Reloading the 22 TCM

[DennRN]

Hi all,
I'm back again with the TCM, this time around I thought I might start a discussion about reloading the 22 TCM since there isn't a thread on here yet regarding reloading it. If you haven't heard of this round check out my range report HERE




Ok so first off let's get the obvious out of the way:
1.) This is a HOT round and not for the beginning reloader, so if you've never reloaded before, I think you should get a couple thousand 45 and 9mm under your belt before you attempt this one.
2.) ALWAYS work up your own load from a safe starting point, do not jump to what "someone else" uses. I'll touch back on this point later in my post.
3.) Double check your equipment and your work before and after getting started, preferably several times during the session as well.
4.) Reload at your own risk and don't trust my data without researching on your own!

Whew, now that that is out of the way lets talk a little about getting setup.
Materials you'll need:
Hornady 3 die set available here:Dies. You'll also need brass, SPP/SRP, and a suitable projectile to send down range. (There have been plenty of people that report success with the 35gr Vmax bullet but since they are more expensive than the Armscor 40gr and are also scarcer, we'll just stick to the stock projectile.) I bought a decent supply of new brass as well as stockpiling my own once fired. In addition to this you can make your own using Keystone Weapons tutorial Here. Lastly you will also need Hodgdon H110 powder or Win 296 Powder, (these are the only powders recommended by the original creator of the 22 TCM)

I'm running a Dillon 650 so I'm using my progressive as a single stage press for the initial sizing. If you have a Dillon 650 read below, if not you can choose to skip the next section.

For initial set up for the 650, you need to use either the 223 shell plate or if you are willing to pay extra attention and willing to cope with the possibility of a stuck case you can use a 9mm plate. Just make sure that you check case alignment prior to each stroke or you WILL smash or jam quite a few cases. Don't say I didn't warn you! You'll be using the Small primer seater and the 9mm (green plastic [small] casefeed arm bushing part #13421. You will also use parts from your 45 conversion kit, use the red Casefeed adapter, part #13143; and the medium case feed body bushing part #13604. This combination (with some tweaking) will allow your press the clearance it needs to automatically feed from the drop tube.

You will also need to install the 9mm or 223 Station 1 locator, part #'s 13546 or 13614.
If you choose to use the casefeeder, you can try using the small rifle plate and improvise or do like I did and shim the small pistol casefeeder plate. Alternately you can skip all of this by hand feeding the cases into station 1.

Follow the instructions for setting up your dies, mine were set up perfect the first time by screwing in the sizing die until it touched the shell plate at full stroke and screwing it in an additional 1/16th and locking it in. YMMV. The Decapping stem should only extend 3/16th past the sizing die per the instructions.

Be generous with the lube prior to sizing and make sure you are sizing your factory new brass too. The new stuff will not chamber unless you size. If you do get a stuck case, here is an easy way to get it out with minimal risk to your dies. Loosen up the decapping plug almost all the way out of the sizing die. Remove the sizing die from your press. Gently tap the case loose by rapping on the decapping stem with a small hammer. Don't worry the decapping stem is made to slide in and out of the plug unless it is cranked into the sizing die. Your case should pop out now, but the stem will still be lodged in it. Reinstall the body of the die into your press without the plug, place the brass (with the stem protruding) into station one, feed it carefully through the die on the upstroke, reinstall the plug and on the downstroke it should pop free.

Run the brass through the Expander Die next, then tumble the lube off of your cases, H110/Win296 has really small and light granules of powder, so it WILL be a PITA to work with unless you tumble off your lube. You will also benefit from using a powder funnel because the neck size is tiny.
At this point I take my scale pan and powder funnel outside and spray them down with brake cleaner and let them air dry to stop powder from sticking during the charging stage, just don't touch the inside of either while you are handling them or you'll have to repeat this step.

Now that you have a supply of sized brass, you need to prime them with either small pistol primers or small rifle primers, it doesn't really matter except for the fact the small rifle primers have a harder cup and will tolerate higher pressure before showing pressure signs. Personally I have used SPP with no issues.

