Primer Pocket Uniforming Tool

browninghunter86 · October 22, 2012, 03:18 PM

What gives best results......hand turning the tool or using it in a drill?

William T. Watts · October 22, 2012, 03:35 PM

Hand drill, faster and more uniform, I just finished uniforming 120 cases. Make it as easy on yourself as you can.. William

Bill Daniel · October 22, 2012, 04:58 PM

I agree with William. When I used my Sinclair tool by hand the result was scaloped. When attached to my drill it was smooth.
All the Best,
Bill Daniel

federali · October 22, 2012, 06:10 PM

I too agree, I use my Sinclair uniformer in a cordless drill and it works great.

old roper · October 22, 2012, 06:37 PM

I use this one

http://www.shooters-supply.com/photo...rUniformer.jpg

I have the large and small one been use them about 30yrs now started when I was shooting BR. I've never used one that works with a drill been happy with mine.

browninghunter86 · October 22, 2012, 07:13 PM

I decided to try the K&M primer pocket correction tool from Brunos that is for use in a drill. http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/pr...tion-tool.html

This should be my last step in my prep for match brass

Thanks for the quick replies and help

NWPilgrim · October 22, 2012, 08:05 PM

I use the K&M uniformers as well. Snap one (LP, LR, SR/P) into my Makita cordless driver and zip away. Beautiful finish. I have the K&M handle for hand turning but it is a real pain. Can't imagine doing more than a couple of cases with a hand uniformer.

hk33ka1 · October 22, 2012, 08:37 PM

I use a Sinclair in a drill press as I do with most of my turning case prep tools.

I had a Lyman and the depth collar came off. I like the one piece design of the Sinclair and K&M. The K&M is made to chuck into a drill.

p loader · October 22, 2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

I decided to try the K&M primer pocket correction tool from Brunos that is for use in a drill. http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/pr...tion-tool.html

This should be my last step in my prep for match brass

Thanks for the quick replies and help

And.........this is why I love this site. Thanks for the tip.

WILL ORDER!

I can now buzz out primer pocket crimps from NATO brass, switch to this cleaner/correction tool and finish the job.

browninghunter86 · October 23, 2012, 10:19 AM

Called to order. Very helpful and lady in customer service was going to ship it in a small padded envelope to save money for me on shipping costs.

IIRC my total was only $22 shipped for the item. I can't wait to try it on some brass and compare it to ones not uniformed. Also am going to do same test with flash hole deburring. And then, test combined procedures to see what the results are.

rg1 · October 23, 2012, 11:07 AM

I prefer a primer pocket uniformer to have adjustable cutters. For small pistol and small rifle, depths are about the same but large pistol primer pockets and large rifle primer pockets the rifle pockets are deeper. I hand turn mine but a cordless drill-driver would be faster and like mentioned easier and more uniform if you are not careful with the feel doing it by hand.

browninghunter86 · October 29, 2012, 02:31 PM

ok if using in the drill how do you know when it has done its job on the primer pocket? How much pressure do you put and how long do you do it?

snuffy · October 29, 2012, 06:31 PM

It should have a shoulder that runs into the base of the case when it's turning into the pocket. If it's adjustable, then you have to have a way to measure how deep it's cutting, and be able to set it exactly. Run the shoulder up tight against the case head, VIOLA!

browninghunter86 · October 29, 2012, 08:03 PM

Thanks Snuffy I get that part but I can push hard on the case or I can barely push case. Not sure how hard I should push case onto the unifomer?

That make sense?

NWPilgrim · October 31, 2012, 03:06 AM

You don't want to press too hard while it is cutting or it forces the cutter to bite too deep and can bind or chatter, or makes holding onto the case difficult as it spins with the cutter. I start with a light press and let the cutter work down through the brass. At the end I press firmly to make sure the base of the cutter head is for sure pressed against the case head (proper depth). I use a fixed depth cutter with no adjustment.

p loader · November 1, 2012, 12:12 AM

Just want to update that I got my K&M tool a few days ago. I put it on the drill (low speed) and the thing is awesome. Using the hand tool I would spin it in there for 3 to 5 seconds per piece and while cleaner than before, it wasn't exactly spotless.

