Advice on Firing First Reloads

Waitone · March 22, 2001, 08:13 AM

Ok, I'm within a month of firing my first reloads (.45ACP). What advice would you grizzled reloaders give to a newbe?

I have two objectives: First, retain my right hand; and second, keep the slide out of my teeth. Other than that I'm interested in having fun and punching lots of small holes in defenseless paper plates.

Suggestions and advice are welcome!

dick w. holliday · March 22, 2001, 09:23 AM

tie gun to tree and pull trigger with string-i think my first reloads back in the mid 1960's with a Lee loader in 30 carbine. no powder scales just a dipper and H110 or 2400 or something. i survived and now have the upstairs of a two car garage full of goodies.

i was kidding about the tree and string because with some care i'm sure you will be turning out some good rounds and also some cheap rounds- you'll find you will be shooting more because you are probably saving more than half of the cost of new rounds....Goos shooting Dick

drothen · March 22, 2001, 10:34 AM

You will be OK. Just the fact that you are worried about the first ones will make it so. Just start at the lower range and work up.

I was a little too cautious when I started. In the first group I loaded, one was just a little too conservative and didn't make it out the barrel. It took some effort to remove the bullet, which was well driven in. A significant amount of unburned powder was left. I did some research then and realized that you have to have at least a mimimum amount of pressure to get the powder to burn completely.

proximo · March 22, 2001, 10:39 AM

Assuming you haven't started loading your rounds yet, I would suggest you just take your time and be very careful. Using a flashlight or a lamp, visually inspect the charge in each case before seating a bullet to make sure you haven't overloaded or underloaded (potentially just as dangerous) any of the cases. Then, as long as you aren't pushing the limits pressure-wise, you should be fine. I load with a progressive press and I go through this routine every time I change over to a new caliber. Its during the changeover, when you're fumbling with this and adjusting that that you can miss the double charge that will ruin your day. Sometimes I forget and don't realize it until later so I laboriously weigh every round I loaded and cull out those that weigh significantly less or more than the others. These get the bullet pulled and the charge verified/corrected. Its also not a bad idea to pick a powder that's bulky enough to nearly fill your case with a normal load. That way if you double charge, you'll have powder spilling out all over the place and it'll be obvious that a mistake has been made. That won't catch the undercharged (squib) loads so you can't neglect the visual inspection.

When I get to the range with a new load, I load only one round and fire it. I then inspect the case to make sure there are no excess pressure signs. If everything is ok, I'll load 5 rounds, shoot them, then inspect the cases again. This iteration is to make sure they reliably cycle the firearm (assuming a semi-auto). If anything doesn't feel or sound right, I'll stop right then and inspect the barrel to make sure it isn't obstructed (lodged bullet). If I have a chronograph handy, I'll use it to verify that the velocity is about what I expected. Then, if they're accurate enough, I'll go home and load a few hundred so I can give them a good evaluation.

Again, just slow down and be careful. Don't try to be a speed demon.

saands · March 22, 2001, 10:25 PM

Like they said above ... being conservative and careful means starting with the suggested starting load (not more or less) and checking your work. I usually make 5 or 6 of each charge and clearly label the primers with a sharpie. Then, when I am at the range I can evaluate the laods (as mentioned above) ... lightest first. If any of the primers start to look flattened by their experience, I don't move up to the next charge. I only do a few of each because I don't want to be temped not to throw away anything that is doubtful!

Be safe and have fun,
Saands

Write down all the different loads so you can duplicate the good ones later.

panamint · March 22, 2001, 10:34 PM

I can give you my exwifes number for you. Maybe she could fire off the first one.

Guy B. Meredith · March 23, 2001, 02:06 AM

If you stick to the minimum in the loading manuals you may find as I did that the first ones are almost disappointing wimps. Almost disappointing, but not entirely because you now have a valid reference from which to work and an intact gun and hand.

In my case the most dangerous part was how badly the gun was shaking in my hands as I anticipated an explosion and split cylinder. As I said they were wimps. Took another full grain to get them to spec in the .38 spl loads I was doing.

