cutting down a stock

Jevyod · December 26, 2013, 10:19 AM

I would like to get a Boyds Laminated stock for my Ruger M77. The problem is, the length of pull on their stocks is 13.75 inches. I feel much more comfortable with something in the 12.75 inch range. Is it feasible to cut the stock down, wrapping it in tape so it will not splinter? Also, will I be able to find a recoil pad for it? Or will cutting an inch+ off a stock simply make it look silly? I called Boyds and they said they will not make me a stock with a shorter length of pull. Any thoughts, advice? Thanks!

603Country · December 26, 2013, 10:40 AM

I had to cut down the stock on a 223 Handi-Rifle for my sister's grandkids. I stressed over it for a while, thinking that I had to cut off an inch that had to be cut on a curve. Well, when I got the rifle I found that the end of the stock was flat and any curve was on the buttplate. I finally just used my sliding miter saw and it worked out perfect. That said, if a stock end does have to be cut on a curve, sketch out the cut line very carefully with a sharp tip marker or a dark pencil (or a red pencil). You can then make the cut with a band saw or a coping saw. Just take your time on the cut and don't get in a rush. Then, since either way you made the cut, it isn't going to be perfectly smooth, carefully sand (with 80 grit or 120 grit) till if fits the buttplate perfectly. Be careful to oversand the middle of the butt of the stock and DO NOT oversand and round off the edges of the butt of the stock.

If you can do it with a chop saw (miter saw), just be sure that the cut is actually 90 degrees to the stock end. And...if you use that chop saw, make the first cut at about half of the eventual full cut and then measure to make sure that you made the cut at 90 degrees and that this will work out the way you want. That gives you a very valuable practice cut so you can check how well you are doing. Might want to do that with the coping saw also. Never hurts to practice before you make the final (can't go back and fix it) cut.

Note that when you do make the cut and go to fit the buttplate, it's quite likely that the buttplate will be larger than the new end of the stock and it will also need some sanding to fit. If there's a lot of sanding that has to be done, use 150 grit (or 120) to remove most of the plastic. Then finish up with 220, 320, 400, and 600 grit and that should polish up the plastic real well.

jaguarxk120 · December 26, 2013, 11:08 AM

If you are fitting a recoil pad them it would be best to have a smith that does stock work do it. Recoil pads are ground to fit and if not done right the botched job looks really bad.

Remember a recoil pad has to be over size so when ground down the pad follows the lines of the stock. I've seen several amateurish installs and the person did not allow for the lines of the stock and to say the least they look bad.

Pahoo · December 26, 2013, 12:13 PM

In the past, I have cut, a couple of my own and considered myself lucky. For that reason, I won't do someone else's stock. I also have seen some botched up jobs and it can get ugly. For this reason, on fancy furniture, I would recommend an experienced smith. They have the fixture to do these cuts. I would make sure to get someone who is really experienced with doing these. ....

Shotgunners have sources that routinely do this. Check with a local trap club. You should not have a problem finding a smith who does these. ...

Consider; http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...buttstock&sm=3

Now, based on my limited experience, the guy in tis video, knows what he is doing !!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VM13KDNahJo

As far as fitting a buttpad/plate, not a problem and have done a number of these. I just finished doing one for a buddy's Marlin-60.

Be Safe !!!

603Country · December 26, 2013, 01:22 PM

I wouldn't do anyone else's stock either. I'll do mine for two reasons: I have all of the tools anyone could possibly need to do it; and I've been a woodworker for as long as I've been a hunter (50 years).

Clark · December 26, 2013, 05:17 PM

The miter saw gives length and the power miter saw takes it way.

The wife brought home the Makita power miter saw in 1984 for trimming ABS drain pipe.
30 years later it is still working.
The new ones will cut a bevel too.
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LS1040-...dp/B0000223I4/

I used to shorten the length of pull to fit me at 14", but now I want them as long as I can get them for shooting prone.

tobnpr · December 27, 2013, 09:14 PM

Simple enough to cut an inch off...
Miter (if it's big enough to handle it), or band saw...

Biggest issue is getting the buttstock square in both directions. Generally modern sporting rifles have the butt 90 degrees to the top line of the stock.

True it up on a benchtop belt sander after cutting.

You'll need a jig for fitting recoil pads (and the benchtop belt sander again) to do a professional job on a grind-to-fit recoil pad.

Not a difficult DIY project if you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, I do three or four a week on average.

Chuck Dye · December 27, 2013, 09:24 PM

The stocks I have shortened have tapered down to the butt plate and showed bare wood around the OEM plate when cut. Brownell's provided low cost oversized replacement butt plates that were easily fitted.

Measure twice, cut once!

Scorch · December 28, 2013, 12:19 AM

I cut and shorten stocks all the time. Not a problem, if you know what you are doing.

oneoldsap · December 29, 2013, 07:30 PM

I always put a scrap piece of plywood on my saw table so that when the blade comes out the bottom , it doesn't blow out any wood . Cut through everything . If you try it one time , you will do it every time ! I use a 12" DeWalt , with an 80T blade .

December 26, 2013, 10:19 AM	#1
Jevyod Senior Member Join Date: May 5, 2012 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 172	cutting down a stock I would like to get a Boyds Laminated stock for my Ruger M77. The problem is, the length of pull on their stocks is 13.75 inches. I feel much more comfortable with something in the 12.75 inch range. Is it feasible to cut the stock down, wrapping it in tape so it will not splinter? Also, will I be able to find a recoil pad for it? Or will cutting an inch+ off a stock simply make it look silly? I called Boyds and they said they will not make me a stock with a shorter length of pull. Any thoughts, advice? Thanks!

