Help finding equipment (New reloader)

[dunerjeff]

I think they figure most people will just order anyway if they already filled everything out and then see the high shipping.If they show it right of the bat many will cancel and look elswere.Unfortunatly a lot of companies do it.

[David Bachelder]

Call them (powder valley), they'll quote shipping. From what I've seen, they are fair and do not scalp you for shipping or use it to boost profit from low pricing.

[flashhole]

Don't any of your Police buddies reload? I'd suggest asking around, you might find a mentor to help.

[excelerater]

550B is not bad choice,but 650 is better for the QTY your going to shoot
I can load 400 an hour on my 550 when things are rolling along but the 650
I hear does 600 an hour,I wish I bought one now

[dmazur]

I'm very happy with my 550B. Yes, I might be happier with a 650, but the 550 strikes a nice balance between simplicity and production.

Some 550B pointers (in addition the reading the manual) -

1. There is a little set screw on the side of the ram. Don't forget to loosen it before you try to remove the center bolt in the middle of the shell plate, and tighten it after you change shell plates.

2. The shell plate has to be relatively tight, or you can wind up with "cocked primers" as the shell plate will try to tip when you are performing the primer stroke. A little grease on the detent ball helps. You should be able to index easily, but not see any "wiggle" in the shell plate if you try to lift one side.

3. A lamp with a small head, aimed at Station 2, it a real nice thing to have so you can watch the amount of powder in the case. The Dillon powder measure is very reliable, but it is still nice to see what it is doing. I also verify powder throw by weighing a charge after every box of ammo.

4. If you don't have a powder measure set up for every toolhead, but just swap the same one between toolheads with powder-thru expander dies, you may want to check out a Uniqetek powder bar. This is a standard Dillon part with a micrometer head instead of just a machine screw. It makes it much easier to get in the ball park when trying to return to a previously-used throw. I suppose it would also be useful if you used a variety of loads in the same caliber.

5. The strong mount is worth it. It permits mounting the bullet tray at just the correct location for your left hand to grab a bullet, and also hangs a plastic box on the right side for completed rounds. I've found that another plastic box can be placed on the bench top near your right hand, for prepped brass.

Dillon has excellent support, not just for repairs and parts, but for technical questions as well. If you have any, don't hestiate to give them a call.

Good luck.

[CTS]

I have a Redding BR30 competition powder measure with extra large 10" hopper Sinclair stand and Sinclair 4"drop tube for sale. If interested email me at [email protected]

[dmazur]

slappy -

If I understand the situation, the OP has decided to purchase a 550B, which has a powder measure as part of its design.

However,

Dillon 1 Large pick up tube for $8

If you (kmaldona) are reloading 9mm at this time, you might want to change this to a Small pick up tube. I believe the press comes with one Large and one Small, and if you want another for 9mm, it requires the Small.

[CTS]

Thanks for the info Dmazur, I've never used a Dillon press and was unaware of that.
As for shipping, Graf and Sons are hard to beat, they will ship anything UPS for $4.95 handling fee and if it is over $100 they even waive that. They currently have the RL550B for $369.99.

[kmaldona]

I dont think the Graf and Sons have the dyes so it really isnt that good of a deal.

Are these fine bullets?
http://www.missouribullet.com/detail...ry=8&keywords=

[CTS]

I guess it depends on what dies you are looking for. They have plenty of 9mm die sets: http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...ategoryId/574? Or does the 550 only take Dillon dies?

[Cowboy_mo]

Check Ebay for your dies......... I have only purchased and used rifle dies thus far, but I purchased all of my dies off Ebay (very slightly used) for about 60% of what new ones would have cost me.

Also I strongly suggest you check out your local suppliers for components that require a hazmat shipping charge. (I know powder requires hazmat and I think primers do also) The hazmat charge usually wipes out any savings from ordering online, at least in my area where there are multiple component sources.

[1SOW]

just got hired as a police officer and I am 23 years old. I been shooting a lot and I am wanting to shoot a lot more. I shoot about 1-2000 9mm rounds a month

Starting reloading is a little more challenging with a full progressive, but in your case reasonable.

1st, What type commercial ammo are you shooting now? Do you want to keep shooting something "similar" but maybe a little better?

2nd, just starting to reload and jumping straight to a progressive press is understandable, but I don't recommend "adding" to your learning curve with lead bullets just yet. Load a fully jacketed or plated blated bullet first to keep it easy.
There are many bullet manufacturers that sell fmjs/plated bullets reasonably priced. Montana Gold, Zero and Berry's (plated) Bullets are just three of many you can check out. Some sources for these and other 9mm bullets include "Powder Valley"," Berry's Bullets", "Rose Distrution", "Shooter's connection" and many more.

3rd, I also recommend a mild to mid-range target/range load to start out.
A versatile powder with a fairly wide load range is Win231/HP38 (same exact powder). readily available locally and LOTS of published load data.

After you are responding to posts like this one, then spread out and experiment with many powders and bullets.

P.S. "The tools" are much cheaper than the components in the not-so-long run. There are no sales on Dillon. The Brian Enos Forum sells them with free shipping--about as cheap as you'll find.. In 9mm, LEE carbide die sets are very good and inexpensive.