JNewhouse · March 23, 2001, 05:47 PM

I loaded some 9mm with blue dot at the suggested starting load and scared the crap out of myself at an indoor range.
I shot the first one and had never seen so much flame come out of my Glock before.
I checked the spent case, and it looked fine. I double checked my load data in my notebook and the manual. Then I shot the rest of those loud, blinding loads. I now load them at about 10% under the 10% under the max load. (not a typo)

oh yeah....my advice:
45's are huge gaping mothers of empty cases. If you are just plinking, try to pick a powder that fills more than half the case. That way, if you try to double charge it, it won't fit. The powder will just overflow all over the bench and your little heart will start to beat funny when you think about what could have happened.

muzzletalk · March 23, 2001, 09:18 PM

I went down to the local target range and rented one of their pistols. I figure if im going to break the pistol, it is better that it isn't mine.

saands · March 24, 2001, 01:18 AM

I'll have to second Jaynewhouse's "not all minimum loads are wimps" ... my training load for my .40 is a 90% load of PowerPistol under a 135 grain bullet. I figure that by training with a load that hot (455 ft-lbs at the muzzle), I can double tap my "wimpy" factory loads all day long! The same goes for my 95% 2400 loads in the .357 ... come to think of it, I don't load MAX loads in anything these days. You will probably find that your 90% or 95% loads are the most accurate, but that is where the fun is!
Saands

Art Eatman · March 24, 2001, 12:28 PM

A good, safe load for the .45ACP is 5.5 grains of 231 behind a 200-grain semi-wadcutter bullet. It's a bit below the IPSC "major" power factor. I commonly load 5.8 grains. IIRC, a double-charge will spill over.

Pleasant to shoot. Medium recoil for the usual range for the Gummint model, I guess I'd call it...

For sure, the key is paying attention. Avoid distractions until you've been at it for a good while, and develop the "feel" and instincts--more of the "muscle memory" sort of stuff. Develop some system that suits you, and stick to it.

And have fun!

Art

Waitone · March 26, 2001, 08:01 AM

I like the idea of using a "fluffy" powder so if I double charge it spills out. Other than 231, what are other "fluffy" powders I can use?

twin Sigs · April 19, 2001, 04:52 PM

I can understand where you're coming from. Plan to re-load my own but hesitating because I worry. I'm a complete beginner. Reloading should be the way to go when planning to shoot a lot. The only thing is that I can't find hollow point bullets...

shiroikuma · April 19, 2001, 07:32 PM

I just shoot off my first reloads this week. LOL. I held the gun (.44 magnum) p above my head off to the side. BOOM. Checked my hand. It was still there. Checked gun. No obvious holes except where they were supposed to be. Checked brass. Look normal. Shot the other 11. My hand hurt. I need a better rubber grip those "minimum" loads are snappy! It's my first .44 too.

The key I think is to load only about 10 rounds singly (I have a Dillon 550 progressive but loaded each one singly) Weigh every darn power charge. Make sure you are reading the scale correctly while weighing! Follow the reloading manual exactly for WEAK loads. Make sure the overall length of the cartridges is not too short, which can increase preasure.

Take way way too long to do those first ones.

shiro

RobW · April 20, 2001, 04:27 PM

Muzzletalk: this exactly is the reason why I and other gun-renters have to shoot the expensive, on the range sold ammo. It is even not allowed to shoot the ammo you bought one day before, it could be reloaded!

Do you think the range/gun-owners are stupid?

Master Blaster · April 21, 2001, 11:45 AM

Rob W range owners make a living selling ammo as well as range time. Use 4.0 grains of Bullseye powder behind a 200grain lead swc bullet. its a proven Bullseye load.
Titegroup 4.4 grains same bullet. Hodgdon will tell you that the minimum load is 4.8 for .45 LSWC 200grain.
4.4 will burn dirtier and leave more black soot, but is accurate and cycles with a 16.5lb spring.

Muzzle talk expect that if the range owner lets you shoot your ammo in their gun(and they wont) you will pay for the gun if it gets damaged due to your over pressure reloads.

My other advice is wear good eye protection. You may want to remove the magazine from the gun for the first shot. That way if it blows it will vent down the magazine well.

March 22, 2001, 08:13 AM	#1
Waitone Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2000 Posts: 2,904	Ok, I'm within a month of firing my first reloads (.45ACP). What advice would you grizzled reloaders give to a newbe? I have two objectives: First, retain my right hand; and second, keep the slide out of my teeth. Other than that I'm interested in having fun and punching lots of small holes in defenseless paper plates. Suggestions and advice are welcome! __________________ "Given a choice between good intentions and human nature, I'll go with human nature every time."--Me, 2002.

