Not sure what i should do here.

[CK_32]

I'm not too sure on what to do here. I went to my gun store to pick up the cleaning supplies for my new rifle (Rem 700SPS TAC .308) and I did some research and asked around a bit for what I should get and yatta yatta. So I made a list and went down there and they had half of what I was looking for and I kind of got jumbled.

List:
Cleaning rod plastic coated
Bronze jig/Brush
Bore guide
Kroil Oil or Witches Brew
Barns CR-10
Shooters choice or Something like it.
Patches
Bolt Lube.

Problem is only things I ended up getting was:
Pro shot brand for $48.95 (not sure about that price) bronze jig and brush adapter came with it. maybe that makes it worth $40 idk! lol you tell me
Bronze Brush.
Barns Cr10
Hoppes #9
And the patches.

Thing is I talked to my cousin who has been dealing with fire arms way longer than I have and he said that's all ill need and some WD 40 and some lube for the moving parts.. I don't know half of what he does and kind of figured ok go with it. but then again he skimps on just about everything haha


So I was wondering:
1: did I pay too much for the cleaning rod lol I was expecting $30 tops
2: Can I really be fine with cleaning out my barrel with just CR-10 and put WD 40 down the barrel after cleaning for storage.
I feel pretty dumb asking these questions but this is my first precision rifle and I really want to keep it as mint and do everything right so it works in the field to its full potential. Or am I fine with what I have and can be done with it.
3: Could i use the hopps #9 to lube my bolt and barrel?

[Straightshooter629]

Hoppes #9 is a solvent/cleaner and not a lubricant. For final lube, I suggest "Rem-oil" or similar product. Breakfree CLP is a good combination cleaner/lubricant, depending on how dirty the gun is. One extra tip...buy your cleaning supplies from a big box retailer such as Wal-Mart or K-mart. You'll get the same products and you won't pay "gun store" prices. Also, gun shows are an excellent source for buying cleaning and maintenance supplies...just my opinion. WD-40 is a good product but it can get a little pricey when using it for gun maintenance, but it's your money.

[Uncle Buck]

WD-40 is not a lubricant. The WD stands for water displacement. It is good for cleaning gunk and getting water out of were it does not belong, but it is not a lubricant.

It sounds like you have a lot of money tied up in this gun. Use a good quality oil like the rem-oil or break free. If you have to go on the cheap, most automotive stores will have a good quality lubricant.

I can not offer an opinion on the cleaning kits, as I have about 100 around here. They come from friends, relatives and junk boxes at auctions and make my own patches from old tee shirts and things obtained from Auntie Bucks' sewing room. (Note: When appropriating items from the significant other, admit nothing, demand proof and say nothing with-out a lawyer present. )

[CK_32]

Haha alright thanks guys. Yea i figured the shop would have a few guys who would be able to tell me what id need and want to get but they pretty much just read what ever was on the lable and said oh yea thats it haha

But again i kinda understand everyone needs a job and a job is a job. But i was kinda depressed when I figured I was pretty much on my own and you all see how it turned out haha but thanks yea ill probalbly just return everything and hit up a gun show or a walmart.

Thanks again.

Also if anyone has a good cleaning list parts/lubes/cleaners ect. LMK
Really interested in skiping the tial and error to figure out what works and what doesnt and whats just the wrong product for what im looking to do

[sholling]

Basically all you need is:

• A good quality cleaning rod. I like Tipton ($25-35) the best but Dewey are very good as well.
• A good jag the right size.
• A good bronze brush.
• A bore guide to protect the barrel. I prefer Lucas, just Google Lucas Bore Guide.
• A good bore cleaner. I like MPro7 Bore Gel because it doesn't stink, but Hoppes will do.
• A good CLP to lube your weapon and protect it from rust. I like Break Free CLP.
• A bag of patches.

You can get it all (except the Lucas Bore Guide) from MidwayUSA.

[youp]

Do the Walmart thing. It is good for America. It helps to keep jobs in America. Then someday you will want some good solid advice from a real person, not someone hidiing behind a nom de plum on a forum. Then that small store front will probably be selling ****.

IMO small shops really do want and need your buisiness to suvive. Very few will jepodize your future buisiness by trying to over sell you. You will pay more than the W place charges. The knowledge available at small shops cannot be found at any W mart.

[sholling]

IMO small shops really do want and need your buisiness to suvive. Very few will jepodize your future buisiness by trying to over sell you. You will pay more than the W place charges. The knowledge available at small shops cannot be found at any W mart.

