Different Trigger Pull on One Round?

jr05 · May 17, 2015, 03:26 PM

I just picked up a new GP-100 and am really liking it; however, I have noticed the double action trigger pull is different on ONE of the six rounds. The beginning of the pull is the same, but at the end of one of them, the trigger is noticeable harder to pull than on the other five. The "normal" five have the end of the pull very similar to the single action trigger pull. This last one feels like it sort of hits a wall and you have to pull through it.

Anybody have any idea what might be going on? This is my first revolver.

Thanks,
JR

mman · May 17, 2015, 03:35 PM

One of the cylinders is rubbing on the forcing cone. Look for rub marks on forward end of cylinder where it passes by rear end of barrel to see which one it is.

James K · May 17, 2015, 11:27 PM

That may be the problem, or it may be a variation in the ratchet, or in the cylinder headspace at one chamber. Dry firing (with snap caps if you prefer) might help.

Jim

Model12Win · May 18, 2015, 12:27 AM

I've got a new Charter Arms Bulldog that does this too.

One round out of the five needs a somewhat harder pull.

I recommend you get some snap caps for your GP100 and dry fire the gun to your heart's content. Not only will this smooth out the entire action, it probably will also help with this issue. The parts of the gun probably just need to wear together more. I did this with my Bulldog and it helped quite a bit.

Doc Holliday 1950 · May 18, 2015, 09:43 PM

I have the new GP 100 and have not experienced your problem. But, I did get snap caps and it actually smoothed things out. If this continues call Ruger. They are very helpful and they back up their product 100%.
Doc

abowlieb · May 18, 2015, 10:26 PM

U dont need snap caps for a gp100. You can dry fire it all day long without a problem. Just dont go doing rapid fire combat drills lol. If u look at how the trigger works you can see why it doesnt need snap caps. I just hate to see a person spend money on something not needed, when that money could have been spent on real ammo lol.

Ps I have a gp100 and I dry fired mines thousands of times to smooth the trigger. Trust me it wont hurt the weapon. Even Ruger says to dry fire it.

jr05 · May 19, 2015, 08:05 AM

Thanks for all the replies, I will just fire it a bunch (live and dry) and see if it smooths out.

It is really only noticeable if you pull really slowly. If I am pulling the trigger even moderately fast, I can't tell the difference. It sounds like it probably is just a couple surfaces that need to wear in a bit. I will keep an eye on it though and see if it goes away with some more time.

Skeets · May 19, 2015, 08:15 AM

I had same problem with my S&W 19.It went to factory,was fixed and back in two weeks.Maybe call Ruger and explain your problem.Ruger is known for great customer service.

James K · May 19, 2015, 02:04 PM

It should be easy to tell if the cylinder is rubbing on the forcing cone by smoking the cylinder, using magic marker or Dykem. You can also try puling the trigger part way back to release the cylinder stop, then turning the cylinder by hand. If the cylinder binds when turned manually, that rules out the ratchet and indicates a problem with the cylinder itself.

Jim

jr05 · May 19, 2015, 02:27 PM

Just to add a little more to this discussion.

I just looked at it and did some testing, the cylinder has fully rotated (as far as I can tell) into position before this hard pull starts. The actual rotation of the cylinder during the trigger pull (initial 1/2+ of the pull) feels identical for all chambers. It really is just in the last bit of travel, just a smidge longer than the distance of the single action trigger pull

James K · May 19, 2015, 08:28 PM

Sounds like the ratchet. In an effort to make sure the cylinder is locked into position when the hammer is cocked, Ruger revised their hand-ratchet interface. While they achieved the goal, the result has sometimes been that the hand sometimes binds a bit in that last small fraction of an inch.

What to do? I strongly suggest doing nothing except to use the gun (dry firing or live firing) for a while; that problem usually works itself out in a couple of hundred "snaps" with no further problems. If results are needed immediately and the person doing the work is a skilled pistolsmith with a lot of revolver experience, I might have a different response, but I think it best to proffer the above suggestion about dry firing.

