Stock fininsh

speedwrench · August 31, 2014, 05:04 PM

Can anybody out ther tell me what winchester or turnbull uses to get that red tint or sheen that older winchesters have. And are there any videos on learning how to checker. Already called agi they got nothing. Saw a utube of potterfield dressing up a old win 67 that comes out beutiful. I just had a 1890 supposedly re stored very dissapointed, looks like 70's paneling. Any help on learning how to chcker or getting that antique redishness would be greatly appreciated.

Dixie Gunsmithing · August 31, 2014, 06:48 PM

I don't know of any videos, but it would be a good idea to put out. Anyhow, everyone that does it, including me, started with the book called: Checkering & Carving of Gunstocks by Monty Kennedy. I would read that before buying any tools. You also don't need a large set, just buy what you need according to the lines per inch. I am not sure if it is in there, but if you buy any checkering tool, by a tool from Brownell's called a "Jointer". It is a must to straighten out a line that goes crooked.

The Winchester finish was duplicated by Galazan (Connecticut Shotgun), and can get a kit here:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/160...h-instructions

Jointer:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...tSearch=Search

speedwrench · September 1, 2014, 01:49 AM

thank you for legit courteous reply.

Dixie Gunsmithing · September 1, 2014, 09:49 PM

I took a look at Larry Potterfield's video, but really, most of us was taught to do layout for checkering differently. Now, what he mentions about margins is all right, (the space left around the checkering pattern), but the way I do layout is different. I measure for the center line, and draw it with a grease pencil, and not a marker, as that can stain the finish, even if you wipe it off, and sometimes it does not come off completely. You can get grease pencils, or china marking pencils off eBay, and other places fairly cheap, and I would use either yellow or white so it will stand out on dark wood. Next, to start, you are better off using a pattern, which is available from Brownell's, if you are not sure you can lay out a matching pattern on both sides. To use these, you cut them out, align them to a center line, and use a pounce wheel, or even carbon paper to transfer the outline, and the starting X for the diamonds. If you want to go freehand, buy a plastic diamond template from Dem-Bart to get the correct angle. Last, most gun companies on regular stocks use 18 lines per inch. Narrower lines are generally used on high grade guns, and take much longer to cut. First, though, I would read that book.

August 31, 2014, 05:04 PM	#1
speedwrench Member Join Date: April 9, 2009 Posts: 25	Stock fininsh Can anybody out ther tell me what winchester or turnbull uses to get that red tint or sheen that older winchesters have. And are there any videos on learning how to checker. Already called agi they got nothing. Saw a utube of potterfield dressing up a old win 67 that comes out beutiful. I just had a 1890 supposedly re stored very dissapointed, looks like 70's paneling. Any help on learning how to chcker or getting that antique redishness would be greatly appreciated.

August 31, 2014, 06:48 PM	#2
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	I don't know of any videos, but it would be a good idea to put out. Anyhow, everyone that does it, including me, started with the book called: Checkering & Carving of Gunstocks by Monty Kennedy. I would read that before buying any tools. You also don't need a large set, just buy what you need according to the lines per inch. I am not sure if it is in there, but if you buy any checkering tool, by a tool from Brownell's called a "Jointer". It is a must to straighten out a line that goes crooked. The Winchester finish was duplicated by Galazan (Connecticut Shotgun), and can get a kit here: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/160...h-instructions Jointer: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...tSearch=Search

September 1, 2014, 01:49 AM	#3
speedwrench Member Join Date: April 9, 2009 Posts: 25	thank you for legit courteous reply.

September 1, 2014, 09:49 PM	#4
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	I took a look at Larry Potterfield's video, but really, most of us was taught to do layout for checkering differently. Now, what he mentions about margins is all right, (the space left around the checkering pattern), but the way I do layout is different. I measure for the center line, and draw it with a grease pencil, and not a marker, as that can stain the finish, even if you wipe it off, and sometimes it does not come off completely. You can get grease pencils, or china marking pencils off eBay, and other places fairly cheap, and I would use either yellow or white so it will stand out on dark wood. Next, to start, you are better off using a pattern, which is available from Brownell's, if you are not sure you can lay out a matching pattern on both sides. To use these, you cut them out, align them to a center line, and use a pounce wheel, or even carbon paper to transfer the outline, and the starting X for the diamonds. If you want to go freehand, buy a plastic diamond template from Dem-Bart to get the correct angle. Last, most gun companies on regular stocks use 18 lines per inch. Narrower lines are generally used on high grade guns, and take much longer to cut. First, though, I would read that book.