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July 16, 2014, 11:26 AM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: August 16, 2013
Posts: 4
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RA compact 1911 Sear spring and grip safety issues
I bought a Rock Island Armory 1911 compact about 6 months ago and had no issues until recently. The first problem was that after a couple shots the hammer would fail to cock and follow the slide forward. Thankfully this didn't cause a misfire but it did concern me. My initial impression was that the sear or hammer had broken somehow, but after doing a complete disassembly I found no broken or excesively worn parts. I reassembled and performed a successful functions check and found no problems. I took it to the range again and, if I remember correctly, by the second magazine it was having the same problem. I took it apart again and scrutenized each part and found that the sear spring, specifically the portion that contacts the sear, was barely in contact with the sear. Only roughly 1-2mm were actually in contact. I figured that during firing the edge of the spring would slip off and prevent the sear from engaging the hammer, thus causing the fail to cock issue. I ordered a new factory default sear spring and saw that the new spring had much more contact with the sear than the original.
So, thinking I had solved my problem once and for all I reassembled and performed a functions check and found a new problem: the grip safety when engaged (no pressure added) would allow the hammer to drop. The bar that lowers to block the trigger from moving rearward allowed enough rearward movement to fire. I never had an issue with the grip safety before and was wondering if anyone has any advice on how to fix this. |
July 16, 2014, 11:36 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,189
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If you had no issue with it before it probably just needs a little more tension on the spring.
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July 16, 2014, 11:40 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: August 16, 2013
Posts: 4
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That was my first thought as well. I increased the tension the the arm that contacts the grip safety but still had the same issue. With the grip safety activated (meaning not pushed in) I can put enough pressure on the trigger to cause it to fire.
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July 16, 2014, 12:34 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: September 28, 2008
Posts: 10,442
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Since you've discovered two spring related problems, how about getting another new spring, from another source?
Like Brownells, Wolf, 'etc. Have you checked the grip safety itself? Pull it out from the frame from the bottom and hold it there while trying the trigger.
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July 16, 2014, 01:15 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: August 16, 2013
Posts: 4
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I've actually experimented with 3 different springs. One factory spring from brownells, another also from brownells (I'll have to look at the type but its not a standard factory model), and another that I pulled out of my other RIA 1911. All had the same issue with the grip safety. I even went so far as to remove the spring completely and inspected how the safety bar contacted the trigger. From what I can see, no matter how far back the grip safety extends, it still allows enough movement from the trigger to allow the hammer to drop. I'm starting to think that a replacement grip safety might be needed.
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July 16, 2014, 01:37 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: September 28, 2008
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On the other hand, you now have a competition ready shootin' iron.
Some folks disable the grip safety on purpose. Didn't Mr. Browning design the 1911 originally without one?
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Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.” |
July 16, 2014, 08:45 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: March 17, 1999
Posts: 24,383
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Yep, both the grip safety and the manual thumb safety were added to meet the demands of the Army. Browning thought the hammer down or the half cock would be adequate for safety.
Jim |
July 17, 2014, 09:51 AM | #8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: August 16, 2013
Posts: 4
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I completely agree that the grip safety on the 1911 is kinda redundant. I always carry it in condition one (round in the chamber, hammer cocked, thumb safety on). However, my main concern is when a function of a pistol just stops working with no explanation. I'd rather disable a function that I don't need myself than have it break and leave it be.
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July 17, 2014, 10:07 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: February 28, 2011
Posts: 218
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The problem
with investment cast parts which were originally designed as forged and machined or billet machined is that the cast parts are softer and wear faster. The part of the grip safety which contacts the trigger stirrup to prevent it moving has likely worn just enough to let the trigger move enough to drop the hammer.
Seen it on numerous occasions. Best fix is a non cast safety...IF you can find one these days. |
July 17, 2014, 10:07 AM | #10 | |
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Join Date: December 17, 2005
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Quote:
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July 17, 2014, 12:00 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 19, 2002
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 963
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I would pull the trigger out and give it a look..
If you have applied too much pressure in your testing, The yoke is probably bent all out of whack.. Pull your trigger and square everything up or replace it… |
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