I just screwed up my colt 1911 - Page 2

gunnut310 · July 12, 2011, 10:13 PM

I talked to Mr. Hill again. He told me. He said he can rework the breach of the barrel. 75.00 to 100.00 $. I don't know witch way to go.

jpsshack · July 13, 2011, 08:47 PM

Don't "try it out" if it's potentially unsafe. an over-ramped barrel could cost you your hand or your life.

SurplusShooter · July 13, 2011, 08:51 PM

Most gunsmiths should be able to rebuild the ramp or know someone that will.

orionengnr · July 13, 2011, 09:32 PM

Go back and re-read what Mr. Hunter said in post #10.
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthre...ht=ramp+insert
I had this process done to an alloy-framed 1911 that a previous owner had sanded or Dremel'ed to death. This is a precision machining job that restores the frame ramp to its original dimesnsions with a piece of stainless steel permanently fitted to the frame.

If the barrel has been mega-buggered, you may have to replace it as well.

dahermit · July 14, 2011, 07:19 AM

The "Dremel Philosophy", "My 1911 has always feed and functioned perfectly. But, I have just noticed that the feed-ramp is a little rough...hey! I can "fix" that, I have a Dremel!"
"If you just cannot leave well enough alone, the Dremel is the perfect tool for you." Dremel Company Slogan.

jpsshack · July 14, 2011, 07:24 AM

Check out Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on the 1911. Never says anything about touching the frame ramp.

dahermit · July 14, 2011, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Check out Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on the 1911. Never says anything about touching the frame ramp.

But, hey...I have a Dremel and I can see the roughness. I think that I will "smooth up" the barrel too while I am at it. Even though there is no feeding problem. What can go wrong...I have Jerry Kuhnhausen's book.

jpsshack · July 26, 2011, 10:22 PM

Yeah, you're right, dahermit–he mentions the frame ramp very briefly, one scant paragraph...basically says polish it, nothing else. I heard the same thing from another well-known smith. This thread interested me because I may throat a barrel to feed wadcutters, and I don't want to bugger it. You're also right in that no book is a substitute for common sense.

Powderman · July 27, 2011, 02:03 PM

Before you do any ramping or other alteration, know this...

1. The 1911 platform--specifically, the .45 ACP--has been provided for some time with barrels that have already been throated for reliable feeding.

2. There are two "bumps" on the frame, each side of the feed ramp. These are called bullet guides, and they are there by design. Do NOT reduce or alter these in ANY way.

3. To check your 1911 for feeding reliably, do the following steps first: a. Obtain good magazines that have the feed lips configured for wadcutter ammunition. b. More than likely, you will be reloading unless you have a ton of money to spend on match wadcutter ammunition. If you are reloading, the secret is to load the round to the same OAL as a round of ball ammunition. The pistol is manufactured and timed to work with that bullet length. c. Make sure your round is taper crimped properly. I use a taper crimp of .470, measured at the case mouth.

In closing, check that your ammunition is within the same specs as a round of ball ammunition before modifying your pistol.

RsqVet · August 4, 2011, 12:44 AM

Hey I once got a strut out of a toyota pickup only to discover that the tools to install the new ones were not at my disposal.

Drove said truck to the dealer with a 2x4 installed where a strut should be.

My hat is off to anyone who tries, way more than folks who act like fixing guns or anything is some magic process mere mortals can not consider.

Expensive lesson though....

Jolly Rogers · August 5, 2011, 07:09 PM

Heh, I wrench in a dealership.
We would have had a great time with that!

It would be like Cheers...where every body knows your name...
Joe

Powderman · August 5, 2011, 07:48 PM

I remember the first time I built my own 1911. Over the years--part of that time working as a gunsmith--I learned the following things:

1. Drop in parts don't.
2. Measure three or four times. Then measure again.
3. Stones cut faster than you think.
4. The same stones do not survive being dropped too well.
5. There is a Box O' Truth. It tests bullet performance. There is also a Box O' Gun. It tests your wallet and/or credit card's performance.
6. Dremel and Foredom tools are magic. You can go from "Here I go...." to "Oh crap, I've ruined the gun" in 10 seconds or less.
7. Books have been published and videos made on the subject for a reason.

And the important lesson is:

8. ALWAYS cut on or adjust the cheapest part FIRST.

July 14, 2011, 07:19 AM	#30
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	Dremel The "Dremel Philosophy", "My 1911 has always feed and functioned perfectly. But, I have just noticed that the feed-ramp is a little rough...hey! I can *"fix"* that, I have a Dremel!" "If you just cannot leave well enough alone, the Dremel is the perfect tool for you." Dremel Company Slogan.

