Ruger American Barrel Removal

RCP Fab · May 9, 2013, 07:05 AM

The thought of a heavy barrel has been plaguing my mind since I bought my RAR. Last night I decided I would pull the factory barrel and

a) make sure the barrel was easily removable
b) learn some more about the factory barrel

The RAR is set up with a smooth barrel nut like some of the savages, but none of the dimensions are the same.

Clamp the receiver in a vise, I used my bridgeport vise. There are 2 flats on ether side of the receiver. It does not have to be clamped all that tight, if you have a good vise.

The barrel nut is torqued ridiculously tight. So tight that the small area under the barrel that was missing some bluing made me question if the nut was soldered on, but it is not.

Using a strap wrench was a waste of time. Some people say to use a pipe wrench on the savages, then replace the nut. I opted to make a tool.

A few taps and the nut comes loose, remove the tool and back the barrel out by hand.

To reinstall, use a go gauge, or a piece of brass that was fired from your rifle (not resized). Start the barrel in the receiver and chamber the brass or go gauge, making sure the bolt is completely closed. Screw the barrel in until it stops (the lettering on the barrel should now be aligned), back off ever so slightly, and use the tool to tighten the barrel nut.

mxsailor803 · May 9, 2013, 07:11 AM

Nice design. Quick suggestion though, how about cut you a square opening for a torque wrench now?

RCP Fab · May 9, 2013, 07:22 AM

Yep, thats next on the list.

g.willikers · May 9, 2013, 09:20 AM

Nice job.
Thanks for the hint and pictures.
I've used U bolts and a bar for things like this, but yours is better.

williams480 · May 10, 2013, 05:05 AM

RCP, I have been having the same thoughts about a heavy barrel in a 8 twist.
To be able to run the heavier Bergers, JLK's, or just stabilize my 95 gr VLD's a bit better for LR.

Rifle shoots better than me already, so a re-barrel may have to wait until it starts showing signs of wear, or my pocketbook allows. Whichever comes first.

Nice work on the removal demo, thanks !

Steve

Metal god · May 10, 2013, 03:57 PM

Now that you have the barrel off what threads does it have and what after market barrels can be put on it if any ?

RCP Fab · May 15, 2013, 09:06 AM

Forgot to follow-up on this thread.

The threads are 1"-16 (mine measure .998"). So far no other barrels that I found would be a simple thread on installation. The M77 uses the same threads, but no barrel nut so the threaded are far too short.

RCP Fab · June 11, 2014, 10:39 AM

Pictures fixed

Jay24bal · June 11, 2014, 11:37 AM

Thanks for the write up.

With the new introduction of the Ruger American Predator, you may get your answer for a heavy barrel that will fit it. Now, whether it is the length and twist you are looking for is another story.

I for one, and looking forward to getting my hands on one in 6.5 Creedmore

RCP Fab · June 11, 2014, 11:44 AM

I don't have my RAR anymore. I added the pics because I got a few PM's asking for them (this thread is pretty old).

The RAR Predators are pretty sweet, but its still a pretty light barrel.

The stocks are terrible, but the trigger is FANTASTIC. I have a Rem 700 now, the stock is WAY better, as is the factory varmint barrel, but the trigger is lacking. Good thing with the 700's is for $100 I can have a trigger in the mail whenever I want.

rfd · June 11, 2014, 06:45 PM

thanx for adding the pix. sounds like the only stock barrels that will fit are the RAR or RAP. when i burn out my .243win i'd probably want to replace it with an RAP 6.5 Creedmore.

fwiw, there's an easy "fix" for the RAR stock (and others) - Rockite. just mix up this cement and pour into the fore end and buttstock (put some 1" pvc pipe as a filler of sorts). the mud will harden within 15 minutes and cure overnight. it will make the fore end STIFF as steel, and the butt area will be a better balance, plus mercury or shot or whatever can be added to the tube for more recoil dampening. this adds about a pound to rifle.

the barrel is fully free floated both before and after the rockite treatment.

add in the swfa 10x and a caldwell bipod, and unloaded she's 10lb 5oz. very accurate for 3 rounds, then the light barrel needs to cool down.

RCP Fab · June 11, 2014, 06:47 PM

Yup, did all that to mine as well. Stock was still junk, it was just stiff junk when I was done.

RCP Fab · June 11, 2014, 07:13 PM

This was mine all said and done..... predator-ish LOL

**4V50 Gary** · June 11, 2014, 08:28 PM

I'm officially jealous. I don't have a bridgeport mill vise and a bridgeport mill.

