Question about removing the wedge.

Onaway417 · July 30, 2007, 10:59 PM

I am going to disassemble my new 1851 Navy and have a question about the wedge. On the right side (gun pointing down-range) the wedge seems to have a spring-like tab, or something. Does it have to be depressed in order to remove the wedge?
I have searched some of the threads regarding removal, and none mention the springy thing.

mykeal · July 31, 2007, 06:33 AM

The wedge spring on my Colts does not need to be depressed in order for the wedge to be displaced. The spring, in combination with the screw head on the other side of the barrel, keeps the wedge in the slot once it's fully driven through the barrel. It is not necessary, in fact, it's not recommended, that you fully remove the wedge from the barrel assembly. Just push it through enough to remove the barrel.

Shotgun Willy · July 31, 2007, 09:50 AM

The wedge spring on my 1860 has to be depressed before it can be removed. It hooks on the right side of the frame when it's in place. It will go back in with just finger pressure but it requires a tool to remove it. Don't use steel tools, they'll mar the finish.
Bill

JayC · July 31, 2007, 10:49 AM

If you search "barrel wedge," you'll find a thread that I started a while back. You'll note that I broke the wedge spring pin and damaged the wedge itself. The good news is that the damaged wedge, without the spring, works just fine now that I narrowed it (front to back, or muzzle to breech, dimension).

mykeal · July 31, 2007, 12:17 PM

I have 6 Colt revolvers that have the barrel wedge "feature": a Uberti 2nd Model Dragoon, a Colt Signature 3rd Model Dragoon, a Pietta 1851 Navy, a Pietta 1860 Army, a Uberti 1861 Navy and a Uberti 1862 Pocket Police. All work the same way.

The barrel assembly has a screw on the (gun's) left side, placed in such a way that the head of the screw contacts the wedge spring's upper surface when the wedge is in the barrel slot.

When the wedge is driven through the barrel assembly, that is, inserted left to right as seen from the back of the gun, the screw head depresses the spring so that the lip of the spring is lowered and does not interfere or contact the barrel assembly.

With the wedge fully inserted the spring is still depressed such that the lip on the spring is below the outer mold line of the wedge and thus fully within the channel in the wedge. It does not protrude above the wedge and cannot contact the barrel assembly or interfere with removing the wedge.

When the wedge is driven back out of the slot (removed), the screw head allows the spring to return to it's undeflected position as the wedge moves right to left. In the fully restored (undeflected or relaxed) position, the lip on the spring contacts the back side of the screw head and prevents the wedge from being fully removed from the barrel assembly. I believe this is the intended purpose of the spring, the spring lip and the screw.

This is a best a rudimentary design. Some degree of precision is required of parts that are subject to damage and wear, so it is to be expected that it would not work all the time. The spring can become worn or bent and loose restoring force, dirt can become lodged under the spring preventing it from being fully depressed, the lip can be worn down, the screw head can become nicked or bent, all of which will affect the design performance.

All of mine still work, but many people have difficulty with the wedge and wedge spring. It's not the best "feature" on the Civil War era Colts.

Raider2000 · July 31, 2007, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mykeal

I have 6 Colt revolvers that have the barrel wedge "feature": a Uberti 2nd Model Dragoon, a Colt Signature 3rd Model Dragoon, a Pietta 1851 Navy, a Pietta 1860 Army, a Uberti 1861 Navy and a Uberti 1862 Pocket Police. All work the same way.

The barrel assembly has a screw on the (gun's) left side, placed in such a way that the head of the screw contacts the wedge spring's upper surface when the wedge is in the barrel slot.

When the wedge is driven through the barrel assembly, that is, inserted left to right as seen from the back of the gun, the screw head depresses the spring so that the lip of the spring is lowered and does not interfere or contact the barrel assembly.

With the wedge fully inserted the spring is still depressed such that the lip on the spring is below the outer mold line of the wedge and thus fully within the channel in the wedge. It does not protrude above the wedge and cannot contact the barrel assembly or interfere with removing the wedge.

When the wedge is driven back out of the slot (removed), the screw head allows the spring to return to it's undeflected position as the wedge moves right to left. In the fully restored (undeflected or relaxed) position, the lip on the spring contacts the back side of the screw head and prevents the wedge from being fully removed from the barrel assembly. I believe this is the intended purpose of the spring, the spring lip and the screw.

This is a best a rudimentary design. Some degree of precision is required of parts that are subject to damage and wear, so it is to be expected that it would not work all the time. The spring can become worn or bent and loose restoring force, dirt can become lodged under the spring preventing it from being fully depressed, the lip can be worn down, the screw head can become nicked or bent, all of which will affect the design performance.

All of mine still work, but many people have difficulty with the wedge and wedge spring. It's not the best "feature" on the Civil War era Colts.