With the K&M tool I place it inside the primer pocket, low speed for a few turns and walla! Nice and shiny inside.

zplinker · November 1, 2012, 09:15 AM

My Whitetail tool uniformers run on a 220 volt machine: my lathe. Can't beat it. No adjustable cutters for me. I'd be changing them all the time, a real pita.

browninghunter86 · November 1, 2012, 09:41 AM

ok I get that but how much pressure are y'all putting on the case when using it on the lathe or drill? Never used one or seen one used so not sure how much pressure I should be applying

Should it make a squeeky noise when it is finished?( I assume this is fron the pocket being perfectly clean and then the cutter making contact)

NWPilgrim · November 1, 2012, 11:32 AM

The cutter should spin freely when it has bottomed out because there is nothing more for it to cut. If it is squeaking then it could be binding on the pocket walls. Basically you cut until there is no more resistance. Some pockets are already deep enough and you won;t have resistance at all. Others just need the corners trimmed out, and some need actual cutting of the pocket bottom to level out to proper depth.

As I posted above, do not press too hard while it is cutting brass or you will force the cutter to bite too deeply and it will spin the case between your fingers instead of cutting. Press gently while it cuts brass. When resistance disappears then I press firmly to make sure it is completely bottomed out against the case head.

browninghunter86 · November 2, 2012, 11:05 AM

wow this is strange. When using in the drill I start and for some reason I can not tell when it is not cutting anymore. I have no feel for this yet. It appears when I do this the corners of the pockets are shiny and a small ammount of brass shavings. So it appears just the corners need uniforming on my brass now

I can tell when the case starts to want to turn in my fingers that is when I stop

temmi · November 2, 2012, 01:11 PM

I use the Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformer

and

No drill

Snake

snuffy · November 2, 2012, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Wow this is strange. When using in the drill I start and for some reason I can not tell when it is not cutting anymore. I have no feel for this yet. It appears when I do this the corners of the pockets are shiny and a small amount of brass shavings. [b]So it appears just the corners need uniforming on my brass now]/b]

Yup, you're learning! A properly set primer pocket uniforming tool will ONLY cut a primer pocket deep enough to allow a primer to be set to the bottom of that pocket, which will result in the top surface of the cup to be .003-.005 BELOW flush. Cutting it deeper than that could result in miss fires.(Firing pin can't reach the primer).

browninghunter86 · November 2, 2012, 08:28 PM

K&M tool is preset and has a stop to prevent it from going too deep. Just I have no way of determining if I am using it correctly since I never seen one or used on before. K&M cust service told me with their tool you can not push too hard on the case because of its design will only cut the that depth regardless

p loader · November 2, 2012, 10:57 PM

Quote:

K&M tool is preset and has a stop to prevent it from going too deep. Just I have no way of determining if I am using it correctly since I never seen one or used on before. K&M cust service told me with their tool you can not push too hard on the case because of its design will only cut the that depth regardless

This is what I have experienced, because the depth is set once it makes the cut it just spins freely. No matter how hard you push it's not going to cut off any more inside the pocket.

browninghunter86 · November 3, 2012, 12:09 AM

I went back and re did the cases and did alot better. I would uniform then dump shavings out. Uniform then dump shavings out. Took about 3-4 of this process to get the pockets looking like the pictures online of uniformed pockets.

First time trying to uniform. Only about 20 seconds

Here is the result of the process I mentioned at top of post

October 22, 2012, 03:18 PM	#1
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	Primer Pocket Uniforming Tool What gives best results......hand turning the tool or using it in a drill?

