[PROBLEM] Removing Screws on Mini-14...Pics Included

adriano · October 6, 2005, 03:29 PM

Hello all. I am trying to remove the upper half of the gas block on my Mini-14 in order to install a foreward mounted weaver rail in its place. The entire process simply requires the removal of 4 screws on the underside of the barrel (see pic's). However, the problem is that these screws are absolutely unwilling to turn, no matter how much "elbow grease" I apply. I have the correct allen key, and have tried lubricating the thread (I can access the thread from the top, bottom, and side), but with no luck. Is there something I am missing here? Thanks for any help you can provide!

brickeyee · October 6, 2005, 03:43 PM

Try heating them with a soldering iron. This will break down most of the thread locking compounds. You need to unscrew while hot.

**Unclenick** · October 6, 2005, 09:05 PM

Because this is a part that must not shoot loose (or the gas port will start losing gas where it shouldn't), I expect it not only has a thread locking compound holding it i place, but the hardened socket-head cap screws suggest they have also been tourqued to a specification you will need to match for safety. You could try asking Ruger what that is, and whether they are using locktite 271 or its equivalent. If so, as brickyee said, you will need to apply heat.

By the way, in situations calling for penetrating oil, I have found PB Blaster to be especially effective.

Nick

Dfariswheel · October 7, 2005, 02:37 AM

FYI, the Ruger gas block screws are torqued in place in a specific pattern, AND staked in place.

Try to remove them wrong, and they strip out, ruining the block.

Once removed, they must be discarded, and new screws used.

As I answered this same question on another forum, there's a LOT more to the Ruger gas block than just two pieces that are just screwed together.

Under the gas block is a gas port tube or bushing.
The gas block assembly MUST be properly aligned and adjusted, then the screws are tightened in a specific pattern, then torqued and staked.

Get it wrong and the rifle will be inaccurate or even fail to work.

All of this is why Ruger is VERY specific about the gas block being a factory-ONLY remove and replace operation.
They have special gages to install it properly.

Harry Bonar · October 7, 2005, 06:40 PM

Dear Sir:
You can easily remove these screws - I've done it numerous times.

Here is how to loosten or tighten a screw: Back-up the block and with a punch that will clear the allen screw go to the bottom of the hole and with a LIGHT HAMMER give eack screw a SMART blow inward. Yes, a small amount of heat will help but I've never needed it.
If you want to tighten a weaver (or other) mount screw, do the sane thing with a pinch lightly and you can turn the screws a small amount and they won't come loose - be careful, go easy or you'll shear off the head!
Happy Trails Harry B.

October 6, 2005, 03:29 PM	#1
adriano Junior Member Join Date: February 15, 2005 Posts: 7	[PROBLEM] Removing Screws on Mini-14...Pics Included Hello all. I am trying to remove the upper half of the gas block on my Mini-14 in order to install a foreward mounted weaver rail in its place. The entire process simply requires the removal of 4 screws on the underside of the barrel (see pic's). However, the problem is that these screws are absolutely unwilling to turn, no matter how much "elbow grease" I apply. I have the correct allen key, and have tried lubricating the thread (I can access the thread from the top, bottom, and side), but with no luck. Is there something I am missing here? Thanks for any help you can provide!

October 7, 2005, 06:40 PM	#5
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	mini-14 screws Dear Sir: You can easily remove these screws - I've done it numerous times. Here is how to loosten or tighten a screw: Back-up the block and with a punch that will clear the allen screw go to the bottom of the hole and with a LIGHT HAMMER give eack screw a SMART blow inward. Yes, a small amount of heat will help but I've never needed it. If you want to tighten a weaver (or other) mount screw, do the sane thing with a pinch lightly and you can turn the screws a small amount and they won't come loose - be careful, go easy or you'll shear off the head! Happy Trails Harry B.

October 6, 2005, 03:43 PM	#2
brickeyee Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2004 Posts: 3,351	Try heating them with a soldering iron. This will break down most of the thread locking compounds. You need to unscrew while hot.

October 6, 2005, 09:05 PM	#3
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	Because this is a part that must not shoot loose (or the gas port will start losing gas where it shouldn't), I expect it not only has a thread locking compound holding it i place, but the hardened socket-head cap screws suggest they have also been tourqued to a specification you will need to match for safety. You could try asking Ruger what that is, and whether they are using locktite 271 or its equivalent. If so, as brickyee said, you will need to apply heat. By the way, in situations calling for penetrating oil, I have found PB Blaster to be especially effective. Nick

October 7, 2005, 02:37 AM	#4
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	FYI, the Ruger gas block screws are torqued in place in a specific pattern, AND staked in place. Try to remove them wrong, and they strip out, ruining the block. Once removed, they must be discarded, and new screws used. As I answered this same question on another forum, there's a LOT more to the Ruger gas block than just two pieces that are just screwed together. Under the gas block is a gas port tube or bushing. The gas block assembly MUST be properly aligned and adjusted, then the screws are tightened in a specific pattern, then torqued and staked. Get it wrong and the rifle will be inaccurate or even fail to work. All of this is why Ruger is VERY specific about the gas block being a factory-ONLY remove and replace operation. They have special gages to install it properly.