The problem with your logic is that the employees in maybe 1 in 20 small shops has any more knowledge than a Walmart employee. Most just want to sell you their Deeeelux $40 one size fits all kit.

[CK_32]

Thanks sholling.

I actually walked down to the shop down the street from them and actually everything was a good 30-50% less on all cleaning supplies. So im ganna take it all back and go pick it up at the other shot and probably save about $50.

And the CLP.. When and where do you apply it?

The guy at the other shop actually seemed more knowledgeable and said i should get a shoe string type pull instead of a cleaning rod and said CR-10 and Hoppes #9 would be all i needed. And what about CR-10? What about the copper fouling and stuff to clean out the barrel? Does the CLP or hoppes do what CR10 does?
The shop guy said a bottle of hoppes and CR10 would be fine with some Hoppes #9 lube.

Also would you recommend hoppes #9 lube for the bolt and moving parts or the Remington oil spray?

[CarterMccoy]

One piece rod (Plastic or not, no one knows whats best).
Dewey delux jag, plated to resist wear from solvents.
brushes - they are all good, nylon does not work as well for some reason.
Solvents:
Milpro7 or Hoppes elite - they are the same compound.
Sweets7.62 for copper.
Butches triple twill patches.
Bore guide
Rem oil or FP 10 from shooter's choice

A good mat to clean on.
Screwdrivers that FIT the screws, so you can disassemble the gun and clean where the dirt hides without marring the screw heads - VERY IMPORTANT.

Plenty of good rags - Socks cut in half and turned inside out will clean a brush like nobody's business - clena the brush everytime you use it, same with the rod - rods attract the sludge like you wont believe. Wipe the rod with a white cloth to see how much is on it after a few passes.

Time to do it right everytime you sit down to do it. Work till its CLEAN, then oil it.

[CarterMccoy]

I buy from Midway USA.
They have everything you need and are easy to do business with.
Make a good list before you place the order - they sell anything you need, so be through to save on shipping.

[CarterMccoy]

shoe string type pull instead of a cleaning rod

What do the pros use? NOT THAT.
Get a good rod, the bore snake is a crutch, and not a real good way to clean your prized gun.

[sholling]

And the CLP.. When and where do you apply it?

Put a light coat on all of the metal bits and lightly wipe it dry. In fact I usually just put a bit on a bit of old t-shirt and wipe it down leaving a very very light film. If storing it for a while put a little on a patch and run it through then follow with a dry patch.

said i should get a shoe string type pull instead of a cleaning rod

Those are for a light cleaning at the range and not for a good cleaning. Get a good carbon fiber or plastic coated one piece rod and clean from the breach using a bore guide to keep from messing up the rifling. Like I said before MidwayUSA for the rod (Tipton or Dewey, Tipton is easier to find brushes and jags for) and either MidwayUSA or Lucas for the bore guide. You'll need a rod about a foot longer than the barrel to make up for the length of the bore guide.

CR-10 and Hoppes #9 would be all i needed.

I've never used CR10. Hoppes #9 is a good bore cleaner. I just use MPro7 because I clean in the house and it smells better. Either will do the job.

Also would you recommend hoppes #9 lube for the bolt and moving parts or the Remington oil spray?

Rem Oil is a good CLP.

This video will show you how it's done.

[grubbylabs]

How do you all use your solvent? I always have use an extra container to keep the crap out of it and end up tossing some other wise good solvent.

[CK_32]

Ok so i took all that stuff back and went to midway USA.com all last night
and this is my new list thanks to you guys so LMK what you think.

So LMK if I should change anything for somthing else or if im missing anything.

• Dewey 1-Piece Cleaning Rod 27 to 34 Caliber 24" Nylon Coated 12 x 28 Male Thread $30
  
• Dewey "No Harm" Bench Rest Style Rifle Bore Brush 30 Caliber 8 x 32 Thread Bronze $3
  
• Possum Hollow Bore Guide #5 $18
  
• Remington Rem Oil Gun Oil 10 oz Aerosol $5
  
• Tipton Truly Remarkable Bore Cleaning Solvent 5 oz Liquid $10
  
• Hoppe's #9 Bore Cleaning Solvent 4 oz Liquid $4
  
• Southern Bloomer Cleaning Patches 30 Caliber Square Knit Cotton Package of 1000 $26
  
• A-ZOOM Action Proving Dummy, Snap Cap 308 Winchester Aluminum Package of 2 $7

So thats my new list. So please tell me if I have anything wrong or should get somthing else instead
of what i have on the list.