Jim

May 17, 2015, 03:26 PM	#1
jr05 Senior Member Join Date: November 3, 2006 Location: NH Posts: 145	Different Trigger Pull on One Round? I just picked up a new GP-100 and am really liking it; however, I have noticed the double action trigger pull is different on ONE of the six rounds. The beginning of the pull is the same, but at the end of one of them, the trigger is noticeable harder to pull than on the other five. The "normal" five have the end of the pull very similar to the single action trigger pull. This last one feels like it sort of hits a wall and you have to pull through it. Anybody have any idea what might be going on? This is my first revolver. Thanks, JR

May 19, 2015, 08:15 AM	#8
Skeets Member in memoriam Join Date: April 6, 2015 Location: Indiana Posts: 583	I had same problem with my S&W 19.It went to factory,was fixed and back in two weeks.Maybe call Ruger and explain your problem.Ruger is known for great customer service. __________________ Skeets "Over Kill Never Fails"

May 17, 2015, 03:35 PM	#2
mman Junior Member Join Date: January 24, 2015 Posts: 6	One of the cylinders is rubbing on the forcing cone. Look for rub marks on forward end of cylinder where it passes by rear end of barrel to see which one it is.

May 17, 2015, 11:27 PM	#3
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	That may be the problem, or it may be a variation in the ratchet, or in the cylinder headspace at one chamber. Dry firing (with snap caps if you prefer) might help. Jim

May 18, 2015, 12:27 AM	#4
Model12Win Junior member Join Date: October 20, 2012 Posts: 5,854	I've got a new Charter Arms Bulldog that does this too. One round out of the five needs a somewhat harder pull. I recommend you get some snap caps for your GP100 and dry fire the gun to your heart's content. Not only will this smooth out the entire action, it probably will also help with this issue. The parts of the gun probably just need to wear together more. I did this with my Bulldog and it helped quite a bit.

May 18, 2015, 09:43 PM	#5
Doc Holliday 1950 Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2014 Location: Bout as south as it gets Posts: 1,238	I have the new GP 100 and have not experienced your problem. But, I did get snap caps and it actually smoothed things out. If this continues call Ruger. They are very helpful and they back up their product 100%. Doc

May 18, 2015, 10:26 PM	#6
abowlieb Senior Member Join Date: June 27, 2013 Posts: 112	U dont need snap caps for a gp100. You can dry fire it all day long without a problem. Just dont go doing rapid fire combat drills lol. If u look at how the trigger works you can see why it doesnt need snap caps. I just hate to see a person spend money on something not needed, when that money could have been spent on real ammo lol. Ps I have a gp100 and I dry fired mines thousands of times to smooth the trigger. Trust me it wont hurt the weapon. Even Ruger says to dry fire it.

May 19, 2015, 08:05 AM	#7
jr05 Senior Member Join Date: November 3, 2006 Location: NH Posts: 145	Thanks for all the replies, I will just fire it a bunch (live and dry) and see if it smooths out. It is really only noticeable if you pull really slowly. If I am pulling the trigger even moderately fast, I can't tell the difference. It sounds like it probably is just a couple surfaces that need to wear in a bit. I will keep an eye on it though and see if it goes away with some more time.

May 19, 2015, 02:04 PM	#9
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	It should be easy to tell if the cylinder is rubbing on the forcing cone by smoking the cylinder, using magic marker or Dykem. You can also try puling the trigger part way back to release the cylinder stop, then turning the cylinder by hand. If the cylinder binds when turned manually, that rules out the ratchet and indicates a problem with the cylinder itself. Jim

May 19, 2015, 02:27 PM	#10
jr05 Senior Member Join Date: November 3, 2006 Location: NH Posts: 145	Just to add a little more to this discussion. I just looked at it and did some testing, the cylinder has fully rotated (as far as I can tell) into position before this hard pull starts. The actual rotation of the cylinder during the trigger pull (initial 1/2+ of the pull) feels identical for all chambers. It really is just in the last bit of travel, just a smidge longer than the distance of the single action trigger pull

May 19, 2015, 08:28 PM	#11
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Sounds like the ratchet. In an effort to make sure the cylinder is locked into position when the hammer is cocked, Ruger revised their hand-ratchet interface. While they achieved the goal, the result has sometimes been that the hand sometimes binds a bit in that last small fraction of an inch. What to do? I strongly suggest doing nothing except to use the gun (dry firing or live firing) for a while; that problem usually works itself out in a couple of hundred "snaps" with no further problems. If results are needed immediately and the person doing the work is a skilled pistolsmith with a lot of revolver experience, I might have a different response, but I think it best to proffer the above suggestion about dry firing. Jim