to prevent unwanted movement.
If the lubricant doesn't help, try gun solvent.
It generally will dissolve most stuff.
If that doesn't help, try carefully applied heat to the sight.
And get a bigger hammer.

**4V50 Gary** · July 14, 2014, 08:44 AM

Brass drift punch or even a piece of brass.

The trouble with using a punch is the lack of precision. Unless you're good, you can't get minute of smidgen with a punch. Sight pushers allow for minor movement of the sight.

For trijicon or other night sights, sight pushers are a must. You don't want to break the glass vial.

F. Guffey · July 14, 2014, 03:48 PM

Quote:

The trouble with using a punch is the lack of precision. Unless you're good, you can't get minute of smidgen with a punch. Sight pushers allow for minor movement of the sight.

In life there are only two tools necessary, that would be WD-40 and duct tape.

Understand there are things that move and shouldn't and things that should move and don't.

On the things that move and shouldn't use duct tape.

On things that should move and don't, use WD-40.

Those that are good with a hammer have one swing, for precession they use different weight hammers. Then there is the incline plain on the sight adjuster.

F. Guffey

kilimanjaro · July 14, 2014, 04:58 PM

You just need to push it a few thousandths, right? While you're letting the oil work, get a board and mount two pieces of aluminium on two sides, ao to fit around the rifle barrel when you place it in the channel thus formed. Drill holes in both flanges to intersect the sight base. Tap threads, and insert a bit of threaded rod in each hole. Shim up the barrel if you need to, then turn both rods to contact with the sight. Then turn one rod into to sight, while relieving the other. This will push the sight over in precise amounts of travel.

Dixie Gunsmithing · July 16, 2014, 12:01 AM

What you need to remember is that some dovetails have a slight taper from right to left, if looking from the rear of the barrel. When driving the sight to the left, it will tighten, but can still be moved a slight amount.

Really, you do not want to move the sight much. What I do, when sighting one, and adjusting a front or rear dovetail sight, is to use a drift punch, preferably one that is wide, and brass. Use a ball pein hammer, around 8 to 12 ounces, and sharply rap the punch, while holding the barrel against a wood benchrest table, or on you leg, so not to scratch the bluing. Afterwards, shoot a couple of rounds to see if that corrected it, and if not give the sight another one to two raps. If you hold the barrel solid in a vise, etc., you will have to use lighter blows from a lighter hammer, as it will cause the sight to move more. If you don't have a brass drift, you can use a steel one, but be sure not to scratch up the barrel, by letting the punch slip.

AL45 · July 16, 2014, 12:02 AM

I soaked it in Rem oil and CLP for 2 days and used a brass hinge pin and hammer to tap it over.

July 13, 2014, 10:38 PM	#1
AL45 Senior Member Join Date: December 12, 2012 Posts: 761	How to tap the front sight over I have a Remington Model 512 .22 LR that is shooting to the right. The front sight is in a dovetail and needs to be tapped over to the right, but it won't budge. What is the best way without damaging something?

July 14, 2014, 06:15 AM	#2
Roughedge Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2011 Location: Monroe,NC Posts: 669	Do you have a brass punch? If not you can use a steel punch if you are careful. __________________ The man that die's with the most stuff win's!

July 14, 2014, 06:43 AM	#3
DT Guy Senior Member Join Date: February 4, 2001 Posts: 959	Hit it with Kroil or similar penetrating oil a day or two before you work on it, and make sure the base or vise you have it resting on is dead solid; folks forget that if the backing isn't solid, lots of the energy you're putting into the punch never makes it to the sight. Larry __________________ He who fights and runs away had better run pretty damn fast. Government, Anarchy and Chaos

July 14, 2014, 07:59 AM	#4
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	the sight might have something like lok-tite on it, to prevent unwanted movement. If the lubricant doesn't help, try gun solvent. It generally will dissolve most stuff. If that doesn't help, try carefully applied heat to the sight. And get a bigger hammer. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

July 14, 2014, 08:44 AM	#5
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,833	Brass drift punch or even a piece of brass. The trouble with using a punch is the lack of precision. Unless you're good, you can't get minute of smidgen with a punch. Sight pushers allow for minor movement of the sight. For trijicon or other night sights, sight pushers are a must. You don't want to break the glass vial. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

July 14, 2014, 04:58 PM	#7
kilimanjaro Senior Member Join Date: November 23, 2009 Posts: 3,963	You just need to push it a few thousandths, right? While you're letting the oil work, get a board and mount two pieces of aluminium on two sides, ao to fit around the rifle barrel when you place it in the channel thus formed. Drill holes in both flanges to intersect the sight base. Tap threads, and insert a bit of threaded rod in each hole. Shim up the barrel if you need to, then turn both rods to contact with the sight. Then turn one rod into to sight, while relieving the other. This will push the sight over in precise amounts of travel.

July 16, 2014, 12:01 AM	#8
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	What you need to remember is that some dovetails have a slight taper from right to left, if looking from the rear of the barrel. When driving the sight to the left, it will tighten, but can still be moved a slight amount. Really, you do not want to move the sight much. What I do, when sighting one, and adjusting a front or rear dovetail sight, is to use a drift punch, preferably one that is wide, and brass. Use a ball pein hammer, around 8 to 12 ounces, and sharply rap the punch, while holding the barrel against a wood benchrest table, or on you leg, so not to scratch the bluing. Afterwards, shoot a couple of rounds to see if that corrected it, and if not give the sight another one to two raps. If you hold the barrel solid in a vise, etc., you will have to use lighter blows from a lighter hammer, as it will cause the sight to move more. If you don't have a brass drift, you can use a steel one, but be sure not to scratch up the barrel, by letting the punch slip.

July 16, 2014, 12:02 AM	#9
AL45 Senior Member Join Date: December 12, 2012 Posts: 761	I soaked it in Rem oil and CLP for 2 days and used a brass hinge pin and hammer to tap it over.