The powder charge will be next, according to the insert that comes with your dies 9.5 gr win296/h110 is the starting load and 10.0 is the max load. Browsing the internet will show that people are finding that 10.0gr might not be sufficient to reliably cycle and some go all the way to 11gr. Personally, I have found to 9.8 gr cycles just fine and 10.2gr is just about right. I haven't had a chance to chrony 10.2 gr yet though so please approach this load with caution. I must have got a particularly fast burning batch compared to those going with 11gr. Please take my advice and trickle charge each dose of powder and don't use a powder thrower unless you plan on using it to get close and weighing each throw.


Bullet seating is a little difficult because of how short and skinny the projectiles are. My trick is to hold the projectile on the case as I raise the ram, once the seating sleeve goes over 50% the projectile I let go and allow the sleeve to fall the rest of the way over it. If you try and start the projectile into the neck of the brass beforehand you will just succeed in ruining a lot of brass. There is just too much neck tension to approximate vertical by hand. Let the floating sleeve do it's intended job and just place the projectile on top of the brass, not in it.

I have found that no crimp is necessary! There is sufficient neck tension to hold the projectile in place with the factory projectiles, using others, YMMV.
I confirmed this by removing the firing pin, and checking OAL before and after cycling completed rounds through the action 2 times and checking OAL. The fact that it has a soft lead point makes the weak link the tip of the projectile, which will mash flat, thereby preserving original seating depth. So my advice is to spare your brass the extra stress of crimping. It will headspace just fine without the crimp.

My overall length is 1.266. It's just a little bit above the factory COAL/OAL, clears the mag with no problems, and does not impinge upon the lands in my barrel. Again, your barrel may vary so please confirm for yourself with a plunk test. If you find any of your brass does not pass the plunk, they probably weren't sized prior to being loaded. If this is the case you can remove the decapping stem from your sizer, lube the completed round (make sure you don't have any primers in the priming station), and size them down to factory spec. (Note, on the 4 rounds I needed to do this to, there was no difference in POI, or pressure signs).


My load has the factory report with a large fireball, flies nice and straight, and is as accurate as I can hold the pistol. From the bench I can put round after round through the same hole and have to count brass to see how many went through.

I apologize for the length of this post but I wanted to be thorough. If you are reloading for 22 TCM I hope you stay safe and hope you have fun. Please share your recipes and experiences with us!

-Dennis

[DennRN]

more pics

[Sevens]

Cool thread, Dennis. I really enjoy the detail in this report.

A couple things pop out to me worth commenting on...

first is the disclaimer: I don't have the .22 TCM, so I'm not currently in this game. I still feel like it's a "maybe" or "one day" project. My reservations have to do with chasing brass, finding component slugs, etc. But I could definitely see myself in the .22TCM handloading ballgame one day.

With that out of the way, I wanna say that H110/W296 has not *EVER* been advertised as properly used with non-magnum primers. It's notoriously hard to ignite and though your experience has shown no issues, I would say that it seems to be clear from my experience that using H110/W296 without a magnum primer is to be using is specifically against it's advertised function.

That's not a "warning", that's simply my take. And the magnum primer demand (along with the very specific warnings to never reduce much from MAX with this powder) are key reasons why I've still not yet ever bought the stuff and worked with it. It's wildly popular because it's a fantastic powder, but it's my choice to work around H110/W296 with other powders because that's just what I like to do.

If/when I began working with this round... I'd probably start with Accurate#9 or even attempt Alliant 2400. Just my opinion.

Where do you get the slugs? Direct from Armscor? The slug, it's availability & cost are key for me in considering this project.

Your report is terrific, I hope this thread gets some traffic.

