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Old January 18, 2013, 01:37 PM   #1
Pahoo
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Taurus-94 question ??

A riend of mine, has a Taurus model-94. .22LR., nine shot. The hammer spring is really stiff and for a .22, hard to shoot in SA as well as DA. Have any of you fine folks, replace the springs? I have looked in Bownell and Midway and can't seem to find any. This little gun coud really be fun to shoot is it weren't so stiff. As usual, any all help would be appreciated. ...

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Old January 18, 2013, 06:46 PM   #2
PetahW
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I would suspect there's no weaker MS' available, because a hefty one's needed to actually fire the gun.

If anyone has the definitive answer, it's Wolff (as in: Wolff Springs)


.

Last edited by PetahW; January 19, 2013 at 04:45 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old January 18, 2013, 07:04 PM   #3
g.willikers
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The main spring is supposed to be adjustable on these.
Check the owner's manual or look here on page 15:
http://www.taurususa.com/pdf/revolver_manual.pdf
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Old January 19, 2013, 12:53 AM   #4
weblance
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You wont find that adjustable mainspring in your Model 94 that g. willikers has referenced to above this post. I have a Model 94 and ordered Wolff springs for it. I also have a Taurus model 905 revolver(centerfire). I installed one of the Wolff mainsprings in my 905 and took out the factory mainspring from the 905 and put it into the 94. The 94 now has a better DA trigger, and the SA trigger can be easily cocked. The trigger in DA is still pretty stout, but it went from being un-pullable, to being still heavy, but manageable. It still has 100% reliability. The Wolff mainspring in my 905 has made that gun unreliable, so I will have to look around for a factory centerfire replacement. If you can get Taurus to sell you a factory mainspring for one of their standard revolvers(85, 905), that would be my recommendation. Try and buy the centerfire trigger return spring from them and replace that too. That helps also.
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Old January 19, 2013, 01:06 AM   #5
weblance
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Added info... I originally tried the heaviest Wolff mainspring in the 94. It was about 75% reliable in SA, but in DA would only light maybe 3 of the 9 cartridges in the cylinder. Thats why I decided to try the mainspring from my centerfire 905. That did the trick. I have also read that some people cut a coil or two off of the factory rimfire mainspring, and have some success that way. You can search for that and see what you think about that idea. Since I really want the original springs back in my 905, I may consider doing this to the original rimfire spring from my 94, and put it back in. If you dont know, a rimfire revolver needs a stronger mainspring than an equivalent centerfire revolver, because it takes more hammer energy to fire the rimfire primer. Taurus uses the heaviest mainsprings I have ever come across, in their rimfire revolvers. Mine must be 50#. They dont need to be that heavy, as I have found with my centerfire mainspring experimenting.
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Old January 19, 2013, 01:57 AM   #6
Bill DeShivs
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The mainspring has to be stiff on a rimfire gun. Leave it alone.
Using a lighter trigger return spring helps quite a bit.
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Old January 19, 2013, 02:38 AM   #7
weblance
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It DOESN'T have to be as heavy as it is. Trust me... it can be improved and 100% reliability can be kept.
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Old January 19, 2013, 03:42 AM   #8
Bill DeShivs
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I agree, but telling someone how to do it is difficult. My point was that reducing the strength of the trigger return spring will provide the greatest benefit without compromising reliability.
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Old January 19, 2013, 12:04 PM   #9
g.willikers
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Be careful in lightening the trigger return spring.
A little too much can cause trigger return problems.
The main spring can be adjusted upward in poundage with shims, since that model has no adjuster.
So maybe lightening the main spring and, if that proves a little too light, then shimming, if necessary, would do the job.
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Old January 21, 2013, 12:06 PM   #10
xtriggerman
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I used to sell 94's as a dealer & did the triggers on a number of them. There are 2 versions of 94. the first had a firing pin that hit the bottom of the rim and the second version FP hit the top of the rim. The second version is more capable of reducing the trigger pull. Also, the reson these triggers are sprung so heavy is the factory tolerances embrace alot of cratridge movement foward n back, partly due to too much headspace and cylinder walk to and fro on the crane. You dont need much cartridge movement to make a strong pin hit into a lazy hit. Due to the above mentioned, I ALLWAYS start at the trigger rebound spring. but you need a trigger pull gauge to measure your progress. I trim that spring untill you have no less than .5 lb rebound pressure off a factory hammer spring. Once the trigger is rebounding at that rate, AND there is not excesive head space movement, take 1/2 coil off the hammer spring, put the cut end up and fire 9 rounds. compare all the 9 hits to uncut factory spring hits. continue untill you can see the hits are just begining to be not as deep and leave it there. If you go too far, you can always get another spring or washer the spring up at the top and that will reverse most of 1/2 of a cut. The ealier bottom hit FP guns needed more hammer spring to do the job with all the slop in the cylinders. Folks dont realize how important it is to have a tight cylinder to n fro with good head space in a 22. ALWAYS check the cylinder for that movement befor purchase. I like the 94s and even bored mine out to mag. It shoots tighter in mag than it did in LR! Its my wifes house gun these days cause she can shoot it so well.
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Old January 21, 2013, 12:14 PM   #11
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I thank you, Sir !!

xtriggerman
This is excellent information that exceeds my expectations. I certainly want to thank you and from the trigger work I have done in the past, I can tell that you have definitely been there ...

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Old January 21, 2013, 12:20 PM   #12
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Hard in SA??? mines like breaking glass. Maybe you should open it up and check for flakes/worn out parts?? oil/grease.
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