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Old December 18, 2011, 12:31 AM   #1
clem84177
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New to Reloading. Please help

I am reloading .40 S&W for my Springfield. I bought the Hornady LnL Classic Kit, Blue Dot powder, CCI primers, Hornady Case Trimmer, saved brass, and the 500 free bullets that came with the kit.

I need to get dies, locking drill, and shell holders. Anything else?

I was looking at getting the Hornady Nitride 3-Die Set 40 S&W and then I found the Lee Carbide 3-Die Set 40 S&W. Which one would you recommend and do I need a taper die?

Also, I am going to skip getting the tumbler and just use a solution consisting of water and white vinegar. Would you recommend this?

Thanks for the input!
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:40 AM   #2
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Get the Lee 4 die set. It comes with a taper crimp die. You do not need to use the crimp die as the seating die can seat and crimp. I personally do not seat and crimp in one step and use a dedicated taper crimp die.
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:41 AM   #3
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The Lee Deluxe 4 die sets with FCD have worked fine for me in a Dillon 550;
.40 S&W dies are taper crimp since it is a semi-auto cartridge.
In the dark ages, prior to tumblers, we used vinegar & water but I don't recall the mixture. The key is to remove all dirt your bass may pick up hitting the ground that will damage your dies. If you don't pick up any range brass you'll probably be OK.
You might want to consider using a faster burning powder that Blue Dot which is generally used for heavy and magnum loads. Also, a faster burning powder charges will be smaller and thus more economical.

Last edited by tom234; December 18, 2011 at 12:51 AM.
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:49 AM   #4
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I would not recommend that you skip the tumbler or use any solution to clean brass. The tumbler is a good investment, just snag the Frankford Arsenal from Midway or a Lyman or one from Cabela's, anything out there EXCEPT the crap from "Smart Reloader."

The Lee dies will work perfectly well, it includes a taper crimp/bullet seating die. The three die set will do fine, some prefer the four. (I do not)

I would not recommend Blue Dot powder, it doesn't meter very well... but then, you didn't list any powder measure. Do you plan to weigh each charge? Have you got a decent scale?
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:51 AM   #5
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I have been using the Lee 4 die sets for a while now and like them for both 9mm and 40cal. As far as cleaning, when I first started reloading I skipped the tumbler as well and messed with different solutions with poor results. I ended up getting the Cabela's 400 tumbler kit (link below) and have been VERY pleased. I just cleaned approx 2000 .223 range pickup cases (being a LE firearms instructor does have its perks, like 2000 cases for the cost of bending over and picking them up! ) and have tumble several thousand pistol cases over the time Ive had it and the thing has preformed without a hitch! Its a nice starter tumbler and it has served me well!


http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shoot...3Bcat104661180

Edit: Just looked at the price and see its on sale (64.99), you can save a cool $5!
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Last edited by compglock17; December 18, 2011 at 01:03 AM.
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:52 AM   #6
mrawesome22
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I'd get the Hornady dies. The lock rings are FAR superior and the nitride makes cases size like a hot knife through butter. I can size 454Casull brass with one finger.

A tumbler (in the future perhaps) will be one of the best investments you could make. Chronograph being number one.

EDIT: I don't know if I would trust that scale that comes in that kit either.
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Old December 18, 2011, 01:02 AM   #7
farmerboy
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Prob the Hornady dies also. I'd also skip the tumbler for now and use the vinegar and water and just a squirt if dish liquid. Just make sure they are dry when you reload and skip the chronograph forever. Just my advice.
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Old December 18, 2011, 01:11 AM   #8
Misssissippi Dave
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Calipers also good to have. Checking the overall length is something that you need to do when setting up.
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Old December 18, 2011, 01:13 AM   #9
compglock17
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+1^
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Old December 18, 2011, 01:32 AM   #10
clem84177
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I'll return the Blue Dot then. What would you guys recommend for a good brand of powder is? I know that when I looked in my Hornady book, they had mentioned Blue Dot and my neighbor had told me it was a descent powder, but then again he doesn't reload too much brass for pistol.

My scale is the one that came with the Hornady LnL Classic kit so just a simple digital scale. I have heard mixed opinions about this, but I am strapped for cash at the moment as I am a poor college kid, so I think I will stay with this until I get more money.

As for as bullet wise, I was looking at the XTP Hornady 180 gr. or Rainier LeadSafe Bullets 155 Grain Plated Flat Nose. I'm torn between the two. They both seem like a good bullet, though the price is a bit different. Opinions?