RCP Fab · June 11, 2014, 08:30 PM

LOL.... that pics over a year old.... I have two of them now

May 9, 2013, 07:05 AM	#1
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	Ruger American Barrel Removal The thought of a heavy barrel has been plaguing my mind since I bought my RAR. Last night I decided I would pull the factory barrel and a) make sure the barrel was easily removable b) learn some more about the factory barrel The RAR is set up with a smooth barrel nut like some of the savages, but none of the dimensions are the same. Clamp the receiver in a vise, I used my bridgeport vise. There are 2 flats on ether side of the receiver. It does not have to be clamped all that tight, if you have a good vise. The barrel nut is torqued ridiculously tight. So tight that the small area under the barrel that was missing some bluing made me question if the nut was soldered on, but it is not. Using a strap wrench was a waste of time. Some people say to use a pipe wrench on the savages, then replace the nut. I opted to make a tool. A few taps and the nut comes loose, remove the tool and back the barrel out by hand. To reinstall, use a go gauge, or a piece of brass that was fired from your rifle (not resized). Start the barrel in the receiver and chamber the brass or go gauge, making sure the bolt is completely closed. Screw the barrel in until it stops (the lettering on the barrel should now be aligned), back off ever so slightly, and use the tool to tighten the barrel nut. Last edited by Brian Pfleuger; June 11, 2014 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Photos Reattached

May 9, 2013, 09:20 AM	#4
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	Nice job. Thanks for the hint and pictures. I've used U bolts and a bar for things like this, but yours is better. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

June 11, 2014, 10:39 AM	#8
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	Pictures fixed Last edited by Brian Pfleuger; June 11, 2014 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Photos Moved to OP

June 11, 2014, 11:37 AM	#9
Jay24bal Senior Member Join Date: December 13, 2011 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 735	Thanks for the write up. With the new introduction of the Ruger American Predator, you may get your answer for a heavy barrel that will fit it. Now, whether it is the length and twist you are looking for is another story. I for one, and looking forward to getting my hands on one in 6.5 Creedmore __________________ I like guns. Once Fired Brass, Top quality, Fast shipping, Best prices. http://300AacBrass.com/ -10% Coupon use code " Jay24bal "

June 11, 2014, 08:28 PM	#14
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	I'm officially jealous. I don't have a bridgeport mill vise and a bridgeport mill. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

May 9, 2013, 07:11 AM	#2
mxsailor803 Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2010 Location: SC Posts: 1,344	Nice design. Quick suggestion though, how about cut you a square opening for a torque wrench now?

May 9, 2013, 07:22 AM	#3
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	Yep, thats next on the list.

May 10, 2013, 05:05 AM	#5
williams480 Junior Member Join Date: May 2, 2013 Location: Wytheville, Va. Posts: 11	RCP, I have been having the same thoughts about a heavy barrel in a 8 twist. To be able to run the heavier Bergers, JLK's, or just stabilize my 95 gr VLD's a bit better for LR. Rifle shoots better than me already, so a re-barrel may have to wait until it starts showing signs of wear, or my pocketbook allows. Whichever comes first. Nice work on the removal demo, thanks ! Steve

May 10, 2013, 03:57 PM	#6
Metal god Senior Member Join Date: April 10, 2012 Location: San Diego CA Posts: 6,876	Now that you have the barrel off what threads does it have and what after market barrels can be put on it if any ?

May 15, 2013, 09:06 AM	#7
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	Forgot to follow-up on this thread. The threads are 1"-16 (mine measure .998"). So far no other barrels that I found would be a simple thread on installation. The M77 uses the same threads, but no barrel nut so the threaded are far too short.

June 11, 2014, 11:44 AM	#10
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	I don't have my RAR anymore. I added the pics because I got a few PM's asking for them (this thread is pretty old). The RAR Predators are pretty sweet, but its still a pretty light barrel. The stocks are terrible, but the trigger is FANTASTIC. I have a Rem 700 now, the stock is WAY better, as is the factory varmint barrel, but the trigger is lacking. Good thing with the 700's is for $100 I can have a trigger in the mail whenever I want.

June 11, 2014, 06:45 PM	#11
rfd Member Join Date: June 4, 2014 Posts: 25	thanx for adding the pix. sounds like the only stock barrels that will fit are the RAR or RAP. when i burn out my .243win i'd probably want to replace it with an RAP 6.5 Creedmore. fwiw, there's an easy "fix" for the RAR stock (and others) - Rockite. just mix up this cement and pour into the fore end and buttstock (put some 1" pvc pipe as a filler of sorts). the mud will harden within 15 minutes and cure overnight. it will make the fore end STIFF as steel, and the butt area will be a better balance, plus mercury or shot or whatever can be added to the tube for more recoil dampening. this adds about a pound to rifle. the barrel is fully free floated both before and after the rockite treatment. add in the swfa 10x and a caldwell bipod, and unloaded she's 10lb 5oz. very accurate for 3 rounds, then the light barrel needs to cool down.

June 11, 2014, 06:47 PM	#12
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	Yup, did all that to mine as well. Stock was still junk, it was just stiff junk when I was done.

June 11, 2014, 07:13 PM	#13
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	This was mine all said and done..... predator-ish LOL

June 11, 2014, 08:30 PM	#15
RCP Fab Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Posts: 113	LOL.... that pics over a year old.... I have two of them now