Bought 1st Reloader, couple of ??'s

SMITH910 · February 6, 2006, 10:43 AM

Just bought a Lee single stage anniversary kit reloader yesterday, it should come in in 3 - 4 days. Two questions. I will start reloading .223. But for 9mm in the near future I see Lee has a "Carbide Speed Die" available for 5 different cartridges. The site says for single stage dies it is quicker because this one die does it all???? Anybody have this? How does it work?

Also, for powder for the .223, what is a good simple powder that would be easy to get and economical? I'll just be doing 100 and 200 yard benchrest shooting with it. I am new, but guess that certain powders don't need as "much" grains per cartridge vs. some other powders........

Thanks!

Wild Bill Bucks · February 6, 2006, 12:49 PM

Can't tell you much about Lee, I own RCBS, but I can tell you if you are new to re-loading to be sure and read your manuel closely BEFORE trying to set your dyes or do ANY reloading.
For 223, It is hard to beat Varget powder. It's burn rate is about "middle of the road" and can be loaded in lot's of different calibers.
You will find that when you use powders that are specific to certain calibers, you will have lots of different powders sitting around. It is far more economical to use as few powders as you can that will work in the ammunition you load.
When you look at the different calibers you can use Varget on, you will see it is good for Lots of different ones and is very accurate in most all of them.
7000 grains per pound won't mean much if 3000 grains sits in the cuppard not being used.
Keep all powders cool and dry, and don't cross contaminate one powder to another. If you open a keg of powder, be sure to use from it until it is gone.
Don't put it over in another container( even of the same type) or you run the risk of contaminating the new keg.
Powders are not bad to ruin as long as you are careful, but they will draw moisture if you have them in a place that gets hot and cold frequently.

READ your instruction manuel ,and try to find someone KNOWLEDGABLE to help you set up your dyes and equipment. If you start out wrong you can ruin a lot of shells and develope some bad habits to get into.
Reloading is very cost efficient and is a great source of relaxation, and a good hobby, but it should be entered into carefully and with as much input from other loaders as you can get.

Sorry I can't help with your Lee loader. Hope you find it as much fun as I do.

Jim Watson · February 6, 2006, 01:05 PM

The Lee Speed Die uses one die BODY for all steps. You still have to change out the sizing insert, the expander insert, the seating plug. I'd get a regular set of dies, get each one adjusted, and go with that. It doesn't take long to screw in the next die and you don't do it often if you are running in batches of a hundred or more.

Varget is indeed a good powder for .223 and other cartridges of similar case capacity to caliber relationship... like .308.

You will, of course, need a pistol powder for the 9mm. Since you have been recommended a Hodgdon rifle powder, their Titegroup or HP38 are good for factory equivalent 9mm loads, and for most other non-magnum pistol and revolver calibres.

Read the book.

Leftoverdj · February 6, 2006, 01:09 PM

I've always used standard carbide three die sets for pistol cartridges. I know they work. The Lee Speed die has been around a long time time and has not caught on. The little I have heard about it has been negative.

I don't mind swapping dies because I do large batches. If you do short runs and use Lee dies, you might want to spent a few bucks for RCBS type rings. Once set, no adjustment is needed with those. The Lee rings are easier to adjust exactly, but they take a little fiddling every time you screw them back in.

SMITH910 · February 6, 2006, 03:24 PM

I appreciate the reply and will look into those two types of powders for .223 and 9mm. I'm assuming this manual comes with the Lee kit. I will get the full 3 set for the 9mm and stay clear of the speed die.

I thought I just read somewhere that you lube the inside of your rifle casing around the neck with a swab, is that correct??? I thought the lube was just outside......

Leftoverdj · February 6, 2006, 05:14 PM

Lubing the inside of the neck eases the passage of the expanded ball and may reduce case stretching. One Shot and some of te other spray ons have enough creep so you can skip this step. The swab works, but is slow. A tuna can of fine birdshot and powdered graphite works, too. Just push the case mouth in. Shot will fall free when you lift up.

