Call Me a Home Gunsmith (CZ75 Polish Before and After)

sven · August 10, 2002, 03:00 PM

Today I polished the barrel shroud on my CZ-75B. The reason I did this was purely for aesthetics, but also I read that it might improve the 'butteryness' of the slide action.

The results are shown below.

Before:

After:

And last, but not least, to prove that this really is a 'mirror' shine, here is something to reflect upon:

Thanks to everyone for your advice on how to perform this operation. (Threads: TFL GT CZForum )

I used 1500 grit sandpaper and then moved to the dremel at setting 3 using Flitz. Let me give a summary of what I learned in the process:

-The local Home Depot does not carry sandpaper with grit higher than 400. However, the local, independent Ace Hardware _did_ have exactly what I needed. Lesson: buy local.

-Sand/polish with the grain of your metal. I was advised by a local Gunsmith to polish this barrel the direction the slide moves (normal to the path of the bullet).

-Fine grit sandpapers get 'choked up' with metal dust pretty quickly. That said, your first few passes will have the most impact on the metal. You can use the choked paper for essentially a finer grit polish, but be careful not to move while you are polishing - even slowly, the non perpendicular lines will show in the polish.

-When you move to a new spot, start your hand moving back and forth in the plane you wish to sand/polish, and then gradually lower the sanding surface, like a record player arm. Use the reverse procedure when disengaging.

-Speed three on the Dremel seems right for polishing. I used the small felt disc at first, then moving to the 'bullet' shaped tip for the final polish. Make sure you have all minor knicks cleaned before you start polishing... you do not want to 'polish' a groove into your part trying to perfect. Flitz is very gentle. I also had the Dremel compound (No. 421) but did not use it.

-Polish by hand for the final touch.

-

I'm curious to see how this stands up with repeated firing. All told, I put two hours into this project and I am very happy with the results.

Now my interest is piqued - I'm not getting Dremel-happy or anything, but I am curious how to perform my own trigger job on this gun.

As usual, I will take one small step at a time, and ask lots of questions.

Anyhow, that's my story! Have a nice weekend.

-Sven in CA

Ledbetter · August 12, 2002, 01:57 PM

I may have to do the same thing to mine. Congratulations.

**4V50 Gary** · August 12, 2002, 02:45 PM

Tell me when you're bored. I'll send you some work.

Lefty · August 12, 2002, 06:32 PM

IMHO unless your a skilled machinist/home-tinker/engineer-type, forget about honing any trigger surface on the -75B models.

What I do advise is to polish them by hand using Flitz, then degrease with lighter fluid (naptha) as it leaves no residue. Then apply Brownell's 2-part moly "Action Magic II" to all trigger/sear surfaces.

In over a dozen tests I've done on everything from a Clark trigger to a benchrest-type trigger, no trigger fails to lose at least a pound, as long as it measures > 2 or 3.

It will take a heavy DA revolver pull down at least 4 or > pounds. The lighter the trigger already, the less the reduction, but man dies it smoothen everything up! Being a dry compound that you burnish into the pores of the metal, it is pretty much permanent and maybe, maybe needs an every other year touch-up if that firearm was shot a lot.

It is AWESOME stuff ... $22 for a lifetime supply ... not sure why others don't know of this stuff - it's great! Tight Groups

!!

Lefty · August 13, 2002, 07:26 PM

Sven:

Forgive me, I should have commented on your polishing work 1st ...

. . . AWESOME job there

!

kahr Carrier · August 14, 2002, 09:59 PM

LOOKS NICE!!

ejudasf · August 23, 2002, 05:39 PM

No that's nice and shiney!

DMK · August 28, 2002, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Fine grit sandpapers get 'choked up' with metal dust pretty quickly.

Were you "wet sanding"?

Sanding or filing with a little oil helps to keep the abrasives from clogging up. It also makes them easier to clean.

