Cleaning cylinder face on blued gun

[AK103K]

Carbon, no, but lead, it definitely does.

[rclark]

What doesn't come with Hoppes #9 and a simple wipe... Stays. And I've shot a lot of Rugers and all I shoot is lead bullets too. I've never quite understood why it is a problem to some.

[AK103K]

My worst problem was with those couple of Ruger Blackhawks that had tight cylinder gaps, and the lead would bind them up pretty quick if you didnt keep them clean. It was pretty annoying.

Powder fouling usually isnt an issue with most of them, but I just see it as part of cleaning the gun.

[Rogervzv]

What doesn't come with Hoppes #9 and a simple wipe... Stays. And I've shot a lot of Rugers and all I shoot is lead bullets too. I've never quite understood why it is a problem to some.

Well, this seems to be the approach that I am taking. I do wish I could get all the crud off the cylinder face but I am not sure that there is any way to do it without damaging the bluing. No big deal, I suppose.

[power5]

Try a magic eraser. I have not tried one on a blue gun, but they do magic on other things I cannot get clean with even alcohol.

[AustinTX]

Try a magic eraser. I have not tried one on a blue gun, but they do magic on other things I cannot get clean with even alcohol.

Gawd no, don't do this!

This is exactly the sort of thing I'm talking about -- getting over-inventive about removing inert stuff that causes no problems. Why, why, why? Just stick to the standard ways of doing this stuff. I guess it's easy to recommend this when it's not your gun. A magic eraser is abrasive. Do not use this product on a blued cylinder face if you would like to keep the bluing.

[Model12Win]

I find a fresh Squirrel's hide with a 1/1 mix of Murphy's oil soap and a can of Cambell's (must be Cambell's) tomato soup works well. Mix the soap and soup, lather up the squirrel hide and toss the whole thing at the front of the cylinder about 80-85 times. No more, no less. I've used this method for 70 years and it works better than anything else I've tried, and God knows I've tried.

KIDDING!

I soak a patch with Hoppe's No. 9 solvent, slather it on the cylinder face (and forcing cone) and leave it sit for about 15 minutes. Next, use a stiff bristle brush and scrub everything down, then wipe clean. Rinse and repeat if you want.

[Hook686]

The way I look at it is a slight ring buildup will reduce the cylinder to barrel distance giving an increase in pressure across the cylinder gap, for a reduction in pressure loss and thus more velocity down the barrel. Why increase the cylinder/barrel gap by scrubbing on it ?

[JohnKSa]

...a slight ring buildup will reduce the cylinder to barrel distance giving an increase in pressure across the cylinder gap...

I've never been able to detect a buildup. I've always had the impression that the carbon scoring is more of a stain in the metal than it is a buildup.

The fact that it usually takes some sort of abrasive or aggressive mechanical methods (e.g. steel toothbrush) to remove the markings seems to support the idea that it's something that actually alters the surface layer of the metal and that removing it requires the removal of a layer of metal--albeit a very thin layer.

[CajunBass]

I spray it with Gunscrubber, wipe it off with an old T-Shirt, and forget about it.

Anything that doesn't come off is supposed to be there.

[larryf1952]

Well, don't I feel sheepish? I'm one who won't put a gun away dirty. Anywhere. I guess it's a character flaw. Here's an example of a blued .45 Blackhawk after about 400 rounds, and after cleaning the cylinder face and everywhere else, for that matter.

I use Iosso Gunbrite polish and a nylon bristle brush on the cylinder face. Bluing will withstand several cleanings like this, but if one does it repeatedly, the polish will lighten the bluing. That's just the way it is with blued guns. This blued Blackhawk has been cleaned 3 times. I'm not recommending that anyone try this method. I'm only saying that it works for me.

That's why I only buy stainless these days.



This stainless Blackhawk was black with crud before cleaning the cylinder face with Gunbrite...

[JohnKSa]

I'm one who won't put a gun away dirty.

It's not clear that carbon scoring is actually "dirt" or fouling in the conventional sense. As mentioned, it doesn't appear to be a buildup or deposit but is more characteristic of a stain or coloration in the metal resulting from firing.

...if one does it repeatedly, the polish will lighten the bluing...

This is what I'm talking about. If removing carbon scoring repeatedly involves removing the finish too, that suggests to me that it's not really a fouling or buildup on top of the finish. It suggests that it's actually staining/altering the metal/metal finish and therefore removing it requires removing some of the metal/metal finish.

