Rechambering the 223

xcalibor67 · January 24, 2015, 02:10 PM

Here again I always have to be the oddball

. Found 100k posts on converting a 222 to a 223, but cant find any info on converting a 223 to a
222 Magnum. Before we get into the "Why" aspect, lemme say I reload and have about 5k new 222mag. cases on hand..And besides, everyone and his brother has the 223, im old, I like old things,lol. From what I can find on case specs. the triple deuce mag. reamer should clean up nicely in the 223 chamber. Anyone having some for sure knowledge, please advise. Thanks.

Jim Watson · January 24, 2015, 02:26 PM

I don't KNOW but can caution that the chamber dimensions aft of the shoulder are very similar. A perfect .222 Mag reamer should clean up a perfect .223 chamber. A little mismatch, still within tolerance limits, might leave a ring in the chamber.

Where is Scorch when you need him?

xcalibor67 · January 24, 2015, 03:36 PM

Understand...I wonder if facing the barrel say, 20kths before io start reaming will help any? Im like you, I feel sure it will work, but the finished chamber will be determined by how closely my reamer runs with the existing chamber..Now to decide if I should finish it by hand, or chuck it in a lathe..Thanks for the reply.

Scorch · January 25, 2015, 12:09 AM

You rang?

Yes, unless the 223 chamber is sloppy, you will completely clean up the 223 chamber with a 222 Mag reamer. It works because, although the shoulders are nearly the same size, the 222 Mag case body is less tapered and the shoulder is .030" farther forward, so the 222 Mag will clean up a 223 chamber completely. I would not worry about it at all.

xcalibor67 · January 25, 2015, 02:32 PM

Thanks Scorch, The answer I was looking for. The barrel I use will most likely be a brand new Criterion SS...
Off topic, but instead of starting a new thread, may I ask suggestions on twist rate? Seems now, a lot the latest & greatest rifle makers are going to the 1/9 or faster twist. Considering Remington choose the 1/14 or 1/12 for umpteen yrs, would this mean surely the faster twist is better? I will be using 45/55 gr flat base bullets. I looked @ Midway usa and was surprised to find they now offer a 90gr 22 cal. bullet...Berger maybe?. Either way I was dumb founded.
I have never shot any 22's in that weight range, but would think you would sacrifice a lot of FPS to keep pressures in spec? Meh thinks i'll keep my rifle @ what it was originally intended for, lighter HV(for the day) loads.Hell, if wanted a 90 gr pill I will drag out the 6mm, 260 rem. or something else..

Jim Watson · January 25, 2015, 04:03 PM

A faster twist will not buy you anything IF you shoot the 50-55 grain flatbase spitzers the caliber was originally loaded with.
A 9 twist will set you up for 68, maybe 75 grain bullets and still do ok with the 75.

I have a 6.5 twist .223 for 90 grain boattails and it does work. I have not shot it with anything lighter than 75 grains and see no reason why I should.

xcalibor67 · January 27, 2015, 04:25 PM

http://www.saami.org/PubResources/CC...n%20Magnum.pdf

xcalibor67 · January 27, 2015, 04:35 PM

sorry about the sizing, my pc skills are bad..Above pic is specs of a 222mag. case and chamber.Looking at the bottom pic, chamber, I see the words "Head Space Dimension" @ .200. Would this be the measurement of the amount of case sticking out of the chamber? The issue is, when re-chambering a savage barrel, how deep should I ream? Have read that some merely measure from the bolt face to the tip of bolt and add 8/10k, and that should be the measurement of the case protruding out of the chamber. I checked my bolt, and it mic's @ about .150, add the 8k to make it .158. This still does not add up to the .200 I see listed in pic, as being "Head space dimension"

xcalibor67 · January 27, 2015, 04:44 PM

I guess what im asking is...Exactly how deep to ream the chamber. I fully understand the concept of the savage barrel using the nut. But even so, the barrel has to be completely finished,reamed to proper depth before screwing in the barrel to set head space. Here's an exaggerated "for instance"...
I can merely ream the barrel 3/4 of what it should be, install the barrel, screw the barrel way out of the receiver, and still achieve "Proper head space" with No-Go gauge..even with half the case sticking out of the chamber being unsupported....