August 10, 2002, 03:00 PM	#1
sven Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2002 Location: Palo Alto, California Posts: 532	Call Me a Home Gunsmith (CZ75 Polish Before and After) Today I polished the barrel shroud on my CZ-75B. The reason I did this was purely for aesthetics, but also I read that it might improve the 'butteryness' of the slide action. The results are shown below. Before: After: And last, but not least, to prove that this really is a 'mirror' shine, here is something to reflect upon: Thanks to everyone for your advice on how to perform this operation. (Threads: TFL GT CZForum ) I used 1500 grit sandpaper and then moved to the dremel at setting 3 using Flitz. Let me give a summary of what I learned in the process: -The local Home Depot does not carry sandpaper with grit higher than 400. However, the local, independent Ace Hardware _did_ have exactly what I needed. Lesson: buy local. -Sand/polish with the grain of your metal. I was advised by a local Gunsmith to polish this barrel the direction the slide moves (normal to the path of the bullet). -Fine grit sandpapers get 'choked up' with metal dust pretty quickly. That said, your first few passes will have the most impact on the metal. You can use the choked paper for essentially a finer grit polish, but be careful not to move while you are polishing - even slowly, the non perpendicular lines will show in the polish. -When you move to a new spot, start your hand moving back and forth in the plane you wish to sand/polish, and then gradually lower the sanding surface, like a record player arm. Use the reverse procedure when disengaging. -Speed three on the Dremel seems right for polishing. I used the small felt disc at first, then moving to the 'bullet' shaped tip for the final polish. Make sure you have all minor knicks cleaned before you start polishing... you do not want to 'polish' a groove into your part trying to perfect. Flitz is very gentle. I also had the Dremel compound (No. 421) but did not use it. -Polish by hand for the final touch. - I'm curious to see how this stands up with repeated firing. All told, I put two hours into this project and I am very happy with the results. Now my interest is piqued - I'm not getting Dremel-happy or anything, but I am curious how to perform my own trigger job on this gun. As usual, I will take one small step at a time, and ask lots of questions. Anyhow, that's my story! Have a nice weekend. -Sven in CA

August 12, 2002, 01:57 PM	#2
Ledbetter Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2000 Location: California USA Posts: 4,533	Well done! I may have to do the same thing to mine. Congratulations.

August 12, 2002, 02:45 PM	#3
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,840	Well done & first dibs... Tell me when you're bored. I'll send you some work. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

August 14, 2002, 09:59 PM	#6
kahr Carrier Senior Member Join Date: January 25, 2002 Posts: 367	LOOKS NICE!! __________________ " Have gun will travel" Springfield if your listening make a 10mm 1911.

August 23, 2002, 05:39 PM	#7
ejudasf Member Join Date: March 29, 2002 Posts: 15	excellent No that's nice and shiney!

August 12, 2002, 06:32 PM	#4
Lefty Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2000 Location: Mass - the cradle of liberty!! Posts: 106	IMHO unless your a skilled machinist/home-tinker/engineer-type, forget about honing any trigger surface on the -75B models. What I do advise is to polish them by hand using Flitz, then degrease with lighter fluid (naptha) as it leaves no residue. Then apply Brownell's 2-part moly "Action Magic II" to all trigger/sear surfaces. In over a dozen tests I've done on everything from a Clark trigger to a benchrest-type trigger, no trigger fails to lose at least a pound, as long as it measures > 2 or 3. It will take a heavy DA revolver pull down at least 4 or > pounds. The lighter the trigger already, the less the reduction, but man dies it smoothen everything up! Being a dry compound that you burnish into the pores of the metal, it is pretty much permanent and maybe, maybe needs an every other year touch-up if that firearm was shot a lot. It is AWESOME stuff ... $22 for a lifetime supply ... not sure why others don't know of this stuff - it's great! Tight Groups !!

August 13, 2002, 07:26 PM	#5
Lefty Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2000 Location: Mass - the cradle of liberty!! Posts: 106	Sven: Forgive me, I should have commented on your polishing work 1st ... . . . AWESOME job there !