Advice on Building my own M14/M1A

[Bear Flare]

Gentlemen:

I am in the market for an M14/M1A type rifle, standard grade

Some have recommended that I build one myself, and I find the thought of building my own rifle from parts intriguing to say the least. Being a Mechanical Engineer with some machine shop background, I think I could pull it off.

HOWEVER, The M14/M1A type rifle is a bit trickier than, say, an AR15. There are some headspacing issues, bolt lapping, and various alignment variables that would make this experience interesting. I have no prior gunsmithing experience and no prior exposure to the M14/M1A type rifle.

Is there an armorer's manual or shop manual explaining an accepted order of assembly, critical fit issues and dimensions, etc.? I'll buy this and study it before making my decision.

Should I warm up on an AR15 first? Should I forget it? I really hate to spend $1200 on cast parts assembled in Brazil. I'd rather spend $1200 on GI parts where applicable and Fulton Armory parts where necessary.

This leads to another question, what are the M14 parts that CANNOT be used legally in a semi-auto only rifle?? I mean this obviously apart from the selector assembly. Will I need a non-GI operating rod? Will the trigger, sear, hammer, or disconnector need to be modified from M14 configuration?

Everybody says "Get Match Super-Duper Grade" for only $200 more. I WILL NOT buy a match grade semi-auto. In my humble opinion, match grade negates the advantages of semi-auto by making the weapon, as a system, much more sensitive to even the slightest damage. If I take this thing in the FIELD, chances are that I need only hunting accuracy and .75-1 MOA will not help me. Also, a rack grade rifle has the accuracy potential far in excess of what I will ever need already. If I need a tack driver, I'll get a good, bedded, HB'd bolt gun. Just my personal philosophy.

Thanks to all in advance as usual

Nicholas Berring

[Bear Flare]

OK,

No M14 builders here or did I offend somebody?

Nick

[HankL]

Bear, I just noticed your post. While you could probably pull off the project the time and cost might become a factor for building just one example. Fixtures, gages etc. to be made or purchased. Jerry Kuhnhausen has a book out titled The U.S. .30 Caliber Gas Operated Service Rifles which covers quite a bit of ground on the subject and is a good read as well.

You would be surprised at what a tack driver M1A can endure in the field! Good luck with your project.

[Rokchukrslave]

If you just want a rack grade rifle then I think you will be happy with the standard Springfield M1A. Fulton and other M1A builders are geared more for competition and the prices will reflect that. I don't think it is a good idea to build a rack grade M1A, it's just not cost effective to round up all the parts, hope they fit together right, and then pay someone out the yang to put it together for you.
Spingfield M1A's don't even use the selector switch parts so that is not a problem. As far as legality, the only thing that makes a M1A pre-ban is the bayonet lug, unless you live in CA then the flash suppressor is illegal also.

[Strayhorn]

I agree with HankL - given the specialized tools involved, you'd be better off contracting with a professional to build your rifle. I'd suggest you contact someone like Clint McKee at Fulton Armory or Norm Chandler at Iron Brigade Armory to discuss your needs. They aren't a good candidate for a "shade tree" project.

I also agree about the Jerry Kuhnhausen books - a great source of information and an absolute necessity if you want to maintain and repair your rifle.

[dZ]

i am a big fan of indentured servitude.

What about taking a weeks vacation and helping out at Fulton?

They do have the tools & knowledge

dZ

[Cheapo]

Bear Flare, I did just that too many years ago than I care to admit.

The only thing you need professional help with is screwing in the barrel and reaming the chamber if needed. Using a USGI barrel, the headspace just might work out okay as assembled. BUT CHECK IT!

The action wrench and barrel vise clamps can be made by anyone with access to appropriate metal stock and a a few decent machine tools. Heck, you can even make 'em with file and a few sacrificial hacksaw blades if you have the ambition.

Then when it's all done and you look at the mismatched parkerizing, you'll want to have it refinished. Or will you? I did. Hired a pro and it was worth the dough.

So is $1200 the going price for parts kit plus receiver these days? OUCH!!

[4V50 Gary]

Yep, without the tools or the jigs, it's virtually impossible. Got the knowledge, but no tools.

[MIKE14]

All Springfield M1A's are totaly U.S. made I've heard the Brazil rumor I think it is bunk. Buy a M1A loaded package and you will not be disapointed.

[Strayhorn]

In my previous post, I forgot to mention Smith Enterprises as a good builder. The other two I mentioned, Fulton and Iron Brigade, are here on the East Coast and Smith is in Arizona, if that is a help to you.