Again I have a Rem700 SPS tac in .308 so if something isnt going to fit or anything LMK please cause
im planning on getting this order done tonight.

Also the tipton truly remarkable and hops #9 in the details say they do the exact same thing. Is there
any reason you should have both?? Idk didnt really get that but in the video it shows he uses both.

So if i should use somthing different of this list is just fine LMK. Hopefully by tonight.
Thanks for all your input again.

[sholling]

That's a good list and you're on the right track we just have to make a couple of adjustments.

1. Is a 24" rod long enough to go from the end of the bore guide and still reach the end of the barrel? Probably not. Figure 6-10" for the bore guide.
2. How are you going to attach the 8 x 32 threaded brush to the 12 x 28 male thread on the rod? Also are both male or is one female? That's why I prefer Tipton. Tiptons usually don't need adapters - but Deweys are great rods.
3. You'll need a jag to push the patches and it needs to fit the rod.
4. I prefer liquid over spray oil but that's personal taste.

[CK_32]

Yea I thought about that too. Idk why they would make it male and not
all just compatable with each other I thought that was really stupid.
And you really think i need longer.. I got a 36" and the guys thought I
was crazy haha

and do they make remington oil in liquid or paste? I kinda prefer liquid myself
but i wasnt sure if they made it that way all I found was the spray.
But thats ill post up the new things i fix in a min. And ill see what you think.

[sholling]

I can't give you a number on the rod length. Watch the video again. You'll see that the rod has to be long enough to reach all the way through the bore guide and then reach the end of the barrel. That's 6-10" (depending on the guide) longer than the barrel.

I'd get the Rem Oil and Hoppes at Walmart and save on shipping.

[CK_32]

Ok so I went with a tipton 40" and the brronze cleaner wont get to
the bronze brush? Should i get a nylon or is it fine? And also dont the
rods come with jags? What are in those baggies with them then?

[CarterMccoy]

I never heard of possum or of the patches you bought, Butches triple twill seem to be really good but you'll find what you like as you go.
I'd recommend getting some Sweets 7.62 copper cleaner. it stinks to holy He__, but it will verify all the copper is out by NOT turning blue when you apply it. Then you know your copper free.

Enjoy your rifle, and just read what is available on line when you get free time.
Here is a good site to get some quality info on what ever you like:
http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm

Also, you can type in what ever question you have into Google and search the results. After enough time spend on reading the opinions (that'll be about 20 years or so - take coated or uncoated rods for example...NO ONE knows which is better or why...really) you'll see trends and a common thread to what is true and what is some dime store gun wanna be talk shizzle....

ENJOY IT MAN, ITS A TRIP TO SHOOT ONE HOLE WITH 5 ROUNDS!

[CK_32]

Yea iv been downloading AGI videos all week and pretty much know this thing
inside and out now (so i think haha ) But yea i just send my order in probably about 2 min before you posted that so I guess well see how it all does. I figured id wait out on the jigs and brush cause i was too confused on male/female in the kind I needed because some didnt specify thread size or male/female type so i figured id rather just go to the store and see it for my self instead of guess.

But again thank all of you for your input and help. Idk what id do with out good ol forums to get me out of jams

[waterfowler]

WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40(water displacement) protects from water. Eventually it will evaporate and give you no protection. It is okay if you shoot every week. For storage, you should lightly oil with any kind of gun oil. I preferably would use hoppes. Bass pro has very nice kits for under $40.

[James R. Burke]

I have a couple of rods. A couple of them I keep the brushes on for the most used ones, and then I have one with the cleaning jag on. There not real high priced or cheap just middle of the road. Save alot of time switching things around. I mostly use Butchs bore shine for the bore, then dry it, and use a good coat of Rem oil in it. I wipe the whole gun down with the rem oil, somethimes I will use a special lubricate on the action depending on what it is but not that much. Mainly Butchs for the bore, and Rem oil for the bore, and rest of it. Keep the finger prints off the metal thats real important you really dont need a truck load of stuff just keep it clean. Before I use them to hunt with I go out with what I will be using and practice quite alot. Then I take it home and clean it real good bore, and everything. I go out with it one more time closer to season to make a few fouling shots and double check it. Then I dont clean the bore till the end of season, unless you end up shooting a ton of ammo thru it again just leave it till your done hunting. Most folks just take three shots or so and call it good if it's on. I believe in practice, it makes you alot more confident which in turn makes you more sure of you, your rifle and shot placement which is key! But thats just me.