Cerokote/Durocoat inside out?

Bill from Boomhower, · July 24, 2012, 04:49 PM

Hey guys, I'm disabled so now all my pretty blued hunting guns are covered in a thick layer of dust in the closet. Yeah, I know, 35 years ago I wouldn't have dreamed of being so neglegent, and disrespectful toward fine firearms which have served me well. I always did hate cleaning guns though, and never have had better than closet storage. Nowadays with things in our world the way they are, I feel vulnerable to attack, limping along, my handicap sticker on my windshield identifying me in the parking lot, lugging my bag of narcotics everywhere I go. I open carry here on my 5 acres, so dirt and grass clippings, yard debris in general has been an issue, along with sweat, and sloppy use of the water hose. My handgun since I bought it new in '88 is a Colt Agent, Parkerized/alloy frame, and it works well. This has been my first and only experience with a Parkerized finish, and I really like it. The pretty blued/walnut guns are great for almost every facet of gun enthusiests, except in a day in, day out by your side defense/home defense tool. (My opinion of course.) I now am considering a Norinco 982 which is a Remington 870 clone. It's advertised as being Parkerized, but I haven't seen one, so I don't know how good the treatment actually is. I've read that these guns are more prone than most to rust because of high tensile steel used in these guns. I only in the last couple of days have stumbled onto these applied finishes that seem perfect for a gun that lives close by, while mending fences in the rain, orgets knocked over in the dirt by the dog, or whatever. Ok, finally, here's my. Question. I know tollerances come into play, but rust/corosion etc. is what I'm thinking here, should I dis-assemble the gun, and spray the bolt, extraction bars, trigger assembly, undersides of bbl, lug, and where it mates to the reciever, or is it customary just to remove stock/forearm, and spray the whole gun intact? I've read several posts and some you-tube stuff on the process, but no one has really said. My concern is for rust/corosion protection, a treatment that would allow me to carry/use every day, and if it gets dropped in the mud, just hosed off and dried in the sun, so to speak. Yeah, I know, but if I hate having to clean guns, I really hate having to baby them around life in the real world. Any body out there ever strip a gun down as much, and spray with one of these treatments? I understand the close tolerances and small intricate parts(trigger assembly), but just want the protection. Is this coating the "Magic Bullet"? Thanks.

Creeper · July 24, 2012, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Ok, finally, here's my. Question. I know tollerances come into play, but rust/corosion etc. is what I'm thinking here, should I dis-assemble the gun, and spray the bolt, extraction bars, trigger assembly, undersides of bbl, lug, and where it mates to the reciever, or is it customary just to remove stock/forearm, and spray the whole gun intact?

I'm kinda lost with your post Bill. Breaking it down into 3-4 paragraphs would have been a bit easier to read... ya' know?

Are you spraying some sort of liquid corrosion inhibitor/lubricant type thing... or are we talking more a DIY "spray 'N bake" coating such as listed in your title?

If it's the later, you'll want to completely disassemble the gun and spray all parts individually... much like spray painting.
If it's just the former... well, I don't know, I've never hosed down an assembled gun before with a spray product. I know some folks swear by the Cylinder & Slide Inc. "Dunk-Kit" product... but that's a different deal altogether.

Cheers,
C

AhChi WaWa · August 9, 2012, 11:31 PM

I've sprayed & oven baked a couple of guns with Brownell's products and found them to hold up very well. You will want to completely disassemble as much as possible because you don't want to 'glue' things together with the 'paint' such as pins, springs, moving parts (like the safety button) etc. Some parts you won't want to coat so mask those off or set them aside. Yu will want to have the barreled action as short as possible to fit into the oven. Bake at 200 for a hour or so ( I found lower heat longer worked better than trying to rush it with higher temp). Also remove any plastic that will melt or warp.

I've also parkerized on the stove top and you want to strip em down completely for that too - sorry but there isn't a short cut to doing it right.

tobnpr · August 11, 2012, 04:01 PM

I've not used Cerakote, but have used Duracoat...

In any case, you definitely do not want to paint "zero" clearance parts- like the bolthead. Adding paint thickness to lugs, or boltface, will change headspace.

Bill DeShivs · August 11, 2012, 04:49 PM

And it wears the paint right off.

sigcurious · August 11, 2012, 05:08 PM

Sturmgehwere's Cerakote discussion

A vid going over cerakote done by one of the forum members. He refinished an AR15, but the information is useful no matter what platform.

Mac's! · August 13, 2012, 01:09 PM

I have no experience with Cerakote so I can't comment on it. I have lots of experience with "the other finish"...removing it to apply a real firearms finish. "The other finish"... aka Polane T by Sherwin Williams...was never intended as a firearms finish and has four things going against it:

First, it's way to thick to use on any close tolerance parts. It will interfere with close tolerance moving parts and it doen't like to "slide" against itself. It balls up and/or peels. Second, it will not burnish. Burnish in this case means that it will not wear into a precision fit. It just balls up and peels if it's subjected to friction under high pressure. Third, the instructions! Any person who applies any kind of finish, whether it's on firearms, cars, houses, etc., will tell you that the preparation work is at least 50% of the overall job. "Degrease and spray it on" will result in a final job that may look ok for a while but it will not be durable. Fourth, the test results. There are none!

As a firearms refinisher, I need to be able to answer questions about the durabilty of the finish under specific climate conditions, adverse chemical exposures, etc. When I asked "them" about chemical exposures, the response was: "Huh? Just try it. You'll love it".

Nope! I never tried it and don't need to, to know that it won't fit the requirments of a real firearms finish. After all, what good does it do to do all of the work for a refinish job if the internals aren't finished and if they are, it won't run long before it starts having issues? I want it to look good and run good and last a long time.

