How can I - unport - my ported barrel?

mcubed4130 · April 9, 2007, 12:31 AM

Here's an interesting question. - ok, I think it's interesting anyway!

As noted above, the slug barrel I use is ported. Anyone have any nifty methods to get rid of this annoyance?

I'm tired of hitting my buddies on either side of me with spray (unless I remember to tell them to backup before I shoot).

Bolt on fake can or something? (mossberg 500 slug barrel - 12 gauge)

Thanks in advance.

-M3

quack fiend · April 9, 2007, 01:44 AM

have it cut off, or buy another barrel

Maser · April 9, 2007, 02:00 AM

Maybe spot weld pieces of sheet metal over the holes? I don't know. Interesting problem.

kozak6 · April 9, 2007, 02:04 AM

Quote:

have it cut off, or buy another barrel

Sounds about right. Just make sure your barrel is still at least 18" long if you chop it.

rog45us · April 9, 2007, 07:07 AM

Try moving your bipod up and cover the hole. Then you can a move it back when you want.

biglabsrule · April 9, 2007, 09:53 AM

well you could either tig/mig weld them closed but... you're going to have to file the inside of the barrel where the penetration occures, plus it will mess up the look totaly,

You could use a flap disk to take of the bead face but it'll never look quite right(factory new), even after rebluing it.

I'd say the only good fix is a new barrel, or hell buy a new gun ;p, can pick up a used wingmaster for 250 in great shape, can't go wrong there ..!!

ConcealCarryNY · April 9, 2007, 10:13 AM

Find a correct size piece of pipe cut in half weld some ears on then run some bolts to clamp it down over the holes. Maybe even blue it to make it look nice.

ebutler462 · April 9, 2007, 10:25 AM

If it was mine I would soft solder the ports closed.

Redneckrepairs · April 9, 2007, 10:43 AM

I am not shure where the ports are on it , but most likely there is a threaded choke tube system out there that would extend back to cover them , just have it reamed and threaded for it and then with a cyllinder choke you have your slug gun , and with others more options open up .

Edited to add never mind lol or use a combo of cut down the tube and then choke it , Someday ill learn to let pics ect.. load before i shoot off my mouth lol .

ConcealCarryNY · April 9, 2007, 10:51 AM

Duct tape

Redneckrepairs · April 9, 2007, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Duct tape

ROFLMAO

The thing is uppon thinking about this , it appears a couple of wraps of duct tape when you go to the range would actualy work and safely . I just cant get the image of a shotty all tricked out with " cowboy chrome " out of my head .. Now ill go see if i can mop the coffee out of the keyboard .

mcubed4130 · April 9, 2007, 11:15 AM

[Eyeballing the duct tape on the table] - not sure if I could bring myself to do that...

So.... Options I think are:

1. Buy a new 24" fully rifled barrel w/cantilever scope mount - but no porting - for a Mossberg 500 12g, from ?!?!?! Personally I've never seen anyone offering this setup, but if exists, I'd certainly consider it. Anyone got a URL?

2. The pipe, or threaded choke tube idea, I would think has some merit, I see a company called "Spikes Tactical" who makes fake cans for AR style rifles... that screw on and cover up the barrel, or extend... obviously in my case covering up the barrel would work well... I think. Anyone seen anything like this for sale for a 12g barrel anywhere?

Since the barrel is for slugs (fully rifled) - I don't want to chop it. I have on occasion moved the bipod barrel rail mount forward, and that does work fine, so I guess I could continue to do that... was just looking for a more finished solution to the problem.

-M3

ebutler462 · April 9, 2007, 12:06 PM

I repeat that the neatest job can be done with either soft or silver solder. I would use regular soft solder instead of silver as it takes a lot of heat to melt silver solder. Much easier to work with.

mcubed4130 · April 9, 2007, 12:18 PM

Quote:

I would use regular soft solder instead of silver as it takes a lot of heat to melt silver solder. Much easier to work with.

Can you toss me a brand of solder you like, and perhaps a URL on how to use it? Or would I be better off just showing up at my local gunsmith, and having them do it? (knowing in advance that soft solder is a good method of dealing with this issue).

-M3

ebutler462 · April 9, 2007, 12:27 PM

This type repair is best done by a gunsmith so that the proper flux is used. He might want to use silver solder. Most gun repairs, including installing polychokes is done with soft solder. Double barreled guns are held together with soft solder. Good stuff. He will not overheat your barrel enough that it loses its strength. Having a gunsmith do it will make for pretty work.

Bill DeShivs · April 9, 2007, 12:57 PM

Soft solder certainly will not cure your problem. It would be blown out on the first shot, as would duct tape.
Properly shortening your barrel will have no effect on shooting slugs. This is your best bet.
Welding the holes closed is not a viable option, either.
Bill

publius · April 10, 2007, 03:59 PM

nothing you do is going to look good except for a new barrel. If you just want to lessen the sound at the range duct tape will work. Friend of mine bought a mossy 835 when they first came out and brought it into my duck blind. Damn thing killed us with the noise. Told him he couldn't bring it back unless he found a way to cover the ports. The duct tape worked.

liliysdad · April 10, 2007, 06:47 PM

If you cut and crown the barrel, it may actually shoot better than it does now. The shorter barrel will be stiffer, and thus, theoretically, more prone to accuracy. I would also move the bipod to the mag tube if it were mine.

