Anyone ever lube their carbide dies?

[Miata Mike]

I noticed today that my Lee .45acp carbide die set is hanging up funny on my factory crimp die. I didn't notice anything close to that while using the .40 S&W die set tonight.

Are we expected to lube them at all? It would be easy enough with the turrets on my classic cast press.

[medalguy]

Yes it does help to use just a bit of lube when sizing. The carbide just makes the dies more resistant to scratching and wear IMO. But you are saying the FCD is binding, right? Not the sizing die?

[Miata Mike]

That is correct. What kind of lube are we talking? I imagine it needs to be real light.

[Doodlebugger45]

It doesn't hurt to lube a few of the cases. It makes the sizing die work a little easier. But that won't really help the FCD die. I'm not sure what it is either, but for some of the cases that I use the FCD for I notice a distinct hang just as the shell enters the die. I don't know if it's the bullet or perhaps the flare on the case that is having trouble entering the die. It doesn't do it all the time. I first thought it might be some lead buildup from my cast bullets but it's not. I think it has something to do with irregularities on the sides of the bullet.

[FrankenMauser]

The only issues I have encountered with a Lee FCD were caused by cases that were flared too much. (Various case lengths, and I happened to set the expander with a short one. )

As you explained - they drag a bit, going into the die.

I partially mitigated this issue by adjusting my seating die to start removing crimp from the over-flared cases, but not letting it touch the average or short cases. (I only use an FCD to crimp in the 4th station of my progressive. I don't use FCDs for any other reloading processes.)

[dawico]

It could probably use a touch of oil between the two layers of steel that slide together as it crimps. I have a Lee neck sizer that works the same way, and would want to stay up as I pulled the case out.

[hk33ka1]

I've started using a Lee Taper crimp die instead of the FCD in my fourth station for .45 and .357 and I also bought one for 9mm.

[RaySendero]

Yeah, I lube every 2nd or third case in my 30-M1 dies.

[Rifletom]

I've been spraying a few cases with Hornady "One Shot" spray lube[maybe10 in 30-40cases], and helps a LOT.

[Gerry]

It think in the Lee Modern Reloading book, it's mentioned that if you clean your cases too nicely that you should spray a trace amount of furniture polish to make them go through the dies easier even if you use the Lee carbide dies. I don't remember any mention of a specific brand of furniture polish...

[Brian Pfleuger]

I take apart all my dies to clean them before initial use. I use Eezox to clean them and leave a light layer to dry. Eezox is an excellent lube. I've never had any trouble with any of my carbide sizing dies or FCDs. If I wanted to lube handgun cases I wouldn't have bought carbide dies. If I had to lube handgun cases I probably wouldn't reload them. That would take waaaaay too long.

[Hydrostatic Shock]

Some do but I think it's a waste of time with pistol cases. Just make sure your brass is clean and clean your die occasionally if it feels like it is hanging up. I hate lubing cases and making a mess. I say let the carbide do it's job.

The 44mag carbide die does have some resistance but I say forget the lube and man up unless you have some arthritis or other health issues.

[hornetguy]

I never lube cases or the die when using carbide for straight pistol cases.

I would think that lube on the carbide would enable any particles of grit to stick, which would scratch the heck out of the case/s that followed.

I've never had any undue resistance when sizing clean cases in dry carbide dies, no matter who makes 'em. I use RCBS, Lyman, Lee, Pacific.. don't think I've had any carbide Reddings yet.

[Rifleman1776]

Many of the posts state a possible problem without identifying it. It is spelled 'L-E-E'.
Yes, I have a couple times but didn't find any benefit.

[Miata Mike]

The only issues I have encountered with a Lee FCD were caused by cases that were flared too much. (Various case lengths, and I happened to set the expander with a short one. )

As you explained - they drag a bit, going into the die.

I think FrankenMauser may have it figured out. Next time I load .45acp I will flare the mouth a little less. It does not happen on my 9mm and barely on my .40 S&W FCD. I do notice that I don't have to be too exact in my bullet placement in the mouth with the .45acp which should have also been a clue.

As some others have mentioned, I really don't want to start lubing cases as it isn't a problem sizing the cases. I tumble them for about 4 hours before I size and deprime them, so they look better than new.

[chris in va]

Might try taking it apart for a good cleaning too. I was shocked how much junk was in mine.

BTW, it's 'flare'. Flair is what this guy is wearing...



Gotta love the English language! So confusing.

[Miata Mike]

BTW, it's 'flare'. Flair is what this guy is wearing..

My bad Chris.

[jepp2]

For me, it depends on what I use to clean the brass with.

If I tumble with a dash of NuFinish added to the media, they go thru the sizing step very easily. If I just clean the brass using media with a dash of OMS (odorless mineral spirits) I would need to add some lube, or they really want to "grab" in the sizing step.

[wncchester]

" you should spray a trace amount of furniture polish to make them go through the dies easier even if you use the Lee carbide dies."

That's true of all carbides, Lee is just the only maker to mention it.


"I don't remember any mention of a specific brand of furniture polish..."

That's because it's not critical.

[Stargazer]

I use RCBS water soluble lube. Use the pad and turn the case neck on it and maybe put a light coat about 1/16" across right at the top. Makes .357's feel like they are not even there sizing them and helps tremendously on re-sizing 45 Colt cases. After sizing I have two folded damp paper towels on my left thigh and two folded dry ones on the right. Takes just seconds to remove that water soluble lube but it decreases the effort to re-size so much I do this ALL the time now. It has got to make the brass last longer.

[serf 'rett]

De-prime on drill press first and tumble with stainless steel media. Cases are clean, but when I size, I set a tin of Imperial Case Sizing Wax beside the case container. Every third or fourth case, I put a finger in the wax to pick up a small amount of lube which I apply by rolling the pistol case between my fingers while the case is in route from the container to the press for sizing. Stands to reason that a residual remains on the case through the remaining steps and this theory is borne out by the lack of problems later on down the line.
I like the finger rolling application because the wax only goes where I want it to go and the amount is easily applied and minimal. Once one develops the rhythm, the process is fairly fast.
And as stated by others – check your dies to make sure they are clean

[edward5759]

All the time:
I use the Dillon resizing lube, I reload about 30,000 at a time so I pour the lube into a cement mixer with the brass. Let it mix for about 1/2 hour then resize. It is a stand alone operation I will trim to length if I am using carbide rifle dies by using the electric Dillon trimmer.
The rifle you must lube, Handgun it helps a lot.
After having all my brass sized, deprimed, and cut to length then I wash them to remove all lube TSP works well removing all traces of lobe and oil from your hands.
Dry the brass, then prime and load in a separate operation. thus keeping everything as clean as I can for packaging.

Ed

[jhansman]

I give all my handgun brass a water rinse and air dry before resizing/decapping, and clean my dies after that step. Seems to be enough.

[hornetguy]

30 THOUSAND at a time? Holy CRAP! You sell ammo, I suppose?

[CenterFireBrass.com]

I give my brass a quick squirt of Dillon Case Lube