December 26, 2013, 12:13 PM	#4
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	I accept my limitations !!! In the past, I have cut, a couple of my own and considered myself lucky. For that reason, I won't do someone else's stock. I also have seen some botched up jobs and it can get ugly. For this reason, on fancy furniture, I would recommend an experienced smith. They have the fixture to do these cuts. I would make sure to get someone who is really experienced with doing these. .... Shotgunners have sources that routinely do this. Check with a local trap club. You should not have a problem finding a smith who does these. ... Consider; http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...buttstock&sm=3 Now, based on my limited experience, the guy in tis video, knows what he is doing !!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VM13KDNahJo As far as fitting a buttpad/plate, not a problem and have done a number of these. I just finished doing one for a buddy's Marlin-60. Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. Last edited by Pahoo; December 26, 2013 at 12:43 PM.

December 26, 2013, 05:17 PM	#6
Clark Senior Member Join Date: December 4, 1999 Location: WA, the ever blue state Posts: 4,678	The miter saw gives length and the power miter saw takes it way. The wife brought home the Makita power miter saw in 1984 for trimming ABS drain pipe. 30 years later it is still working. The new ones will cut a bevel too. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LS1040-...dp/B0000223I4/ I used to shorten the length of pull to fit me at 14", but now I want them as long as I can get them for shooting prone. __________________ The word 'forum" does not mean "not criticizing books." "Ad hominem fallacy" is not the same as point by point criticism of books. If you bought the book, and believe it all, it may FEEL like an ad hominem attack, but you might strive to accept other points of view may exist. Are we a nation of competing ideas, or a nation of forced conformity of thought?

December 27, 2013, 09:14 PM	#7
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	Simple enough to cut an inch off... Miter (if it's big enough to handle it), or band saw... Biggest issue is getting the buttstock square in both directions. Generally modern sporting rifles have the butt 90 degrees to the top line of the stock. True it up on a benchtop belt sander after cutting. You'll need a jig for fitting recoil pads (and the benchtop belt sander again) to do a professional job on a grind-to-fit recoil pad. Not a difficult DIY project if you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, I do three or four a week on average. __________________ Remington 700/Savage Rebarreling /Action Blueprinting 07 FFL /Mosin-Nagant Custom Shop/Bent Bolts Genuine Cerakote Applicator www.biggorillagunworks.com

December 27, 2013, 09:24 PM	#8
Chuck Dye Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 2002 Location: Oregon-The wet side. Posts: 949	The stocks I have shortened have tapered down to the butt plate and showed bare wood around the OEM plate when cut. Brownell's provided low cost oversized replacement butt plates that were easily fitted. Measure twice, cut once! __________________ Gee, I'd love to see your data!

December 26, 2013, 10:40 AM	#2
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	I had to cut down the stock on a 223 Handi-Rifle for my sister's grandkids. I stressed over it for a while, thinking that I had to cut off an inch that had to be cut on a curve. Well, when I got the rifle I found that the end of the stock was flat and any curve was on the buttplate. I finally just used my sliding miter saw and it worked out perfect. That said, if a stock end does have to be cut on a curve, sketch out the cut line very carefully with a sharp tip marker or a dark pencil (or a red pencil). You can then make the cut with a band saw or a coping saw. Just take your time on the cut and don't get in a rush. Then, since either way you made the cut, it isn't going to be perfectly smooth, carefully sand (with 80 grit or 120 grit) till if fits the buttplate perfectly. Be careful to oversand the middle of the butt of the stock and DO NOT oversand and round off the edges of the butt of the stock. If you can do it with a chop saw (miter saw), just be sure that the cut is actually 90 degrees to the stock end. And...if you use that chop saw, make the first cut at about half of the eventual full cut and then measure to make sure that you made the cut at 90 degrees and that this will work out the way you want. That gives you a very valuable practice cut so you can check how well you are doing. Might want to do that with the coping saw also. Never hurts to practice before you make the final (can't go back and fix it) cut. Note that when you do make the cut and go to fit the buttplate, it's quite likely that the buttplate will be larger than the new end of the stock and it will also need some sanding to fit. If there's a lot of sanding that has to be done, use 150 grit (or 120) to remove most of the plastic. Then finish up with 220, 320, 400, and 600 grit and that should polish up the plastic real well.

December 26, 2013, 11:08 AM	#3
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,619	If you are fitting a recoil pad them it would be best to have a smith that does stock work do it. Recoil pads are ground to fit and if not done right the botched job looks really bad. Remember a recoil pad has to be over size so when ground down the pad follows the lines of the stock. I've seen several amateurish installs and the person did not allow for the lines of the stock and to say the least they look bad.

December 26, 2013, 01:22 PM	#5
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	I wouldn't do anyone else's stock either. I'll do mine for two reasons: I have all of the tools anyone could possibly need to do it; and I've been a woodworker for as long as I've been a hunter (50 years).

December 28, 2013, 12:19 AM	#9
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	I cut and shorten stocks all the time. Not a problem, if you know what you are doing. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

December 29, 2013, 07:30 PM	#10
oneoldsap Senior Member Join Date: September 16, 2009 Location: I live in the foot of the Green Mountains of Vermont Posts: 1,602	I always put a scrap piece of plywood on my saw table so that when the blade comes out the bottom , it doesn't blow out any wood . Cut through everything . If you try it one time , you will do it every time ! I use a 12" DeWalt , with an 80T blade . __________________ Don't forget to have your liberals spayed or neutered !