lee liquid alox smokes

[clinck]

I find that the lee liquid alox smokes am I doing something wrong.
Is there any lube that does not smoke?

[Jim Watson]

There are getting to be a number of brands of polymer coated lead bullets here in the USA that do not smoke much. Many use the Hi Tek coating from J&M Specialty Products in Australia. It must be pretty good to warrant shipping across the Pacific. The ones I have shot are satisfactory.
You can DIY the Hi Tek coating.

The other New Thing in cast bullets is powder coating. There is a lot of internet discussion on the methods.

[Beagle333]

Missouri Bullets is now offering HI-TEK coated projectiles.

SNS Casting, LNL Casting, BBI, also offer the coated projectiles.

Gateway Bullets and Bayou Bullets offer the finished projectiles or product to coat your own.

Happy Shooting!

[pete2]

Any bullet lubed with grease smokes. Try some of the coated bullets or plated ones for less smoke.

[Hawg]

Whats wrong with a little smoke?

[Rangefinder]

Yup, it smokes. No worries, no problem. ME? I've been part of the powder Coating population for the last couple years. Not because of smoke, but because it did THIS:



Two different tests, two different batches (half TL and half PC in each batch/test). 20 yards with my .40S&W, all identical loads. Everything I've tested so far, including rifles, has PC tightening groups noticeably. AND, it's much cleaner--even than jacketed.

[clinck]

Sounds great definitely gonna look into powder coating so if you have any pointers on how to DIY these different coatings please share.

[FrankenMauser]

These grabbed my attention:

I find that the lee liquid alox smokes am I doing something wrong.

Whats wrong with a little smoke?

So, I figured it was a good time to bring up an old point:

Liquid Alox is not a lubricant. It's a corrosion preventative compound (a sealant), and was never intended to be exposed to the abuse it gets when fired from a centerfire cartridge.

Using LA for a bullet lube is roughly akin to using lasagna as sunscreen lotion (or grape jelly as a wheel bearing lubricant). It might get you by... but it isn't right.

[oldpapps]

"Sounds great definitely gonna look into powder coating so if you have any pointers on how to DIY these different coatings please share."

Check the other Threads in this Forum. Most by 'Beagle333' will have information on 'coating'. As the process is continuing to evolve, keep reading the data. The process is simple, easy, cheap and works.

I don't know if South Africa has 'Cool Whip' brand but any number 5 recycle coded plastic bowl with a lid will work, I like ones with a bottom bubble (less product, more bowl).

Enjoy,

OSOK

[clinck]

Thanks for the advice. I found a place in South Africa that supplies powder coating for 53 Rand per kilogram which is about 5 Dollars. So I am deffinately gonna give it a go.

The more I practice the luckier I get.

[11B-101ABN]

There are lots of vids on utube about powder-coat and how to do it, or you can go to the "cast boolit and gunloads" forum (they spell boolit that way to specify cast as opposed to jacketed projectiles) they even have a sub forum called "coatings and alternatives" with about 4 or 5 active threads on the PC processes with lots of pictures and descriptions. Be prepared to spend some time, some of the threads have over 100 posts.

[Beagle333]

Actually, jacketed projectiles are J-words over there. Boolits denotes a bullet that you made yourself, versus a store-bought bullet. You can by lead bullets (such as the knurled wadcutters and RFN's by Hornady, Speer, etc) and you can also buy commercial lead bullets (Missouri Bullet Company, etc) but not boolits.

Coated bullets:


Coated boolits:

[chris in va]

Yeah, I've about had it with using 45-45-10 mix. It dries fast but really gums up my guns and the 'lube' strips off pretty darn quick in a carbine barrel. Smokes like a nicotine addict.

[skizzums]

ugh, I HATE alox. I used a ton because its cheap and easy, but it was almost embarrassing to shoot. I cant tell you how many times I was asked if I was shooting black powder. I also got several comments about my reloads being poor quality, or seems dirty.....people kill me.

I didn't start PC because of peoples comments though, I did it because of leading. my 300 blackout would be dripping with lead after a shoot with ALOX(probably my fault, but PC was the easy fix) the start-up for PC is ridiculously cheap, like 40$ and that includes the powder from harbor freight, which one pound will last a lifetime. do the cool-whip method, not the prettiest, but the cheapest, make sure you have a sizing die for afterwards, and have a fun "non-smoking" future. youll love the results

1 pound Harbor Freight "RED" powder-6$
1 Wal-Mart toaster oven-20$
1 unnecessarily large container of "BLACK" airsoft bb's-16$
1 container of Cool-Whip-2$

[Shane Tuttle]

Originally Posted by Rangefinder

Two different tests, two different batches (half TL and half PC in each batch/test). 20 yards with my .40S&W, all identical loads. Everything I've tested so far, including rifles, has PC tightening groups noticeably. AND, it's much cleaner--even than jacketed.

What?! I didn't know that it's cleaner than jacketed. Something I'm gonna hafta look into...

[Beagle333]

1 unnecessarily large container of "BLACK" airsoft bb's-16$

Yeah.... what's up with that? I guess the bb shooters need bulk jugs of the stuff. My WM didn't have any pint size cans either. I don't even know if they offer smaller cans..... but ... I got bb's for life!

[FrankenMauser]

Yeah.... what's up with that? I guess the bb shooters need bulk jugs of the stuff. My WM didn't have any pint size cans either. I don't even know if they offer smaller cans..... but ... I got bb's for life!

It's quite easy to blow through 1,000+ airsoft BBs without even trying - especially with semi-auto or full-auto guns.
And... you can't re-use them. You can TRY, but they'll jam in the gun and possibly even cause breakage.

I got two of my nieces full-auto airsoft M4s for Christmas a year and a half ago. Along with the rifles (which each had a 40-round magazine and a 390-round magazine), I gave each of them 23,000 BBs.
....They were out within 2 weeks.


I have a Beretta Ninety-Two airsoft clone (pretty nice chunk of plastic, actually) that I use for shooting the neighbors' dogs when they get into my yard, shooting my wife's cats when they're attacking song birds, or shooting the dog that lives here when he starts rolling in cat crap.
In 4 years, I've gone through about 9,000 BBs -- and 95% of those were fired at misbehaving animals, not 'wasted' by playing around.

[Beagle333]

I have a Beretta Ninety-Two airsoft clone (pretty nice chunk of plastic, actually)

Hmmmmm... mebbe I should look into getting one of those things. 'Just for the wife to play with.... I mean.
Now.... how do I cast plastic BBs? Cause you know I'm too cheap to buy my ammo!

[res45]

I've used Alox for years,I powder coat as well but I still use Alox or Xlox thinned with mineral spirits or a 50/50 mix of Alox / JPW with some loads.

I've never really had any smoke issue or gumming up of the firearm or seater die. I always warm my bullets and lube before applying the lube which allows me to use less lube than putting it on cold bullets.

About 10 to 15 drops per 50 to 100 bullets depending on weight and caliber seems to do just fine as I do to light coats. A nice golden sheen is the result and no leading with very little if any smoke issues.

[zxcvbob]

If the smoke is excessive, you are using too much lube OR you're using Titegroup powder with lead bullets. (or both)

I used to like Rooster Jacket for non-magnum loads. (it disappeared off the market and afaik it hasn't come back) There's probably a commercial liquid floor wax that would work just as good but I don't know how you'd find it without a lot of trial and error.

The powdercoat == tighter groups thing is interesting. Might have to look into it...