I want to thank you all again for all these responses!

I forgot to mention in my first post that I do have a caliper.
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Old December 18, 2011, 01:43 AM   #11
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Xtp are jacketed with lead core meant to expand on deer and for self defense purposes.

Rainer is just lead with a very, very thin copper plating.

Just depends on intended use as to what bullets to buy.
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Old December 18, 2011, 05:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
I'll return the Blue Dot then. What would you guys recommend for a good brand of powder is? I know that when I looked in my Hornady book, they had mentioned Blue Dot and my neighbor had told me it was a descent powder, but then again he doesn't reload too much brass for pistol.
I like Power Pistol for med to hot loads and Bullseye for lighter loads.
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Old December 18, 2011, 06:32 AM   #13
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I use W231 a lot. It is a good versatile powder for various calibers, I use it in .38 Spl, 9mm, .40, and I even have used it successfully for .44 Mag.
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Old December 18, 2011, 09:24 AM   #14
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W231 is good for light to medium loads. HP-38 is the same powder and often is a little cheaper to buy. It works pretty good and measures well in most powder measures. WSF and WST are also good powders to use. For hot loads you do need to use a slower burning powder.

Powders like 700X and 800X are probably too fast and they don't measure consistantly out of measures because they are flake powders. They can be used if you weigh every single charge. It is easy to get to the max. pressure and beyond with them even if you didn't intend to do that. I would suggest not using them.
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Old December 18, 2011, 09:25 AM   #15
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Win 231 will serve you well for any non-mag caliber.

Jim
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Old December 18, 2011, 09:39 AM   #16
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Win 231, very versatile. You could also use a case trimmer as the lengths of used brass tend to vary.
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Old December 18, 2011, 10:20 AM   #17
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I am using HP-38 and working on Tightgroup for my powders. As for the vinegar I use a 50/50 (Vinegar and Water) solution for all my house cleaning needs and once in a while I use it on my car. Not sure what it will do for case cleaning but give it a try and see if you like it. If it works let me know, but case cleaning makes it a lot easier to see the flaws in your used brass.
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Old December 18, 2011, 10:56 AM   #18
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I like HS6 and Tightgroup.
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:16 PM   #19
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You will not need the case trimmer for 40SW. You will need it for rifle cases or I trim .357 mag and .44 mag cases just so that I get a consistent roll crimp. For taper crimping exact length isn't critical. Check the Hornady 40SW die set you plan to buy. Older die sets DO NOT taper crimp. Hornady just recently added the taper crimp feature to their seating die. Check with Hornady if you have questions about their dies taper crimping. I find it helpful to have a separate taper crimp die. Seat with one die and taper crimp with the other. I wouldn't recommend Blue Dot either.
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:25 PM   #20
brickeyee
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Read the loading book sections on how to reload, and a copy of 'The ABC's Of Reloading' would be worth your time.


If you know anyone with experience reloading invite them over to help you set things up.
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Old December 18, 2011, 12:30 PM   #21
dahermit
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Quote:
I need to get dies, locking drill, and shell holders.
A "...locking drill..."? What is a locking drill and what is it used for?
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Old December 18, 2011, 11:53 PM   #22
Sevens
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Quote:
Older die sets DO NOT taper crimp.
First time I've ever come across this idea.

The oldest die set that I bought new was my first-- 1988, Lee .38/.357 carbide, and it does a fine roll crimp.

The oldest set of dies that I use are Lyman All-American, pre-carbide, .357 Magnum, and these are from 1977. The bullet seater from this set does a terrific roll crimp.

Is there anyone else that has seen what I've quoted here? NOT saying you are wrong, just that I've not seen this before and I'm learning also.
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Old December 18, 2011, 11:58 PM   #23
Jim Watson
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'S right, they do a fine ROLL crimp.
Taper crimps remained a mystery to loaders and die makers for longer.
When I started loading .45 ACP and heard about the advantages of a taper crimp, I got one - sort of - by bumping the loaded round back into the sizing die set down one turn below contact with the case mouth.
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Old December 19, 2011, 12:04 AM   #24
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I prefer a taper crimp on revolver cartridges. Seems easier to control.
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Old December 19, 2011, 10:04 AM   #25
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Didn't see a bullet puller mentioned. At some point you'll need one to disassemble cartridges.
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