Black acacia for gunstocks?

efiles123 · October 30, 2013, 11:05 PM

Has anyone ever heard of or seen a black acacia gunstock. I had some black acacia logs delivered to my sawmill about a year ago and I just start milling it with excellent results. I've already milled some a fire place mantel and some other slabs that hopefully can be marketed as gunstock blanks. Any input is appreciated.

semi_problomatic · October 30, 2013, 11:25 PM

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/hardw...wood_wood.html

http://www.oceania-art.com/wood/hod.html 4 down

http://www.bateleurarms.com/Naboom_custom_stocks.htm

semi_problomatic · October 30, 2013, 11:29 PM

Probably needs to be cut right; dried properly from 3-12 years, depending on where you live... and the it'd be gunstock wood.

http://doublegunshop.com/phiatt4.htm

efiles123 · October 30, 2013, 11:54 PM

Sounds like quite a process, maybe ill just stick to selling raw slabs. Except for the damaged pieces could be cut down into what may eventually be a gunstock blank.

Roughedge · October 31, 2013, 02:55 PM

What are you asking for a 2x6 by 4foot long good solid peice incase I decide to make a stock from it?

efiles123 · November 5, 2013, 12:26 PM

Not sure yet, it's kinda hard to figure price at this point. I think I might post a blank on gun broker and ebay to get an idea on what this stuff is worth. I'll keep this thread updated.

efiles123 · November 14, 2013, 01:32 AM

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[/IMG]Here's some pics of acacia that I just pulled off the mill yesterday.

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tobnpr · November 16, 2013, 12:02 PM

They don't look wide enough? 2-1/4" minimum needed (usually).

As mentioned, blanks are slowly air-dried, end grain sealed (waxed) to help "even" the drying of the blank. If this isn't done, or if the blank isn't dry enough, it can warp/twist later. It needs to be "stable" with temp/humidity changes.

No expert here (I buy only seasoned blanks for my stocks), but those large cracks look problematic. Perhaps caused by uneven or too rapid drying of the slab.

Wood grain needs to flow in the direction of the wrist when laying out out the pattern.

efiles123 · November 17, 2013, 01:33 PM

The thinnest one is 2.5" thick. I figured I'd sell a few wet for a discounted price along with the fact some do have some cracks. I think the cracks can easily be avoided considering the size of the slabs. These slabs are much wider than the average gunstock blank.

Not sure if it's against the rules but I'm willing to post links of me ebay ads for those interested and would like more detailed info. Or PM me.

603Country · November 18, 2013, 01:21 PM

Wood should dry (air dry) for about one year per inch of thickness. You can buy a moisture meter to measure how dry the wood is now and at times in the future. A good moisture meter is kind of expensive. I have a cheap one.

I'd be pretty tempted to trim off the end with the splits and then seal the end with wax or some other sealer (paint will usually work, but make sure you get enough on there. That'll let the wood all dry at the same rate, which should eliminate more end splits. It might still warp or twist as it dries, but that isn't necessarily a deal killer on later use. Make sure that as it dries, air can get to both sides equally.

And...if you're just in a hurry to make that stock, you can google up how to build and use a home-made drying kiln. And then you will need the moisture meter.

October 30, 2013, 11:05 PM	#1
efiles123 Junior Member Join Date: October 30, 2013 Posts: 5	Black acacia for gunstocks? Has anyone ever heard of or seen a black acacia gunstock. I had some black acacia logs delivered to my sawmill about a year ago and I just start milling it with excellent results. I've already milled some a fire place mantel and some other slabs that hopefully can be marketed as gunstock blanks. Any input is appreciated.

October 30, 2013, 11:25 PM	#2
semi_problomatic Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2009 Location: Ft. Polk Posts: 883	http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/hardw...wood_wood.html http://www.oceania-art.com/wood/hod.html 4 down http://www.bateleurarms.com/Naboom_custom_stocks.htm __________________ Freedom's just a word. If I'm gonna die for a word, my word is jello...

October 30, 2013, 11:29 PM	#3
semi_problomatic Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2009 Location: Ft. Polk Posts: 883	Probably needs to be cut right; dried properly from 3-12 years, depending on where you live... and the it'd be gunstock wood. http://doublegunshop.com/phiatt4.htm __________________ Freedom's just a word. If I'm gonna die for a word, my word is jello... Last edited by semi_problomatic; October 30, 2013 at 11:34 PM.

October 31, 2013, 02:55 PM	#5
Roughedge Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2011 Location: Monroe,NC Posts: 669	What are you asking for a 2x6 by 4foot long good solid peice incase I decide to make a stock from it? __________________ The man that die's with the most stuff win's!

November 14, 2013, 01:32 AM	#7
efiles123 Junior Member Join Date: October 30, 2013 Posts: 5	[IMG][/IMG]Here's some pics of acacia that I just pulled off the mill yesterday. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] Last edited by efiles123; November 14, 2013 at 01:37 AM.

October 30, 2013, 11:54 PM	#4
efiles123 Junior Member Join Date: October 30, 2013 Posts: 5	Sounds like quite a process, maybe ill just stick to selling raw slabs. Except for the damaged pieces could be cut down into what may eventually be a gunstock blank.

November 5, 2013, 12:26 PM	#6
efiles123 Junior Member Join Date: October 30, 2013 Posts: 5	Not sure yet, it's kinda hard to figure price at this point. I think I might post a blank on gun broker and ebay to get an idea on what this stuff is worth. I'll keep this thread updated.

November 16, 2013, 12:02 PM	#8
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	They don't look wide enough? 2-1/4" minimum needed (usually). As mentioned, blanks are slowly air-dried, end grain sealed (waxed) to help "even" the drying of the blank. If this isn't done, or if the blank isn't dry enough, it can warp/twist later. It needs to be "stable" with temp/humidity changes. No expert here (I buy only seasoned blanks for my stocks), but those large cracks look problematic. Perhaps caused by uneven or too rapid drying of the slab. Wood grain needs to flow in the direction of the wrist when laying out out the pattern. __________________ Remington 700/Savage Rebarreling /Action Blueprinting 07 FFL /Mosin-Nagant Custom Shop/Bent Bolts Genuine Cerakote Applicator www.biggorillagunworks.com

November 17, 2013, 01:33 PM	#9
efiles123 Junior Member Join Date: October 30, 2013 Posts: 5	The thinnest one is 2.5" thick. I figured I'd sell a few wet for a discounted price along with the fact some do have some cracks. I think the cracks can easily be avoided considering the size of the slabs. These slabs are much wider than the average gunstock blank. Not sure if it's against the rules but I'm willing to post links of me ebay ads for those interested and would like more detailed info. Or PM me.

November 18, 2013, 01:21 PM	#10
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,996	Wood should dry (air dry) for about one year per inch of thickness. You can buy a moisture meter to measure how dry the wood is now and at times in the future. A good moisture meter is kind of expensive. I have a cheap one. I'd be pretty tempted to trim off the end with the splits and then seal the end with wax or some other sealer (paint will usually work, but make sure you get enough on there. That'll let the wood all dry at the same rate, which should eliminate more end splits. It might still warp or twist as it dries, but that isn't necessarily a deal killer on later use. Make sure that as it dries, air can get to both sides equally. And...if you're just in a hurry to make that stock, you can google up how to build and use a home-made drying kiln. And then you will need the moisture meter.

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