Fluted barrel vs. non fluted?

[GHILLIE MAN]

Hi, im buying a new bull barrel for my custom 10/22 that im building.
I've decided on a Whistle Pig barrel (very reputable company, good prices, and ships to Canada). I am torn between a fluted barrel with built in compensator or a non fluted barrel? I've enclose a picture of the fluted barrel in question: http://www.flickr.com/photos/56563011@N06/5222536855

My purpose for the gun right now is bench rest shooting/plinking.
I like the look of the fluted barrel with compensator but is it practical?
I know it dissipates heat better, and reduces weight indefinitely, but will accuracy suffer? Someone on another forum mentioned that most match .22lr championships winners barrels are not fluted? This makes me wonder. Is it because it is a slow match competition so barrel heat isn't a factor? or is it that the accuracy is slightly decreased?

Any opinions or experience would be great

[Picher]

From all I've read, fluted barrels are not as accurate as unfluted barrels, due to the machining involved that can cause stresses to be translated to the bore. That's not to say that an individual fluted barrel won't outshoot an unfluted one, just that the round barrels tend to be more accurate.

Compensators will also cause minor point of impact changes and affect optimal accuracy. I've never heard of a muzzle break on a rimfire benchrest rifle or serious target rifle, though they've been used for rapid-fire offhand shooting where recoil recovery is the primary concern, not ultimate accuracy.

[thesheepdog]

For a 10/22 i don't see the necessity of adding a heavy fluted barrel. Harmonics are very low on .22 LR bullets and a standard SS barrel will put bullets through the same hole at 25 yards.

Fluted will be lighter with the added benefit of a heavy barrel; but like I said, it's not really going to make a difference in accuracy.

[woodguru]

I had several Volquartsen barrels, fluted, solid, and the tensioned carbon fiber, my favorite was the carbon fiber on a 597 action because of both the weight and the better 597 action. It's the little things like magazines that drop into your hand with the light touch of a well placed button, and a slick as snot action. Accuracy was the same on all of them.

The critical part of your custom isn't the barrel configuration (aside from what weight you prefer), it's the action, scope, and trigger. Without an excellent trigger it isn't a full out target rifle. It seems you are more than likely going to be going to Volquartsen there.

My order of priority on a .22 build would be:
1. Trigger
2. Scope
3. Barrel
4. Stock

Bottom line is that if you like the looks of a fluted barrel it isn't going to make any difference on a .22, they look cool.

Oh, compensator on a .22, why? They make a lot of unnecessary noise to the sides, and holes you'll never clean. And yes, a heavy barrel stays cooler for longer sustained shooting, a semi auto by definition will have you burning a lot of rounds. I like heavier than standard barrels.

Have fun

[GHILLIE MAN]

The critical part of your custom isn't the barrel configuration (aside from what weight you prefer), it's the action, scope, and trigger. Without an excellent trigger it isn't a full out target rifle. It seems you are more than likely going to be going to Volquartsen there.

While i agree with you, the barrel is a crucial part of a target rifle. Lilja doesnt charge $500 for barrels for looks, they clearly shoot amazing and are gold medal winners at Olympic games. (albeit its 99% the shooter).

I guess for the most part the pretense i'm getting is that on a .22lr a fluted/compensated barrel is almost purely for cosmetic reasons? And for larger calibers is when it starts to make a difference. Ie. extreme heat, or unwanted weight/or weight maximum limit. not likely a factor with a .22lr

I know that flutes add strength to barrels. but only if the barrels are the same weight and length. A common misconception is people believe that if you take two barrels of the same length and weight, and then flute one of them, the fluted one will be stronger. Wrong.

As far as the compensator, its built into the barrel and not attached separately. Talking to the manufacturer he said his built in compensator is almost purely for looks, yet some customers have reported minor accuracy increases. not decreases. but no reliable data backing that claim.

btw Here's my set up as follows (some parts have yet to be added/purchased).

- Ruger 10/22 receiver/action/trigger group
- Hogue Overmolded .920” stock
- Whistle Pig bull barrel (18” in. matte black anodized)
- Leapers 5th generation 3-9x40 mm tactical scope with mil dot
red/green illuminated reticle and sun shade
- Volquartsen extended bolt handle charger
- Volquartsen target hammer and shims
- Volquartsen auto bolt release
- Wurstmeister bolt buffer
- Wurstmeister takedown screw
- 3 point sling
- Shooters Ridge Rock Mount foldable spring bipod 6”-9”
- Rambo 1” weaver scope rings
- Ruger 3/8th in. dovetail scope rail

Im sure i will add more things as i go, but after this barrel purchase im up to $700.00

so i'll have to lay off for a while. Good thing i dont have a wife, or i'd be hearing about it by now...

[GHILLIE MAN]

From all I've read, fluted barrels are not as accurate as unfluted barrels, due to the machining involved that can cause stresses to be translated to the bore. That's not to say that an individual fluted barrel won't outshoot an unfluted one, just that the round barrels tend to be more accurate.