[DennRN]

Thanks for your input and feedback Sevens.
In answer to your question, the projectiles can be had at $10 per 100 pieces at the same place as the dies and the brass HERE, so you can combine shipping.
I understand your reluctance to chase brass, I'll be moving on to making it myself for this reason as well. Once the financial burdens of the holidays pass, I'll start gearing up to make my own brass from 223 cases. That way I won't feel bad losing them to the firing line.

I didn't know that H110/win296 NEEDED magnum primers although I was aware that it is designed for magnum rounds so that makes a lot of sense.
In inspecting my cases and stripping my TCM after the range I noticed that the powder is VERY clean burning in this application. No flakes of unburned powder, on the gun, me, or the bench, just a light dusting of carbon, especially on the muzzle. The case is nearly completely filled with the prescribed charge weights and the case volume is so small it probably aids in the rapid combustion of the charge. Per Craig's instructions (creator of the load), a small rifle primer is to be used in this round. Of course the big fireball is evidence that there is still powder to be burned as the projectile is exiting the barrel but it seems to either be complete combustion or the blast is carrying it downrange.
Anyway you have given me food for thought. Further experimentation is definitely in order especially since a more completely contained burn would result in a quieter less flashy shot. This might make this range toy more suitable for more applications.

Thanks again for your insight,
-Dennis

[DennRN]

It's been a long while, just thought I'd update with some show and tell.
Shortened up the COL just a tad to 1.255, I had a hang up or two with the longer COL, no longer the case (no pun intended

Sevens, if you're worried about chasing brass, maybe this will work for you.
I built it out of a 50 cal ammo can, legs from an old camera tripod, and stitched together some paint strainers from home depot (I wasn't able to source mosquito netting locally). The netting goes into the can along with my ammo and the legs collapse and pivot to the side. I counter balance the can portion with ammo on the lid and clamp it to the bench. Sets up in a few seconds and works very well. Big thanks to my girlfriend for not only wanting to go to the range with me but also suggesting she take some vids.
Brass catcher

Here is a pic of it under construction


Now to the real reason for this post, my reloads in action!






Here is a link to the slow motion video that these pictures were culled from
TCM Slow motion
I think that the muzzle flash is darn cool looking, almost like a snow flake. Also if you look closely at the first shot exiting the pipe you can trace it's path by the orange streak.
I have to say this project has become one of the most rewarding hobbies I have ever gotten in to.
If anyone is on the fence about picking up this caliber, I have to say it has definitely kept a smile plastered on my face.
-Dennis

[DennRN]

more pics

[ricklaut]

Thanks for this info. I don't have one now, but foresee a .22 TCM in my future - someday - especially now that there is a rifle chambered in this caliber.

I had the same thoughts about the magnum primer. It would be interesting to see testing results with them.

I'm set up to swage my own FMJ projectiles, so I'll have to begin researching jackets (I'm currently just making my 55 gr bullets). .22LR brass makes good 55 gr bullets; I'm thinking .22 Shorts may make a good 35 - 40 grain projectile.

[DennRN]

Ricklaut,
It seems you are already aware of the length limitations of this round, according to the posts I've seen, the 35 grain VMAX (designed for the 22 hornet) at just about 1.270 COL is the longest you can fit into the magazine. Making your own you would be replacing the polymer expansion tip so maybe you'd be able to get a little more weight over the factory 40gr TCM.

I don't know about others but I'm very interested in hearing about your project as it develops. I know I'd pay good money to have some FMJ TCM rounds to throw at some steel, even if that mean investing in production.
Please share any data!

[ricklaut]

Will do - me and my shooting / reloading partner have talked a bit about that cartridge, spoke with RIA at SHOT and see it in our future... funds permitting (I just dropped coin on a new Tavor bullpup).

On the bullet swaging side of it, I have a writeup (focused on 55 gr bullets) here: http://reloadingcreations.com/?page_id=22 The variables are jacket length and core weight (neither of which should pose much of a problem; worst case, jackets would need to be cut down to size). Then load development (and if that follows the same path as my 55 gr bullets, I ended up in the same spot as commercial 55 gr FMJBTs).

