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June 26, 2001, 09:57 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: April 26, 2000
Location: Texas
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Glock .40 Reloading Advice
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I'm about to purchase reloading equipment. I'm going back and forth between starting with a Forster Co-Ax and a Dillon 650. I've purchased an aftermarket barrel that is "more" supported in my Glock 35. Just received my American Rifleman and they suggest starting with a single stage press. I shoot about 300 - 400 rounds per month. Will load light and not be using 180 grain bullets. I've been going crazy using the search option, so decided to post my questions? 1. What suggestions regarding loading .40? A. Taper crimp best? RCBS has a four die carbide set that seats and crimps using separate dies. Any experience with these? B. Is it best to full length resize? Which die? C. Best to start Single, or Progressive, or resize single and use progressive? D. Any other suggestions? |
June 27, 2001, 06:02 AM | #2 |
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Please e-mail me direct.
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June 28, 2001, 12:16 AM | #3 |
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Got Started..Much to Learn
I didn’t receive a response to my questions, so I purchased some basic equipment. I bought a Rockchucker Press Master Kit. The Kit was on sale at Midway and so I went for it. Pact electronic scale/powder dispenser, Lyman electronic calipers, Redding carbide dies for .40, 9mm and Redding Deluxe .223 dies, Lee’s Factory Crimp Dies, Berry’s tumbler/vibrator/strainer, RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep. Center, bullet puller, headspace gauge (.223 & 9mm..couldn’t find .40), case loading blocks and die storage box. Also, picked up two load books. I'm looking for a workbench.
So, I’m going to start slow and then buy the Dillon 650 after starting with the Rockchucker. My wife isn't thrilled with having all this in the house, but my workshop is just too dusty and dirty. Open to any suggestions regarding the safe loading of .40. |
June 28, 2001, 01:32 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: August 9, 1999
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I won't buy a Glock - but my CZ-75 is in 40S&W too. Initially I had brass marking due to fgeed problems without a mild taper-crimp. Solved easily.
I used LEE carbide dies, once fired Winchester brass on a Rockchucker, LEE Auto-prime, W548 and WSP primers. Be sure of your OAL this cal can be sensitive, mild taper-crimp advisable, start with X10 loads low and build up by 10% to what you want. Avoid a KB...... I used a SWC150gn lead at FPS1,050. Nice load, cheap(free) brass. Have fun -safely!
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June 28, 2001, 01:57 AM | #5 |
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Forty S&W and a Glock pistol? You picked a heck of a combination to start reloading! Not that it can't be done, but 40 is already difficult enough. The cartridge is very AOL and crimp sensitive. And, shooting reloads through an unsupported chamber does require some extra precautions. But I also see that you made the right move and got the after market barrel. Battle is more than half won.
> Start with NEW brass only! > NEVER use once fired or any brass of unknown origin. Shooting 40 S&W in my G35 has become a favorite of mine. After reloading for it for over a year, decided to get the after market barrel. Shot exclusively reloads and lead bullets and never had a problem with this gun. Gun seems to like 155 grain RSWC over Winchester 231 powder. Good luck Robert |
June 28, 2001, 09:25 AM | #6 |
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The choice of caliber was mine. We could have picked 9mm. The Glock is for my very small wife. We picked .40 because I shoot mostly .40 in my P7M10. Also, I had two high cap magazines for the gun. In California, you can't get high caps. We picked this particular model because it was the only California available gun that fit Amy's hand AND she could rack the slide. Only the Sigs and Glocks met both of these requirements and didn't like the DA/SA trigger on the Sigs. All these things meant that I needed a load similar to 9mm, but out of a .40. I want low recoil. I picked up some Remington 155 grain FMJ bullets. I understand that slow burning powders are best for lower recoil. So, I need to find a good powder/primer recipe. I was going to use brass shot out of my P7M10, or Sig. I haven't noticed any unsupported brass bulges in my brass.
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June 28, 2001, 12:01 PM | #7 |
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Location: N. Calif.
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Hello,
The 40 cal. is one of my favorites because it is a little more complicated and interesting. I have been experimenting and handloading 40 for about 8 years. I use RCBS carbide dies with a Dillon bell/powder measure and a Lee factory crimp die. The guns I load for are a Glock 22 with a Wilson match barrel and a Glock 23 with a Barstow match barrel. Both barrels have chamber diameters of .426". The stock Glock barrel has .430". These barrels reduce the unsupported area significantly. The case is not unsupported past the thick web area. I also use a extra power recoil spring to slow unlocking slightly which also reduces expansion of the case. I found that with the tighter chambers, the Lee Factory crimp die eliminated problems such as failure to go fully into battery. It smooths out any bumps in the loaded round. With full power loads, case expansion is minimal; approx. .426-.427. I also load the 40 cal. to the max. oveall length the will fit the magazine and chamber and still feed and chamber. For my guns, it is 1.150". The longer oal reduces pressure a little bit and enhances accuracy. The very first thing to do before handloading for you gun is to measure the chamber diameter, and the feed ramp inclusion. Compare it with the stock barrel. The next thing to do is fire some factory rounds in the new barrel and measure the spent cases to see what the expanded diameter is. Hopefully it will be small. One of my favorite loads which combines power, accuracy and function is the following. case- Rem or Win bullet- Laser Cast 170 gr. swc .401" primer- Win. small pistol powder- Alliant Herco - 5.8-5.9 grains. OAL- 1.150" vel.- approx. 1000-1050 fps. I have reloaded my brass 5 times with no problems. After 5 loadings, I get rid of it just to be careful. Sorry about the book. You can e-mail me with more questions if you want. Take care, Jeff |
July 5, 2001, 05:37 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: December 5, 1999
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA
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Nothing wrong with the 40SW Glocks.
The 40SW and glock combo was funky a couple years ago due to fast powders and lead bullets but ask your local police department, they aren't kabooming on them. cheap gun show reloads and thrid world ammo makers using inferior powders are to blame. Use a good slow powder and a FMJ or an aftermarket barrel and a hard cast lead bullet and stay within SAAMI pressure and powder manufacturer limits and you will be fine.
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The Seattle SharpShooter Reloaded .223 Rem, 9mm, 40SW, 357 SIG, 10mm, 44 Mag, 45 ACP Today? |
July 5, 2001, 10:40 PM | #9 |
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PROVEN LOAD
180g TCJ-FP, any not-from-Glock once-fired or Starline new case, CCI500, 6.0g Alliant Power Pistol, OAL 1.127-1.135", finish using LEE Carbide Factory Crimp die.
Accurate, goes about 920ish from a 4-4.5", very accurate in most guns, clean, fairly mild recoil as 40's go, safe (if done correctly), reliable in both feed and extraction.
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. "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo" |
July 5, 2001, 11:56 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: April 26, 2000
Location: Texas
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Wehoot2:
I have come to understand that 180 grain bullets were a potential problem should setback take place. I'm beginning to get my equipment. Also, ordered 155 grain bullets based on the idea that lighter = less recoil and setback not as much of a problem and found them at a good price, or I probably would have gone even lighter. You have a great deal of loading experience. So, there must be another side to the 180 grain story. |
July 6, 2001, 07:50 AM | #11 |
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I minimize the risk of setback by using correct cases and sizing dies.
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