March 23, 2001, 05:47 PM	#8
JNewhouse Member Join Date: April 30, 2000 Location: Anaheim CA USA Posts: 41	I don't know about that whole minimum thing... I loaded some 9mm with blue dot at the suggested starting load and scared the crap out of myself at an indoor range. I shot the first one and had never seen so much flame come out of my Glock before. I checked the spent case, and it looked fine. I double checked my load data in my notebook and the manual. Then I shot the rest of those loud, blinding loads. I now load them at about 10% under the 10% under the max load. (not a typo) oh yeah....my advice: 45's are huge gaping mothers of empty cases. If you are just plinking, try to pick a powder that fills more than half the case. That way, if you try to double charge it, it won't fit. The powder will just overflow all over the bench and your little heart will start to beat funny when you think about what could have happened.

March 26, 2001, 08:01 AM	#12
Waitone Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2000 Posts: 2,904	I like the idea of using a "fluffy" powder so if I double charge it spills out. Other than 231, what are other "fluffy" powders I can use? __________________ "Given a choice between good intentions and human nature, I'll go with human nature every time."--Me, 2002.

March 22, 2001, 09:23 AM	#2
dick w. holliday Senior Member Join Date: January 13, 2001 Location: NC Posts: 589	tie gun to tree and pull trigger with string-i think my first reloads back in the mid 1960's with a Lee loader in 30 carbine. no powder scales just a dipper and H110 or 2400 or something. i survived and now have the upstairs of a two car garage full of goodies. i was kidding about the tree and string because with some care i'm sure you will be turning out some good rounds and also some cheap rounds- you'll find you will be shooting more because you are probably saving more than half of the cost of new rounds....Goos shooting Dick

March 22, 2001, 10:34 AM	#3
drothen Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2000 Posts: 104	You will be OK. Just the fact that you are worried about the first ones will make it so. Just start at the lower range and work up. I was a little too cautious when I started. In the first group I loaded, one was just a little too conservative and didn't make it out the barrel. It took some effort to remove the bullet, which was well driven in. A significant amount of unburned powder was left. I did some research then and realized that you have to have at least a mimimum amount of pressure to get the powder to burn completely.

March 22, 2001, 10:39 AM	#4
proximo Junior member Join Date: May 11, 2000 Posts: 191	Assuming you haven't started loading your rounds yet, I would suggest you just take your time and be very careful. Using a flashlight or a lamp, visually inspect the charge in each case before seating a bullet to make sure you haven't overloaded or underloaded (potentially just as dangerous) any of the cases. Then, as long as you aren't pushing the limits pressure-wise, you should be fine. I load with a progressive press and I go through this routine every time I change over to a new caliber. Its during the changeover, when you're fumbling with this and adjusting that that you can miss the double charge that will ruin your day. Sometimes I forget and don't realize it until later so I laboriously weigh every round I loaded and cull out those that weigh significantly less or more than the others. These get the bullet pulled and the charge verified/corrected. Its also not a bad idea to pick a powder that's bulky enough to nearly fill your case with a normal load. That way if you double charge, you'll have powder spilling out all over the place and it'll be obvious that a mistake has been made. That won't catch the undercharged (squib) loads so you can't neglect the visual inspection. When I get to the range with a new load, I load only one round and fire it. I then inspect the case to make sure there are no excess pressure signs. If everything is ok, I'll load 5 rounds, shoot them, then inspect the cases again. This iteration is to make sure they reliably cycle the firearm (assuming a semi-auto). If anything doesn't feel or sound right, I'll stop right then and inspect the barrel to make sure it isn't obstructed (lodged bullet). If I have a chronograph handy, I'll use it to verify that the velocity is about what I expected. Then, if they're accurate enough, I'll go home and load a few hundred so I can give them a good evaluation. Again, just slow down and be careful. Don't try to be a speed demon.

March 22, 2001, 10:25 PM	#5
saands Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 1999 Posts: 1,573	Like they said above ... being conservative and careful means starting with the suggested starting load (not more or less) and checking your work. I usually make 5 or 6 of each charge and clearly label the primers with a sharpie. Then, when I am at the range I can evaluate the laods (as mentioned above) ... lightest first. If any of the primers start to look flattened by their experience, I don't move up to the next charge. I only do a few of each because I don't want to be temped not to throw away anything that is doubtful! Be safe and have fun, Saands Write down all the different loads so you can duplicate the good ones later.

March 22, 2001, 10:34 PM	#6
panamint Member Join Date: February 6, 2000 Location: Inman SC Posts: 38	I can give you my exwifes number for you. Maybe she could fire off the first one.