I think this is due to how the rifling is done. Usually it's done by either push button, pull button, or cut rifling.

The cut rifling barrels have the flutes cut into them first, and then they are rifled. With the other two the flutes are cut after the rifling process. Some say cutting the flutes into the barrel after the rifling process can cause stresses on the rifling in turn affecting accuracy, however its all depending on the barrel itself/ ammunition you're using. Lilja barrels (probably one of the finest barrel makers) uses the pull button process as opposed to the cut, or push. They cut flutes into their barrels after the rifling, and seem not to have an issue. So i guess it really depends on your barrels "personality" if you will.

[GHILLIE MAN]

I guess i should of mentioned the Whistle Pig barrel is an aluminum barrel with a steel insert. So i guess the way its rifled and fluted wont matter considering its a steel insert into the aluminum barrel. So the factor of extra stresses to the bore during the fluting process is ultimately eliminated with this barrel. Never really thought of that til now.

[woodguru]

You wanna hear something interesting?

Building a rifle in terms of assembling all of the exact components is a lot of fun for most. Also it seems to be a matter of economics to pay for an item or two at a time rather than shell out for an already done custom.

I bought 3 Volquartsens on GB and did not pay more than $600 for any of them. One was a Remington 597 based with the carbon fiber tensioned barrel and a one off custom breech to barrel bridge for the scope, they stock those for Rugers but the 597 was a one off. Cost of the 597 was $350 plus shipping. The $600 one was an all out with $1300 worth of separate items plus the donor 10/22. I typically keep an eye out for a custom done with all the right stuff and pay half or less what it would cost me to do it myself.

There's a lot of guys in it for the fun of the build, they buy everything right and sell it so they can do another.

[GHILLIE MAN]

You wanna hear something interesting?

Building a rifle in terms of assembling all of the exact components is a lot of fun for most. Also it seems to be a matter of economics to pay for an item or two at a time rather than shell out for an already done custom.

I bought 3 Volquartsens on GB and did not pay more than $600 for any of them. One was a Remington 597 based with the carbon fiber tensioned barrel and a one off custom breech to barrel bridge for the scope, they stock those for Rugers but the 597 was a one off. Cost of the 597 was $350 plus shipping. The $600 one was an all out with $1300 worth of separate items plus the donor 10/22. I typically keep an eye out for a custom done with all the right stuff and pay half or less what it would cost me to do it myself.

There's a lot of guys in it for the fun of the build, they buy everything right and sell it so they can do another.
__________________

I know i could probably buy a fully finished build for a little cheaper, but like you said, the hunt for the part, the assembling, and general hobby of making your own custom rifle is half of the fun. I've learned so much about my gun just by being the one that has put it together. You gain a certain intimacy with your rifle when you build/assemble it yourself. almost Like watching it grow lol

Also, im in Canada, so the prices you see are mostly based from the U.S.A. Unless you're not American? and the prices in Canada are a lot more! some items i have seen here for 10/22's are twice the price of the U.S. The stock Ruger 10/22 target tactical goes for almost $600 here. So my build at $700 i think is pretty good.

[sc928porsche]

When you flute a barrel, it REMOVES metal thus making the barrel thinner. The ability of the barrel to absorb heat becomes less but you have more surface area to cool. It usually ends up as an even trade off but it looks "Cool" (as in tatci-cool). Fluting is best left to "bull"barrels where the outside diameter is much larger. When fluted, it will reduce the minimum outside diameter to about that of a sport barrel but will retain the stiffness of the bull and cool better than the sporting barrel. This of course depends solely on how deep the flutes are.

[Picher]

Fluting adds a bit of surface area, but not as much as bead-blasting, which allows round barrels to cool considerably faster than a fluted, smooth one. If heating is an issue, you might try both fluting and bead-blasting.

[GHILLIE MAN]

Fluting adds a bit of surface area, but not as much as bead-blasting, which allows round barrels to cool considerably faster than a fluted, smooth one. If heating is an issue, you might try both fluting and bead-blasting.

Heat wont really be an issue with the .22lr i think. But then again, you never know. The manufacturer of the barrel said his flutes definitely help with heat, and keeping groups from stringing out when shooting over a long period without letting the barrel cool. Also the barrel is made of aluminum which dissipates heat much easier than steel, yet, it heats up quicker...

[A_Gamehog]

they clearly shoot amazing and are gold medal winners at Olympic games

Nobody uses a Ruger 10/22 action in the olympics. Lets get that out there first. No 22 lr barrel I have shot has ever had issues with overheating. But as far as a
barrel from Lilja they "match" the barrel to the ammo made from Ely by diameter.
This match ammo alone is 20$ per box. The accuracy/quality of the ammo dictates your success at the range. You should have a really nice rig when it's done.

[GHILLIE MAN]

Nobody uses a Ruger 10/22 action in the olympics. Lets get that out there first.

No where in my sentence did i say a Ruger 10/22 was used for the Olympics. I said Lilja barrels are used. It's usually a Lilja barrel with an Anschutz rifle.