JB Weld for Mounting Scope - Page 2

ndking1126 · April 7, 2016, 08:17 PM

I used JB Weld on a rifle scope mount one time when I was young. I had scope mounts come loose twice and was not happy. It hasn't moved... at all. Not even a little. I'll probably never change the scope mount or lower half of the scope rings however.

Over all I wish I had known what Loctite was. I would have gone with that in a heart beat over JB Weld.

I don't see any reason to use JB Weld. Use Loctite if you are having issues.

cw308 · April 10, 2016, 02:54 PM

I have bed a one piece mount to the receiver for a perfect match, same way that you would the action to the stock. I would read up on lapping the rings , using torque settings,or get a high end set of rings & mount like Ken Farrell's. If your serious about shooting for accuracy, get the best you can efford.

swmike · April 17, 2016, 10:24 AM

Sometimes J-B can be a big help if you have a large scope mounted on a factory action that uses small 6-48 screws to secure the rail.

I recently built a "Custom" on a R700 action. Only .223 caliber with a NF 12-42-56mm NXS on top. Would get "multiple groups". 3 in a single hole then 2 in a separate group. 10 shot groups did the same with two sets of "bugholes" on the target.

No amount of torqing, re-torking, would eliminate this.

I finally removed the rail, de-greased it and the top of the action, applied some J-B weld, and secured the base to the action. Not "Bedded" but "Bonded".

Result? No more multiple groups and the rifle now shoots Sub .25 MOA at all distances I've shot it at.

Did the same to my .308 and a month ago had to remove the base. The screws came right out (I waxed their threads before "bonding") and gave the rail a smack with a screwdriver handle. Popped right off. I noticed that gone were the usual rub marks I saw on all my other rails when removed for one reason or another indicating that they'd been moving under recoil.

Took only a few moments to remove a few bits of epoxy that remained stuck to the action by using the square back edge of my pocket knife.

I wouldn't do this with the ring to base mounting or likewise on the scope. If the scope is slipping, try some fine ground rosin. If the rings are slipping on the rail, get some rings that have Picatinney LUGS on the bottom like Seekins or Vortex. The lugs fit the slots almost perfectly and don't allow for any movement.

tobnpr · April 17, 2016, 12:33 PM

Quote:

If the rings are slipping on the rail, get some rings that have Picatinney LUGS on the bottom like Seekins or Vortex. The lugs fit the slots almost perfectly and don't allow for any movement.

Worth noting, because I find more than a few shooters are unaware of the fact that rings need to be seated forward in their relative slots before tightening- same as a rifle's buttstock should be bumped on the ground to seat the recoil lug before snugging the front action screw first.

Tightening the ring base anywhere else in the slot where's there's forward movement possible is an invitation for it to move.

April 7, 2016, 08:17 PM	#26
ndking1126 Senior Member Join Date: January 26, 2008 Location: Madison, AL Posts: 1,932	I used JB Weld on a rifle scope mount one time when I was young. I had scope mounts come loose twice and was not happy. It hasn't moved... at all. Not even a little. I'll probably never change the scope mount or lower half of the scope rings however. Over all I wish I had known what Loctite was. I would have gone with that in a heart beat over JB Weld. I don't see any reason to use JB Weld. Use Loctite if you are having issues. Last edited by ndking1126; April 7, 2016 at 10:13 PM.

April 17, 2016, 10:24 AM	#28
swmike Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2005 Location: Marysville, WA Posts: 670	Sometimes J-B can be a big help if you have a large scope mounted on a factory action that uses small 6-48 screws to secure the rail. I recently built a "Custom" on a R700 action. Only .223 caliber with a NF 12-42-56mm NXS on top. Would get "multiple groups". 3 in a single hole then 2 in a separate group. 10 shot groups did the same with two sets of "bugholes" on the target. No amount of torqing, re-torking, would eliminate this. I finally removed the rail, de-greased it and the top of the action, applied some J-B weld, and secured the base to the action. Not "Bedded" but "Bonded". Result? No more multiple groups and the rifle now shoots Sub .25 MOA at all distances I've shot it at. Did the same to my .308 and a month ago had to remove the base. The screws came right out (I waxed their threads before "bonding") and gave the rail a smack with a screwdriver handle. Popped right off. I noticed that gone were the usual rub marks I saw on all my other rails when removed for one reason or another indicating that they'd been moving under recoil. Took only a few moments to remove a few bits of epoxy that remained stuck to the action by using the square back edge of my pocket knife. I wouldn't do this with the ring to base mounting or likewise on the scope. If the scope is slipping, try some fine ground rosin. If the rings are slipping on the rail, get some rings that have Picatinney LUGS on the bottom like Seekins or Vortex. The lugs fit the slots almost perfectly and don't allow for any movement. __________________ My definition of Gun Control--- A steady grip and hitting your target. "In God we trust, all others are suspects." "If I shoot all the ammo I am carrying, either I won't need any more, or more won't be of any help". ____________________________________________

April 10, 2016, 02:54 PM	#27
cw308 Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2010 Location: Plainview , Long Island NY Posts: 3,863	I have bed a one piece mount to the receiver for a perfect match, same way that you would the action to the stock. I would read up on lapping the rings , using torque settings,or get a high end set of rings & mount like Ken Farrell's. If your serious about shooting for accuracy, get the best you can efford.