Jim Watson · January 27, 2015, 08:42 PM

I cannot call up your drawing and cannot find those words on mine.
All I see is "(circle)X= Headspace Dimension."
The only place I have .200" is the distance forward of the bolt face at which rear chamber diameter is specified.

Sorry, I am not a gunsmith and am not qualified to tell you how to rechamber a barrel on the internet.

Scorch · January 28, 2015, 03:37 AM

Quote:

Sorry, I am not a gunsmith and am not qualified to tell you how to rechamber a barrel on the internet

Well, I am a gunsmith, but I generally do not tell people how to do gun work (especially something that can blow them up) due to the lack of knowledge of their level of proficiency.

xcalibor67 · January 28, 2015, 04:01 AM

I have rebarreled many a mauser, and others where the barrel merely screws into the action and seats anywhere from barely over hand tight to a couple ks crush fit. Simple, I merely finish reaming in a lathe until Proper head clearance is achieved using Go, No-Go gauges.. As far as understanding what needs to be the end result is nothing new to me. But with the savages, and any other barrel that uses a nut to adjust head clearance, There has to be a way to properly ream the barrel to the correct depth, before installing on the action, to set head clearance. Sure I can ream it to what I think is the right depth, or measure the depth between the bolt tip and the bolt face(hence the remmy 722) and come up with a "Close guess..But there again if any mods have been made to bolt tip etc, it will change these readings..Someone where had mentioned replacing the bolt if I felt it had been shaved, not sure how that would help, or even give me answer..as over the last hundred yrs, bolt tips, faces etc have been re surfaced changed due to extractors etc..It doesn't matter..Even shaved you can still achieve the correct head space, as long as you have the proper amount of case supported in the chamber. If I took a Go gauge and put it in the chamber of a barrel, surely there is a Number somewhere that dictates how much should be in the chamber, and how much should protrude out of the chamber, if not it seems you would be guessing as to how much case is supported.

xcalibor67 · January 28, 2015, 04:09 AM

@ Jim, sorry about that, the .200 was in fact what I was looking at, but your right it doesn't say :Head space" on that number, im old and getting blind..The .200 @ 1st looked like the "Number" I was hunting, but it turned out to be .200 from bolt face to the depth in the chamber where the diameter was @ a specified point in the chamber..I foolishly thought the .200 was from bolt face to end of breech, which would have in fact given me what I wanted, iof it had been stated that way.

January 24, 2015, 02:10 PM	#1
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	Rechambering the 223 Here again I always have to be the oddball . Found 100k posts on converting a 222 to a 223, but cant find any info on converting a 223 to a 222 Magnum. Before we get into the "Why" aspect, lemme say I reload and have about 5k new 222mag. cases on hand..And besides, everyone and his brother has the 223, im old, I like old things,lol. From what I can find on case specs. the triple deuce mag. reamer should clean up nicely in the 223 chamber. Anyone having some for sure knowledge, please advise. Thanks.

January 25, 2015, 12:09 AM	#4
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	You rang? Yes, unless the 223 chamber is sloppy, you will completely clean up the 223 chamber with a 222 Mag reamer. It works because, although the shoulders are nearly the same size, the 222 Mag case body is less tapered and the shoulder is .030" farther forward, so the 222 Mag will clean up a 223 chamber completely. I would not worry about it at all. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

January 27, 2015, 04:25 PM	#7
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	http://www.saami.org/PubResources/CC...n%20Magnum.pdf Last edited by xcalibor67; January 27, 2015 at 04:54 PM.

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January 24, 2015, 02:26 PM	#2
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,535	I don't KNOW but can caution that the chamber dimensions aft of the shoulder are very similar. A perfect .222 Mag reamer should clean up a perfect .223 chamber. A little mismatch, still within tolerance limits, might leave a ring in the chamber. Where is Scorch when you need him?

January 24, 2015, 03:36 PM	#3
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	Understand...I wonder if facing the barrel say, 20kths before io start reaming will help any? Im like you, I feel sure it will work, but the finished chamber will be determined by how closely my reamer runs with the existing chamber..Now to decide if I should finish it by hand, or chuck it in a lathe..Thanks for the reply.

