Jennings Nine won't open all the way

**4V50 Gary** · January 28, 2016, 09:57 AM

It's not mine (I have better taste).

Anyway, I came across a Jennings Nine that the slide won't go back all the way. I thought about removing the grips, putting the frame in a padded vise (magazine loaded with dummies for support) and then placing a pine board against the slide and whacking it with a mallet. However, I learned that these things are cast zinc and don't trust that it won't break if I tried that.

Suggestions?

Ifishsum · January 28, 2016, 11:39 AM

How far back does it go? My brother had one with the opposite problem - slide went back a tiny bit too far when fired and jam up the firing pin. Eventually figured out it was missing a pad/guide for the recoil spring. I would not whack on it with a hammer, they are pretty cheaply made. Should be able to remove the slide and see what is stopping it, my guess is a broken or improperly installed part. Parts are cheap and available from Jiiminez Arms in Henderson NV

**4V50 Gary** · January 28, 2016, 01:19 PM

Lower portion of the slide (depression beneath the muzzle where the facets are) go flush with the front of the frame.

BTW, how far in should that take down button depress? Is it just slightly or does it go flush with the frame?

Dixie Gunsmithing · January 28, 2016, 02:55 PM

This sounds like it may be something to do with the recoil spring and the buffer/guide. I would take the slide off, and give it a look before doing anything as you mentioned. Zamak will crack if you bang on it.

**4V50 Gary** · January 28, 2016, 04:11 PM

DixieGunsmithing - Because the slide can't be pulled back fully, it can't be removed. I'm thinking the best course of action is to have it sent to the factory.

Sevens · January 28, 2016, 05:13 PM

Besides the obvious (and I don't need to insult anyone by stating the obvious) one theory I have immediately as to WHY the slide will not travel all the way back is due to the possibility that the barrel has been bulged by a stuck bullet followed by a proper load that pushed the stuck bullet out.

To attempt to see if this is the issue?
A tight, wet patch around a brass jag. If it's bulged, you will easily feel it.

If indeed that is the problem? I assume the barrel in this pistol is fixed to the frame... then it's likely a total loss or only addressed by the manufacturer.

Dixie Gunsmithing · January 28, 2016, 05:40 PM

Gary, I was hoping it would come back that far, but I wouldn't bang on it. You might be better to send it back, to be honest, as that will relieve you of the responsibility. That is one of the reasons why I dislike Zamak, but several of the cheaper guns use it.

You might also check it, as suggested, for a swollen barrel. Use your bent light, and take a gander down the bore. My first guess would be something fouling it around the recoil spring, maybe the guide, but the barrel is a possibility. Another would be to check and see if the sear is sticking up in the way, and somehow catching the slide, since that is a striker type firing system. There's not much else to keep it from going back.

Sevens · January 28, 2016, 06:35 PM

That brings up a good point--
In the recent past, I had a pistol that would lock itself open in the middle of a magazine, seemingly at random. It was not at random of course and it was not a misfeed and also not the slide stop finding it's way up to slide lock.

What it turned out to be was the disconnector having some tiny bit of a sharp edge where it needed to be smooth. The slide was catching the disconnector and instead of pushing pushed down in to the frame as designed, it was locking up the pistol.

The hardest part was replicating the failure on demand. Once I did that, fixing it was as easy as smoothing the part that didn't want to cooperate.

James K · January 28, 2016, 07:00 PM

One possible cause could be the firing pin installed backward.

IIRC the slide does not have to come back all the way for removal, you only need to push the takedown button in far enough to disengage it from the pin, then the slide pulls up. Alternatively, you can remove the grips and drive out the pin that the takedown latches into. But it has been a while, so I may be wrong.

Jim

Ifishsum · January 28, 2016, 09:21 PM

I gave it back to my brother so I don't have it here, but it seemed like I only had to pull the slide back an inch or so, to the cutout then depress the takedown button and lift the back of the slide off the frame then forward and off the barrel at the front. I could be remembering wrong though

**4V50 Gary** · January 28, 2016, 10:53 PM

Ifishsum - that is correct, but the slide doesn't go as far back as it should. I'm inclined to do as DixieGunsmith suggested and let the factory fix it. If they break the slide, they can replace the slide. I don't want to pay and that but they're in a better position to do it too.

