Looking to start reloading the 357SIG round

[rmagill]

I am interesting in starting to reload for 357SIG. The problem I am running into is that I cannot find any books anywhere on reloading this round. Does anyone know if it exists or where I can get my hands on it? If not, what would you recomend I do re: reloading 357SIGs?

[Swamp Yankee]

Both Lyman#48 and Speer #13 have good 357 Sig Data.

For practice ammo I buy the bulk Speer 125 grain FMJFP (#4362). For a really accurate load I like the CP Elite 135 grain bullet that is used in a lot of 38 Super ammo. Don't be afraid to experiment with the heavier 135 to 147 grain bullets. I find they're usually more accurate.
As to powders I've always had such good luck with PowerPistol that I never really fooled around with anything else.
The only real advice interms of loading is to watch the COL carefully. This is a high pressure round and if you shorten it up the pressures increase dramatically.

Take Care

[Peter M. Eick]

Go to Accurate Arms powder site and get AA9. It is my standard because it is nign (hard) to overload the 357sig with AA9. The powder basically supports the bullet. Great combination, love the accuracy. Good luck!

[caz223]

Powder, case, die, and bullet selection are very important to reloading this caliber safely. Do a lot of research before you even consider buying your first component.

[caz223]

I guess I'll elaborate.
The brass that has worked the best for me is starline/winchester.
Be sure to use bullets that have enough bearing surface so that the neck tension is sufficient at the correct OAL.
Flat points and hollow points seem to work the best. Pointed bullets with long ogives do not work unless they're towards the heavy side of the scale. Stay away from bullets with a driving band, they further limit your OAL options.
Ahh, powder. Everyone seems to do things differently, so I'll just list off powders that have worked in the past. Blue dot. Power pistol. Longshot. AA9. And possibly 800x? Longshot has worked well for me in accuracy, metering through a progressive powder measure, and velocity/pressure. Longshot likes light bullets. Blue dot likes heavy bullets. Blue dot likes magnum primers.

I use dillon carbide 357SIG dies. I got mine used for $50, which was a great deal. I still use a very sparingly applied lube, hornady oneShot. I hear that if you got a 5 station press, you can resize with carbide .40 dies, and resize again with steel 357SIG dies. A double charge in 357SIG is highly unlikely. You want a near max charge with a powder that meters well, and supports the bullet at the proper OAL. You DON'T want bullet setback. IF you shoot it in a gun originally chambered for .40 or 357SIG, you are limited to your OAL options, as the magazines are just barely long enough as it is.
If you've converted a G20 to fire 357SIG, you have other options open to you, since the magazine will let you load the rounds a bit longer.
In either case, DO NOT LOAD THE 357SIG ROUND SHORTER THAN THE BOOK OAL. EVER. Bell as little possible.
There are a lot of different ways to crimp to get enough resistance to setback. The common RCBS dies are roll crimp dies. Another popular crimp die is the LEE carbide factory crimp die. Make sure your completed rounds pass the thumb test. Grab a handful of rounds out of your completed bin and walk them over to the bathroom scale.
Bring your calipers and record your OAL before and after.
Put the nose of the bullet against the part of the scale you step on, and your thumb against the primer. Now push.
Push as hard as you can. Does the scale hit 50 before the bullet caves in? 75? 90? 50-75 is considered acceptable for practice ammo. Measure your OAL again....Did the round get shorter? If so, is it still safe to fire?
And so on, and so on.
There's a starter crash course in intro to 357SIG 101.