July 26, 2011, 10:22 PM	#33
jpsshack Senior Member Join Date: October 18, 2008 Location: Northern New England Posts: 169	Yeah, you're right, dahermit–he mentions the frame ramp very briefly, one scant paragraph...basically says polish it, nothing else. I heard the same thing from another well-known smith. This thread interested me because I may throat a barrel to feed wadcutters, and I don't want to bugger it. You're also right in that no book is a substitute for common sense. Last edited by jpsshack; July 27, 2011 at 07:35 AM.

July 27, 2011, 02:03 PM	#34
Powderman Senior Member Join Date: September 7, 2001 Location: Washington State Posts: 2,166	Before you do any ramping or other alteration, know this... 1. The 1911 platform--specifically, the .45 ACP--has been provided for some time with barrels that have already been throated for reliable feeding. 2. There are two "bumps" on the frame, each side of the feed ramp. These are called bullet guides, and they are there by design. Do NOT reduce or alter these in ANY way. 3. To check your 1911 for feeding reliably, do the following steps first: a. Obtain good magazines that have the feed lips configured for wadcutter ammunition. b. More than likely, you will be reloading unless you have a ton of money to spend on match wadcutter ammunition. If you are reloading, the secret is to load the round to the same OAL as a round of ball ammunition. The pistol is manufactured and timed to work with that bullet length. c. Make sure your round is taper crimped properly. I use a taper crimp of .470, measured at the case mouth. In closing, check that your ammunition is within the same specs as a round of ball ammunition before modifying your pistol. __________________ Hiding in plain sight...

August 5, 2011, 07:48 PM	#37
Powderman Senior Member Join Date: September 7, 2001 Location: Washington State Posts: 2,166	I remember the first time I built my own 1911. Over the years--part of that time working as a gunsmith--I learned the following things: 1. Drop in parts don't. 2. Measure three or four times. Then measure again. 3. Stones cut faster than you think. 4. The same stones do not survive being dropped too well. 5. There is a Box O' Truth. It tests bullet performance. There is also a Box O' Gun. It tests your wallet and/or credit card's performance. 6. Dremel and Foredom tools are magic. You can go from "Here I go...." to "Oh crap, I've ruined the gun" in 10 seconds or less. 7. Books have been published and videos made on the subject for a reason. And the important lesson is: 8. ALWAYS cut on or adjust the cheapest part FIRST. __________________ Hiding in plain sight...

July 12, 2011, 10:13 PM	#26
gunnut310 Member Join Date: March 24, 2009 Location: southeast texas Posts: 61	I talked to Mr. Hill again. He told me. He said he can rework the breach of the barrel. 75.00 to 100.00 $. I don't know witch way to go.

July 13, 2011, 08:47 PM	#27
jpsshack Senior Member Join Date: October 18, 2008 Location: Northern New England Posts: 169	Don't "try it out" if it's potentially unsafe. an over-ramped barrel could cost you your hand or your life.

July 13, 2011, 08:51 PM	#28
SurplusShooter Senior Member Join Date: July 3, 2011 Location: Upstate,New york Posts: 308	Most gunsmiths should be able to rebuild the ramp or know someone that will.

July 13, 2011, 09:32 PM	#29
orionengnr Senior Member Join Date: July 9, 2004 Posts: 5,173	Go back and re-read what Mr. Hunter said in post #10. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthre...ht=ramp+insert I had this process done to an alloy-framed 1911 that a previous owner had sanded or Dremel'ed to death. This is a precision machining job that restores the frame ramp to its original dimesnsions with a piece of stainless steel permanently fitted to the frame. If the barrel has been mega-buggered, you may have to replace it as well.

July 14, 2011, 07:24 AM	#31
jpsshack Senior Member Join Date: October 18, 2008 Location: Northern New England Posts: 169	Check out Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on the 1911. Never says anything about touching the frame ramp.

August 4, 2011, 12:44 AM	#35
RsqVet Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 2005 Posts: 2,474	Hey I once got a strut out of a toyota pickup only to discover that the tools to install the new ones were not at my disposal. Drove said truck to the dealer with a 2x4 installed where a strut should be. My hat is off to anyone who tries, way more than folks who act like fixing guns or anything is some magic process mere mortals can not consider. Expensive lesson though....

August 5, 2011, 07:09 PM	#36
Jolly Rogers Member Join Date: April 2, 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 36	Heh, I wrench in a dealership. We would have had a great time with that! It would be like Cheers...where every body knows your name... Joe