October 22, 2012, 04:58 PM	#3
Bill Daniel Senior Member Join Date: February 10, 2000 Location: Bowling Green, KY. Posts: 518	Primer Pocket Uniforming Tool I agree with William. When I used my Sinclair tool by hand the result was scaloped. When attached to my drill it was smooth. All the Best, Bill Daniel __________________ Prosecute criminals to the fullest extent of the law and their weapons will become harmless. "Let us speak courteously, deal fairly, and keep ourselves armed and ready." Theodore Roosevelt 1903

October 22, 2012, 06:10 PM	#4
federali Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2011 Location: Nassau County NY Posts: 378	Drill I too agree, I use my Sinclair uniformer in a cordless drill and it works great. __________________ Int'l Assoc. of Law Enforcement Firearms Instructors

October 22, 2012, 06:37 PM	#5
old roper Senior Member Join Date: June 11, 2007 Posts: 2,155	I use this one http://www.shooters-supply.com/photo...rUniformer.jpg I have the large and small one been use them about 30yrs now started when I was shooting BR. I've never used one that works with a drill been happy with mine. __________________ Semper Fi Vietnam 1965 VFW Life member NRA Life Member

October 22, 2012, 08:05 PM	#7
NWPilgrim Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2008 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,346	I use the K&M uniformers as well. Snap one (LP, LR, SR/P) into my Makita cordless driver and zip away. Beautiful finish. I have the K&M handle for hand turning but it is a real pain. Can't imagine doing more than a couple of cases with a hand uniformer. __________________ "The ultimate authority ... resides in the people alone. ... The advantage of being armed, which the Americans possess over the people of almost every other nation ... forms a barrier against the enterprises of ambition." - James Madison

October 22, 2012, 03:35 PM	#2
William T. Watts Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2010 Location: Central Arkansas Posts: 1,074	Hand drill, faster and more uniform, I just finished uniforming 120 cases. Make it as easy on yourself as you can.. William

October 22, 2012, 07:13 PM	#6
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	I decided to try the K&M primer pocket correction tool from Brunos that is for use in a drill. http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/pr...tion-tool.html This should be my last step in my prep for match brass Thanks for the quick replies and help

October 22, 2012, 08:37 PM	#8
hk33ka1 Senior Member Join Date: April 20, 2010 Posts: 275	I use a Sinclair in a drill press as I do with most of my turning case prep tools. I had a Lyman and the depth collar came off. I like the one piece design of the Sinclair and K&M. The K&M is made to chuck into a drill.

October 23, 2012, 10:19 AM	#10
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	Called to order. Very helpful and lady in customer service was going to ship it in a small padded envelope to save money for me on shipping costs. IIRC my total was only $22 shipped for the item. I can't wait to try it on some brass and compare it to ones not uniformed. Also am going to do same test with flash hole deburring. And then, test combined procedures to see what the results are.

October 23, 2012, 11:07 AM	#11
rg1 Senior Member Join Date: November 6, 2001 Posts: 1,125	I prefer a primer pocket uniformer to have adjustable cutters. For small pistol and small rifle, depths are about the same but large pistol primer pockets and large rifle primer pockets the rifle pockets are deeper. I hand turn mine but a cordless drill-driver would be faster and like mentioned easier and more uniform if you are not careful with the feel doing it by hand.

October 29, 2012, 02:31 PM	#12
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	ok if using in the drill how do you know when it has done its job on the primer pocket? How much pressure do you put and how long do you do it?

October 29, 2012, 06:31 PM	#13
snuffy Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2001 Location: Oshkosh wi. Posts: 3,055	It should have a shoulder that runs into the base of the case when it's turning into the pocket. If it's adjustable, then you have to have a way to measure how deep it's cutting, and be able to set it exactly. Run the shoulder up tight against the case head, VIOLA! __________________ The more people I meet, the more I love my dog They're going to get their butts kicked over there this election. How come people can't spell and use words correctly?