March 23, 2001, 02:06 AM	#7
Guy B. Meredith Senior Member Join Date: August 29, 1999 Location: Salem, Oregon Posts: 1,581	If you stick to the minimum in the loading manuals you may find as I did that the first ones are almost disappointing wimps. Almost disappointing, but not entirely because you now have a valid reference from which to work and an intact gun and hand. In my case the most dangerous part was how badly the gun was shaking in my hands as I anticipated an explosion and split cylinder. As I said they were wimps. Took another full grain to get them to spec in the .38 spl loads I was doing.

March 23, 2001, 09:18 PM	#9
muzzletalk Member Join Date: January 3, 2001 Posts: 85	I went down to the local target range and rented one of their pistols. I figure if im going to break the pistol, it is better that it isn't mine.

March 24, 2001, 01:18 AM	#10
saands Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 1999 Posts: 1,573	I'll have to second Jaynewhouse's "not all minimum loads are wimps" ... my training load for my .40 is a 90% load of PowerPistol under a 135 grain bullet. I figure that by training with a load that hot (455 ft-lbs at the muzzle), I can double tap my "wimpy" factory loads all day long! The same goes for my 95% 2400 loads in the .357 ... come to think of it, I don't load MAX loads in anything these days. You will probably find that your 90% or 95% loads are the most accurate, but that is where the fun is! Saands

March 24, 2001, 12:28 PM	#11
Art Eatman Staff in Memoriam Join Date: November 13, 1998 Location: Terlingua, TX; Thomasville, GA Posts: 24,798	A good, safe load for the .45ACP is 5.5 grains of 231 behind a 200-grain semi-wadcutter bullet. It's a bit below the IPSC "major" power factor. I commonly load 5.8 grains. IIRC, a double-charge will spill over. Pleasant to shoot. Medium recoil for the usual range for the Gummint model, I guess I'd call it... For sure, the key is paying attention. Avoid distractions until you've been at it for a good while, and develop the "feel" and instincts--more of the "muscle memory" sort of stuff. Develop some system that suits you, and stick to it. And have fun! Art

April 19, 2001, 04:52 PM	#13
twin Sigs Junior member Join Date: April 10, 2001 Posts: 205	I can understand where you're coming from. Plan to re-load my own but hesitating because I worry. I'm a complete beginner. Reloading should be the way to go when planning to shoot a lot. The only thing is that I can't find hollow point bullets...

April 19, 2001, 07:32 PM	#14
shiroikuma Senior Member Join Date: June 27, 2000 Posts: 331	I just shoot off my first reloads this week. LOL. I held the gun (.44 magnum) p above my head off to the side. BOOM. Checked my hand. It was still there. Checked gun. No obvious holes except where they were supposed to be. Checked brass. Look normal. Shot the other 11. My hand hurt. I need a better rubber grip those "minimum" loads are snappy! It's my first .44 too. The key I think is to load only about 10 rounds singly (I have a Dillon 550 progressive but loaded each one singly) Weigh every darn power charge. Make sure you are reading the scale correctly while weighing! Follow the reloading manual exactly for WEAK loads. Make sure the overall length of the cartridges is not too short, which can increase preasure. Take way way too long to do those first ones. shiro

April 20, 2001, 04:27 PM	#15
RobW Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2000 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 256	Muzzletalk: this exactly is the reason why I and other gun-renters have to shoot the expensive, on the range sold ammo. It is even not allowed to shoot the ammo you bought one day before, it could be reloaded! Do you think the range/gun-owners are stupid?

April 21, 2001, 11:45 AM	#16
Master Blaster Senior Member Join Date: October 11, 1999 Location: One of the original 13 Colonies Posts: 2,281	Rob W range owners make a living selling ammo as well as range time. Use 4.0 grains of Bullseye powder behind a 200grain lead swc bullet. its a proven Bullseye load. Titegroup 4.4 grains same bullet. Hodgdon will tell you that the minimum load is 4.8 for .45 LSWC 200grain. 4.4 will burn dirtier and leave more black soot, but is accurate and cycles with a 16.5lb spring. Muzzle talk expect that if the range owner lets you shoot your ammo in their gun(and they wont) you will pay for the gun if it gets damaged due to your over pressure reloads. My other advice is wear good eye protection. You may want to remove the magazine from the gun for the first shot. That way if it blows it will vent down the magazine well.