February 6, 2006, 10:43 AM	#1
SMITH910 Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2005 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 282	Bought 1st Reloader, couple of ??'s Just bought a Lee single stage anniversary kit reloader yesterday, it should come in in 3 - 4 days. Two questions. I will start reloading .223. But for 9mm in the near future I see Lee has a "Carbide Speed Die" available for 5 different cartridges. The site says for single stage dies it is quicker because this one die does it all???? Anybody have this? How does it work? Also, for powder for the .223, what is a good simple powder that would be easy to get and economical? I'll just be doing 100 and 200 yard benchrest shooting with it. I am new, but guess that certain powders don't need as "much" grains per cartridge vs. some other powders........ Thanks!

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February 6, 2006, 12:49 PM	#2
Wild Bill Bucks Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2005 Location: Southeastern Oklahoma, Next door to Sasquatch Posts: 1,266	Can't tell you much about Lee, I own RCBS, but I can tell you if you are new to re-loading to be sure and read your manuel closely BEFORE trying to set your dyes or do ANY reloading. For 223, It is hard to beat Varget powder. It's burn rate is about "middle of the road" and can be loaded in lot's of different calibers. You will find that when you use powders that are specific to certain calibers, you will have lots of different powders sitting around. It is far more economical to use as few powders as you can that will work in the ammunition you load. When you look at the different calibers you can use Varget on, you will see it is good for Lots of different ones and is very accurate in most all of them. 7000 grains per pound won't mean much if 3000 grains sits in the cuppard not being used. Keep all powders cool and dry, and don't cross contaminate one powder to another. If you open a keg of powder, be sure to use from it until it is gone. Don't put it over in another container( even of the same type) or you run the risk of contaminating the new keg. Powders are not bad to ruin as long as you are careful, but they will draw moisture if you have them in a place that gets hot and cold frequently. READ your instruction manuel ,and try to find someone KNOWLEDGABLE to help you set up your dyes and equipment. If you start out wrong you can ruin a lot of shells and develope some bad habits to get into. Reloading is very cost efficient and is a great source of relaxation, and a good hobby, but it should be entered into carefully and with as much input from other loaders as you can get. Sorry I can't help with your Lee loader. Hope you find it as much fun as I do.

February 6, 2006, 01:05 PM	#3
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,529	The Lee Speed Die uses one die BODY for all steps. You still have to change out the sizing insert, the expander insert, the seating plug. I'd get a regular set of dies, get each one adjusted, and go with that. It doesn't take long to screw in the next die and you don't do it often if you are running in batches of a hundred or more. Varget is indeed a good powder for .223 and other cartridges of similar case capacity to caliber relationship... like .308. You will, of course, need a pistol powder for the 9mm. Since you have been recommended a Hodgdon rifle powder, their Titegroup or HP38 are good for factory equivalent 9mm loads, and for most other non-magnum pistol and revolver calibres. Read the book.

February 6, 2006, 01:09 PM	#4
Leftoverdj Senior Member Join Date: October 15, 2004 Posts: 934	I've always used standard carbide three die sets for pistol cartridges. I know they work. The Lee Speed die has been around a long time time and has not caught on. The little I have heard about it has been negative. I don't mind swapping dies because I do large batches. If you do short runs and use Lee dies, you might want to spent a few bucks for RCBS type rings. Once set, no adjustment is needed with those. The Lee rings are easier to adjust exactly, but they take a little fiddling every time you screw them back in.

February 6, 2006, 03:24 PM	#5
SMITH910 Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2005 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 282	I appreciate the reply and will look into those two types of powders for .223 and 9mm. I'm assuming this manual comes with the Lee kit. I will get the full 3 set for the 9mm and stay clear of the speed die. I thought I just read somewhere that you lube the inside of your rifle casing around the neck with a swab, is that correct??? I thought the lube was just outside......

February 6, 2006, 05:14 PM	#6
Leftoverdj Senior Member Join Date: October 15, 2004 Posts: 934	Lubing the inside of the neck eases the passage of the expanded ball and may reduce case stretching. One Shot and some of te other spray ons have enough creep so you can skip this step. The swab works, but is slow. A tuna can of fine birdshot and powdered graphite works, too. Just push the case mouth in. Shot will fall free when you lift up.