October 29, 2012, 08:03 PM	#14
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	Thanks Snuffy I get that part but I can push hard on the case or I can barely push case. Not sure how hard I should push case onto the unifomer? That make sense?

October 31, 2012, 03:06 AM	#15
NWPilgrim Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2008 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,346	You don't want to press too hard while it is cutting or it forces the cutter to bite too deep and can bind or chatter, or makes holding onto the case difficult as it spins with the cutter. I start with a light press and let the cutter work down through the brass. At the end I press firmly to make sure the base of the cutter head is for sure pressed against the case head (proper depth). I use a fixed depth cutter with no adjustment. __________________ "The ultimate authority ... resides in the people alone. ... The advantage of being armed, which the Americans possess over the people of almost every other nation ... forms a barrier against the enterprises of ambition." - James Madison

November 1, 2012, 12:12 AM	#16
p loader Senior Member Join Date: October 1, 2012 Posts: 148	Just want to update that I got my K&M tool a few days ago. I put it on the drill (low speed) and the thing is awesome. Using the hand tool I would spin it in there for 3 to 5 seconds per piece and while cleaner than before, it wasn't exactly spotless. With the K&M tool I place it inside the primer pocket, low speed for a few turns and walla! Nice and shiny inside.

November 1, 2012, 09:15 AM	#17
zplinker Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2011 Location: way out here Posts: 262	My Whitetail tool uniformers run on a 220 volt machine: my lathe. Can't beat it. No adjustable cutters for me. I'd be changing them all the time, a real pita.

November 1, 2012, 09:41 AM	#18
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	ok I get that but how much pressure are y'all putting on the case when using it on the lathe or drill? Never used one or seen one used so not sure how much pressure I should be applying Should it make a squeeky noise when it is finished?( I assume this is fron the pocket being perfectly clean and then the cutter making contact)

November 1, 2012, 11:32 AM	#19
NWPilgrim Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2008 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,346	The cutter should spin freely when it has bottomed out because there is nothing more for it to cut. If it is squeaking then it could be binding on the pocket walls. Basically you cut until there is no more resistance. Some pockets are already deep enough and you won;t have resistance at all. Others just need the corners trimmed out, and some need actual cutting of the pocket bottom to level out to proper depth. As I posted above, do not press too hard while it is cutting brass or you will force the cutter to bite too deeply and it will spin the case between your fingers instead of cutting. Press gently while it cuts brass. When resistance disappears then I press firmly to make sure it is completely bottomed out against the case head. __________________ "The ultimate authority ... resides in the people alone. ... The advantage of being armed, which the Americans possess over the people of almost every other nation ... forms a barrier against the enterprises of ambition." - James Madison

November 2, 2012, 11:05 AM	#20
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	wow this is strange. When using in the drill I start and for some reason I can not tell when it is not cutting anymore. I have no feel for this yet. It appears when I do this the corners of the pockets are shiny and a small ammount of brass shavings. So it appears just the corners need uniforming on my brass now I can tell when the case starts to want to turn in my fingers that is when I stop

November 2, 2012, 01:11 PM	#21
temmi Senior Member Join Date: June 13, 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 531	I use the Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformer and No drill Snake

November 2, 2012, 08:28 PM	#23
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	K&M tool is preset and has a stop to prevent it from going too deep. Just I have no way of determining if I am using it correctly since I never seen one or used on before. K&M cust service told me with their tool you can not push too hard on the case because of its design will only cut the that depth regardless

November 3, 2012, 12:09 AM	#25
browninghunter86 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2011 Posts: 524	I went back and re did the cases and did alot better. I would uniform then dump shavings out. Uniform then dump shavings out. Took about 3-4 of this process to get the pockets looking like the pictures online of uniformed pockets. First time trying to uniform. Only about 20 seconds Here is the result of the process I mentioned at top of post Last edited by browninghunter86; November 3, 2012 at 12:14 AM.