PICTURE> Where would you crimp

tonyz · August 12, 2001, 08:50 AM

The picture is of a copper plated 148Gr Wad Cutter. Where would you crimp, in the cannelure or seat the bullet flush with the case.

Thanks
Tony

DAVID NANCARROW · August 12, 2001, 09:04 AM

Can't see the picture, Tonyz

snuffy · August 12, 2001, 10:16 AM

On what pistol or wheelgun you're going to fire it in. In a revolver it won't make much difference, a semi auto can be fussy for feeding if the lead is left sticking out, has to have a heavy crimp over the first driving band to feed.

griz · August 12, 2001, 10:55 AM

The factory wadcutters I have seen are crimped over the forward part of the bullet, not in a groove. So that's what I do when I load wadcutters, but I haven't given it much thought. Actually I don't see why the the groove would be a problem if you wanted longer length.

tonyz · August 12, 2001, 10:56 AM

I shoot revolvers. This type of bullet is one of my favorite. I usually shoot barry's WC's or Rainer WC's. They are the same on both ends flat with no cannelure no groves at all. I seat them flush with the case. They give me the most accurate load I have yet to try.I use 3.5Gr of U.Clays under the 148gr WC.

Thanks,
Tony

Southla1 · August 12, 2001, 08:20 PM

I am like the others here. If it would be shot out of my revolvers it is crimped on the front groove. If it will be shot in my S&W Mod. 52 it is going to have to be seated way down in the case where that lil point is flush with the case or seated upside down. That is the only way they will fit in the magazine.

labgrade · August 12, 2001, 10:30 PM

Revolver guy here. I'd crimp this one right at your left-most "crimp" line as indicated in photo. Make the crimp roll right over the bullet radius at that same spot - not into the bullet, but just over/right at it & leave the truncated cone sticking out of the case. 'Course, as mention, you could shoot this one "backwards."

Don't "get" why this one has such a leading profile, as all WCs shoot just fine as a straight cylinder. Nothing the matter with whatever floats a boat, just "curious" is all.

Curious as to what you're paying for these. Speer/Hornady have WC/HBWCs at ~$7/250 - bulk, light-lubed, swagged lead that will shoot the eyes outa flies at 25 yds.

MADISON · August 12, 2001, 11:06 PM

Crimp it over the nose.

WESHOOT2 · August 13, 2001, 05:50 AM

How about trying different places?

tonyz · August 13, 2001, 08:26 AM

WESHOOT2: That is what I am trying now. yesterday I loaded up both types, crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case.
Then headed to the range. With my Ruger Security Six, 6" Barrel I could not tell any differance. They were pretty darn accurate. Need to work with my powder load.
If I get a chance I will load some backwards and try them today.

Labgrade: This bullets were made by Hardcast Bullet Co. Out of Lancaster,Ca.
There is about .004-.005 of an inch of copper plateing. Also they are cast. Cost is $34.00 per 1000 for copper plated and $26.00 for lead cast.

Thanks All

TonyZ

Keep the advise comming!!

The specialist · August 14, 2001, 05:31 PM

I never worried about the groove, I just went by OAL, and let that dictate where it is crimped.

tonyz · August 17, 2001, 08:42 AM

I have expermented crimping at all three location mentioned, with the drimp at the Crimp Grove, Crimped with the bullet flush with the case, and loaded backwards flush with the case.
At first I thought that there was no real differance between the bullets crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case. But after loading up some backwards
and rechecking the accuracy of all three differant crimps, There is a differance.The best group I got was with the Crimp at the crimp grove.

Has anyone seen or use this type of mold?
Or know about the bullet type. Why three lube groves a cannelure and a nib on the end?

Thanks,
Tony

tonyz · August 20, 2001, 08:43 AM

Don

Yes it does look just like #50, only one thing, They say #50 is 146 Gr. All the one's I have weigh 149.5. I assume this could be due to the compounding of the lead.

Thanks,

Tony Z

frontlander · August 23, 2001, 06:54 AM

The difference in weight is probably due to the copper plating. If it were my ammo I would lightly crimp in the crimp groove. Just enough crimp to knock down the belling of the case mouth and allow easy chambering. This is assuming you have the proper case tension on the bullet. I seem to get the best accuracy in my .38s/.357s when I use this method.

tonyz · August 23, 2001, 08:38 AM

I am crimping at the crimp grove now but have been using a medium crimp with a Redding profile die.
I think I will use your advice, and just lightly crimp as you stated, just enough to remove the bell. Yes I have proper case tension.

Thanks for the info

Tony Z

August 12, 2001, 08:50 AM	#1
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	PICTURE> Where would you crimp The picture is of a copper plated 148Gr Wad Cutter. Where would you crimp, in the cannelure or seat the bullet flush with the case. Thanks Tony Last edited by tonyz; August 12, 2001 at 09:50 AM.