I'm using a LEE Turret press to load 250(+) 9mm rds/week, but I'm retired, and enjoy the process. I have sometimes wished I had gone to the Dillon 550B when my 'stash' gets low.

PPS. PICK UP AL THE 9mm BRASS AT THE RANGE AND DURING ANY TRAINING YOU MAY GET.

Stay safe and enjoy the experiences.

[kmaldona]

1) Right now I shoot the cheapest brass casing ammo I can get. Its usually federal 115 gn. I am new to shooting so I am working on my shooting before I go to the academy.

2) I already bought 2k lead bullets Parabellum Bullet Bundle(BB-356115M-2K) from missouri bullets for 118 shipped.

3) Also bought 4lbs of Bullseye. Heard this was a very good powder for 9mm.


I have not bought the press or the dyes yet but was just going to get everything from dillons website.

[1SOW]

Bullseye will work fine.
Read about shooting lead bullets before you use them. Lyman's Load book will give lead bullet info and cast lead data that works. READ the book before you start loading. Start low and work up.

[kmaldona]

I did order Lymans book also. Will use that for some info.

[engineermike]

I you get a power measure you may want to get one that has a small drum for pistols. As for dies you may want to check out the lyman, RCBS, Hornady, and Lee dies.

[kmaldona]

Would those dyes work on the dillon 550b?

[federali]

There's an old ad that says you might as well start out with what you're going to end up with. I own both a Dillon progressive and a Rockchucker. Two great presses. For your volume, a progressive is the way to go, otherwise you'll be cranking out reloads day and night. There's one caveat: I hesitate to recommend a progressive to someone with no reloading experience. There are lots of things happening simultaneously. Go with the progressive but find someone in your area who has one and let him walk you through the set-up for each station.

Bullet casting is a lot of work. An alternative is to buy cast bullets from Rainier or Berry's. Plated bullets are even better but a bit more expensive. You may not use cast bullets in Glocks and you might want to check if cast bullets are safe in whatever you're using. I think lead bullets cannot be used with polygonal rifling--not sure.

[F. Guffey]

Kalmdonia, there are three of us., when it comes to casting lead, we set up a production line, there is nothing one has that the other does not have, most of my molds are one and two cavity, that slows us down so we only use 4 + cavity moles until it gets to 58 cal for Burnside rifles. As to cost, it takes time to get your money back

As to you looking for used equipment, there is nothing I do not have, I do not the know area you are in, as to color? I am color coordinated, green in in 6 drawers, orange in one drawer, blue in 4 drawers, etc.. The green goes back to lime fiber boxes, green fiber boxes then the different types of plastic boxes.

Then there is the Brown wrinkled Herters equipment, someone might ask. “ What is it other reloaders have I do not have? Walls! They have walls, all of my walls are 3 ft.” away.

Anyhow, contact me, I will put something together, color? mix and match or color coordinated?

F. Guffey

Scales? I have scales, lots of scales, brown, green, red and case trimmers.

[engineermike]

The dies and the case holders are interchangeable with each other except for the Dillion Square Deal press. Berry's and Rainier are platted bullets but Missouri bullets, Penn bullets, and others manufacture lead bullet, all are good quality. As for the progressive it is a little more complex (Nothing you can't handle) but it helps to be handy with tools and some adjustment (More than a single stage press) is required. But as stated you can turn out more ammo on a progressive than a single stage press. I would also mention that a turret press will turn out more ammo than a single stage press.

[kmaldona]

So I can buy used RCBS or lee dies and put them in the Dillon?

that could save some money.

[dmazur]

So I can buy used RCBS or lee dies and put them in the Dillon?

Yes, any 7/8x14 dies will fit the 550B.

However, they should be carbide (the resizing die is the only one with a carbide insert, but usually the set is still called a "carbide" set) or you will have to use lube. And lube is the enemy of a clean powder throw...it will build up in the powder-thru expander die.

Also, you may or may not value the "quick disassemble without readjust" feature of the Dillon dies. If you shoot lead, lead can build up in the dies. It's very nice to be able to take them apart for cleaning without disturbing the setting on the toolhead.

Also, you may or may not value the "snap action" of the depriming pin on the Dillon dies. This is designed to reduce the occurrence of having a primer stick on the pin.

Also, the other dies may have a flared mouth, to help guide the case mouth into the die body. Or they may be older dies designed for single stage presses, where multiple stations and case alignment are not a concern. I understand Dillon isn't only one offering flared dies, but there are a lot of older ones out there that have essentially a square mouth.

And, as was already noted, the cost of the tools is minor, compared to the cost of components. You could save $20 or $30 on a die set, compared to Dillon. Not much of a savings...

[kmaldona]

ok I will just buy it from Dillon. Thanks for your input.

[dmazur]

I wasn't trying to be a nuisance. I've read of many happy 550B owners who use other than Dillon dies. In fact, I use Hornady dies for a couple of rifle calibers.

Dillon dies tend to work well, and IMO are well-designed.

However, you could use another brand.

My intent was to point out some design details to help you make a decision.

Good luck.

[F. Guffey]

kmaldona,

"ok I will just buy it from Dillon. Thanks for your input"

Looks as though they have you well on your way, anyhow, Blue is Dillon, Green is RCBS, Orange is Lyman, Red is Hornady/Pacific and brown is Herters.

F. Guffey