January 25, 2015, 02:32 PM	#5
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	Thanks Scorch, The answer I was looking for. The barrel I use will most likely be a brand new Criterion SS... Off topic, but instead of starting a new thread, may I ask suggestions on twist rate? Seems now, a lot the latest & greatest rifle makers are going to the 1/9 or faster twist. Considering Remington choose the 1/14 or 1/12 for umpteen yrs, would this mean surely the faster twist is better? I will be using 45/55 gr flat base bullets. I looked @ Midway usa and was surprised to find they now offer a 90gr 22 cal. bullet...Berger maybe?. Either way I was dumb founded. I have never shot any 22's in that weight range, but would think you would sacrifice a lot of FPS to keep pressures in spec? Meh thinks i'll keep my rifle @ what it was originally intended for, lighter HV(for the day) loads.Hell, if wanted a 90 gr pill I will drag out the 6mm, 260 rem. or something else..

January 25, 2015, 04:03 PM	#6
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,535	A faster twist will not buy you anything IF you shoot the 50-55 grain flatbase spitzers the caliber was originally loaded with. A 9 twist will set you up for 68, maybe 75 grain bullets and still do ok with the 75. I have a 6.5 twist .223 for 90 grain boattails and it does work. I have not shot it with anything lighter than 75 grains and see no reason why I should.

January 27, 2015, 04:35 PM	#8
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	sorry about the sizing, my pc skills are bad..Above pic is specs of a 222mag. case and chamber.Looking at the bottom pic, chamber, I see the words "Head Space Dimension" @ .200. Would this be the measurement of the amount of case sticking out of the chamber? The issue is, when re-chambering a savage barrel, how deep should I ream? Have read that some merely measure from the bolt face to the tip of bolt and add 8/10k, and that should be the measurement of the case protruding out of the chamber. I checked my bolt, and it mic's @ about .150, add the 8k to make it .158. This still does not add up to the .200 I see listed in pic, as being "Head space dimension"

January 27, 2015, 04:44 PM	#9
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	I guess what im asking is...Exactly how deep to ream the chamber. I fully understand the concept of the savage barrel using the nut. But even so, the barrel has to be completely finished,reamed to proper depth before screwing in the barrel to set head space. Here's an exaggerated "for instance"... I can merely ream the barrel 3/4 of what it should be, install the barrel, screw the barrel way out of the receiver, and still achieve "Proper head space" with No-Go gauge..even with half the case sticking out of the chamber being unsupported....

January 27, 2015, 08:42 PM	#10
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,535	I cannot call up your drawing and cannot find those words on mine. All I see is "(circle)X= Headspace Dimension." The only place I have .200" is the distance forward of the bolt face at which rear chamber diameter is specified. Sorry, I am not a gunsmith and am not qualified to tell you how to rechamber a barrel on the internet.

January 28, 2015, 04:01 AM	#12
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	I have rebarreled many a mauser, and others where the barrel merely screws into the action and seats anywhere from barely over hand tight to a couple ks crush fit. Simple, I merely finish reaming in a lathe until Proper head clearance is achieved using Go, No-Go gauges.. As far as understanding what needs to be the end result is nothing new to me. But with the savages, and any other barrel that uses a nut to adjust head clearance, There has to be a way to properly ream the barrel to the correct depth, before installing on the action, to set head clearance. Sure I can ream it to what I think is the right depth, or measure the depth between the bolt tip and the bolt face(hence the remmy 722) and come up with a "Close guess..But there again if any mods have been made to bolt tip etc, it will change these readings..Someone where had mentioned replacing the bolt if I felt it had been shaved, not sure how that would help, or even give me answer..as over the last hundred yrs, bolt tips, faces etc have been re surfaced changed due to extractors etc..It doesn't matter..Even shaved you can still achieve the correct head space, as long as you have the proper amount of case supported in the chamber. If I took a Go gauge and put it in the chamber of a barrel, surely there is a Number somewhere that dictates how much should be in the chamber, and how much should protrude out of the chamber, if not it seems you would be guessing as to how much case is supported.

January 28, 2015, 04:09 AM	#13
xcalibor67 Member Join Date: November 26, 2012 Posts: 23	@ Jim, sorry about that, the .200 was in fact what I was looking at, but your right it doesn't say :Head space" on that number, im old and getting blind..The .200 @ 1st looked like the "Number" I was hunting, but it turned out to be .200 from bolt face to the depth in the chamber where the diameter was @ a specified point in the chamber..I foolishly thought the .200 was from bolt face to end of breech, which would have in fact given me what I wanted, iof it had been stated that way.