Need advice on Bauer Pistol Repair.

[Prof Young]

Gun Fixers:

I recently bought a Bauer Pistol and have enjoyed shooting it a good deal. None the less it has lots of issues. Lotta jams, magazine catch problems etc.
Please tell me what you can about these things.

1. Magazine catch does not stay in place. See the pictures below. The first is the magazine in the gun with the catch in place. The second is the magazine catch out of place, no longer "locked" in. The Third is the magazine catch turned all the way into the gun, which it does by itself with no help from me. The problem is that the lip on the catch which is supposed to "catch" a flange on the gun doesn't connect well with that flange. The catch itself looks to be okay, but may be an aftermarket replacement part, and hence the problems. I can find new and used catches on the internet, both metal and plastic, but they are very pricey and I'm leery of replacing the catch if I'm not sure of the part quality or that the catch is even the problem.

2. I've read that these guns suffer from "galling," but I don't know what galling is. Also that I should lubricate it with a special anti-galling lubricant. Can anyone help me here.

3. I've also read that if I use a Baby Browning magazine (The gun is a browning clone) that a lot of the jams may disappear. Does anyone know if this is true . . . for sure.

4. Finally, does anyone know a gunsmith that specializes in Bauer Pistols or has a lot of experience with them. I'd be tempted to send it to him/her and let them have at it.

Life is good.
Prof Young

[Bill DeShivs]

I think your magazine latch is improperly installed.
"Galling" is the tendency of certain stainless steels to stick to each other when moving. Any light grease should prevent it, as will most good oils.
Changing to an FN/Browning magazine may help reliability, but don't do this until after correcting the mag latch problem.

[Prof Young]

Bill: I'm hopeful that you are correct and that I've install the mag release incorrectly . . . but I can't figure out what's wrong. The most obvious would be that I put it on backwards, but every picture I can find shows the serrated part of the mag release goes toward the front of the gun. There is only one hole and one pin down there to hold the mag release in place. The magazine safety and spring go on the same pin and you can't put the grip back on if the safety bar is backwards. Can't figure out what is wrong. If you have any ideas I' am all ears.

Life is good.
Prof Young

[Bill DeShivs]

There is a catch on the back of the mag release that has to fit into a specific spot on the backstrap. That spot has a lip that keeps the release from going too far forward.

[Prof Young]

Okay. Thanks. Good to know. Are you a gun smith? Am tempted to send whole thing to you and let you have at it.
Life is good.
Prof Young

[4V50 Gary]

Galling occurs in stainless guns when same type of stainless is used in moving parts. The parts abrade or gall against each other. This was common in the stainless guns of the '70s and manufacturers learned to use two different types of stainless as a way around this issue.

I think the mag catch needs to be replaced. If need be, make your own. I would make it a bit longer and shorten it until it works perfectly (mind you, it's hard for me to say without actually examining why it isn't working).

[Bill DeShivs]

I don't have an FFL, so I can't work on other people's firearm frames.

[Prof Young]

Bill - Thanks.
Re-reading your comment about the catch I understand completely and that is exactly the problem. The flange on the mag release does not engage the lip on the backstrap well enough to stay in place. It slips off. Either this is an after market mag release that was made to long (tall) or one of the lips (on mag release or backstrap) is too worn. Not sure how I'll proceed. New/used mag release are available but expensive.

Life is good.
Prof Young

[4V50 Gary]

Bill - you can, if you don't do it for money. It's just that if he's in a different state he can't ship it to you. That's where the FFL is needed (and then you can do it for money).

ProfYoung - if the piece is relatively flat, xerox it. Then cut a pattern leaving it a little longer than the original. Drill the pivot pin hole in your workpiece and then glue the cut pattern onto it. That hole is your point of reference to the rest of the piece. Saw/file. Heat treat and viola! New part. We had to do that at TSJC.

[Bill DeShivs]

I had an FFL for 20+ years. Gave it up during the Clinton "purge."

Prof Young, if you care to send the catch only to me, I may be able to build up that lip.

[SGW Gunsmith]

All FFL holders need to log 'serial numbered' firearms into their "bound book" if they keep another persons firearm in their possession for more than one day for any work, or embellishment. If people do the repairs on someone else's firearm and they keep the gun over-night, trouble is just a phone call away if they operate without an FFL.
The firearm then needs to be dispositioned back to the owner when they pick that firearm up after the repair, or any work is done to that firearm, if you want to stay within the laws involved.
Not making this up, it is federal law, even for a serial numbered receiver whether you take money for the work or not.

[4V50 Gary]

OK SGWGunsmith, without checking further, I stand corrected. Better to err on the side of caution.

[Prof Young]

Bill:
Thanks. I take you up on the offer. I left you a message via your website. I understand there is go guarantee, but it doesn't work now so can't get worse.
Life is good.
Prof Young