August 12, 2001, 10:16 AM	#3
snuffy Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2001 Location: Oshkosh wi. Posts: 3,055	it depends On what pistol or wheelgun you're going to fire it in. In a revolver it won't make much difference, a semi auto can be fussy for feeding if the lead is left sticking out, has to have a heavy crimp over the first driving band to feed. __________________ The more people I meet, the more I love my dog They're going to get their butts kicked over there this election. How come people can't spell and use words correctly?

August 12, 2001, 11:06 PM	#8
MADISON Senior Member Join Date: January 1, 2000 Location: Roanoke, Virginia Posts: 2,678	Crimp Crimp it over the nose.

August 13, 2001, 05:50 AM	#9
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	How about trying different places? __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

August 14, 2001, 05:31 PM	#11
The specialist Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2000 Location: boston,MA,USA Posts: 237	I never worried about the groove, I just went by OAL, and let that dictate where it is crimped. __________________ "A true craftsman takes pride in his work"

August 12, 2001, 09:04 AM	#2
DAVID NANCARROW Senior Member Join Date: November 5, 2000 Location: Wyoming Posts: 1,761	Can't see the picture, Tonyz

August 12, 2001, 10:55 AM	#4
griz Senior Member Join Date: July 31, 2000 Location: Middle Peninsula, VA Posts: 1,588	The factory wadcutters I have seen are crimped over the forward part of the bullet, not in a groove. So that's what I do when I load wadcutters, but I haven't given it much thought. Actually I don't see why the the groove would be a problem if you wanted longer length.

August 12, 2001, 10:56 AM	#5
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	Snuffy I shoot revolvers. This type of bullet is one of my favorite. I usually shoot barry's WC's or Rainer WC's. They are the same on both ends flat with no cannelure no groves at all. I seat them flush with the case. They give me the most accurate load I have yet to try.I use 3.5Gr of U.Clays under the 148gr WC. Thanks, Tony __________________ Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained Last edited by tonyz; August 13, 2001 at 08:10 AM.

August 12, 2001, 08:20 PM	#6
Southla1 Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 19, 2000 Location: Jeanerette, La. Near the Posts: 1,999	I am like the others here. If it would be shot out of my revolvers it is crimped on the front groove. If it will be shot in my S&W Mod. 52 it is going to have to be seated way down in the case where that lil point is flush with the case or seated upside down. That is the only way they will fit in the magazine.

August 12, 2001, 10:30 PM	#7
labgrade Member In Memoriam Join Date: November 29, 1999 Location: west of a small town, CO Posts: 4,346	Revolver guy here. I'd crimp this one right at your left-most "crimp" line as indicated in photo. Make the crimp roll right over the bullet radius at that same spot - not into the bullet, but just over/right at it & leave the truncated cone sticking out of the case. 'Course, as mention, you could shoot this one "backwards." Don't "get" why this one has such a leading profile, as all WCs shoot just fine as a straight cylinder. Nothing the matter with whatever floats a boat, just "curious" is all. Curious as to what you're paying for these. Speer/Hornady have WC/HBWCs at ~$7/250 - bulk, light-lubed, swagged lead that will shoot the eyes outa flies at 25 yds.

August 13, 2001, 08:26 AM	#10
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	WESHOOT2: That is what I am trying now. yesterday I loaded up both types, crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case. Then headed to the range. With my Ruger Security Six, 6" Barrel I could not tell any differance. They were pretty darn accurate. Need to work with my powder load. If I get a chance I will load some backwards and try them today. Labgrade: This bullets were made by Hardcast Bullet Co. Out of Lancaster,Ca. There is about .004-.005 of an inch of copper plateing. Also they are cast. Cost is $34.00 per 1000 for copper plated and $26.00 for lead cast. Thanks All TonyZ Keep the advise comming!!

August 17, 2001, 08:42 AM	#12
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	Update I have expermented crimping at all three location mentioned, with the drimp at the Crimp Grove, Crimped with the bullet flush with the case, and loaded backwards flush with the case. At first I thought that there was no real differance between the bullets crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case. But after loading up some backwards and rechecking the accuracy of all three differant crimps, There is a differance.The best group I got was with the Crimp at the crimp grove. Has anyone seen or use this type of mold? Or know about the bullet type. Why three lube groves a cannelure and a nib on the end? Thanks, Tony

August 20, 2001, 08:43 AM	#13
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	Don Yes it does look just like #50, only one thing, They say #50 is 146 Gr. All the one's I have weigh 149.5. I assume this could be due to the compounding of the lead. Thanks, Tony Z __________________ Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

August 23, 2001, 06:54 AM	#14
frontlander Senior Member Join Date: November 28, 2000 Posts: 101	The difference in weight is probably due to the copper plating. If it were my ammo I would lightly crimp in the crimp groove. Just enough crimp to knock down the belling of the case mouth and allow easy chambering. This is assuming you have the proper case tension on the bullet. I seem to get the best accuracy in my .38s/.357s when I use this method.

August 23, 2001, 08:38 AM	#15
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	frontlander I am crimping at the crimp grove now but have been using a medium crimp with a Redding profile die. I think I will use your advice, and just lightly crimp as you stated, just enough to remove the bell. Yes I have proper case tension. Thanks for the info Tony Z

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