Case Lube

[higgite]

I use Imperial wax when I process a hand full of brass for load workups and such, and Hornady One Shot when I'm going to crank out larger batches. I did stick 2 cases with One Shot... before I re-read the instructions and gave the volatile component time to evaporate off before sizing. No more problems. I think they all work pretty much as advertised if you pay attention to their instructions.

[C7AR15]

Thanks for the info. I will stick with the wax.

Up till now I have never had a stuck case and I imagine it is a SOB to get the case removed from the die. Plus the cost of the specialty tools.
I am going to resize with wax and remove the wax with my tumbler, what could be easier?
JD

[Elkins45]

The alcohol/Lee wax spray is my choice when I have a big batch to lube.

[Xfire68]

I make my own with 99.9% alcohol and Lanolin. If left on the cases for longer than a few hours it gets tacky and needs to be sprayed again. I can make 32oz of case lube for about $8. I process 10's of thousands of pieces of 5.56 and 300 Blackout brass per month. The dies need to be regularly cleaned to remove any gummed up lube.

[rebs]

xfire, what ratio are you using ? I use 1.5 oz of lanolin to 16 oz of heet and have not noticed and residue in the dies and no sticky residue on the cases. I am doing 223 and 300 savage cases.

[Unclenick]

I've sprayed on a thin layer of Lee lube, allowed it to dry completely, then put a layer of commercial spray-on case lube over it (Midway's house brand version of One Shot). The double layering seems to prevent case sticking. I came up with this after reading how many people had trouble getting stuck cases with One Shot used by itself. But doing a 1000 cases at a time, I didn't want to give up the convenience.

[Bucksnort1]

I think I got this idea for case lube from a loader on You Tube. I bought some, tried it and I like it. Go to a health food grocery store and look for pure lanolin. For about $4, you will get a 4 oz bottle. The only problem is if your reloading location doesn't have heat, the liquid will become a bit thicker and milky in color but if you place it between your legs for a few minutes while you are prepping, all should be ok.

There is another advantage to lanolin and that is, it's ok for chapped lips and skin so if you use it and place your fingers in your mouth, you won't die.

Remember! A sucking chest wound is nature's way of telling you to slow down.

[Bucksnort1]

I did not see XFire88's response for lanolin. I am not using alcohol but maybe I will.

[Xfire68]

rebs, I found the recipe online somewhere. It is 2oz lanolin to 16oz alcohol, Maybe I will thin out a batch and see how it works out. Thanks for the tip.

[cryogenic419]

I've been using Imperial on a RCBS pad, its worked well for me.

[Magnum Wheel Man]

Since you seem very interested in trying the easy way, a word to the wise: Get a stuck case kit. With One Shot, you will need it.

I'd be willing to bet, that any stuck cases when using any of the spray lubes is either from not getting enough lube, or not waiting long enough for the alcohol to evaporate before sizing... I know it sounds like why should you have to wait... but ( & my experience has been with Frankford Arsenal spray lube ) I horribly stuck 3-4 cases using that lube, & have publicly cursed them on the forums... it was suggested that I was either over wetting, & not letting it "dry" or just trying to size them too soon... being the kind of guy that likes proof of everything, even after I swore off that brand of spray lube, I tried it again, being more patient... I've not stuck a case since... BTW, at the time, this was reloading 5.7 X 28 cases, IMO, the toughest to reload, tiny rims, lacquer coating, & grossly deformed cases make these the toughest I've ever resized, with out sticking

as a side note, my old reloading mentor suggested I try buying a new pad ( I just bought a new stamping pad from the craft shop ) then added a couple tablespoons of STP oil treatment... I never stuck another 5.7 case using that... but also never had problems with the spray lubes, if I shook before use, & waited for the alcohol to evaporate...

as another side note... I usually decap with a universal decapping tool, wet tumble with stainless pins, lube, size, re-wet tumble, seat primers, charge & seat bullet, by wet tumbling after my cases are sized, I remove all sizing lube residue, & can be sure I have the most consistent bullet / neck tension

[Xfire68]

REBs I gave it a try and yes there was less residue but it did not perform as well for my setup. I am doing a number of things on each pull. Decapping, Swagging, Trimming and resizing on 2 stations. The lighter lube required more effort from me which my banged up body only has so much of. Thanks for the tip tho.