It's your gun, and you're welcome to clean it as vigorously as you wish, but I think that it's probably a little overboard to suggest that people who don't polish the carbon scoring (and eventually the finish) from the front of their cylinders aren't taking proper care of their revolvers.

[Hammer It]

Hello Rogervzv
I have found that the easiest way of ridding the cylinder face of carbon from shooting it, was to use a Chore Boy scouring Pad and Hoppe's Number Nine solvent. This method will not harm the bluing of the cylinder face as the copper scouring pad and Hoppe's work really well when used together. Most grocery stores have the Chore Boy copper scouring pad's in their home cleaning aisle. I Hope this Help's, Hammer It

[AustinTX]

Well, don't I feel sheepish? I'm one who won't put a gun away dirty. Anywhere. I guess it's a character flaw. Here's an example of a blued .45 Blackhawk after about 400 rounds, and after cleaning the cylinder face and everywhere else, for that matter.

I use Iosso Gunbrite polish and a nylon bristle brush on the cylinder face. Bluing will withstand several cleanings like this, but if one does it repeatedly, the polish will lighten the bluing. That's just the way it is with blued guns.

Like John said, your mistaken assumption is that you're actually "cleaning" something. Steel with carbon scoring is not dirty. Removing metal with polishing compound may satisfy some kind of personal compulsion, but it's not cleaning anything. It's just removing metal (or the bluing).

That's why I only buy stainless these days.

Stainless may not have a visible oxide layer to show you what you're doing, but you're still just removing perfectly functional carbon-scored steel in order to get to new steel beneath it.

[AK103K]

but you're still just removing perfectly functional carbon-scored steel in order to get to new steel beneath it.

If this were the case, would you not also be removing the bluing on the blued guns?

I clean it off the face of both my SS and blued guns, and the bluing is still in place on the blued guns, and really shows no wear on it.

[larryf1952]

...This is what I'm talking about. If removing carbon scoring repeatedly involves removing the finish too, that suggests to me that it's not really a fouling or buildup on top of the finish. It suggests that it's actually staining/altering the metal/metal finish and therefore removing it requires removing some of the metal/metal finish.

It's your gun, and you're welcome to clean it as vigorously as you wish, but I think that it's probably a little overboard to suggest that people who don't polish the carbon scoring (and eventually the finish) from the front of their cylinders aren't taking proper care of their revolvers.

I understand what you are saying. I will simply state that, in the few times that I have used my method for cleaning these guns, the blued finish has not appeared to be adversely affected.

Having said that, I also understand that if I do this enough, the finish will, indeed, be worn away. I know that there is a limit to the number of times that this can be done. I understand that any polish, however mildly abrasive it might be, will eventually wear away the surface material. That's what polish does. In my case, I'll never shoot my guns enough, nor clean them enough times for this to be a concern.

I meant no slight or offense to people who obviously don't share my enthusiasm for cleaning their handguns to the extent that I do. I realize that I am OCD in many others' eyes. But, if a gun is covered in fouling, it appears "dirty" to me, whether it is actually dirty or not. I don't judge anyone for it, I just prefer not to see it on my guns, and I seem to be in the obvious minority in that regard. Perhaps, since I made my career in broadcast television, where I maintained and repaired small precision mechanical and electronic systems every day, I developed an attitude for being patient and meticulous. As I said, I don't recommend or expect anyone else to do this, but, by the same token, I appreciate not being criticized for it, either.

[AustinTX]

If this were the case, would you not also be removing the bluing on the blued guns?

I clean it off the face of both my SS and blued guns, and the bluing is still in place on the blued guns, and really shows no wear on it.

Depends on what you're doing to clean it. If you aren't using a polish on the cylinder face, then you aren't removing steel or bluing. If you are using a polish, then you are ipso facto subtracting steel or bluing from the surface beyond just the fouling, regardless of whether or not you're able to see at this point that this is taking place. Polishing a metal surface or its finish by definition entails abrading that surface, and it is not possible to abrade a metal surface or its finish without removing some amount of the metal or its finish.

But, if a gun is covered in fouling, it appears "dirty" to me, whether it is actually dirty or not.

I understand where you're coming from, and it seems that you're well aware of what you're doing and its implications, but I just wanted to be clear for the sake of precise terminology that carbon fouling and carbon scoring aren't the same thing. A gun with carbon fouling is a dirty gun.