Another good trick to improve slug accuracy is to drill and tap for a 8-40 screw in the front of the receiver, through the barrel, thus improving the lockup. I have seen this mod decrease groups by 40% by itself.

Fat White Boy · April 10, 2007, 08:38 PM

You can buy a new barrel for under $200...

ebutler462 · April 10, 2007, 10:31 PM

Or you can get a gunsmith to silver solder it for much less. It seems that some post belittle soft solder so try silver solder. I used regular solder to close the ports in my Condor Supreme. Still shooting it. This gun may have different ports than mine so only a gunsmith can really tell. Don't take my word. Get a professional opinion. I don't want to be responsible for it.

Rangefinder · April 10, 2007, 11:13 PM

Solder is NOT an option. Soldering is an adhesive bond--in other words, "metal glue", and a shotgun barrel is way too thin to provide any amount of surface for the solder to get a solid grip on. Once the adhesion gives out, the pressure will blow the solder plugs to who-knows-where at dangerous velocities. Don't even think about it.

mcubed4130 · April 11, 2007, 12:51 AM

I have noted many people mentioned just buying a new barrel.

Does anyone have a weblink to someone who makes a fully rifled slug barrel w/cantilever scope mount - for the Mossberg 500?

-M3

Hkmp5sd · April 11, 2007, 01:32 AM

Put a hose clamp over it.

Or buy a new barrel, as previously suggested.

Bill DeShivs · April 11, 2007, 01:53 AM

Unless shortening the barrel will take the length below 18", this is the only sensible route. You gain nothing by keeping the length, and shortening is inexpensive.
Bill

BillCA · April 11, 2007, 02:20 AM

Quote:

Does anyone have a weblink to someone who makes a fully rifled slug barrel w/cantilever scope mount - for the Mossberg 500?

You just aren't looking hard enough...

Checkout Midway USA

Mossberg 500 Barrel 12 Gauge 3" 24" Rifled with Integral Scope Base Ported Blue
Product #: 356256
Manufacturer #: 92056
Our Price: $147.99

They also have a parkerized Mossberg 500 Barrel 12 Gauge 3" 24" Rifled with Integral Scope Base Ported Parkerized

April 9, 2007, 12:31 AM	#1
mcubed4130 Member Join Date: March 17, 2007 Location: Northern P.R.K.-Silicon Valley Posts: 52	How can I - unport - my ported barrel? Here's an interesting question. - ok, I think it's interesting anyway! As noted above, the slug barrel I use is ported. Anyone have any nifty methods to get rid of this annoyance? I'm tired of hitting my buddies on either side of me with spray (unless I remember to tell them to backup before I shoot). Bolt on fake can or something? (mossberg 500 slug barrel - 12 gauge) Thanks in advance. -M3

April 9, 2007, 07:07 AM	#5
rog45us Member Join Date: October 25, 2006 Location: MO Posts: 26	Hope this help Try moving your bipod up and cover the hole. Then you can a move it back when you want.

April 9, 2007, 09:53 AM	#6
biglabsrule Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2006 Location: Adirondack Park, upstate NY north of Utica Posts: 385	well you could either tig/mig weld them closed but... you're going to have to file the inside of the barrel where the penetration occures, plus it will mess up the look totaly, You could use a flap disk to take of the bead face but it'll never look quite right(factory new), even after rebluing it. I'd say the only good fix is a new barrel, or hell buy a new gun ;p, can pick up a used wingmaster for 250 in great shape, can't go wrong there ..!! __________________ got me a little lady, the gun buying has come to an end, sigh

April 10, 2007, 11:13 PM	#21
Rangefinder Senior Member Join Date: August 4, 2005 Posts: 2,017	Solder is NOT an option. Soldering is an adhesive bond--in other words, "metal glue", and a shotgun barrel is way too thin to provide any amount of surface for the solder to get a solid grip on. Once the adhesion gives out, the pressure will blow the solder plugs to who-knows-where at dangerous velocities. Don't even think about it. __________________ "Why is is called Common Sense when it seems so few actually possess it?" Guns only have two enemies: Rust and Politicians.

April 11, 2007, 01:32 AM	#23
Hkmp5sd Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2001 Location: Winter Haven, Florida Posts: 4,303	Put a hose clamp over it. Or buy a new barrel, as previously suggested. __________________ NRA Certified Instructor: Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Home Safety, Personal Protection, Range Safety Officer NRA Life Member

April 9, 2007, 01:44 AM	#2
quack fiend Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2005 Location: liberty, ms Posts: 268	have it cut off, or buy another barrel

April 9, 2007, 02:00 AM	#3
Maser Senior Member Join Date: May 21, 2006 Location: Mysterious Cities of Gold Posts: 920	Maybe spot weld pieces of sheet metal over the holes? I don't know. Interesting problem.