[Marco Califo]

White Lithium Grease, available at Home Depot, is by far the best lube I have used. It makes resizing MG fired 7.62 brass easy!
I use a disposable plant fiber fabric sheet (AKA paper towel) as a pad. It has to be cleaned off after sizing. I use a tumbler for that.

[fshfindr]

I use Lee's carbide dies, so no lube.

[skizzums]

I have tried the wipe-ons, of they work but they are too slow. I have tried several homemade concoctions. they one that's best for me is Lyman spray on, a large Tupperware serving bowl and just spray and toss. spraying in the case block is too wasteful, I would use up a can in less than a thousand rounds. when tossed in the Tupperware I get more than double.

[Marco Califo]

I use Lee's carbide dies, so no lube.

Or, to put it another way . . . You use Lee carbide dies, so you do not size rifle brass. Since you do not size rifle brass, you do not need lube.

I do not lube straight walled pistol brass. I use Lee Dies, but not carbide.

[skizzums]

^^ word ^^

[fshfindr]

OK Marco, I am a pistol guy whose been loading for many years. You're right, no rifles.

[Sevens]

^if you ever tried just a teeny, tiny bit of Imperial when sizing 9mm, .44 Mag, .460 or .500 Mag, you might get addicted to using it.

should state that my concern is really about wiping the crud off after. This is where your hands get worn out.
Yah, I could throw it into a tumbler for a couple hours but I want to keep going.

Instead of putting your newly sized and still lubed brass in the tumbler for a couple of hours...

Try sticking them in the tumbler for 20 minutes and you may find that it's absolutely enough to take off the lube and get 'em ready to roll.

[C7AR15]

To Sevens,

I will try both your suggestions - using a tiny bit of wax on pistol cases , I imagine the .44 will go much easier.

Also 20 minutes in my Lyman tumbler ?? I will try it

[rox]

Another user of liquid lanolin + alcohol here.

I lube 500 cleaned .308 cases at a time, as follows:

Shake lube well.
500 cases go into a lube tray (old plastic kitchen drawer boxes).
10 squirts of lube then roll the cases around the tray around to distribute the lube.
10 squirts of lube then roll the cases around the tray
10 squirts of lube then roll the cases around the tray
Leave for at least 20 minutes to allow the alcohol to evaporate.

The lube is made from 1 part pure liquid lanolin mixed with 10 parts 99% (or 99.9%) isopropyl alcohol. It is applied using a hand sprayer (i.e. no propellant).

I've left a tray of lubed cases for a week or two (covered to prevent anything airborne sticking to them) and had no problems with the lube gumming-up.

To remove the lube after sizing I run the brass in a tumbler for about 40 minutes in ground walnut (20/40 grit) treated with an ammonia-free metal polish diluted with mineral spirits.

It is essential to allow sufficient evaporation time before processing otherwise the lube is ineffective.

Since it takes about 30 minutes to process 500 cases through the press I can have 500 cases evaporating for the next cycle, 500 running through the press in the current cycle, and 500 in the tumbler from the previous cycle, so production is practically continuous.

[Mike40-11]

I use Hornady's Unique case lube. Works great but do need to clean up afterward. I've tried a pad but but it was still pretty messy and I didn't get a real even coating. Went to just wiping it on with my fingers. Rub a couple fingers in the tub and that picks up enough to do dozens. Get's the lube evenly on the bottleneck, which I always missed with the pad.

I use a worn our bore brush to clean the inside of the necks. If I don't it's still very hard to resize no matter how well lubed the outside is.

I've tried One-Shot several times. I really want it to work, it's much cleaner, faster, easier. Waiting up to several hours after spraying before sizing. Stuck a case every time. The only times I have ever stuck cases. I've given up on it.

[Jeff2131]

I used a chain lube spray. Penetrating oil. Ive used nothing else since ive been reloading and have yet to have any issues. And a can lasts me nearly a year! Estimated 15-20,000 cases. I line them up, spray them lightly and then off to the.tumbler once resized....the penetrating oil also helps put a nice shine once they hit the tumbler. Only down size...you cant use penetrating oil if you are cleaning with a ultrasonic cleaner.