I Need to talk about Crimping

shootsafe · July 28, 2008, 02:39 PM

So, I just tried my 1st practice reload to set up the dies.

Using Hornady New deminsion 3 die set.

1. Sizing, deprime... piece of cake.

2. Flaring,....a child could get it set right.
(I will prime at this point using a priming arm on a RCBS reloader special on the down stroke, but did not do it for this test)

3. Seating....A-OK, I bought a Frankford Arsenal digital caliper so I check OAL.

4. Crimping........this I am not sure about. I am sure I put to much roll crimp on, because, I had to really whack the H out of the hornady hammer bullet puller to get it to come apart.

How do you know what is to much or not enough crimp?

When I look at factory loads, Winchester and Magtech, I don't see to me what even looks like a roll crimp.

Anyone have a picture of a good, bad and ugly crimp?

Next, I need to figure out this powder meter unit and mess with the powder tickler.

I intent to do alot of practice before producing my 1st actual round.

Thanks,
Shootsafe

MADISON · July 28, 2008, 03:08 PM

What are you trying to crimp?
I do not have a tubular magazine so, I do not crimp my rifle reloads.
For the last 20 years, I have TAPER CRIMPED all my handgun loads. There are taper crimping dies sold by most manufacters. There is another way, though.
Buy an old set of dies, in the caliber you reload for. Remove the decapping stim. Then you adjust the die for crimping. [NO you do not have to trim the cases to taper crimp.] Adjust the die for crimping.

To roll crimp, [After trimming your caseS.] adjust the die so it just barely crimps and add more crimp until you get what you want.

shootsafe · July 28, 2008, 03:19 PM

Man, I started spewing information and forgot the most important detail.

I am setting up to reload my 44 mag.

Thanks,
Shootsafe

mikenbarb · July 28, 2008, 04:51 PM

A roll crimp is different from a factory crimp. You set the die so it just rolls the edge a little to hold the bullet in place. Lee sells a nice thing called a factory crimp die and their the best thing I have found for crimping my ammo for my lever action guns. I dont crimp the necks for my bolt actions. They should have info on crimping ammo in a reloading manual. Is the round for rifle or handgun?

welder05 · July 28, 2008, 09:54 PM

Guns and Ammo Magazine had a recent article with pictures on light medium
and heavy crimps. You might try an on line archive search. I believe they are at www. gunsandammo.com. I had the same questions when I started reloading for the 357 mag. I have read several good posts in this forum which state you should not be able to push the bullet further into the case by pushing down with the nose on the reloading bench using normal hand pressure. You might also look at some factory 44's and compare to yours.

armoredman · July 28, 2008, 10:49 PM

What caliber? Because roll crimp is bad for some calibers that headpace off the case mouth, like 9mm.

mikenbarb · July 28, 2008, 11:02 PM

^^ He is loading 44 mag.

kraigwy · July 28, 2008, 11:13 PM

A heavy Roll Crimp is needed on the 44 mag. If not, when you fire the pistol the other bullets could slide forward under recoil and lock up your cylinder. Also most 44s are loaded with a nearly full case of slower burning pistol powders. The heavy crimp helps hold the bullet allowing for proper ignition. This is mandantory for such powders as Win 296.

If you move to other pistol cases, like the 9 mm or 45 ACP, you'll need a taper crimp. These type rounds headspace on the case mouth. Unlike the 44, 45 LC 38/357 which headspace on the rim. The 357, 41 and other mag. like the 44 Mag need a heavy crimp.

If you move to rifle cases, most don't require a crimp as the neck tention hold the bullet. The exception is heavy rifles like the 45-70, 458 etc, which should be crimped.

If you move to rifle cases and do deside you need a crimp, get a LEE Factory crimp die, its cheap and very effective.

DEDON45 · July 29, 2008, 11:26 AM

You need a heavy roll crimp on .44 Mag rounds, especially if you're loading 'em on the warm / hot side. If you don't, you'll get unburnt powder, extra flash, and erratic velocities.

AlaskaMike · July 29, 2008, 12:32 PM

Depends on how he's loading .44 mag. I load much more midrange .44 mag loads than I do full house loads. My midrange load (10 grains of Alliant Power Pistol under a 250 grain Keith) don't require a heavy crimp.