That's exactly how my 2 work.
I have an orriginal 1851 Colt Navy & a Stone Mountain reproduction 1851 Navy in .44 cal & both function as you described to a T, but I have to slightly dissagree with your last statement, because even though the Remingtons solid frame design was the design of things to come but for a Cap & Ball revolver the Colt design was superior in that you could fire more shots by comparrison because of the wedge & arbor design.

mykeal · July 31, 2007, 08:11 PM

Quote:

...but I have to slightly dissagree with your last statement, because even though the Remingtons solid frame design was the design of things to come but for a Cap & Ball revolver the Colt design was superior in that you could fire more shots by comparrison because of the wedge & arbor design.

I didn't mean to suggest the open frame Colt design was inferior to the Remington. That debate is beyond my abilities. I like both, plus the Rogers and Spencer and the 73 Colts as well.

All I meant to say was that the spring/screw/slot combination in the wedge needed some improvement, in my estimation. It's function is often misunderstood, causing people to mishandle it. That design detail is one small problem on an otherwise superb (for the time) weapon.

Joe the Redneck · August 3, 2007, 08:25 PM

As soon as Sam passed on, Colt went to the remington top strap design. Sam felt it was a wast of metal.

The Remington is the superior design, but I just love the Colts.

July 30, 2007, 10:59 PM	#1
Onaway417 Junior Member Join Date: July 10, 2007 Posts: 7	Question about removing the wedge. I am going to disassemble my new 1851 Navy and have a question about the wedge. On the right side (gun pointing down-range) the wedge seems to have a spring-like tab, or something. Does it have to be depressed in order to remove the wedge? I have searched some of the threads regarding removal, and none mention the springy thing.

July 31, 2007, 09:50 AM	#3
Shotgun Willy Member Join Date: May 22, 2007 Location: Oklahoma Territory Posts: 98	Spring The wedge spring on my 1860 has to be depressed before it can be removed. It hooks on the right side of the frame when it's in place. It will go back in with just finger pressure but it requires a tool to remove it. Don't use steel tools, they'll mar the finish. Bill

July 31, 2007, 10:49 AM	#4
JayC Member Join Date: June 16, 2007 Posts: 34	Do this search If you search "barrel wedge," you'll find a thread that I started a while back. You'll note that I broke the wedge spring pin and damaged the wedge itself. The good news is that the damaged wedge, without the spring, works just fine now that I narrowed it (front to back, or muzzle to breech, dimension).

July 31, 2007, 12:17 PM	#5
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	How the wedge spring on my Colts works I have 6 Colt revolvers that have the barrel wedge "feature": a Uberti 2nd Model Dragoon, a Colt Signature 3rd Model Dragoon, a Pietta 1851 Navy, a Pietta 1860 Army, a Uberti 1861 Navy and a Uberti 1862 Pocket Police. All work the same way. The barrel assembly has a screw on the (gun's) left side, placed in such a way that the head of the screw contacts the wedge spring's upper surface when the wedge is in the barrel slot. When the wedge is driven through the barrel assembly, that is, inserted left to right as seen from the back of the gun, the screw head depresses the spring so that the lip of the spring is lowered and does not interfere or contact the barrel assembly. With the wedge fully inserted the spring is still depressed such that the lip on the spring is below the outer mold line of the wedge and thus fully within the channel in the wedge. It does not protrude above the wedge and cannot contact the barrel assembly or interfere with removing the wedge. When the wedge is driven back out of the slot (removed), the screw head allows the spring to return to it's undeflected position as the wedge moves right to left. In the fully restored (undeflected or relaxed) position, the lip on the spring contacts the back side of the screw head and prevents the wedge from being fully removed from the barrel assembly. I believe this is the intended purpose of the spring, the spring lip and the screw. This is a best a rudimentary design. Some degree of precision is required of parts that are subject to damage and wear, so it is to be expected that it would not work all the time. The spring can become worn or bent and loose restoring force, dirt can become lodged under the spring preventing it from being fully depressed, the lip can be worn down, the screw head can become nicked or bent, all of which will affect the design performance. All of mine still work, but many people have difficulty with the wedge and wedge spring. It's not the best "feature" on the Civil War era Colts.

July 31, 2007, 06:33 AM	#2
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	The wedge spring on my Colts does not need to be depressed in order for the wedge to be displaced. The spring, in combination with the screw head on the other side of the barrel, keeps the wedge in the slot once it's fully driven through the barrel. It is not necessary, in fact, it's not recommended, that you fully remove the wedge from the barrel assembly. Just push it through enough to remove the barrel.

August 3, 2007, 08:25 PM	#8
Joe the Redneck Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 1998 Location: New port richey FL us Posts: 473	As soon as Sam passed on, Colt went to the remington top strap design. Sam felt it was a wast of metal. The Remington is the superior design, but I just love the Colts.