Here's some photo's "their" finish. One set is, in all honesty, not all the fault of the finish.
http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010041.jpg
http://www.shootiniron.com/P2130005.jpg
http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010013.jpg
http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010015.jpg
http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010LLL.jpg
Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com

July 24, 2012, 04:49 PM	#1
Bill from Boomhower, Member Join Date: July 13, 2012 Posts: 20	Cerokote/Durocoat inside out? Hey guys, I'm disabled so now all my pretty blued hunting guns are covered in a thick layer of dust in the closet. Yeah, I know, 35 years ago I wouldn't have dreamed of being so neglegent, and disrespectful toward fine firearms which have served me well. I always did hate cleaning guns though, and never have had better than closet storage. Nowadays with things in our world the way they are, I feel vulnerable to attack, limping along, my handicap sticker on my windshield identifying me in the parking lot, lugging my bag of narcotics everywhere I go. I open carry here on my 5 acres, so dirt and grass clippings, yard debris in general has been an issue, along with sweat, and sloppy use of the water hose. My handgun since I bought it new in '88 is a Colt Agent, Parkerized/alloy frame, and it works well. This has been my first and only experience with a Parkerized finish, and I really like it. The pretty blued/walnut guns are great for almost every facet of gun enthusiests, except in a day in, day out by your side defense/home defense tool. (My opinion of course.) I now am considering a Norinco 982 which is a Remington 870 clone. It's advertised as being Parkerized, but I haven't seen one, so I don't know how good the treatment actually is. I've read that these guns are more prone than most to rust because of high tensile steel used in these guns. I only in the last couple of days have stumbled onto these applied finishes that seem perfect for a gun that lives close by, while mending fences in the rain, orgets knocked over in the dirt by the dog, or whatever. Ok, finally, here's my. Question. I know tollerances come into play, but rust/corosion etc. is what I'm thinking here, should I dis-assemble the gun, and spray the bolt, extraction bars, trigger assembly, undersides of bbl, lug, and where it mates to the reciever, or is it customary just to remove stock/forearm, and spray the whole gun intact? I've read several posts and some you-tube stuff on the process, but no one has really said. My concern is for rust/corosion protection, a treatment that would allow me to carry/use every day, and if it gets dropped in the mud, just hosed off and dried in the sun, so to speak. Yeah, I know, but if I hate having to clean guns, I really hate having to baby them around life in the real world. Any body out there ever strip a gun down as much, and spray with one of these treatments? I understand the close tolerances and small intricate parts(trigger assembly), but just want the protection. Is this coating the "Magic Bullet"? Thanks.

August 11, 2012, 04:49 PM	#5
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	And it wears the paint right off. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

August 9, 2012, 11:31 PM	#3
AhChi WaWa Member Join Date: July 20, 2012 Posts: 19	I've sprayed & oven baked a couple of guns with Brownell's products and found them to hold up very well. You will want to completely disassemble as much as possible because you don't want to 'glue' things together with the 'paint' such as pins, springs, moving parts (like the safety button) etc. Some parts you won't want to coat so mask those off or set them aside. Yu will want to have the barreled action as short as possible to fit into the oven. Bake at 200 for a hour or so ( I found lower heat longer worked better than trying to rush it with higher temp). Also remove any plastic that will melt or warp. I've also parkerized on the stove top and you want to strip em down completely for that too - sorry but there isn't a short cut to doing it right.

August 11, 2012, 04:01 PM	#4
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	I've not used Cerakote, but have used Duracoat... In any case, you definitely do not want to paint "zero" clearance parts- like the bolthead. Adding paint thickness to lugs, or boltface, will change headspace.

August 11, 2012, 05:08 PM	#6
sigcurious Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 2011 Posts: 1,755	Sturmgehwere's Cerakote discussion A vid going over cerakote done by one of the forum members. He refinished an AR15, but the information is useful no matter what platform.

August 13, 2012, 01:09 PM	#7
Mac's! Senior Member Join Date: August 15, 2001 Posts: 129	I have no experience with Cerakote so I can't comment on it. I have lots of experience with "the other finish"...removing it to apply a real firearms finish. "The other finish"... aka Polane T by Sherwin Williams...was never intended as a firearms finish and has four things going against it: First, it's way to thick to use on any close tolerance parts. It will interfere with close tolerance moving parts and it doen't like to "slide" against itself. It balls up and/or peels. Second, it will not burnish. Burnish in this case means that it will not wear into a precision fit. It just balls up and peels if it's subjected to friction under high pressure. Third, the instructions! Any person who applies any kind of finish, whether it's on firearms, cars, houses, etc., will tell you that the preparation work is at least 50% of the overall job. "Degrease and spray it on" will result in a final job that may look ok for a while but it will not be durable. Fourth, the test results. There are none! As a firearms refinisher, I need to be able to answer questions about the durabilty of the finish under specific climate conditions, adverse chemical exposures, etc. When I asked "them" about chemical exposures, the response was: "Huh? Just try it. You'll love it". Nope! I never tried it and don't need to, to know that it won't fit the requirments of a real firearms finish. After all, what good does it do to do all of the work for a refinish job if the internals aren't finished and if they are, it won't run long before it starts having issues? I want it to look good and run good and last a long time. Here's some photo's "their" finish. One set is, in all honesty, not all the fault of the finish. http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010041.jpg http://www.shootiniron.com/P2130005.jpg http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010013.jpg http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010015.jpg http://www.shootiniron.com/P1010LLL.jpg Keep yer powder dry, Mac. Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All. Mac's Shootin' Irons http://www.shootiniron.com