Velocity shouldn't be a problem either. I'm pushing mine (made from .22LR) to about 2900 FPS out of a 16" carbine barrel; others (i.e. 22-250) are in the high 3000's.

[DennRN]

Awesomeness...
My girl is going to kill me, I should be on my way to meet her already but couldn't tear my eyes off of all this reloading goodness.
I'm going to have to start pricing it all out.
Thanks for the link, the only other site I have seen offering dies and materials is Corbin

[ricklaut]

The prices I mentioned for the setup I have are higher now - $1465 (but there is a 10% off offer until 2-14-14).

[Handloader109]

I know this is an old post, but I wanted to say thanks for posting all the good info! Has helped me to get started with loading for my two 22tcms. Thanks again

[MisterGary]

Great info here.
I've been loading the 22TCM for about 6 mo. now and I have to say this is one fun round to load and shoot.
My RI seems to like 10.1 gr 296 seated to 1.255
Firearm functions well with really good accuracy.
I'm loading on a Hornandy single stage press with Hornandy die set.
Loading components are factory new brass and 42 gr SP from ASW.
The only issue I have is a lot of the factory brass doesn't want to fit into the shell holder. I'm using the Hornandy #16 shell holder.
Is anyone else experiencing this?
Once fired factory Armscor ammo works fine, just having problems with the factory new brass.

[skizzums]

buy a lee #4 shellholder. 7$

they fit in your hornaday press

[MisterGary]

Will do!
Greatly appreciated.

Does the factory new brass fit the Lee holder better than the Hornandy?

[skizzums]

it likely has looser tolerances, which should make it easier

I can't say 100% because I do npt own a hornaday shell holder, but I use lee for 300BLK and lots of .23 and it always very easy in & out.

[MisterGary]

Hey skizzums,
You were right about the Lee #4 case holder.
I got mine yesterday and the factory new 22 TCM brass fits it much much better than the Hornandy #16. The Hornandy has such tight tolerances that on every other case you would have to twist and turn it to get it in there and then fight to get it back out. The Lee #4 is a tad loose but operable.
Thanks for the info!

[Handloader109]

I've a couple of stairs loaded with H110 from 9.7 to 10.5gr. 2.60 oal for these. New cases sized and Armscor bullets. I've a few 45 gr cast I've loaded to test also, 10 gr for these. Now just have to get to range

[g.willikers]

As a sidenote, last Sunday, in the second hour of the Guntalk.com podcast, Tom interviewed the CEO of Rock Island/Armscor, the developer and manufacturer of the .22TCM.
http://guntalk.libsyn.com/

[Handloader109]

And I'll comment that a 22tcm is being given away by guntalk....go ahead and register for it.

[jkelley209]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxTsXjQj20M

[DennRN]

Glad you guys are having success reloading this round. After all this time, I still feel that the 22TCM is one of my favorites and never quite convince myself to leave it at home on a range day.
I've also been seeing some Win 296/H110 trickle in on gunbot and the local gunshows so sourcing supplies has eased up a little.
On the other side, Ammo Supply Warehouse seems to be out of projectiles and have gone back to the Lee 3 Die set, personally I prefer the extra work that Hornady tends to put into their dies.

Let us know what your load recipes are and how they shoot.

[jkelley209]

!!

[Handloader109]

Got my dies a while back and some H110 powder. I happened to use small pistol primers, and finally got to shoot some the other day. The 10.5 and 10.7gr loads shot without problem. Had a couple of FTE with lower load. And ran across some failure to go into battery also. Think I have sizing adjusted to get them right, I have two guns and it looks like there may be a bupit of difference in chambers. Will have to research more. Loaded a bunch at 10.5 gr 1.55oal, first reload cases and new cases. Shot a few 47 g and 41 gr lead and 41 shot great. Keyhole with the 47gr. Will do so some more of those to keep trying them.

[jkelley209]

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