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Old July 16, 2012, 12:51 PM   #1
Oregon.gun.nut
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Winchester 100 stuck firing pin

I am trying to remove the firing pin from the bolt of my winchester 100 so that it can be returned to Winchester for the recall replacement firing pin. I have fremoved the bolt sleeve and bolt sleeve locking pin and all that remains is the bolt body, firing pin, and firing pin spring. The firing pin will compress all the way to the bolt body and freely retracts about 11/16" before stopping. I can compress the spring enough to see the other end and it is not hung up on any part of the bolt body.

My question is: Shouldn't the firing pin and spring slide out freely at this point and if not, is there some other step I need to take before I put it in a vise and apply enough force to back it out? Any ideas?
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Old July 16, 2012, 01:43 PM   #2
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You have one more slide pin to remove. Push the firing pin in just a little
and drift the pin out. ease off the pin and the spring will do the rest

If that has been done, Then yes, everything should come out.
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Old July 16, 2012, 03:01 PM   #3
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Referencing Numerich's Win 100 parts schematic, I have previously removed the following pins:
#5---bolt sleeve lock pin
#6---bolt sleeve pin
#33---operating slide pin
After removing those pins, I have the condition described above. Am I missing a fourth pin that I can't seem to see?
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Old July 16, 2012, 03:49 PM   #4
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The firing pen broken at this point. The bolt sleeve pin is retained by the firing pin. The firing pin comes out first.

Anyway, Yep that’s all of them that I know off.
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Old July 16, 2012, 03:52 PM   #5
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This may Help, Look way down at the bottom of page.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional...erl_88_100.htm

HTH
Tater
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Old July 16, 2012, 04:16 PM   #6
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Wisner's page is how I found out about about the recalled firing pin. Mine is the old round style instead of flat and I can see the full length of the firing pin and it does not look broken. It will push in and out against the spring and will go in far enough to strike the primer.....it just won't come out beyond a certain point. I'm not against breaking it on purpose since it is being replaced, but I'm trying to understand why it won't come out as it is supposed to.
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Old July 16, 2012, 04:29 PM   #7
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I didn't think it was possible to remove that pin first.
Any-who, Is it a hard stop or a soft stop when the firing pin goes fully rearward,
The reason I ask, Is, It could be a buildup of crud, maybe. Lots of WD-40
Users back in the day.
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Old July 16, 2012, 04:55 PM   #8
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It's a hard stop. I've soaked it with Break Free and other solvents. The spring appears to be intact with no broken coils. All of the three pins were very easy to push out and I don't see any obvious dimples, bumps, protrusions, etc. as I rotate the firing pin.
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Old July 16, 2012, 05:02 PM   #9
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I am at a loss my friend, Maybe someone will chime in soon.
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Old July 16, 2012, 06:11 PM   #10
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I've attached a couple of pictures to see if this brings anything to mind. Thanks for your help.

Last edited by Oregon.gun.nut; August 9, 2018 at 05:19 PM.
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Old July 17, 2012, 01:32 PM   #11
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Pushing the firing pin in just a small amount, And by working both sides of the spring at the same time, Are you able to gather the spring up to the rear?
See if by chance, a coil or two has jumped and by doing so, has locked its self in. Frig'en Chinese puzzle, I wish I had it in my hands.
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Old July 17, 2012, 06:19 PM   #12
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I can bunch the spring up to the rear and still wobble the fring pin but it won't retract past the rear shoulder of the hole where the operating slide pin passes through the bolt. I suspect the firing pin has been slightly enlarged where it hits the back side of the pin, but I can't feel it or detect it visually. I've tried filing the edge, but my files aren't doing much to the hardened firing pin steel. Pretty funny for a firng pin that is prone to breakage!

I'll play with it some more unless someone comes up with a miracle cure. I'm assuming that if I cut off the rear head of the firing pin, I can push it out to the front. I haven't seen a cross section drawing of the bolt, but I'm guessing it is counterbored on the rear to provide a place for the spring to bottom out. After it is out I can inspect the inside for any crud or other impairments. A normal man would have done this already but I like to figure out what makes things tick.
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