January 28, 2016, 09:57 AM	#1
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	Jennings Nine won't open all the way *It's not mine* (I have better taste). Anyway, I came across a Jennings Nine that the slide won't go back all the way. I thought about removing the grips, putting the frame in a padded vise (magazine loaded with dummies for support) and then placing a pine board against the slide and whacking it with a mallet. However, I learned that these things are cast zinc and don't trust that it won't break if I tried that. Suggestions? __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

January 28, 2016, 01:19 PM	#3
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	Lower portion of the slide (depression beneath the muzzle where the facets are) go flush with the front of the frame. BTW, how far in should that take down button depress? Is it just slightly or does it go flush with the frame? __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

January 28, 2016, 04:11 PM	#5
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	DixieGunsmithing - Because the slide can't be pulled back fully, it can't be removed. I'm thinking the best course of action is to have it sent to the factory. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

January 28, 2016, 05:13 PM	#6
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	Besides the obvious (and I don't need to insult anyone by stating the obvious) one theory I have immediately as to WHY the slide will not travel all the way back is due to the possibility that the barrel has been bulged by a stuck bullet followed by a proper load that pushed the stuck bullet out. To attempt to see if this is the issue? A tight, wet patch around a brass jag. If it's bulged, you will easily feel it. If indeed that is the problem? I assume the barrel in this pistol is fixed to the frame... then it's likely a total loss or only addressed by the manufacturer. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

January 28, 2016, 06:35 PM	#8
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	That brings up a good point-- In the recent past, I had a pistol that would lock itself open in the middle of a magazine, seemingly at random. It was not at random of course and it was not a misfeed and also not the slide stop finding it's way up to slide lock. What it turned out to be was the disconnector having some tiny bit of a sharp edge where it needed to be smooth. The slide was catching the disconnector and instead of pushing pushed down in to the frame as designed, it was locking up the pistol. The hardest part was replicating the failure on demand. Once I did that, fixing it was as easy as smoothing the part that didn't want to cooperate. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

January 28, 2016, 11:39 AM	#2
Ifishsum Senior Member Join Date: September 15, 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,033	How far back does it go? My brother had one with the opposite problem - slide went back a tiny bit too far when fired and jam up the firing pin. Eventually figured out it was missing a pad/guide for the recoil spring. I would not whack on it with a hammer, they are pretty cheaply made. Should be able to remove the slide and see what is stopping it, my guess is a broken or improperly installed part. Parts are cheap and available from Jiiminez Arms in Henderson NV

January 28, 2016, 02:55 PM	#4
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	This sounds like it may be something to do with the recoil spring and the buffer/guide. I would take the slide off, and give it a look before doing anything as you mentioned. Zamak will crack if you bang on it.

January 28, 2016, 05:40 PM	#7
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	Gary, I was hoping it would come back that far, but I wouldn't bang on it. You might be better to send it back, to be honest, as that will relieve you of the responsibility. That is one of the reasons why I dislike Zamak, but several of the cheaper guns use it. You might also check it, as suggested, for a swollen barrel. Use your bent light, and take a gander down the bore. My first guess would be something fouling it around the recoil spring, maybe the guide, but the barrel is a possibility. Another would be to check and see if the sear is sticking up in the way, and somehow catching the slide, since that is a striker type firing system. There's not much else to keep it from going back.

January 28, 2016, 07:00 PM	#9
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	One possible cause could be the firing pin installed backward. IIRC the slide does not have to come back all the way for removal, you only need to push the takedown button in far enough to disengage it from the pin, then the slide pulls up. Alternatively, you can remove the grips and drive out the pin that the takedown latches into. But it has been a while, so I may be wrong. Jim

January 28, 2016, 09:21 PM	#10
Ifishsum Senior Member Join Date: September 15, 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,033	I gave it back to my brother so I don't have it here, but it seemed like I only had to pull the slide back an inch or so, to the cutout then depress the takedown button and lift the back of the slide off the frame then forward and off the barrel at the front. I could be remembering wrong though

January 28, 2016, 10:53 PM	#11
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	Ifishsum - that is correct, but the slide doesn't go as far back as it should. I'm inclined to do as DixieGunsmith suggested and let the factory fix it. If they break the slide, they can replace the slide. I don't want to pay and that but they're in a better position to do it too. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*