TC White Mountain Flint Lock Won't Fire?

RattleSnake Jake · September 1, 2007, 10:46 PM

All of my black powder shooting has been done with percussion rifles.

I bought a TC White Mountain Flint Lock about 12 years ago and put it over my cabin's fireplace as a decoration. We sold the cabin, so I thought that I'd bring it as a back up to my Hawkin rifle during an up coming elk hunt.

Long story short, I couldn't get it to fire while sighting it in at the range. It had the factory original flint, I was using Pyrodex P, a FFFg equivelent in the pan.

I had two problems that I'm aware of:
One, I wasn't getting much spark to ignite the powder in the pan.

Two, When the pan did ignit (only twice out of 25+ attempts), it wouldn't set off the main charge in the chamber.

The flash hole into the chamber charge was "picked" and as far as I could tell, unobstructed. No oil or cleaning fluids in the chamber either.

I'm stumped.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Raider2000 · September 2, 2007, 04:36 AM

I've shot a friend of mine's older flint Hawken rifle & he used FFFFG Black Powder for the pan charge & FFG Black Powder for his main charge "same as my Percussion Hawken."

If your Flint isn't making a lot of spark, my question is.
Is your Flint Knapped right?
When you stored your Flint Rifle, did you store it with the hammer at half cock or all the way down?

lonewolf5348 · September 2, 2007, 05:43 AM

First let me say t/c flints garbage throw them away find yourself some tom fuller black English flints.
Pyrodex in a flinter no way it will ever fire unless you drop some real black first before the main charge:I would say 5 to 10 grains of real black then add the main charge of pyrodex powder.
I would use goex 3F in all my t/c flinters and 4F in the pan:remember the pan charge is about 2 grains don't fill the pan with powder it will take longer to set the main charge off.I use 2 grains in the pan and when possible tap the powder away from the touch hole.
I would also use t/c new vent liner plug<newer type installs with a Allen key the older type uses the screw driver slot; I would also check and see if the hammer on the lock is the newer style t/c change the hammer a few years back but you will have to return the lock to them for a free upgrade or remove your hammer and send them the hammer asking for the new style hammer.

**4V50 Gary** · September 2, 2007, 10:17 AM

Yep, change the flint and use real black powder in the pan.

gopher0 · September 3, 2007, 07:37 AM

Again .....4f in the pan

robhof · September 17, 2007, 11:55 PM

I had the same problem when I first started with flintlocks. Real Bp and ffffg in the pan is the only way to go and always carry a spare flint and alcohol wipes; even a little oil from your hands can retard a spark. Avoid touching the frizzen except with a dry cloth or an unlubed patch. Clean the face of the frizzen and the flint with alcohol only and be sure they are completely dry before firing. The old timers used to load with a small feather or pick in the touch hole and as said above; a partial pan insures a quicker fire. A full pan or touch hole will act like a fuse and delay the firing time. It'll take practice to get the right combo.

September 1, 2007, 10:46 PM	#1
RattleSnake Jake Member Join Date: May 24, 2006 Location: Rocky Mountains Posts: 19	TC White Mountain Flint Lock Won't Fire? All of my black powder shooting has been done with percussion rifles. I bought a TC White Mountain Flint Lock about 12 years ago and put it over my cabin's fireplace as a decoration. We sold the cabin, so I thought that I'd bring it as a back up to my Hawkin rifle during an up coming elk hunt. Long story short, I couldn't get it to fire while sighting it in at the range. It had the factory original flint, I was using Pyrodex P, a FFFg equivelent in the pan. I had two problems that I'm aware of: One, I wasn't getting much spark to ignite the powder in the pan. Two, When the pan did ignit (only twice out of 25+ attempts), it wouldn't set off the main charge in the chamber. The flash hole into the chamber charge was "picked" and as far as I could tell, unobstructed. No oil or cleaning fluids in the chamber either. I'm stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated. __________________ RattleSnake Jake To Lazy to Work To Nervous to Steal To Jelous to Pimp NRA Lifer

September 2, 2007, 05:43 AM	#3
lonewolf5348 Member Join Date: January 20, 2006 Posts: 93	flint question First let me say t/c flints garbage throw them away find yourself some tom fuller black English flints. Pyrodex in a flinter no way it will ever fire unless you drop some real black first before the main charge:I would say 5 to 10 grains of real black then add the main charge of pyrodex powder. I would use goex 3F in all my t/c flinters and 4F in the pan:remember the pan charge is about 2 grains don't fill the pan with powder it will take longer to set the main charge off.I use 2 grains in the pan and when possible tap the powder away from the touch hole. I would also use t/c new vent liner plug<newer type installs with a Allen key the older type uses the screw driver slot; I would also check and see if the hammer on the lock is the newer style t/c change the hammer a few years back but you will have to return the lock to them for a free upgrade or remove your hammer and send them the hammer asking for the new style hammer.

September 2, 2007, 10:17 AM	#4
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,833	Yep, change the flint and use real black powder in the pan. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

September 3, 2007, 07:37 AM	#5
gopher0 Member Join Date: May 22, 2007 Posts: 33	Again .....4f in the pan __________________ When outnumbered 2 to 1. Shoot twice! Gopher

September 17, 2007, 11:55 PM	#6
robhof Senior Member Join Date: September 16, 2007 Posts: 712	robhof I had the same problem when I first started with flintlocks. Real Bp and ffffg in the pan is the only way to go and always carry a spare flint and alcohol wipes; even a little oil from your hands can retard a spark. Avoid touching the frizzen except with a dry cloth or an unlubed patch. Clean the face of the frizzen and the flint with alcohol only and be sure they are completely dry before firing. The old timers used to load with a small feather or pick in the touch hole and as said above; a partial pan insures a quicker fire. A full pan or touch hole will act like a fuse and delay the firing time. It'll take practice to get the right combo.

September 2, 2007, 04:36 AM	#2
Raider2000 Senior Member Join Date: July 23, 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 719	I've shot a friend of mine's older flint Hawken rifle & he used FFFFG Black Powder for the pan charge & FFG Black Powder for his main charge "same as my Percussion Hawken." If your Flint isn't making a lot of spark, my question is. Is your Flint Knapped right? When you stored your Flint Rifle, did you store it with the hammer at half cock or all the way down?