April 9, 2007, 10:13 AM	#7
ConcealCarryNY Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Location: Owego, N.Y. Posts: 218	Find a correct size piece of pipe cut in half weld some ears on then run some bolts to clamp it down over the holes. Maybe even blue it to make it look nice.

April 9, 2007, 10:25 AM	#8
ebutler462 Senior Member Join Date: March 16, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 437	If it was mine I would soft solder the ports closed.

April 9, 2007, 10:43 AM	#9
Redneckrepairs Senior Member Join Date: March 9, 2006 Posts: 666	I am not shure where the ports are on it , but most likely there is a threaded choke tube system out there that would extend back to cover them , just have it reamed and threaded for it and then with a cyllinder choke you have your slug gun , and with others more options open up . Edited to add never mind lol or use a combo of cut down the tube and then choke it , Someday ill learn to let pics ect.. load before i shoot off my mouth lol .

April 9, 2007, 10:51 AM	#10
ConcealCarryNY Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Location: Owego, N.Y. Posts: 218	Duct tape

April 9, 2007, 11:15 AM	#12
mcubed4130 Member Join Date: March 17, 2007 Location: Northern P.R.K.-Silicon Valley Posts: 52	[Eyeballing the duct tape on the table] - not sure if I could bring myself to do that... So.... Options I think are: 1. Buy a new 24" fully rifled barrel w/cantilever scope mount - but no porting - for a Mossberg 500 12g, from ?!?!?! Personally I've never seen anyone offering this setup, but if exists, I'd certainly consider it. Anyone got a URL? 2. The pipe, or threaded choke tube idea, I would think has some merit, I see a company called "Spikes Tactical" who makes fake cans for AR style rifles... that screw on and cover up the barrel, or extend... obviously in my case covering up the barrel would work well... I think. Anyone seen anything like this for sale for a 12g barrel anywhere? Since the barrel is for slugs (fully rifled) - I don't want to chop it. I have on occasion moved the bipod barrel rail mount forward, and that does work fine, so I guess I could continue to do that... was just looking for a more finished solution to the problem. -M3

April 9, 2007, 12:06 PM	#13
ebutler462 Senior Member Join Date: March 16, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 437	I repeat that the neatest job can be done with either soft or silver solder. I would use regular soft solder instead of silver as it takes a lot of heat to melt silver solder. Much easier to work with.

April 9, 2007, 12:27 PM	#15
ebutler462 Senior Member Join Date: March 16, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 437	This type repair is best done by a gunsmith so that the proper flux is used. He might want to use silver solder. Most gun repairs, including installing polychokes is done with soft solder. Double barreled guns are held together with soft solder. Good stuff. He will not overheat your barrel enough that it loses its strength. Having a gunsmith do it will make for pretty work.

April 9, 2007, 12:57 PM	#16
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	Soft solder certainly will not cure your problem. It would be blown out on the first shot, as would duct tape. Properly shortening your barrel will have no effect on shooting slugs. This is your best bet. Welding the holes closed is not a viable option, either. Bill

April 10, 2007, 03:59 PM	#17
publius Senior Member Join Date: January 25, 2005 Location: Mississippi/Texas Posts: 2,505	nothing you do is going to look good except for a new barrel. If you just want to lessen the sound at the range duct tape will work. Friend of mine bought a mossy 835 when they first came out and brought it into my duck blind. Damn thing killed us with the noise. Told him he couldn't bring it back unless he found a way to cover the ports. The duct tape worked.

April 10, 2007, 06:47 PM	#18
liliysdad Senior Member Join Date: June 7, 2004 Posts: 1,145	If you cut and crown the barrel, it may actually shoot better than it does now. The shorter barrel will be stiffer, and thus, theoretically, more prone to accuracy. I would also move the bipod to the mag tube if it were mine. Another good trick to improve slug accuracy is to drill and tap for a 8-40 screw in the front of the receiver, through the barrel, thus improving the lockup. I have seen this mod decrease groups by 40% by itself.

April 10, 2007, 08:38 PM	#19
Fat White Boy Senior Member Join Date: March 18, 2005 Posts: 1,276	You can buy a new barrel for under $200...

April 10, 2007, 10:31 PM	#20
ebutler462 Senior Member Join Date: March 16, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 437	Or you can get a gunsmith to silver solder it for much less. It seems that some post belittle soft solder so try silver solder. I used regular solder to close the ports in my Condor Supreme. Still shooting it. This gun may have different ports than mine so only a gunsmith can really tell. Don't take my word. Get a professional opinion. I don't want to be responsible for it.

April 11, 2007, 12:51 AM	#22
mcubed4130 Member Join Date: March 17, 2007 Location: Northern P.R.K.-Silicon Valley Posts: 52	I have noted many people mentioned just buying a new barrel. Does anyone have a weblink to someone who makes a fully rifled slug barrel w/cantilever scope mount - for the Mossberg 500? -M3

April 11, 2007, 01:53 AM	#24
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	Unless shortening the barrel will take the length below 18", this is the only sensible route. You gain nothing by keeping the length, and shortening is inexpensive. Bill