Like Clint at Fulton or Norm at Iron Brigade, Ron Smith is a dedicated professional, a former Marine, and strong defender of RKBA. I have dealt with all three of these men and can recommend them without reservation.

Once, at a gun show, I bought a muzzle brake that was advertised as being one of Ron's (he makes his from solid bar stock). When I got home, it turned out to be a phony, made from cheap metal, and the threads were wrong to boot. I called Ron to let him know someone was passing off counterfeit copies of his stuff. He apologized for the situation, then offered to send me a genuine brake if I would send him the phony along with the name of the guy who sold it to me. So, he stood behind his product even it it wasn't actually his.

If you need any contact info, just let me know.

[Cheapo]

IIRC, the "evil features" you must avoid can be combined in any combination of TWO. Three equals an evil weapon which is sorely mis-named.

These include:

Flash hider
Bayonet lug
Pistol grip
and maybe more

and might even include the detachable box magazine.

Just look at the configuration of new Springfield M1As for non-California, non-NJ, non-wherevertheirbrainsaremush states, and duplicate that. I believe all you must do is take of the bayo lug. You might have to spot-weld the flash hider on--isn't a threaded muzzle a separate evil feature?

Don't worry about losing reliability of you have a match-type chamber in your barrel. I've been on the firing line a lot in years past, and tight chambers were not causing jams. Out-of-spec reloads, really improper lube (like dry!), and crunched magazine feed lips caused all of the very few jams I ever saw. Oh yeah, there was also one broken trigger group--safety sear broke and it jammed after three rounds of full-auto surprise!

[Mouse Gun]

When I got Kuhnhausen's book it made me think twice about my project but I'm going to go ahead with it anyway(very glad to have before than after something goes south). Thanks to a friend with the machinery to help out in the barrel fitting process, as I'm sure a lathe will be needed to get correct draw on a commercial barrel. Those unobtainable guages in the book would be nice to check out those commercial receivers.

Brian

[ma96782]

O.K., I admit it, I've built M1As before......way back before this silly importation BATF stuff occured.

Anyway, back then there were ALOT of M-14 kits (no receiver) coming in and available in the Shotgun News.

And, I figured that I wanted to try building one .........hell it was simple as pie.

First, buy a Springfiled receiver.

Get a real gunsmith to do the bbl work.

Then attach the parts as per the G.I. manual on the rifle.

Go shoot after that, have fun.

However the match bug took ahold of me.

Response: Send the rifle to REAL GUNSMITH and have the gun worked on.

Just my .02 on the subject.

[Shadow Walker]

Many years ago I made M-1 Tanker Garands using M-14 magazines and M-14 magazine catches.

I purchase the parts seperately, and made the receivers from dewat receivers, i e., pieces of receivers.

I made the barrel wrench from scrap 1/2 inch thick metal by drilling out a hole to size, and then filing till it fit the barrel shoulders on the sides.

Didn't have any "GO" "NO GO" gauges, so I just installed the barrels and used a long string to test fire the rifles.

There were no headspace problems.

I have headspaced Mauser Rifles by using a 6 inch machinist rule. With bolt closed (no barrel installed), measure from face of bolt to front of receiver. Use this measurement to chamber the barrel, measuring from rear of case to barrel shoulder.

Headspacing always worked out fine for me. Of course, your eyes will have to be good, and you will need to be knowledgeable in reading the rule. I say this because some people are out in left field when it comes to reading measurements!

I have gotten a lot of laughs when I explained my process to various people. But, WTH, if works wheres the problem.

Have also rebarrel M-1 Carbines by just changing out the barrel. Headspacing was always correct. Just used an open end wrench and a padded vise to change barrels. Easy!!

Of course, in every case you will probably still want to use a long string for test firing.

Hope I have been some help.

[Mouse Gun]

I think for some it's more the doing it yourself, just to do it, more that saving money or producing a Fulton Pearless M1A. Granted most of the M1/M14 smiths out there got their training from Uncle Sam but Clint Mckee(of Fulton Armory) didn't and he can produce a fine rifle. I asked him at Camp Perry were he got his experience and he said he was self-taught. If you truly love the M1/M14 rifles I think it will be a great experience, just do your homework. It ain't no AR15.

Brian

[HankL]

It can be done! The M21 project only took a year longer than getting a Pearless from Clint and that took almost a year. It took me scrounging parts and working with some fine machinist who were also high power shooters. These days a receiver will cost you enough to consider your decision Go for it if you like because you will really know your rifle after you have done it.

[Mouse Gun]

Hank, thats funny you mention the M21 as I'm going to work on one this year, at least thats my plan. I've only seen the M21 stock from SA available for $450, any other sources? I've also considered using some Anschutz hardware and making one myself.

Brian