Mike

July 28, 2008, 02:39 PM	#1
shootsafe Member Join Date: March 2, 2008 Location: Lincoln, NE Posts: 86	I Need to talk about Crimping So, I just tried my 1st practice reload to set up the dies. Using Hornady New deminsion 3 die set. 1. Sizing, deprime... piece of cake. 2. Flaring,....a child could get it set right. (I will prime at this point using a priming arm on a RCBS reloader special on the down stroke, but did not do it for this test) 3. Seating....A-OK, I bought a Frankford Arsenal digital caliper so I check OAL. 4. Crimping........this I am not sure about. I am sure I put to much roll crimp on, because, I had to really whack the H out of the hornady hammer bullet puller to get it to come apart. How do you know what is to much or not enough crimp? When I look at factory loads, Winchester and Magtech, I don't see to me what even looks like a roll crimp. Anyone have a picture of a good, bad and ugly crimp? Next, I need to figure out this powder meter unit and mess with the powder tickler. I intent to do alot of practice before producing my 1st actual round. Thanks, Shootsafe

July 28, 2008, 03:08 PM	#2
MADISON Senior Member Join Date: January 1, 2000 Location: Roanoke, Virginia Posts: 2,678	I Need to talk about Crimping What are you trying to crimp? I do not have a tubular magazine so, I do not crimp my rifle reloads. For the last 20 years, I have TAPER CRIMPED all my handgun loads. There are taper crimping dies sold by most manufacters. There is another way, though. Buy an old set of dies, in the caliber you reload for. Remove the decapping stim. Then you adjust the die for crimping. [NO you do not have to trim the cases to taper crimp.] Adjust the die for crimping. To roll crimp, [After trimming your caseS.] adjust the die so it just barely crimps and add more crimp until you get what you want.

July 28, 2008, 03:19 PM	#3
shootsafe Member Join Date: March 2, 2008 Location: Lincoln, NE Posts: 86	Sorry---its for my 44mag Man, I started spewing information and forgot the most important detail. I am setting up to reload my 44 mag. Thanks, Shootsafe

July 28, 2008, 04:51 PM	#4
mikenbarb Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2007 Location: N.J. Posts: 1,111	A roll crimp is different from a factory crimp. You set the die so it just rolls the edge a little to hold the bullet in place. Lee sells a nice thing called a factory crimp die and their the best thing I have found for crimping my ammo for my lever action guns. I dont crimp the necks for my bolt actions. They should have info on crimping ammo in a reloading manual. Is the round for rifle or handgun? __________________ Mike B. Gun control= Being able to hit your target. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pifinnercircle

July 28, 2008, 11:02 PM	#7
mikenbarb Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2007 Location: N.J. Posts: 1,111	^^ He is loading 44 mag. __________________ Mike B. Gun control= Being able to hit your target. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pifinnercircle

July 28, 2008, 09:54 PM	#5
welder05 Member Join Date: March 27, 2008 Location: Texas Posts: 29	Guns and Ammo Magazine had a recent article with pictures on light medium and heavy crimps. You might try an on line archive search. I believe they are at www. gunsandammo.com. I had the same questions when I started reloading for the 357 mag. I have read several good posts in this forum which state you should not be able to push the bullet further into the case by pushing down with the nose on the reloading bench using normal hand pressure. You might also look at some factory 44's and compare to yours.

July 28, 2008, 10:49 PM	#6
armoredman Senior Member Join Date: May 22, 2007 Location: Arizona Posts: 5,299	What caliber? Because roll crimp is bad for some calibers that headpace off the case mouth, like 9mm.

July 28, 2008, 11:13 PM	#8
kraigwy Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2008 Location: Wyoming Posts: 11,061	A heavy Roll Crimp is needed on the 44 mag. If not, when you fire the pistol the other bullets could slide forward under recoil and lock up your cylinder. Also most 44s are loaded with a nearly full case of slower burning pistol powders. The heavy crimp helps hold the bullet allowing for proper ignition. This is mandantory for such powders as Win 296. If you move to other pistol cases, like the 9 mm or 45 ACP, you'll need a taper crimp. These type rounds headspace on the case mouth. Unlike the 44, 45 LC 38/357 which headspace on the rim. The 357, 41 and other mag. like the 44 Mag need a heavy crimp. If you move to rifle cases, most don't require a crimp as the neck tention hold the bullet. The exception is heavy rifles like the 45-70, 458 etc, which should be crimped. If you move to rifle cases and do deside you need a crimp, get a LEE Factory crimp die, its cheap and very effective. __________________ Kraig Stuart CPT USAR Ret USAMU Sniper School Distinguished Rifle Badge 1071

July 29, 2008, 11:26 AM	#9
DEDON45 Senior Member Join Date: March 24, 2008 Posts: 278	You need a heavy roll crimp on .44 Mag rounds, especially if you're loading 'em on the warm / hot side. If you don't, you'll get unburnt powder, extra flash, and erratic velocities.

July 29, 2008, 12:32 PM	#10
AlaskaMike Senior Member Join Date: September 26, 2005 Posts: 941	Depends on how he's loading .44 mag. I load much more midrange .44 mag loads than I do full house loads. My midrange load (10 grains of Alliant Power Pistol under a 250 grain Keith) don't require a heavy crimp. Mike